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      04-26-2013, 06:21 AM   #67
Guam135i
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I tried to replace my plugs since my car has 62K miles. I bought a thin wall socket an a torque wrench to do it. However when I was removing one plug it felt like it was cross threaded coming out. finally got the plug out and threads looked okay. I tried to install the new plug and I could not get it started by hand the side of the socket was rubbing against the side of the hole. I used a ratchet to get it going but I had to stop because it felt it might cross thread and it's aluminum is this normal?

I need help
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      04-26-2013, 07:15 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guam135i View Post
I tried to replace my plugs since my car has 62K miles. I bought a thin wall socket an a torque wrench to do it. However when I was removing one plug it felt like it was cross threaded coming out. finally got the plug out and threads looked okay. I tried to install the new plug and I could not get it started by hand the side of the socket was rubbing against the side of the hole. I used a ratchet to get it going but I had to stop because it felt it might cross thread and it's aluminum is this normal?

I need help
^^That doesn't sound good. I hope you have not started the engine. You might want to have a shop(dealer or indi) check that plug.

Q's.... Where did you buy your spark plug socket>? It should be a 14mm 12point - with very thin wall, design. This is why I always buy high quality tools. Even BMW dealers sell the special spark plug tool.

Where did you buy your plugs? Maybe it is what is defective. Either way... its not a good feeling when you strip the spark plug threads. Hoping for the best for you.

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      04-26-2013, 11:43 AM   #69
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I put a little anti-seize on my new plug threads.
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      04-26-2013, 02:07 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guam135i View Post
I tried to replace my plugs since my car has 62K miles. I bought a thin wall socket an a torque wrench to do it. However when I was removing one plug it felt like it was cross threaded coming out. finally got the plug out and threads looked okay. I tried to install the new plug and I could not get it started by hand the side of the socket was rubbing against the side of the hole. I used a ratchet to get it going but I had to stop because it felt it might cross thread and it's aluminum is this normal?

I need help
When i changed mine they were tight until i reached the very last few threads. I put a very small drop of anti seize to help with the install and a small bit of die electric grease on the plug to prevent this...
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Coil was "frozen onto the plug"
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      04-26-2013, 04:11 PM   #71
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Thanks for the responses, the socket does not go center into the hole right? I bought the socket with the plugs. Looking thru the hole thread seems okay it is just that the socket rubs at the side of the hole (towards the exhaust).

Anybody that has changed the plugs does it fell like this, does the socket go right in the center and not rub against the sides of the hole. To start it can you turn it with your hand?
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      04-26-2013, 04:18 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guam135i View Post

Anybody that has changed the plugs does it fell like this, does the socket go right in the center and not rub against the sides of the hole. To start it can you turn it with your hand?
My Hazet spark plug socket went right down the "hole" and did not rub.

I just measured the OD(outer diamter) of the tool/socket it is 18mm's. Use a open ended wrench to check your socket IF you do not have any calipers in mm's.
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      04-26-2013, 04:50 PM   #73
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BMW Spark Plug Socket Thin Wall (3/8" Drive, 12 Points, 14mm)

By KOMMEN TOOLS

This is the socket I got I will go and measure the one I have

Guess what my 18 mm wrench would not fit around the socket.

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Last edited by Guam135i; 05-01-2013 at 06:36 PM..
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      05-01-2013, 06:29 PM   #74
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Does that picture make sense?
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      05-01-2013, 11:04 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guam135i View Post
BMW Spark Plug Socket Thin Wall (3/8" Drive, 12 Points, 14mm)

By KOMMEN TOOLS

This is the socket I got I will go and measure the one I have

Guess what my 18 mm wrench would not fit around the socket.
Now you know why it was binding up down in the plug holes.

You can turn your socket down by using a grinding wheel/stone.

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Just put the socket on the end of an extension and keep grinding the socket until your 18mm wrench fits over it.

Or... go buy a new spark plug tool/socket from your local BMW dealer. I bet even SEARS sells the proper socket
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      05-02-2013, 08:53 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guam135i View Post

Guess what my 18 mm wrench would not fit around the socket.

Here are some pics of my Hazet spark plug socket 14mm 12 point 3/8th's drive, with my Hazet 18mm open ended wrench to measure the socket's O.D. ...

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      05-02-2013, 07:13 PM   #77
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thank you very much I ordered one already from BMS. I went to the indie BMW shop and they did not even have the socket for it. I used a rubber hose attached it to the end of the spark plug and used that to guide it and start the threading it into the head a good way to avoid any cross threading
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      05-09-2013, 01:14 PM   #78
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Thank you! fixed my jb4 problems!

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      05-13-2013, 10:54 AM   #79
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Changed my spark plugs yesterday and let me say it was by far the biggest PITA. Changing my rotors and pads were simpler. Aside from having to take apart the cabin filter and what not to make room, the actual spark plug socket was a mission to find locally. Went to 4 different auto parts stores until I finally found it at Sears and even still it was too thick which I couldn't figure out why I had the exact sized socket but still the plugs weren't coming out. It was only until I read through this thread that I learned the socket thickness is ALSO of factor. Long story short, thanks for the info guys and I'm sharing my experience simply to stress to those who want to do the work themselves, GET THE RIGHT SOCKET.
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      05-13-2013, 04:37 PM   #80
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UPDATE... having an issue
I changed the plugs yesterday and when i first cranked the motor it sounded like a V8 with cams... turned off the car and turned on again and it was humming normally except a bit louder than usual and it was kicking out smoke from the exhaust. Finally the motor calmed like always and seemed fine. Today i headed to work and all was fine until after work when i headed home and the power wasn't there and the car threw the message of "motor malfunction" and that it was running at reduced power. Went by an auto parts store to check for codes and nothing.... with car on and off. BMW wants $135 just to hook it up to diagnose with their system....
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      05-14-2013, 07:08 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIAblu1 View Post
UPDATE... having an issue
I changed the plugs yesterday and when i first cranked the motor it sounded like a V8 with cams... turned off the car and turned on again and it was humming normally except a bit louder than usual and it was kicking out smoke from the exhaust. Finally the motor calmed like always and seemed fine. Today i headed to work and all was fine until after work when i headed home and the power wasn't there and the car threw the message of "motor malfunction" and that it was running at reduced power. Went by an auto parts store to check for codes and nothing.... with car on and off. BMW wants $135 just to hook it up to diagnose with their system....

You need a scanner that can detect BMW specific codes, not just general OBDII codes. Some of the codes are shaddow codes and can only be read by BMW or a very good scanner like the BT (Bav Tech) cable or those coding OBDII cables with downloaded sw from the web.

I would watch that COBB video again... you probably do not have one of the coil packs connectors seated correctly or one of the coils is broken(down in the plug hole). You should inspect the old coils very carefully for any arch tracing(carbon) on the rubber stem part.

ALSO... I hope you used BMW dealer bought plugs. Some people have reported issues like this(missfires and thrown codes) with the OEM Bosch spark plugs. ALWAYS use BMW BOSCH plugs. There is a difference. And not just in the price.

Quote:
I'm sharing my experience simply to stress to those who want to do the work themselves, GET THE RIGHT SOCKET
Sometimes a "cheap" tool can be quite expensive at the end of the day. I always try to buy quality over price.
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      05-14-2013, 09:09 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIAblu1 View Post
UPDATE... having an issue
I changed the plugs yesterday and when i first cranked the motor it sounded like a V8 with cams... turned off the car and turned on again and it was humming normally except a bit louder than usual and it was kicking out smoke from the exhaust. Finally the motor calmed like always and seemed fine. Today i headed to work and all was fine until after work when i headed home and the power wasn't there and the car threw the message of "motor malfunction" and that it was running at reduced power. Went by an auto parts store to check for codes and nothing.... with car on and off. BMW wants $135 just to hook it up to diagnose with their system....

You need a scanner that can detect BMW specific codes, not just general OBDII codes. Some of the codes are shaddow codes and can only be read by BMW or a very good scanner like the BT (Bav Tech) cable or those coding OBDII cables with downloaded sw from the web.

I would watch that COBB video again... you probably do not have one of the coil packs connectors seated correctly or one of the coils is broken(down in the plug hole). You should inspect the old coils very carefully for any arch tracing(carbon) on the rubber stem part.

ALSO... I hope you used BMW dealer bought plugs. Some people have reported issues like this(missfires and thrown codes) with the OEM Bosch spark plugs. ALWAYS use BMW BOSCH plugs. There is a difference. And not just in the price.

Quote:
I'm sharing my experience simply to stress to those who want to do the work themselves, GET THE RIGHT SOCKET
Sometimes a "cheap" tool can be quite expensive at the end of the day. I always try to buy quality over price.
I bought the exact Bosch replacement plugs, coil packs weren't changed though, I reused the ones I had and I looked inside each when I pulled them and they all looked fine with shinny tips, no blacking. I'm going to give the motor another look over today and back track. When driving normally the car is fine, no codes, but when I give it past 1/4 throttle there's no response, it just slooowly starts to pick up and then the malfunction message is thrown.
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      05-14-2013, 12:44 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIAblu1 View Post
I bought the exact Bosch replacement plugs, coil packs weren't changed though, I reused the ones I had and I looked inside each when I pulled them and they all looked fine with shinny tips, no blacking. I'm going to give the motor another look over today and back track. When driving normally the car is fine, no codes, but when I give it past 1/4 throttle there's no response, it just slooowly starts to pick up and then the malfunction message is thrown.
So you bought your spark plugs from a BMW dealer? IF the answer is No, then go buy some and try them AND report back. There is a difference between BMW Bosch plugs and Bosch(aftermarket plugs).

It could still be your coils or fuel injectors as well. But spark plugs are the cheapest first "fix". And it has been known that aftermarket Bosch spark plugs DO not work as well as BMW ones.

Don't believe me... just go back a few pages in this thread and read this(post #44 and #45)...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=45

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=44


Also... make sure ypur dealer gives you the correct spark plugs. There is a N54 and a N55 version:

N54...
12-12-0-037-244 ( 3 prong, not 4 ) in currently production

N55...
12-12-0-037-582 ( single prong )

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=42

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=43



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      05-14-2013, 01:58 PM   #84
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I hate always being the example for spark plug problems
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      05-14-2013, 02:09 PM   #85
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I hate always being the example for spark plug problems
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      05-14-2013, 05:12 PM   #86
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Ok, so I removed all 6 plugs


Seems like cyl 1 & 2 fried the plugs for some reason
Plug 1:


Plug 2:



Plug 3-6 are fine:


Not sure what could've caused 1 & 2 to burn up that way in a matter of a day and why those only and not all of them if it's in fact due to a difference between these replacement Bosch plugs in comparison to BMW specific bought ones...
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      05-15-2013, 09:27 AM   #87
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Your my Poster-boy!
It's only because my post and troubleshooting were so damn thorough
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      05-15-2013, 11:40 AM   #88
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So after replacing the plugs on 1 & 2 the car is responding much better but still throwing the engine malfunction and not running to potential. Will be getting the car scanned and checked for the codes.
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