Wastegate rattle repair (anyone do this?)

[takrdown]

I was trying to do the wastegate repair discussed in this thread:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176269

Unfortunetaly, I wasn't able to get my big hands down to the 10mm nut. Has anyone else done this on the 135? Any pro-tips?

Thanks in advance!

[Dackelone]

I believe the 135i's do NOT have this problem. When BMW changed the turbo wastegate arm dia (from 8mm to 10mm's) - that was before the first 135i's went into production.

[takrdown]

I wish you were correct, but I'm having the EXACT same symptoms that they indicated in the referenced thread.

If anything I'm hoping this is what it is, because the repair looks extremely easy if I could just get my gorilla hands in there

[Sidh135i]

Takrdown is correct, my co worker just finished replacing both turbochargers on a 135i with an n54.

[takrdown]

I hope that fate doesn't fall on me as well.

[MilehighM3]

Dackle is right. But some higher mileage cars have a slight rattle, even with the larger wastegate actuator rods. (8mm) they actually changed them from 6 to 8mm btw.

Make sure to get new gaskets. Esp the gaskets from the turbo to the down pipe, if not you will probably have a leak that will sound very similar to a wastegate rattle.

[takrdown]

My rattle is pretty pronounced after I let off the throttle. I just want to try to tighten that rod a little to see if that fixes it up. I'm at 75k and have no use for the dealer at this point unless it's absolutely necessary and I don't want the software update.

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by takrdown

My rattle is pretty pronounced after I let off the throttle. I just want to try to tighten that rod a little to see if that fixes it up. I'm at 75k and have no use for the dealer at this point unless it's absolutely necessary and I don't want the software update.

Don't over tighten it or you'll get over boost faults right away. The "spec" is at about 7" of vacuum applied to the actuator, you should just be able to turn the wastegate disc with light pressure. Fyi. Don't just put a few turns on it, make the proper adjustment and your car should be good for a while longer, probably reduce a little lag at the same time.

[takrdown]

Originally Posted by Bmw135er

Don't over tighten it or you'll get over boost faults right away. The "spec" is at about 7" of vacuum applied to the actuator, you should just be able to turn the wastegate disc with light pressure. Fyi. Don't just put a few turns on it, make the proper adjustment and your car should be good for a while longer, probably reduce a little lag at the same time.

Thanks! That was one of my concerns doing this of course. I'm just going to do 2 to 2.5 turns and see if that clears up the rattle. It seems to be the average of the 335 guys that have done this.

I tried and tried again last evening to get a wrench around the 10mm bolt and just couldn't do it. I even removed the engine couling just hoping an extra 1/4 inch would be enough and no dice.

I've come to the conclusion that the best way to do this in a 135 might just be to throw it on a lift and get it from underneath. There just ins't enough room between the engine and whatever that pipe is.

Have you done this yourself? Did you come to the same conclusion?

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by takrdown

Have you done this yourself? Did you come to the same conclusion?

I've gone this probably 25-30 times. Always on a lift. If you think the rear turbo is hard, wait till you try the front. The rear one is pretty cake from underneath the car. The front one I usually pull the downpipes and the axle/axle support housing if it's an xdrive car. Don't loose the e clips that hold the actuator rods on either. You can't get them separately from the dealer and it's tough to find the right size elsewhere without the old one as a reference.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by takrdown

I wish you were correct, but I'm having the EXACT same symptoms that they indicated in the referenced thread.

If anything I'm hoping this is what it is, because the repair looks extremely easy if I could just get my gorilla hands in there

Takrdown... have you seen this TSB... BMW N54 update SIB11.13.07
This sounds(sorry no pun intended!) like it could be your problem. IF that the case your need a SW flash from BMW.

[takrdown]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Takrdown... have you seen this TSB... BMW N54 update SIB11.13.07
This sounds(sorry no pun intended!) like it could be your problem. IF that the case your need a SW flash from BMW.

Thanks Dackelone! This is exactly my problem and I have heard of this and it is spoken about a bit in the referenced thread.

My apprehension with getting the software update is that many people are reporting that they have more pronounced turbo lag post update.

I also don’t want to spend a couple of hundred bucks to bring it to the dealership so they can do a software update. If anyone knows how much this software update would cost in CT that would be helpful though.

I’m going to give this fix a try and if it doesn’t work or comes back in a short period of time then I will be forced to get the software update. It’s been my plan all along, I just can’t seem to get past step 1

Thanks for the help!

[takrdown]

Originally Posted by Bmw135er

I've gone this probably 25-30 times. Always on a lift. If you think the rear turbo is hard, wait till you try the front. The rear one is pretty cake from underneath the car. The front one I usually pull the downpipes and the axle/axle support housing if it's an xdrive car. Don't loose the e clips that hold the actuator rods on either. You can't get them separately from the dealer and it's tough to find the right size elsewhere without the old one as a reference.

I was just thinking about this and you are saying 25-30 times! Is this on your own car? Has the rattle come back this frequently for you?

Thanks!

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by takrdown

I was just thinking about this and you are saying 25-30 times! Is this on your own car? Has the rattle come back this frequently for you?
Thanks!

Not mine. Clients cars. ;-)

[takrdown]

Originally Posted by Bmw135er

Not mine. Clients cars. ;-)

Thank god

[akak1997]

I just got back from the dealership, they won't repair the wastegate rattle, they're blaming it on my Aftermarket BOV..... wtf

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by akak1997

I just got back from the dealership, they won't repair the wastegate rattle, they're blaming it on my Aftermarket BOV..... wtf

So reinstall your stock cp and take it back to them so the noise is isolated.

[akak1997]

yeah, I know, but it's just pita to have to return to stock, when everyone (I'm sure the dealer's tech as well) know where the problem is

[MilehighM3]

It can't be as big of a pia as adjusting wastegates! Lol

[takrdown]

I can finally report that I was able to adjust the wastegate actuator rod last evening and it worked like a champ! My car doesn’t sound like an embarrassing garbage truck when I let off the throttle anymore and, it’s probably all perception, but I do feel like I had some lag go away.

If anyone wants to do this, I think the only way to do it on a 135i is from underneath and even that proved to be very difficult. I used a lift, but I think it would be doable just jacking the car up or on a ramp.

The undercar cover is pretty self explanatory to get off…it’s something like 15-20 8mm screws that are all on the bottom except two which are in the wheel wells on the side. Once that’s off it took me a good 30 minutes to find a good position to actually be able to get a good hold of the 10mm nut to loosen it. It’s still pretty cramped in there and I don’t have small hands.

Piece of advice: wait for the exhaust to cool down…your arm will be rubbing against it to get to the nut and rod. I also recommend using one of those midget wrench sets that craftsman sell for like $20 for the set. A regular sized wrench will prove to be way too difficult.

Once the nut was loosened I used the 4mm wrench that came with the set and tightened the rod about 2-2.25 turns. I then lowered the car and started it to see how that worked and it sounded just like it did when I took delivery in Munich….beautiful. I then buttoned up the cover and drove it about 250 miles last night to water polo practice and back. Still sounds beautiful.

Like everyone says…do not over tighten the actuator arm! If you do the turbo won’t be able to dump any extra air and you’ll kill it. I was scared with just 2 turns, but in the referenced thread that seems to be what everyone else needed…..one guy even needed four.

I’ll be driving to DC and back from CT next week. If anything bad happens I’ll let you all know…if you don’t see an update…assume it still works like a champ.

[akak1997]

Originally Posted by Bmw135er

It can't be as big of a pia as adjusting wastegates! Lol

I just read the print out from the dealer, they declined the repair because of all my aftermarket mods: DCI, catback exhaust, BOV, Catch Can. I don't see them mention my FMIC, but I've that too. So I basically have to return to full stock to even get them to look at it... and there's no guaranty that they'll fix it.

[BostonBeemah]

Originally Posted by akak1997

I just read the print out from the dealer, they declined the repair because of all my aftermarket mods: DCI, catback exhaust, BOV, Catch Can. I don't see them mention my FMIC, but I've that too. So I basically have to return to full stock to even get them to look at it... and there's no guaranty that they'll fix it.

wow thats complete crap... im gonna try this out this weekend and will keep everyone updated. I hope it works. I cant stand the diesel noise anymore lol

just to clarify, i need to turn the nut towards the motor and the rod away?? Also do i keep turning until it stops? or just 2 revolutions??

thanks