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      05-01-2018, 02:32 PM   #89
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I recently ordered and replaced the belt, tensioner and idler pulleys (the package seen here from ECS Tuning) on my 2011 135i and I still have a belt squeak at around 1500+ RPM's. I know it's the belt because when I spray water on the v side of the belt while it is running, the noise temporarily goes away. I've re-ordered another tension pulley from ECS thinking the one that they sent was faulty (unlikely) and I've done the OFHG. There is no visible sign of oil on the belt or anywhere around the belt. Any ideas why I'm still getting a squeak?

Also have installed OEM alternator and AC compressor in the last 1k miles that didn't solve the problem.
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      05-01-2018, 05:10 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_EV View Post
I recently ordered and replaced the belt, tensioner and idler pulleys (the package seen here from ECS Tuning) on my 2011 135i and I still have a belt squeak at around 1500+ RPM's. I know it's the belt because when I spray water on the v side of the belt while it is running, the noise temporarily goes away. I've re-ordered another tension pulley from ECS thinking the one that they sent was faulty (unlikely) and I've done the OFHG. There is no visible sign of oil on the belt or anywhere around the belt. Any ideas why I'm still getting a squeak?

Also have installed OEM alternator and AC compressor in the last 1k miles that didn't solve the problem.
Another thread mentioned that the bolts on the power steering pump can loosen and back out. Like this:

Maybe check that?
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      05-01-2018, 07:04 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_EV View Post
I recently ordered and replaced the belt, tensioner and idler pulleys....

Any ideas why I'm still getting a squeak?
I would look at the alignment of the pulleys. IF you can use a laser pointer or level... that might help you find the pulley that's out of alignment.

So are all your pulley's new? Maybe there is some residue or debret inside the groves ? Maybe use a pick to clean out the channels.

A loose PS pump is also a good idea and also check your front crankshaft bolt that it's not loose. Some cars had issues with the crank bolt loosening up. Also check the front subframe for any contact with the crankshaft pulley. Some guys when they drag their car's can get axel hop and cause the pulley to contact the front radiator subframe.

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      05-02-2018, 07:49 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerAg View Post
Another thread mentioned that the bolts on the power steering pump can loosen and back out. Like this:

Maybe check that?
I checked them, took the pulley off tonight and inspected, no cracks or visible damage, put it back on and torqued to spec. I don't think the power steering pump is the issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I would look at the alignment of the pulleys. IF you can use a laser pointer or level... that might help you find the pulley that's out of alignment.

So are all your pulley's new? Maybe there is some residue or debret inside the groves ? Maybe use a pick to clean out the channels.

A loose PS pump is also a good idea and also check your front crankshaft bolt that it's not loose. Some cars had issues with the crank bolt loosening up. Also check the front subframe for any contact with the crankshaft pulley. Some guys when they drag their car's can get axel hop and cause the pulley to contact the front radiator subframe.

Dackel
Pulleys are new and although I don't have an alignment tool, from the video below I zoom in on each pulley and there is little to no movement. The crankshaft bottoming out may only be a N54 issue as there is at least a 3 to 4 inch gap in between the crankshaft pulley and the frame on my engine.

Check out these two videos that go further into what noise I'm hearing. Notes: 2011 N55 135i M sport, 72k miles, stock, no tune, (may have had one on it before, I am second owner) new deflection/tensioner pulley, new alternator, new ac compressor, new belt, OFHG done. Car does not make the noise when the belt is off. No visible signs of oil leaks.

Each pulley running smoothly with zero movement (due to misalignment):


Water test, the bottom pulley of the two on the new tensioner has a small vibration, is that normal?


***Edit Update***
Still not solved, but I will say that I took the belt off and took a tooth brush and cleaned every pulley and the belt in order to clean oil off of the belt/pulleys, and around all of the pulleys. There was little to no black residue coming off anything, there was a little bit of dried up oil around some of the pulleys on the engine block, but no active leaks anywhere. I then put a brand new belt *yes a 3rd belt* on the car, fired it up, drove down the road and in less than 100 feet the belt squeak was there. I think I can now eliminate oil leaking on the belt because if there was oil leaking on the belt, would it not take a few miles at least to build back up on the belt?

I'm at a loss.

Last edited by T_EV; 05-02-2018 at 09:05 PM.. Reason: Update
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      05-03-2018, 07:38 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_EV View Post

***Edit Update***
Still not solved, but I will say that I took the belt off and took a tooth brush and cleaned every pulley and the belt in order to clean oil off of the belt/pulleys, and around all of the pulleys. There was little to no black residue coming off anything, there was a little bit of dried up oil around some of the pulleys on the engine block, but no active leaks anywhere. I then put a brand new belt *yes a 3rd belt* on the car, fired it up, drove down the road and in less than 100 feet the belt squeak was there. I think I can now eliminate oil leaking on the belt because if there was oil leaking on the belt, would it not take a few miles at least to build back up on the belt?

I'm at a loss.
Have you tried using a LONG screw driver, put it on or near each pulley... and carefully place your ear on the other end. Or get some mechanic's stethoscope. It's gotta be one of those pulleys, or AC compressor or PS pump.

Maybe take the belt off(Again!) and turn each pulley by hand and listen for any bearing noises.

There are tools that can help pinpoint a misaligned pulley...

see this video at 09:30...




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      05-03-2018, 10:02 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Have you tried using a LONG screw driver, put it on or near each pulley... and carefully place your ear on the other end. Or get some mechanic's stethoscope. It's gotta be one of those pulleys, or AC compressor or PS pump.

Maybe take the belt off(Again!) and turn each pulley by hand and listen for any bearing noises.

There are tools that can help pinpoint a misaligned pulley...

see this video at 09:30...




Dackel
I actually have a mechanics stethoscope and I have put it everywhere (ac compressor, each pulley, ps pulley/pump, crankshaft, engine block, etc.) literally everywhere and I can't pinpoint the squeak. I've seen that tool but it's not cheap. I am going to take it to the shop (that charged me $110 and said it was the AC Compressor, which I replaced and still have the noise) to get a second opinion. I will keep everyone updated.
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      05-15-2018, 06:52 AM   #95
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I gave up, this is me signing off. $3,000 in shop/DIY's in less than three months and I traded her in last night on a new Mazda CX5 for the wife. Thanks everyone for all of the help, I wish I had of been able to find a solution and enjoy the car longer but I had to cut my losses as they exponentially grew.
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      05-26-2018, 11:43 AM   #96
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Well, i replaced the belt today, along with the tensioner.

I also ordered an idle roller, according to my dealer and realoem. Apparently my car does not have one installed. I am so confused now, if i should install it or leave it as i found it, despite purchasing the car with 46,000 kms who knows what or who did anything to it.

Part no: 11287535860 Supposed to sit under the alternator pulley, but nothing is there.

That is what caused me to make a mistake with the belt, i had to loosen the new aluminum bolt holding the new tensioner. I know it is a one time use, but i had no choice.

Babied the car back home, Monday i will purchase a new bolt and install it. Maybe i will temp install that idler to see how it fits in there, as i said it confused me when Realoem and the dealer informed me that i have one, yet on the car there isn't.
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      08-30-2018, 08:57 AM   #97
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Reviving this thread because I am having belt squeal. It was intermittent - some days yes, some days no, and now some days it is worse than others, but it is pretty much a constant.

I would like to DIY fix it.

I have a question: I haven't really looked at it yet, but does the N55 have one belt or more than one? I thought it only had one, but I keep seeing references to the serpentine belt and the accessory belt - I assume they are the same, but the lack of common terminology makes me wonder.

So is this a fairly easy DIY fix without specialized tools or equipment?

First I was thinking of just adjusting the tension and see if that works, and if it doesn't, moving on to replace the belt and maybe pulley(s).

I am going to read through the whole thread ASAP and some of my questions may be answered, but I am at work and won't have time until later today. Any help would be appreciated.
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      08-30-2018, 03:33 PM   #98
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Itís pretty easy. Take your time and go slowly, use a piece of cardboard on the radiator to protect its fins and youíll be fine. If you have a dct you need access from underneath to take out one screw to release the transmission cooler from the radiator fan. If itís a M/T you can do this from above only.

There is only one belt and one tensioner.

You need a quality set of torx sockets (male and female) to finish the job.
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      08-30-2018, 03:38 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
Reviving this thread because I am having belt squeal. It was intermittent - some days yes, some days no, and now some days it is worse than others, but it is pretty much a constant.

I would like to DIY fix it.

I have a question: I haven't really looked at it yet, but does the N55 have one belt or more than one? I thought it only had one, but I keep seeing references to the serpentine belt and the accessory belt - I assume they are the same, but the lack of common terminology makes me wonder.

So is this a fairly easy DIY fix without specialized tools or equipment?

First I was thinking of just adjusting the tension and see if that works, and if it doesn't, moving on to replace the belt and maybe pulley(s).


I am going to read through the whole thread ASAP and some of my questions may be answered, but I am at work and won't have time until later today. Any help would be appreciated.


There is only ONE belt. I would replace your belt along with the tensioner and idler pulleys.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_5092


N55 engine...
Name:  N55   bmw-twinpower-02-750x500.jpg
Views: 255
Size:  87.8 KB

N54 engine...
Name:  N54d.jpg
Views: 292
Size:  60.9 KB
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      01-12-2019, 02:46 PM   #100
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Update

BMWCCA Roundel editor Mike Miller put this "note" in January issue.

"NOTE FROM TECH TALK:N54 ENGINES

There are rare but costly occasions of poly-ribbed belt tensioner failure leading to front crankshaft seal damage. Replace poly-ribbed belts and their tensioners preventively every 60,000 miles."

Now, another issue can be a badly leaking oil filter housing gasket [OFHG] can leak oil onto the belt causing it to break. This affects N52 engines as well. I recently pulled an alternator off an E90 w/N52 and it was all covered in oil. Now this situation would take a long time to develop and the leaking OFHG would be ignored by whomever is doing oil changes.
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