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      10-12-2018, 03:44 PM   #1
MrKevinRosales
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Dot next to mileage

Today on the way home from work I got the TPMS inactive message and that flashed for a bit. Then more lights came on, the red brake light, the Abs light, the other TPMS light. They went away after a few seconds but I was left with a dot next to my mileage.
After a bit of reading I found that it means that my mileage on the readout does not match the actual mileage.

The car hasn't been worked on this year except for maintenance done at the dealership and a tire replacement, but that was months ago

Any idea what would cause this?
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      10-12-2018, 08:33 PM   #2
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Post a pic? Never heard of that happening before.
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      10-12-2018, 08:59 PM   #3
MrKevinRosales
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray_Panther View Post
Post a pic? Never heard of that happening before.
I went out to my car to take a picture and sure enough the dot was gone and the tpms light was too.
I managed to find this picture that shows the dot though
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      10-12-2018, 09:06 PM   #4
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2011 135i  [0.00]
My bet is a low battery(?)
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      10-12-2018, 09:10 PM   #5
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Low battery does make strange lights show up on the dash.

Maybe check the battery to eliminate it as a possibility.
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      10-13-2018, 09:48 AM   #6
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That is more infamously called the tamper dot. The gauge cluster must think that the odometer has been tampered with. More likely cause is fluctuating electrical signals.

I'd say your battery is well on its way to death row...
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      10-13-2018, 10:40 AM   #7
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Dot next to mileage

Thanks for the input, I'll definitely have the battery checked soon, I have noticed a few harder starts recently when staring the car up after just being shut off (when getting gas).
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      10-16-2018, 03:36 PM   #8
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So I decided to come to BMW to get my battery tested since I live a few miles away. Battery died as soon as I got here....guess who's about to pay dealer prices for new battery...
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      10-16-2018, 03:55 PM   #9
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I swear "they" know. Sorry bud
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      10-16-2018, 04:29 PM   #10
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That dot is like a pimple that just cost you about $250 to get popped.
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      10-16-2018, 04:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommm View Post
That dot is like a pimple that just cost you about $250 to get popped.
So that doy actually went away after that day. Next time. I got in the car it was gone.

As far as the battery replacement. It was less than I expected. Probably thanks to the BMWcca discount. I may have actually. Paid more if I bought the battery myself and coded with Carly
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      10-17-2018, 08:53 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKevinRosales View Post
So that doy actually went away after that day. Next time. I got in the car it was gone.

As far as the battery replacement. It was less than I expected. Probably thanks to the BMWcca discount. I may have actually. Paid more if I bought the battery myself and coded with Carly
What did it run you from the dealer with coding?
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      10-17-2018, 12:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommm View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKevinRosales View Post
So that doy actually went away after that day. Next time. I got in the car it was gone.

As far as the battery replacement. It was less than I expected. Probably thanks to the BMWcca discount. I may have actually. Paid more if I bought the battery myself and coded with Carly
What did it run you from the dealer with coding?
The total came to $374 including tax

If I had gone the self coding route it would have been between $400 and $420 not including tax
240-260 for battery (price on ECS tuning)
40 for shipping
60 for Carly app,
60 for carly Gen 2 adapter

So all in all I think it went pretty well, my local dealership has always been very helpful and it got me out of a pinch.
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      10-17-2018, 03:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKevinRosales View Post
The total came to $374 including tax

If I had gone the self coding route it would have been between $400 and $420 not including tax
240-260 for battery (price on ECS tuning)
40 for shipping
60 for Carly app,
60 for carly Gen 2 adapter

So all in all I think it went pretty well, my local dealership has always been very helpful and it got me out of a pinch.
I will go the Advance Auto made in Europe (i think the Advance Auto AGMs in my Porsche and Volvo was made in the Fatherland by Johnson Controls) Autocraft AGM 900CCA 95ah size H8 route. $190 for the battery less 20% is $152 add about $160 for the Foxwell tool and I am at $310 plus I have the Foxwell/Schwaben tool to activate the ABS next time i bleed the brakes and whatever other functions it does.

I am not fond of the two dealerships by me.
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Last edited by Tommm; 10-17-2018 at 04:09 PM..
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      10-17-2018, 08:23 PM   #15
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If the description of the AGM battery says power frame grid technology it is a Johnson Controls battery.

The AGM sold by Advance says:
Engineered with PowerFrame positive grid technology which virtually eliminates premature failure and is up to 66% more durable and more corrosion-resistant than other grid designs
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