Wastegate rattle repair (anyone do this?)

[BahamaBart]

Im just trying to catch. I called my bmw rep to see if they were doing anything about the wastegate rattle and he said not yet. I thought i had read somewhere that they had extend the turbo warranty to 120,000 miles?

I have 70,000 in 3 years and i am one big rattle. Still boost good but my love for this car is waining.

[takrdown]

I'm getting the rattle again I just tightened the rear waste gate as I had done before and the rattle is still there so I'm thinking it may be the more forward waste gate which looks a bit daunting to get to.

Has anyone gotten to the front waste gate to tighten it and if so how? I'm doing my best to avoid the dealership at this point.

Thanks!

[WPG D33Z]

I'm getting it bad after my DP install and I don't want to take my stuff off to go to the dealer. How hard was it to get to for the fix and how long did it take to complete?

[Spoolin Montego]

I talked to my SA about this issue since it became more pronounced with my afe downpipes. He said the wastegates on my car were making little noise and it was actually the downpipe slightly tapping on the motormount.

[Alexcaruso]

My dealership, Stevens Creek, was happy to replace my turbos if it weren't for the manager of BMW North America making a surprise visit there the day I brought it in! He took one look at my downpipes and immediately balcklisted my car from ever getting repaired for the turbo rattle.

[heiman5]

Originally Posted by BahamaBart

Im just trying to catch. I called my bmw rep to see if they were doing anything about the wastegate rattle and he said not yet. I thought i had read somewhere that they had extend the turbo warranty to 120,000 miles?

I have 70,000 in 3 years and i am one big rattle. Still boost good but my love for this car is waining.

Any truth to the 120k turbo extension rumor?

[cheshirecat79]

Originally Posted by Alexcaruso

My dealership, Stevens Creek, was happy to replace my turbos if it weren't for the manager of BMW North America making a surprise visit there the day I brought it in! He took one look at my downpipes and immediately balcklisted my car from ever getting repaired for the turbo rattle.

Ugh. That sucks. Just another reason why always reverting to stock before dealer warranty repairs is a good idea.

[Dustin335i]

Originally Posted by MilehighM3

I've gone this probably 25-30 times. Always on a lift. If you think the rear turbo is hard, wait till you try the front. The rear one is pretty cake from underneath the car. The front one I usually pull the downpipes and the axle/axle support housing if it's an xdrive car. Don't loose the e clips that hold the actuator rods on either. You can't get them separately from the dealer and it's tough to find the right size elsewhere without the old one as a reference.

Hey - I'm stuck with my actuator rod out of adjustment. It's my fault, as I went too, overcompensated trying to get it back to where it was, etc. Do you have any tips for knowing how to get this length correct? Do you happen to know how many threads should be showing on a properly adjusted arm? I'm currently throwing a 'low boost pressure' code....

thanks a lot!

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by Dustin335i

Hey - I'm stuck with my actuator rod out of adjustment. It's my fault, as I went too, overcompensated trying to get it back to where it was, etc. Do you have any tips for knowing how to get this length correct? Do you happen to know how many threads should be showing on a properly adjusted arm? I'm currently throwing a 'low boost pressure' code....

thanks a lot!

If the rod is adjusted too far, that should set a 30FE- boost pressure too high fault. There isn't a spec for the amount of threads remaining on the actuator arm, only the adjustment made at 300mbar. You have to remove the down pipe and feel the tension on the wastgegate against the turbo housing. There should be a slight resistance when turning the wastgate when it's properly adjusted. Other than that, it would be a guess and check method

[Dustin335i]

Originally Posted by MilehighM3

If the rod is adjusted too far, that should set a 30FE- boost pressure too high fault. There isn't a spec for the amount of threads remaining on the actuator arm, only the adjustment made at 300mbar. You have to remove the down pipe and feel the tension on the wastgegate against the turbo housing. There should be a slight resistance when turning the wastgate when it's properly adjusted. Other than that, it would be a guess and check method

Thanks for your response. At this point, I don't know if the rod is adjusted too tight or too loose, which is the problem. Is 300mbar a pressure/tension spec? I'm not familiar. I've been using the guess and check method for adjusting the rod, but there are so many threads that I'm somewhat lost in remembering where I started. I just double-checked my code; it's 30FF "Charging Pressure Control, Boost Pressure Too Low"

[Willortiz]

I know this post is a little old but now im having my wastegate rattle im at 60k. Can any one give me advice on how to adjust the rod. I got the nut toward the engine to lossen i guess and turn the rod away to tighten?

[dubluv17]

I just tried mine at 92k miles and I swear it's seized to the rod. Ended up rounding the edges with a flare nut wrench that I cut short to get in there. Such a pita. Is there any way to remove the diaphragm with the rod and adjust it outside of the car, then reinstall it? That's my only option at this point other than new turbos.

[MZWIE]

No amount of adjustment will ever fix the problem. Either replace the waste gate flapper valve or get new turbos. Either way you will need to remove them and this takes a whole day due to the amount of related stuff that needs to be removed first.

[ayao]

Is there an equivalent replacement from RB or Pure that will increase the longevity of the turbos or fix the wastegate issue permanently if one is not after huge HP/TQ gains?