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      10-27-2015, 02:41 AM   #23
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Those 2 components should fix your problem.

When this happened to me, I just used it as an excuse to by the euro headlight assemblies lol. Too bad you already bought those parts, could have sold you mine off of my good headlight for a lot cheaper. Good luck.
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      10-27-2015, 09:02 AM   #24
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hungrybreadbutterhustle > The ballast and module should solve your issue.
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      10-27-2015, 11:32 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchismX View Post
Those 2 components should fix your problem.

When this happened to me, I just used it as an excuse to by the euro headlight assemblies lol. Too bad you already bought those parts, could have sold you mine off of my good headlight for a lot cheaper. Good luck.
ha. poor timing for sure. I've been checking out both the LCI as well as the euro headlights. Looks like LCI's should run around 1k and the euro's a bit more?
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      10-27-2015, 01:12 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hungrybreadbutterhustle View Post
ha. poor timing for sure. I've been checking out both the LCI as well as the euro headlights. Looks like LCI's should run around 1k and the euro's a bit more?
Got mine on ebay with everything included (bulbs,ballasts,etc) for 1K euro
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      10-28-2015, 07:45 AM   #27
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It also depends on if you want the pre-LCI or LCI versions of the Euro headlamps, or if you get the AHL or non-AHL versions. The non-AHL versions are obviously cheaper (I'd bet that's what the previous poster got on eBay, unless he bought used). All US-market xenons for all years were AHL.
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      10-28-2015, 01:08 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
It also depends on if you want the pre-LCI or LCI versions of the Euro headlamps, or if you get the AHL or non-AHL versions. The non-AHL versions are obviously cheaper (I'd bet that's what the previous poster got on eBay, unless he bought used). All US-market xenons for all years were AHL.
Mine are pre-LCI AHL version, and yes they were used.
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      10-28-2015, 07:01 PM   #29
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Update for future searches and those who give a ****:

I pulled the light and the amount of water that came pouring out of the Control Box and Ballast was.... hilarious? As you guys all predicted, everything below the light was gummed up with water.

Here's shot of of the ballast:





Here's the main board from the Control Box. I ordered a new Adaptive Light Control Box from ECS. Two questions:

1. Does it come with all new boards, because as you can see in the pic below, the circuitry is all rusty and likely shot? [EDIT: I looked a bit more closely at the photos of the new board and it looks like it does indeed contain the new boards]

2. I've been reading it needs to be coded to the car. Will the lights at least work and I'll still get the Adaptive headlights! error? Or, will the lights not even light until I get the new Box coded?




Last edited by hungrybreadbutterhustle; 10-28-2015 at 07:07 PM..
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      10-28-2015, 07:18 PM   #30
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I don't think they need to be coded to the car. At least, when I swapped my new Euro headlamps, I had to re-use the stock ballasts, but not the AHL modules, as they came already fitted (I didn't even realize they were a separate part). Anyway, my new lamps work fine with no errors and no coding performed.
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      10-28-2015, 07:29 PM   #31
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I don't think they need to be coded to the car. At least, when I swapped my new Euro headlamps, I had to re-use the stock ballasts, but not the AHL modules, as they came already fitted (I didn't even realize they were a separate part). Anyway, my new lamps work fine with no errors and no coding performed.
I've been reading used Control Boxes don't need to be coded, but apparently new ones do (or at lease maniac33 thinks so )?
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      10-28-2015, 07:40 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hungrybreadbutterhustle View Post
I've been reading used Control Boxes don't need to be coded, but apparently new ones do (or at lease maniac33 thinks so )?
Okay, the control box is what the ballast plugs into, right? On the underside of the headlamp? Because I bought brand new Euro headlamps that came pre-fitted with the control boxes and a few of the bulbs, swapped my old ballasts and xenon bulbs over, and it just worked. No coding and no errors.
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      10-28-2015, 08:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
Okay, the control box is what the ballast plugs into, right? On the underside of the headlamp? Because I bought brand new Euro headlamps that came pre-fitted with the control boxes and a few of the bulbs, swapped my old ballasts and xenon bulbs over, and it just worked. No coding and no errors.
Yes, the Control Box is the attached to the bottom of the headlight and holds the control circuit boards and the ballast plugs into it.

I have no first-person experience with the re-coding requirement, just what I've been reading here on the forums. I hope I have your same experience!
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      10-29-2015, 03:44 AM   #34
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Although the headlight assemblies I bought were used, nothing needed to be coded and also had no errors.
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      10-29-2015, 08:56 AM   #35
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I have condensation in one of my adaptive xenons on my 2009 but I didn't want to start a whole thread to ask one simple question, so I will ask it here.

My passenger side light has the smallest amount of condensation in the corner of the lens on rainy days. I checked the back cover yesterday and it appears to be installed and sealed properly. All my lights and adaptive functions work fine.

So what do I do to dry this out and make it waterproof again to avoid a future failure?

Is there anywhere to buy new seals or should i just soak them in some silicone or oil or something for a while? I've heard of people boiling rubber seals in water to re-expand and re-hydrate them but I've never tried it.

Anything else I should do to make sure my lights don't fry?

Also I cant get the passenger side headlight cover off the back because the oil cooler lines are in the way and prevent me from doing so. Is this normal? I plan to remove the bumper and remove the lights alltogether to inspect them for leakage.
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      10-29-2015, 09:35 AM   #36
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Where is your condensation? In the corner, like where the turn signal is? If so, that's a different area than the other bulbs, not accessed by removing the back panel. You have to go through the wheel well to access the turn signal bulbs.

I recently changed the turn signals, and I got some condensation in the corners after extended driving on an especially rainy day. It cleared up fine in a couple of hours, but I've been meaning to recheck that the turn signal bulbs have been refitted with a good seal. Have you or anyone else ever messed with the turn signal bulbs?
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      10-29-2015, 10:01 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
Where is your condensation? In the corner, like where the turn signal is? If so, that's a different area than the other bulbs, not accessed by removing the back panel. You have to go through the wheel well to access the turn signal bulbs.

I recently changed the turn signals, and I got some condensation in the corners after extended driving on an especially rainy day. It cleared up fine in a couple of hours, but I've been meaning to recheck that the turn signal bulbs have been refitted with a good seal. Have you or anyone else ever messed with the turn signal bulbs?
My condensation appears at the "tear duct" of the headlight. The inner lower corner.
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      10-29-2015, 05:00 PM   #38
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I got the Control Module installed and the errors are gone and the light works! Unfortunately, in the process, I manage to get two good sized water stains on the inside of the lens. ಠ_ಠ

The only remain issue is that the AHL seems dyslexic. When the wheel is turned to the right, the headlight is going the opposite way to the left. Is this where the re-coding comes into play or is there a calibrate the light myself?
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      10-29-2015, 05:02 PM   #39
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My condensation appears at the "tear duct" of the headlight. The inner lower corner.
I would suggest opening the back cover and pointing a fan at the back of the headlight to get some air circulating in there. Also, if you have a shop light (or any other light that generates a little heat), I would point that at the spot. Leave that setup for a couple hours. This is what I did to dry out my headlight.

In regards to the radiator hoses being "in the way". They are slightly in the way, but you should be able to pull them away enough to wiggle the back cover out.
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      10-29-2015, 06:39 PM   #40
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Okay so I took out my passenger headlight today and discovered a few things and did a few other things.

One, my rear cover gasket was pinched/shrunk in a few places and I'm assuming this is how small amounts of water are getting in.





So I pulled out the gasket and massaged some silicone spray into it to try to give it some new life, then used a dab of gasket maker on the shrunk/pinched part.



I wish I would have thought to put a fan and heat on the headlight to try to evacuate any moisture, but alas I did not do that. The headlight did sit open on the ground for about 20 minutes though so maybe a bit was able to evaporate.

I am going to order new headlight covers ASAP and put brand new ones on both sides.

Anyone know the part number for the headlight covers for adaptive xenon lights? I'm assuming you can't just buy the gasket...
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      10-29-2015, 06:44 PM   #41
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Quote:
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I am going to order new headlight covers ASAP and put brand new ones on both sides.

Anyone know the part number for the headlight covers for adaptive xenon lights? I'm assuming you can't just buy the gasket...
Covers are:
63127171569 and 63127171570
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      10-29-2015, 06:45 PM   #42
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Covers are:
63127171569 and 63127171570
These look like their gaskets have a split in them? Is that okay? The gaskets in mine have no split.
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      10-29-2015, 07:13 PM   #43
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These look like their gaskets have a split in them? Is that okay? The gaskets in mine have no split.
They are BMW OEM, so they should be fine. I think the key is that the gaskets will be fuller and uncompressed.
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      10-29-2015, 07:30 PM   #44
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They are BMW OEM, so they should be fine. I think the key is that the gaskets will be fuller and uncompressed.
Cool, I'll try them out. Maybe they have updated their gasket design to something that works better? That'd be nice.
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