What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by AlpineG05

1m strut brace conversion
Turner carbon intake
Pedal Haus aluminum pedal set
Cowl delete

If you're interested in cleaning the cowl area up even further, you can route those dangling cables along the firewall.

[MParallel]

Just for fun I coded BREMSL_FKT_MIT_NSL to actibe, which turns the rear fogs into brakelights.
Looks kinda cool with the whole rear lit up when on the brakes. This is not the brake force display. This is the fogs always come on as if they are brakelights. So basically all the red in the cluster lighting up.

But to save bulb life I well code it back off. You can play around with the PWM signal though, so they don't light up as bright as when they are used as foglights.

Sorry no pic as well, my legs are not that long lol.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by MParallel

Yeah I'm aware of the cover. But still access seems very limited after losening, to slide the brace out. Look much easier of the whole piece the cabin filter is resting on is removed.

Ordering some E-torx bits as we speak.

ps I fitted the SS pedal last year as I really like them. So far holding fine, but then again, less than a year of use on them. (and not much mileage).

It's not bad. They just slide in and you capture them with the bolt through the cover and zip it up.

I've had the SS pedals for a long time. This is probably normal wear and tear but the finish is suspicious for corrosion, looks like bubbles in paint. Probably just need to be replaced if I'm being fair to their quality.

[Ric in RVA]

Watch those Kroger grocery loaders.

Douchebag kid smacked a can of tomatoes into the passenger side of the car and chipped the paint. Didn't say anything. I got home and found it while unloading. Drove back and parked it in the space and got the manager. Found the pain chip on the ground.....pretty hard to deny.

Waiting to hear from kroger how they are going to make it right.

[dfox]

Originally Posted by MParallel

Just for fun I coded BREMSL_FKT_MIT_NSL to actibe, which turns the rear fogs into brakelights.
Looks kinda cool with the whole rear lit up when on the brakes. This is not the brake force display. This is the fogs always come on as if they are brakelights. So basically all the red in the cluster lighting up.

But to save bulb life I well code it back off. You can play around with the PWM signal though, so they don't light up as bright as when they are used as foglights.

Sorry no pic as well, my legs are not that long lol.

Is that for the LCI lights?

[dfox]

Doing some research, I found it's about time to replace the front crankshaft seal and probably the valve cover as well.

more than I have time for, so probably off to the shop for this one.

[Geran]

Originally Posted by Jbonly21

Battery relocation!

Is that a custom panel?

[Jbonly21]

Originally Posted by Geran

Is that a custom panel?

Yes

[MParallel]

Originally Posted by dfox

Is that for the LCI lights?

Well Ithey are on mine, but the parameter is part of the FRM3 module.
So will work just fine for any unit as long as the parameter is available

Probably also in FRM2, although I haven’t checked.

[Fishee]

It/original part lasted over 17 years... not bad.
Big job, but not too complex - just a lot to remove and re-install.
Advice: take your time, take pics, use ziplocks, and label connectors.

[1and1]

Wow, nice trophy there!

[ShocknAwe]

Painted my sunroof delete panel. Need to wet sand it. Looks a lot better than chipped delaminating gel coat.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by 1and1

Wow, nice trophy there!

lol - a trophy I hope to never win again.

[1and1]

Originally Posted by Fishee

lol - a trophy I hope to never win again.

OK..., yeah I get that.

Merit Badge then?

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by 1and1

OK..., yeah I get that.

Merit Badge then?

Drive Break Fix Drive

[kashikoi]

Bought a bunch of parts..

- 1M front fenders+side signals, headlight brackets, w/window washer fluid relocation parts
- 1M side skirts
- Ton of wheel housing parts..
- Side view mirror 'the actual mirror pieces', and covers.
- Ex-Pressed steel rear flares (it was either these or 8k a piece OE quarter panels).

Incoming:
- Folding side view mirror assemblies themselves (went on ebay for these since they seem to be back ordered everywhere).
- Front bumper, ducts, grill.
- Rear bumper, good ole 'set of covers', ~$400 belly pan uggh.., left+right guides
- Front and rear flap towing eyes, ~$50 for little pieces of plastic

I have a 128i so doing a full 1M clone might raise eye brows and trying to get a handle of the clash of approaches here with my build. On the one hand, I have a 6mt 128i with an n52 FBO probably does ~290hp at the crank, numerous suspension and handling mods (think e9x m3 steering rack, control arms in the front and back, RSBs, every wishlist mod for a standard E82, just too much for me to write out). I did a rear seat delete, and have a fiberglass sunroof delete panel and anti-gravity battery chillin in my home office on stand by. Looking to get ~3000lbs.

On the other hand, just love love love the beefiness of that 1m wide body. My humble FBO n52 doesn't need that much rubber, but I just can't help it. I need the wide body OEM style in my life. Means I need to sell my beloved TE:AL <17lb fully forged 17x8.5 wheels. Gonna move up to the TE:AL 18x9.5 ET22 all around (I understand a stock 1M has 10 in the back but I wanna be square and have the least amount of rubber to the road for a decent looking wide body). Only problem is they come in gun metal or black. Damn love the machined metal finish I currently have. Turns out there are TE"AL 19x9.5 ET22 in machined metal but 19 is a little too big for the e82 imo; but I get it BMW, grab the 19" comp wheels from the bin. No i don't want those, too heavy..

I also don't really want 2 sided exhaust, I like my current setup, so gonna think about what to do here with the rear bumper and diffuser. And for the front bumper, I'm going to have two ducts going to oil coolers I don't have and don't need/want (keeping my NA build simple), so need to re-purpose them somehow, like reroute them to my wheel wells or something like the MSport front bumper.

Anyway, I already invested a lot of time and money converting my base 128i to a full M Sport. So for the most part I'm hoarding/hodling? in case 1M parts go way too expensive or NLA. Gonna enjoy M Sport build for a while and brush up on my welding skills for those rear flares. Wish me luck..

[n2djazz]

Replaced electric fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Been noticing intermittent engine misses / stumbles at highway speeds. Happens randomly, but often enough to be concerning. Replaced plugs / coils at regular interval expecting problem to clear to no avail. Took 300 mile trip from Atlanta to Charleston SC. Got half-power gong circa 50 miles from Charleston (aw CRAP !!!) WTF over. I'm climbing hills on I-26, construction barriers on both sides, with no shoulder. Traffic is off the chart. I find a break in the barriers and pull onto shoulder. Car dies. Car restarts but runs ROUGH. I have GOT to get off the Interstate, AND I've got more hills to climb. I find a break in traffic and get back out there. Found an exit about 10 miles up road. Pull into exit and pull onto shoulder, car dies. Pop hood to look around, as if I'm going to see something obvious...of course not. Close hood and restart car. To my delighted surprise, car is running smooth and half-power symbol is clear, thank GOD. Pull out tablet with Protools app and connect to OBD port. Error codes aplenty. Most prominent is 2AAF (over 300 occurrences) along with injector cut off and O2 sensor alarms. I thought I got some bad gas but car is running fine at this time, fingers / eyes /toes crossed. Hoping and praying car will make it back to Atlanta the next day. Did my business in Charleston and made it back to Atlanta with no issues. Gave problem some thought. Being original owner with 161,000 miles, I decided to replace electrical fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator...both in gas tank accessible beneath rear seats. As of this posting, I am in Florida with new pump and regulator. The occasional misses and stumbles are gone, car is running fine...knock on wood. No errors codes. Prior to replacement, I checked LPHP and HPFP pressures. I saw LPFP pressure fluctuating from 69 PSI up to 73 PSI, that's a big swing for an electric pump. After LPFP and regulator replacement, LPFP pressure more steady around 72 PSI plus or minus a half pound. Recommendation: if you have over 100,000 miles, replace your electric fuel pump AND fuel regulator...before it leaves you on the side of the road...AT NIGHT. If you have a tool that shows LPFP and HPFP pressures, take a look at them OFTEN. Learn their patterns. Know the LPFP feeds the HPFP. Fluctuations in the LPFP pressure will cause 10X HPFP pressure fluctuations. Hope this post is useful to everyone.

[1and1]

Finally went through the last of my parts for the 1, grabbed pics and such

for sale posts incoming

[mkeiser]

New plates!

[08135i]

Originally Posted by theinfamousdrew

Also while I was out there I pulled off the diverter hoses and capped the intake holes.
Now I divert to atmosphere and get a neat noise...lol
Its entertaining....however it could get old quick...we shall see.

I love the way this car handles now with the H&R sway

Say goodbye to the turbos

[INDPNDT]

Going to post my Advan RZ 19's soon. Also have a NIB M3 front sway bar for the 135/1M, never installed. In Los Angeles.

[tjswarbrick]

Just keeping her in top form.
158,500 miles.
Replaced spark plugs, ignition coils, and air filter.

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