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03-29-2020, 01:47 PM | #1 |
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Thinking of adding silicone inlets... Anything to watch out for?
I seem to only hear good things about silicone inlets..
I am full bolt on minus the inlets with MHD stage 2+. Unfortunately I’ve got rod knock and will need to replace the motor or short block at least. I figured this may be a good time to upgrade to silicone inlets... but I was wondering if There are any potential downsides. |
03-29-2020, 03:25 PM | #2 |
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I have the VRSF stock location inlet's and if I had to do them over again, I would go with the relocation version. I have the 2 in version and there is very little room for the front piping, I had to cable tie it to the fan shroud to prevent it from rubbing on the pulleys. Additionally the rear is a pain to fit also.
I think that they were probably designed and test fitted on a 335i, there's just no room on the 135i. But overall with DAW stage 2+ turbo's I'm happy with the results. In my opinion if you are going to the hassle of installing these, you might as well save up and upgrade your turbo's. |
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04-01-2020, 10:02 AM | #3 |
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Maybe vrsf will take a trade in:
https://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-silico...135i-335i.html Note: If you look at the dyno chart for relocated vs OEM, they are the same? huh wtf?
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Metallic Black on Black 2009 135i, new waterpump, OFHGs, and VC gasket...RB turbo PCV valve (ooo), NGK performance plugs...V3Cobb access port stage 2+FMIC, Injen intake, Mishimoto clone FMIC, ARM charge pipe, ARM downpipes, Whiteline subframe bushings
Last edited by Mr Gasser; 04-01-2020 at 10:10 AM.. |
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04-01-2020, 11:47 AM | #5 |
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Any idea what lead to rod knock?
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2011 Space Grey 135i DCT:
Pure Stage 2, Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP, ST XTA Coilovers, Berk Street Axle Back, MHD Stage 2+, VRSF Catless DP, VRSF 5" FMIC, VRSF LCP, BMS UCP, M3 FSB, e92 M3 Drivers Seat. |
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04-01-2020, 05:17 PM | #6 |
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Get the PR relocated inlets. You'll need a custom tune after inlets, or a JB4. Note that inlets have a snout size, which is determined by the turbos you have.
Side note, if you're ripping it apart, you should really consider switching the turbos out while the engine is out. This is a big topic and there are a couple good options out there, with a lot of bad options. Options> ST vs Twins ST: DocRace, Speedtech, Motiv Twins: Go with Pure, RB, Hydra ... thats it, long list, right? If you buy something not on that list, you're more likely to have a problem of some sort and end up with a bad outcome one way or another.
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Last edited by ShocknAwe; 04-01-2020 at 05:23 PM.. |
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04-02-2020, 09:33 AM | #7 |
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04-05-2020, 01:23 PM | #11 |
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Drives: 2008 135i E88
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I did mine while I was doing turbos. But its alot of tight work for not much of a gain with stock turbos.
But I think the front one is doable from the top as long as you remove the fan. And the rear is a pain, you can get there without but it's easier to remove the one side of the steering rack. Then drop dp's. The rear top bracket is the toughest part. I ended up cutting it off with a long blade sawzall and then cutting at the bend from underneath to pull old inlet out. Seen other diy's of them using vise grips with a torx bit in it to take the screws out of the rear bracket. Good idea as well as spay lube on the outside and some rope around the new inlet to pull it in place from underneath. The front is tough to situate without rubbing on the pulleys. Especially in mine with a bigger radiator making it even tighter. I actually popped a hole in my radiator when doing this and had to buy a csf. But after alot of fiddling it around I finally cleared the pulleys. While your doing this you should upgrade your pcv and add an occ. Since you'll be taking off alot of that stuff for access. Good luck, I'm sure inlets would be easier than outlets without dropping the subframe. But I could be wrong. 2" will be even harder to fit. I went with 1.75" because that's what Rob @ RB told me to get. |
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04-05-2020, 08:49 PM | #12 |
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04-07-2020, 12:47 PM | #13 |
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do you do your own work in Chi? or is there a good shop you use? I'm still looking for a quality trust worthy shop for the larger projects.
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2011 135i VRSF DP, FMIC, Charge pipe, DP fix, cdv delete, Whiteline RSFB, BMS SSK, Intake, Oil Catch Can, JB4, MHD BEF, full Berk street exhaust
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04-08-2020, 06:01 PM | #14 | |
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not sure on cause of rod knock, i bought it used and it crept up within weeks of purchasing. It was likely too quiet to notice when i test drove the car. I'd bet a previous owner did not do their oil changes often enough or was low on oil at some point.
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I do minor stuff, so I'll be going to an indy shop to get the new motor and what not installed. Ive been to Bimmer Werkshop and they seem to do a good job, may have them install the new engine.. when i find one. Last edited by Dekdo; 04-10-2020 at 07:04 PM.. |
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