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      11-14-2015, 05:29 PM   #23
Kgolf31
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Originally Posted by lowside67
Nice work!

Do you have to convert to the M style rear lower camber links or do these work with the OEM rear camber links?

Mark
If you do I believe that is illegal
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      11-15-2015, 12:19 AM   #24
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I realize now that there are clevises on the JRZs so they will adapt to the stock arms.

However, converting to the M lower camber arm should be legal as long as you have stock toe arms.

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      12-21-2015, 10:16 AM   #25
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I haven't updated much, but here's where I'm at.

The Forgestars have arrived (17x9, ET35F, ET50R).


Will be putting a set of pretty new 255 RE71Rs on them next week, and ensuring they fit properly. I've got some 2mm spacers coming from Ciro design.

I also picked up a pair of used 265 18 RE71Rs from a friend, and have an 18x9 ET50 Apex EC7 wheel coming in to test fit. I'm curious if I'll need more (ideally I won't roll the back). I plan on having some 18in Forgestars made, at least for the rear, so this is simply so I can specify an appropriate offset for fitment.

I installed the BMW Performance shift lever and E46 M3 transmission mounts. Significant improvement. Terry Baker installed my AKG rear subframe bushings, and that was a GIANT difference.

The car is up on jack stands now in my garage for winter, and I'll be installing the JRZs this week(end). I picked up some zip tie brackets that'll allow for rear canister mount on the subframe cross bar in the back. I'm debating buying some of the AKG upper shock mounts to reduce deflection, as the stock upper mounts are very compliant.

Active Autowerke is sending me their header, along with the Simon tuning tool + base tune. I've also ordered a 100 cell 3in cat from Ciro Design. I plan on having Burns Stainless build me a y-pipe for post-header, then the cat, then a 3in muffler after that about where the stock resonator is (just to pass solo sound), which will then be v-banded to a turndown for solo use, or the stock muffler for street driving. This should be quiet enough to comfortably daily drive if necessary, yet light for autocross.

Sam Strano is sending me some Ferodo DS2500 pads, my usual autocross go-to. The rear fitment is somewhat of a "guess", I'm hoping they fit. If not, I'll come up with another option.

The Diffsonline diff will be picked up in January, I plan on installing it along with AKG diff bushings.

At the same time, I'll be picking up a Sparco Fighter seat from a friend of mine, and installing that along with a Planted Technology seat bracket. I haven't really sorted out the remainder of weight reduction yet, but figure I'll do a battery and a passenger seat before Nationals, along with another set of 17x9 Forgestars.

UUC kinda hosed me on getting a front sway bar, so I doubt I'll have that for next season, so working with a backup Eibach until I can see what's what. I also have 1000lb and 1200lb rear springs laying around, and 850s going on to start. I'm opting to go with more spring, less bar than Kyle has in the back (stock rear bar, will try to setup with no rear bar over time).

That leaves the following on the table:
- Custom dyno tune.
- Intake solution.
- Pulleys?
- Any remaining bushings I see fit to do.

Anything else I'm missing?

As an aside to all the car prep, I'm building an arduino based timing solution where I can set up skidpad timing to test and maximize steady state grip, and will be adding a second sensor to it as well so I can do an actual test course / slalom testing as well. I also picked up the parts to convert my GoPro to use an external mic, hoping I can get that tested and sorted this week as well.
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      12-21-2015, 12:04 PM   #26
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Davies, there is no pulley solution for our car. Mainly because electric water pump.
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      12-21-2015, 12:21 PM   #27
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Cool. I hadn't bothered looking into it. Diminishing returns and all that. I guess add brakes to that list. The dyno tune option I'm aware of is still a WIP, but I think it's one I'll want after I go to the 3in piping.

I need to get up with my codriver and coordinate our national schedule for next year (he's primarily campaigning a NASA TTB E36 M3). As of now, didn't seem like anything HUGE was an overlap.

As of now, here's my list:
5/6-5/8 Wilmington Pro 1
5/13-5/15 DC ProSolo
6/10-6/12 Toledo ProSolo
6/25-6/26 DC Tour
7/16-7/17 PittRace Tour
7/23-7/24 Wilmington Tour
7/29-7/31 Wilmington Pro 2

I'll be at all of those regardless of what my codriver does. Might also be hitting Spring Nats now that there's the ProSolo rule change, where it is best 2 events out of however many you do, rather than best 2 of 4. Of course I'll also be at the Finale and Nationals.

STX should be pretty stout next year. Myself, Cathers, Jones, Nate Atkins (local guy, is usually very quick at local events but choked at Nationals in CS) if he builds his car locally. Wonder who of the FL contingent (Stewart, Ruggles, Marcus) will be traveling to some of the big stuff. I think Derrick Min and Chad Kettler will still be running the BRZ pretty close to me, and they're usually in the ballpark of Jones. Adam Benaway from NC, yourself, Wilcox, the Tsangs, and Lugod in the Focus should result in a pretty good class this year, and most of the "top" folks are pretty close. Spring Nats may just be a "land grab" for points. You know of anyone else joining in the fun?
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      12-21-2015, 12:43 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by RyanDavies View Post
Cool. I hadn't bothered looking into it. Diminishing returns and all that. I guess add brakes to that list. The dyno tune option I'm aware of is still a WIP, but I think it's one I'll want after I go to the 3in piping.

I need to get up with my codriver and coordinate our national schedule for next year (he's primarily campaigning a NASA TTB E36 M3). As of now, didn't seem like anything HUGE was an overlap.

As of now, here's my list:
5/6-5/8 Wilmington Pro 1
5/13-5/15 DC ProSolo
6/10-6/12 Toledo ProSolo
6/25-6/26 DC Tour
7/16-7/17 PittRace Tour
7/23-7/24 Wilmington Tour
7/29-7/31 Wilmington Pro 2

I'll be at all of those regardless of what my codriver does. Might also be hitting Spring Nats now that there's the ProSolo rule change, where it is best 2 events out of however many you do, rather than best 2 of 4. Of course I'll also be at the Finale and Nationals.

STX should be pretty stout next year. Myself, Cathers, Jones, Nate Atkins (local guy, is usually very quick at local events but choked at Nationals in CS) if he builds his car locally. Wonder who of the FL contingent (Stewart, Ruggles, Marcus) will be traveling to some of the big stuff. I think Derrick Min and Chad Kettler will still be running the BRZ pretty close to me, and they're usually in the ballpark of Jones. Adam Benaway from NC, yourself, Wilcox, the Tsangs, and Lugod in the Focus should result in a pretty good class this year, and most of the "top" folks are pretty close. Spring Nats may just be a "land grab" for points. You know of anyone else joining in the fun?
Not unless someone comes from the deep blue sea.

I talked with Heitkotter about a co-drive. If his schedule allows he might do an arrive and drive somewhere

I want that same tune, and we're going thru the same guy...

IMO - The east is the rough STX crowd. We get our ass kicked with tough competition while IMO West Coast can score Pro points fairly easily. Look at the ProFinale results and you'll see top contenders are from East
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      12-21-2015, 01:25 PM   #29
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It'd be cool to see Bryan in the car. I'm a combination of antsy for the season to start and panic-stricken about getting everything together. I've got a March 1 target date....

I'm used to tough crowds with STR. My focus this year will just be making sure I keep my mental game in check. If I can drive at big stuff the way I drive at locals, it should be a great year. I just can't fold like a house of cards in Ohio and Nebraska .
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      01-11-2016, 07:33 PM   #30
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Got the rear JRZs and AKG upper shock bushings on the 128. Going to pull them off tomorrow and remove the helper springs, I wanted to see max ride height with the helpers installed, and it's, well, in the sky. Which is good, as I have two pairs of springs that are an inch shorter I may be swapping on, and I'll be able to use the helpers with those and hit my target height. Also figured out my shock canister mounting in the rear, to find an identical space doesn't exist on the driver's side, so it'll be time to get creative. May end up leaving the bottle a little exposed to the elements, but that doesn't worry me too much. The passenger side is hidden, easily accessible, and no drilling!

Diff bushings showed up today too, picking the diff up along with a sparco fighter this weekend, ordered the Sparco base from Stranoparts yesterday.

Ordered 3 mufflers. One won't fit (it was a gamble), the other that another competitor is using is a 3in dyno max super turbo that actually goes down to 2.5 internally, so that's my backup plan. The current plan is the Active Autowerke header to a Y-Pipe that goes to 3in, a Ciro Design 3in cat, and a Borla ProXS true 3in muffler. It will likely be quite loud, so I plan on v-banding that to my stock muffler to drive around on the street. I can always add an additional muffler if just the ProXS doesn't pass sound. We certainly don't enforce sound locally, so hopefully I'll be able to get a reading before my first National event next year.

In the upcoming couple of weeks, I'll finish the front shocks, get the new seat in, get the car's initial ride height set and the car aligned, mount a set of 30-run RE71Rs on the new 17x9 Forgestars, and go to a local shop, RRT, to have the front fenders rolled, and TPMS coded out, along with coding out the warning for the driver's seat airbags. If my DS2500s (also from StranoParts) show up in January from Italy, I'll be tossing them along with some new rotors on too. The rear pad is kind of a guess on fitment, so I'm hoping I'm good there and won't have to pursue another option. Not really sure what I'll do if that's the case. Then just the diff and exhaust (and base tune) to go before the car is ready to compete. Targeting an end of February event to get things started.
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      01-14-2016, 07:54 PM   #31
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Okay, here's what's gone on in the past couple days:

1. Figured out I'll need to borrow a friend's nitrogen tank / regulator / fill gauge to get the front JRZs installed. So that bit is halted a tiny bit.

2. I'm 50/50 on whether or not the Sparco Fighter will actually fit in the car. I plan on finding this out next week. I put an eBay offer out on some replica Sparcos that should fit in the car (but are fugly and red, but will serve the purpose).

3. Got the RE71Rs mounted finally:


4. My DS2500s are shipping early next week. So those will likely go on soon too. I'm still unsure if the rear pads are going to fit right, but whatever. DS2500 fronts and I'll sort something out for the rear.

I really want to make it down to get my diff installed the first weekend in February. The shocks, seat, and coding and fender rolling should all be done before that. The rear toe change is insignificant, and the front toes in under bump, so I'll probably just be okay with chewing up my runflats while I drive the 150 miles to get the diff put in / diff bushings pressed. This will leave just alignment, exhaust, header and tune to get done over two weeks in February. The alignment, header, and tune I see as "must do", the exhaust can wait until the end of March or so if I have to, but I really want to get cranking on setup as soon as possible.

Some additional bonuses and tidbits: I acquired a pair of 1000lb and 1200lb rear springs. I do not want to run a larger than stock rear sway bar, and will likely end up removing this one (anyone know what the bar weighs?) at some point throughout the season. The 12mm bar only contributes 15lbs of wheel rate. Basically negligible with the 425-600lb wheel rates I'll have on the rear of the car from spring. Of note, my starting wheel rate in the rear will be a bit lower than Kyle's (45lbs?), but I will have a higher ride height all around. We'll see how the roll centers affect things. I'm starting out with 1/2in of fender gap up front, then raking the rear 1/4in based on jack pads (I've finally replaced the one missing when I bought my car).

Frustratingly, my local region, it's sister club, the local BMW club, and basically every region within a 3 hour drive does not have a schedule up yet, so it's making it a challenge to plan more of my season. I did add in some provisional dates from Philly SCCA and CCR SCCA. I also signed up for http://www.fm3roadtrip.com, a 5-day autocross road trip including stops in Charlotte, Kodak, TN, NCM, and Ridetech in Southern Indiana. I'll then be showing up late to the Wilmington ProSolo that Saturday. And I'll have done the prior Saturday ZMAX event in Charlotte. So over 8 days, I will be autocrossing 6 of them, and in transit 2. Crazy. Will likely burn an entire set of tires up in 8 days.
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      01-15-2016, 08:57 AM   #32
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Davies, that rear bar is probably 5lbs at most. It's hollow so there is not much to the bar at all.

IMO I'd disconnect it if you were going to run without it, removing it is a ROYAL pita. You have to drop the whole subframe
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      01-27-2016, 08:51 AM   #33
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Not a ton going on with all this snow. Figured out that my rear 7in springs aren't fully captured without a helper, so raising the perch and putting a helper on. I might convert to 6in springs now, so I can ensure maximum height adjustment, and making switching with my 1000 and 1200lb springs easier (so I won't need to mess with perches much when I swap them over, as they are 6ins).

Went and picked up my diff from Diffsonline last weekend as well, that'll go in on another trip to see Terry Baker in VA Beach in a couple weeks.

Related to the above, the Sparco Fighter I had picked up most definitely does not fit in the car. That problem was easily solved:


Two of these with Sparco floor mounts and sliders.

Thanks to the coding guide posted this week, I'll be completing all of that, as well as disabling TPMS and the seat airbags when I go to RRT to get my fenders rolled, hopefully next week.
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      02-04-2016, 09:33 PM   #34
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Hmm, I have some suggestions for your power woes:

Option 1: AFE headers, SS midsection (secondary delete) to Y and res/muffler

This allows you to keep the Catalyst in near stock location and remain legal for your class AND they still produce good power. I recommend the Borla XS Muffler

Option 2: AA headers, SS midsection (secondary delete) to a Y with a Catalytic converter/ muffler.

This may be harder, the gains with the headers are real, but the secondary catalytic converters will be trick to position (i believe they have to be 6" from the stock location)

Option 3: AA headers, highflow 100-200cell cats, Y pipe and muffler.

You'll still be legal, but this is a pretty costly option.


I would not recommend moving the stock Y pipe location, it will absolutely kill your torque if you move it too close.
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      02-05-2016, 08:23 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAxiom View Post
Hmm, I have some suggestions for your power woes:

Option 1: AFE headers, SS midsection (secondary delete) to Y and res/muffler

This allows you to keep the Catalyst in near stock location and remain legal for your class AND they still produce good power. I recommend the Borla XS Muffler

Option 2: AA headers, SS midsection (secondary delete) to a Y with a Catalytic converter/ muffler.

This may be harder, the gains with the headers are real, but the secondary catalytic converters will be trick to position (i believe they have to be 6" from the stock location)

Option 3: AA headers, highflow 100-200cell cats, Y pipe and muffler.

You'll still be legal, but this is a pretty costly option.


I would not recommend moving the stock Y pipe location, it will absolutely kill your torque if you move it too close.
I believe both of us are going an Option 3 Route.

Why do you think the bold part though? I'm curious on that.
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      02-05-2016, 08:33 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAxiom View Post
Hmm, I have some suggestions for your power woes:

Option 1: AFE headers, SS midsection (secondary delete) to Y and res/muffler

This allows you to keep the Catalyst in near stock location and remain legal for your class AND they still produce good power. I recommend the Borla XS Muffler

Option 2: AA headers, SS midsection (secondary delete) to a Y with a Catalytic converter/ muffler.

This may be harder, the gains with the headers are real, but the secondary catalytic converters will be trick to position (i believe they have to be 6" from the stock location)

Option 3: AA headers, highflow 100-200cell cats, Y pipe and muffler.

You'll still be legal, but this is a pretty costly option.


I would not recommend moving the stock Y pipe location, it will absolutely kill your torque if you move it too close.
I believe both of us are going an Option 3 Route.

Why do you think the bold part though? I'm curious on that.
Exhaust reversion, it will cause huge low end torque losses. Usually near the stock location is best.

How many Cells are the secondary Cats?
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      02-05-2016, 09:37 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDavies View Post
Not a ton going on with all this snow. Figured out that my rear 7in springs aren't fully captured without a helper, so raising the perch and putting a helper on. I might convert to 6in springs now, so I can ensure maximum height adjustment, and making switching with my 1000 and 1200lb springs easier (so I won't need to mess with perches much when I swap them over, as they are 6ins).

Went and picked up my diff from Diffsonline last weekend as well, that'll go in on another trip to see Terry Baker in VA Beach in a couple weeks.

Related to the above, the Sparco Fighter I had picked up most definitely does not fit in the car. That problem was easily solved:


Two of these with Sparco floor mounts and sliders.

Thanks to the coding guide posted this week, I'll be completing all of that, as well as disabling TPMS and the seat airbags when I go to RRT to get my fenders rolled, hopefully next week.
1000-1200lb springs? Now that's high
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      02-05-2016, 09:55 AM   #38
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Does anyone know of high-flow replacement cats for the secondaries? The only option I'm aware of is the Supersprint product, but at nearly $2K, they're hard to justify.

Also, any knowledge of what it would be like to DD a car with primary cats deleted and secondary cats either deleted or replaced with high-flow versions? Specifically wondering about smell.
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      02-05-2016, 10:40 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
Does anyone know of high-flow replacement cats for the secondaries? The only option I'm aware of is the Supersprint product, but at nearly $2K, they're hard to justify.

Also, any knowledge of what it would be like to DD a car with primary cats deleted and secondary cats either deleted or replaced with high-flow versions? Specifically wondering about smell.
Just FYI, The consensus from our catless header pioneer TheSt|G is that the secondaries are likely high-flow cats anyways, so removing them or "upgrading" them will provide minimal gains
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      02-05-2016, 11:10 AM   #40
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Just FYI, The consensus from our catless header pioneer TheSt|G is that the secondaries are likely high-flow cats anyways, so removing them or "upgrading" them will provide minimal gains
Yeah, it doesn't seem worth it, especially considering the cost. I could see maybe going with the SS section 1 pipes and just deleting the secondaries altogether. Would possibly need custom work for fitment to my MF cat-back.
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      02-05-2016, 11:41 AM   #41
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Just FYI, The consensus from our catless header pioneer TheSt|G is that the secondaries are likely high-flow cats anyways, so removing them or "upgrading" them will provide minimal gains
Probably, but N51 secondaries are not the same as N52 secondaries, so they may have a more dense cell count.

One could just place the Y pipe a little closer and put a single high flow behind it, and that would meet class requirements. No need for big names like Supersprint sourced HJC cats either.

On a N51, I think the secondaries deleted was worth 8whp or so.
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      02-05-2016, 11:47 AM   #42
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1000-1200lb springs? Now that's high
Hardly. With the wheel only getting 1/4 of the rate, this will actually be pretty soft (850s are like a 270lb wheel rate, which is well less than I ran on my STR S2000). The 850s I'm starting off with give me less rear roll rate than Kyle has. Keep in mind I'm running the stock 12mm rear bar, and will continue to run either that or no rear bar.

I think there is no reason to replace the dual cats with a pair of dual high-flow cats. However, I think the vast majority of the gains would be in going to a 3in exhaust, as much as swapping away from stock headers in the first place.

Second, the y-pipe is currently at the resonator. That's a shit place for it. I've spent enough time talking to the right folks about making power out of the N52 (as has Kyle, by proxy), and enough time around BMWs to recognize what's needed to be done.

AA Header -> Burns Y-Pipe -> Single 3in piping around the bend to the Ciro 3in cat, single 3in piping back to a Borla ProXS, then turndown (v-banded, so I can swap in the rear exhaust if needed).
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      02-05-2016, 02:54 PM   #43
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Hardly. With the wheel only getting 1/4 of the rate, this will actually be pretty soft (850s are like a 270lb wheel rate, which is well less than I ran on my STR S2000). The 850s I'm starting off with give me less rear roll rate than Kyle has. Keep in mind I'm running the stock 12mm rear bar, and will continue to run either that or no rear bar.

I think there is no reason to replace the dual cats with a pair of dual high-flow cats. However, I think the vast majority of the gains would be in going to a 3in exhaust, as much as swapping away from stock headers in the first place.

Second, the y-pipe is currently at the resonator. That's a shit place for it. I've spent enough time talking to the right folks about making power out of the N52 (as has Kyle, by proxy), and enough time around BMWs to recognize what's needed to be done.

AA Header -> Burns Y-Pipe -> Single 3in piping around the bend to the Ciro 3in cat, single 3in piping back to a Borla ProXS, then turndown (v-banded, so I can swap in the rear exhaust if needed).
I didn't say it was bad, just high. I'm all for the high springs lol.

The wheel rate for the front is 0.960, and the wheel rate for the rear is around .6, where is the 1/4 coming from? An 850 lb/inch spring translates to more than 250lb/inch at the wheel.

fwiw, the Mitchum Motorsports 128i which competed in Grand Am and other races, runs a singe pipe exhaust all the way back.
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      02-05-2016, 03:44 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDavies View Post
Hardly. With the wheel only getting 1/4 of the rate, this will actually be pretty soft (850s are like a 270lb wheel rate, which is well less than I ran on my STR S2000). The 850s I'm starting off with give me less rear roll rate than Kyle has. Keep in mind I'm running the stock 12mm rear bar, and will continue to run either that or no rear bar.

I think there is no reason to replace the dual cats with a pair of dual high-flow cats. However, I think the vast majority of the gains would be in going to a 3in exhaust, as much as swapping away from stock headers in the first place.

Second, the y-pipe is currently at the resonator. That's a shit place for it. I've spent enough time talking to the right folks about making power out of the N52 (as has Kyle, by proxy), and enough time around BMWs to recognize what's needed to be done.

AA Header -> Burns Y-Pipe -> Single 3in piping around the bend to the Ciro 3in cat, single 3in piping back to a Borla ProXS, then turndown (v-banded, so I can swap in the rear exhaust if needed).
Lol, I'll say this once and take my leave because I don't care to get into a pissing match.

You're wrong. I sold Kyle that Ypipe that I bought from Burns stainless, I orginally planned to do a full single from the header back to save weight and maximize power. The problem was is the Y pipe placed that close will lose power, and I'm not asking, I'm telling you.

I made a whole thread (and you're welcome to check it out) dedicate to figuring out how to gain extra power out of the exhaust, spent countless hours reading, asking questions and recounting my own experience helping design an exhaust for a friend. The conclusion is that the stock placement is best and moving it where you want will cause significant reduction in low end torque for the exact reason I gave to Kyle.
Appreciate 1
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