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      05-13-2017, 04:49 AM   #23
supercati
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Here are some photos of how mine was build, just in case it could help. Sorry for the quality, but I discovered this post before installing them.

Ballast are inside the housing (below the low-casewhere the original ballast sits).
Then, on the outside there are the canbus cancellers, and on my case the resistor for the high beam. You could skip this with some canbus ballast, and high beam bulb (as the OP here did, and I am planning to do) so there would be instead nothing on outside.





Re-pined to match Halogen pinout.
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      01-28-2018, 10:18 PM   #24
esuyengh
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Thanks for this guide. I have a few quick questions in preparation of my doing this later this summer:

1) Will this work on adaptive headlights (AHL)? Or will it only work on non-adaptive?

2) Similarly, since there is no coding, does it matter if I get a Euro-spec bi-xenon headlight set that technically is intended for "right-hand" driving?

3) Can you point me to a good quality can-bus canceller?
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      01-30-2018, 04:59 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esuyengh View Post
Thanks for this guide. I have a few quick questions in preparation of my doing this later this summer:

1) Will this work on adaptive headlights (AHL)? Or will it only work on non-adaptive?

2) Similarly, since there is no coding, does it matter if I get a Euro-spec bi-xenon headlight set that technically is intended for "right-hand" driving?

3) Can you point me to a good quality can-bus canceller?
OP and me did that on AHL headlights, but obviously the adaptative function won't work anymore. It will work like normal xenons.

If you het RHD headlight, light beam pattern will be slighty different... I wouldn't recommend RHD headlights for LHD countries

Canbus Canceller / Ballasts:
https://aliexpress.com/store/product...821683871.html

https://aliexpress.com/store/product...767432881.html

https://aliexpress.com/store/product...807451759.html
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      01-30-2018, 11:48 AM   #26
esuyengh
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Thanks! Didn't think about beam pattern, and was just focused on the re-coding issue. I'll have to find a LHD set then.

Are you running the rear blacklines? Know of any compatibility issues with the ones that are supposedly plug and play regardless of whether you run halogens or xenon up front?
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      02-24-2019, 03:51 PM   #27
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Provided final edit on post #2.
Take your high beam bulb from halogen lights and swap with the cornering light inside the xenon equipped lights.
Cornering light isn't able to handle the high beam voltage and will melt the plastic surround used to lock it in place. Thus making it hard to remove without a dremel.

The only reason I can come up with is the cornering lights usually only stay on for a few seconds. High beams can stay on until another car is coming down the road, and that corner light housing traps the heat and melts the plastic.

Sucks, but better to know and warn you all than to have everyone find out on their own.

I didn't try using a canbus LED, someone can experiment with that and if that works then I would run that all the way!!
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      03-06-2019, 09:21 AM   #28
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Finished up my LCI Xenon conversion recently, using this guide. Coded the brow/halos as the DRL and using LUX v5 in the halos that match the brow perfectly. Much whiter in person...
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      03-06-2019, 11:51 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harlowe View Post

Finished up my LCI Xenon conversion recently, using this guide. Coded the brow/halos as the DRL and using LUX v5 in the halos that match the brow perfectly. Much whiter in person...
Looking real sharp! Glad my guide was useful to you
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