Cobb accessport on stock E82 135i

[TechieCarGuy]

OK, so I had told myself I wasn't going to do any mods as it related to performance until after I got a nice walnut blast, but I came across a V3 Accessport on ebay and couldn't resist. It arrived yesterday, but it was too late for me to install it/ do a flash last night.

I thought I would offer my thoughts before and after the install from a newbie perspective, but also wanted to get some feedback before I do it.

Last evening I plugged the unit up to my pc and check for updates, the unit I received has the latest firmware and appears to have all the correct maps installed. I am planning on doing the initial backup and stage 1 flash later today. As of right now my car is 100% stock, bar a drop-in aftermarket air filter I installed at the last service.

Honestly I hadn't planned to do the Cobb, I have felt that the power in this car is more than adequate for daily driving, although the lag in lower gears coming from normally aspirated cars is getting annoying. I also have plans to do some HPDE (track days) in a few months so will probably change my mind then if car remained stock.

This will be an interesting experiment to see how adequate the car really was, I am a little concerned about doing a flash before I get a walnut blast but we all know how hard it is to wait.

Does anyone have any advice, suggestions or stories leading into my install which might offer some insight as to what to expect or to watch out for? I had thought that I might want to do a mild tune down the road, you know maybe bump torque 20-30 lbs feet, but am excited to see what the Cobb's bump feels like and whether or not the throttle response improves.

[gap]

Several good videos on install, watch them first.
Attach a battery tender/charger when loading map. The first time takes longer since
you will download your stock map. Save a copy of your stock map to your computer
so you have another copy just in case.
The more aggressive the tune the more any parts that are almost worn out will start
to cause problems, i.e. plugs and coils.
Stage 1 drive is the most conservative so start there, I like the LT ( linear throttle ).

[jhipp]

You'll love it. The difference just a tune makes on these cars is pretty nutty!

I prefer the standard throttle maps, but recommend trying both to see. If you have access to 93 octane then I would also give the "aggressive" map a try to see how you like it. As gap touched on above, misfires are pretty common as a tune will bring out any weaknesses. Here's a good read for first time tuners if you have any issues: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631829

[wjk_glynn]

Originally Posted by gap

...Save a copy of your stock map to your computer so you have another copy just in case.

What are the steps to do that? It's not obvious how to do that in the user manual...

Thanks.

Karl.

[wjk_glynn]

Originally Posted by gap

...Stage 1 drive is the most conservative so start there

Good advice.

And while it's the most conservative, it's still a big jump in performance. Quite a lot more than PPK.

Karl.

[TechieCarGuy]

I just did the flash. All told it took about 20 minutes from the time I plugged it in, to my pulling out of the driveway to test drive. I live on a series of two lane roads and unfortunately was in slow moving traffic most of the time, but could feel a huge difference even at speeds between 30-60mph... I spun the tires going around corners and accelerating that I have never lost traction on before.

I chose the Stock throttle-Drive flash (stage 1) to start with and will live with it for a few days and see what I think. My initial thoughts are that there is a beast waiting to be let loose in these cars. I would guess (am sure I could look it up), but my butt dyno tells me I probably added about 25-30bhp and at least 40lbs/ft to the car. I imagine after a few days of the tranny relearning things I will notice even more.

Despite all the racket from the rear of the car during flash; sounded like the fuel pump was pumping dry? Anyway, despite that and the unnervey lights flashing in the dash, along with the tranny error on the nav screen that ultimately went away after the flash. I am pleased to report no surprises.

There is some harshness in the tranny I don't remember from before upon shifting, but the lag I talked of earlier is not there. I do think that once I go ahead and do my walnut blast, a FMIC and charge pipe are in my future.

My only regret is not doing a 0-60 run before and after. Maybe one day when I have time, I will flash back to stock and see a difference.

[admirable]

Great little write up Quart. I'm on the same boat, I've just purchased the V3 Cobb AccessPort and I'll be a first time tuner as well, (stock 135i 6MT). I've been weary and reluctant on the tunes but thought it's probably time to give it a crack! I'll let you know how I go, would be good to compare experiences.

[gap]

Originally Posted by wjk_glynn

What are the steps to do that? It's not obvious how to do that in the user manual...

Thanks.

Karl.

When you connect your AP3 to your computer simply copy the stock map
from the AP3 to your computer.

[TechieCarGuy]

I took the old girl out for a longer run this morning and I have to say; wow!! This is a totally different car now. While I am somewhat of a sissy on public highways and didn't push it to hard, I can't wait to get this think on a track very soon.

I did a couple of standing starts to about 65 or so, and had tremendous wheel spin in first and second. I've never had wheel spin in second before... The lag from a stand-still is still there a little, but the car pulls now more like a normally aspirated car versus the old car felt like s ingle turbo from the 1980's.

This car really shins now from about 40 mph, when you put you foot into it you are gone (period). In stock trim with the stage 1 on 93 octane gas, this car will get you into trouble. I did reach speeds previously not reached before I realized it and the car felt unsettled at those velocities, telling me that I do need to address the suspension and a few other things, but power-wise this thing is near perfect now.

After about 40 minutes I was heading home and was leading a line of cars going about 54 in a 45 mph. An old lady was coming up in the lane next to me doing about 60's and I though briefly about nailing it... something told me not to, b/c as we crested the next hill there sat "Johnny-Law". He ignored me and pulled out after the old lady doing what I suspect was 60 in a 45... someone was watching out for me.

Anyway... I feel this was a wise investment, although like any other performance mod it will cost you even more in the long run. I feel for reliability I do need to maybe upgrade the FMIC, do an oil catch can, mid-pipe and a turbo down pipe, along with possibly upgrading to dual oil coolers for when I track the car. But other than that this thing is well past 1M territory when it comes to power. I am now thinking for making a tribute car, a 2010 135is or maybe a 135 Tii for kicks... I usually don't like people that put badges on their car that didn't come on it, but in this case I can back it up.


I'm Guess using the stock figures of 300bhp/300lbs-ft, I am at or near 340bhp/355lbs-ft, possibly more now and I am being conservative.
Awesome!!

[all4bspinnin]

Make sure when switching maps or anything concerning flashing the ecu you turn off all electronics... radio, AC, headlights. Anything that can mess with the voltage on the car. After speaking with Cobb, BMW's can freak out if you play with things during the flashing process.

Its procedure to hear the fuel pump and gauges cycle. Nothing to worry about.

Congrats on your new found power!!

[TechieCarGuy]

OK, I know what you are saying is don't fiddle with anything while your flashing but this brings me to a question I've had since I got my car in November. How the heck do you actually cut the radio off? I can mute it, but it appears to always be on when the ignition is on... am I missing something or is there an off button someplace? I've held the volume button for several seconds, etc. but it only mutes the radio or CD, etc. Not actually cutting it off in the traditional since.

Am I allowed to high-jack my own thread?

[gap]

Push the volume button in.

[TechieCarGuy]

all that does is mute everything from what I can tell. It doesn't actually cut anything off, on my car with Nav you get a icon that shows system is muted on the top banner of icons (speaker with a line through it). If these cars don't do allow one to cut off the radio that is fine, but its been something that has bugged me

[TX135i]

This is very interesting to me. I have an early 2012, and Cobb says my VIN is supportable. I've considered buying one of these but it's hard to cut loose of the $900. Seems simple and easily reversible from what I understand. What else is considered pretty much mandatory if you get this (assuming everything else is stock)? A charge pipe?

[scythe1969]

Cobb recommends the charge pipe and exhaust. I just went this route and opted to save as much money as I could. I found a forum member selling the v2 and it worked like a champ. Definitely worth the $380 price I paid for it.

I have a 6MT 2012 (Production date 5/11) that made the cut. If you can, my recommendation is find someone local to you so you can 'try it out' first. You'll know within minutes if your car has the right ECU version and supported by the AP.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by TX135i

This is very interesting to me. I have an early 2012, and Cobb says my VIN is supportable. I've considered buying one of these but it's hard to cut loose of the $900. Seems simple and easily reversible from what I understand. What else is considered pretty much mandatory if you get this (assuming everything else is stock)? A charge pipe?

Vendors on here offer it for a little less.

[TechieCarGuy]

obviously there are pros and cons for both buying retail and picking up used, but I found mine a v3 on eBay for around $500 and am only running an aftermarket air filter element in stock box and see huge difference. down pipe is considered level 2 upgrade along with intercooler.

[Gregoriovv]

The messing with things while its programming is no joke. When I first flashed mine, I was getting in and out of the car causing the interior light to go on and off. It was all messed up and ran like shit. I thought I really screwed it up and flashed it back to stock and boxed it up to send it back. Then I read not to do that it it worked great the second time. I too went with the first conservative stage and you're right, what a difference! I kept it like that for a few months and then went kinda nutty with the mods and am now at stage 2 aggressive and just wow, what a car! Dynoed at 376 hp and 465 tq.

Oh very important, if you're still on the stock run flats get rid of them cuz it's impossible to realize the full potential of just stage 1. It's like driving on ice. It's a night and day difference, no joke.

[dg108]

So funny, it really is like driving on ice! I burned my run flats off before the snow fell and can't wait for some properly sticky rubber this spring. My run flats are SO Bald from my 19.5 lb boost PTF tune!

[geeyore]

Originally Posted by scythe1969

Cobb recommends the charge pipe and exhaust. I just went this route and opted to save as much money as I could. I found a forum member selling the v2 and it worked like a champ. Definitely worth the $380 price I paid for it.

A charge pipe is a very good thing to get, at least as backup. Because the OE charge pipe is BMW plastic and increased boost will blow it. Mine went on the track, ironically only a few days after I'd considered (but didn't actually buy) a metal charge pipe. And this was on the third day of an excellent Motiv Protune. It was predictable. I kinda knew it was gonna happen.

There are several vendors of replacement charge pipes - I went with Active Autowerke but there are others - and they are all pretty similar. In retrospect I think Evolution Racewerks more closely replicates the BMW OE CP, especially the bracket that mounts to the engine block (??).

You should also - if at all possible - try to get a spare C clamp for the throttle body fitting, because the clamp "might" fall onto the street/track if/when the plastic BMW OE CP blows. There's also an associated rubber O-ring that would be useful to have for the same reason. I think - but am not certain - that Turner sells them. From everything I heard and read during my emergency CP replacement, BMW wants you to buy their entire CP kit (plastic CP, C clamp + O ring) for $300 (??), even if you only want the C clamp + O ring.

Fortunately, mine didn't fall off on the track, and I used the original BMW OE parts for the replacement with the AA CP.

But if you're doing the recommended CP replacement in advance, you won't have to worry about losing anything on the street/track. A replacement metal CP is highly unlikely to ever blow.

[geeyore]

Originally Posted by dg108

So funny, it really is like driving on ice! I burned my run flats off before the snow fell and can't wait for some properly sticky rubber this spring. My run flats are SO Bald from my 19.5 lb boost PTF tune!

What was BMW thinking, putting run flats on a 135i?!? In any case, with regular rubber, I bought a Continental sealant/air pump kit and - for longer trips and track - a doughnut spare and tire jack kit from Bavarian Auto.

That's after having to borrow a doughnut spare from another guy at the track after ripping the sidewall off of a front tire.