[rhet21]

Ok i have a 2006 alpine white 325i and it has light swirl marks on it and i want to use a buffer but this will be my first time using one and i need advice on what would be the absolute best and easiest one to use. I am listing all of the products that i need help with!

Buffer
Buffing Pads
Polish
Finishing Polish
Sealant
Wax

If i could get some input on what products would be the best for my car i would greatly appreciate it!

[BK]

Really, you just need to read more threads. Here and autopia.org are good places to search.

Here's a good starter kit: Porter Cable 7424, 6" backing plate, 6" counterweight; 2 or 3 each Lake Country 6" pads orange, white, and blue; Menzerna SIP, Menzerna 106FP, Menzerna 85RD; Clay Magic blue clay; clay lube; Zaino Z-2 Pro, Zaino ZFX. Also pick up some halogen work lights on a stand at Home Depot or Lowes or Sears. A mist bottle for Isopropyl alcohol is helpful. Some MF towels for buffing off product and some foam or terry applicators. Some invisible glass for the glass. Some Nevr-Dull or Mother's Chrome Polish for the chrome exhaust.

If you want, replace the PC7424, backing plate, and counterweight with a Flex 3401.

Places like Detailed Image (a sponsor here, so look for specials) have buffer and other detailing packages that may help.

But seriously, to understand what you need and why, you should start by reading as much as possible. Detailing products are probably best bought over time, as you discover what you need and what can help. Then eventually, you'll just want to try new products for new looks and smells.

Check out the sticky for Detailing 101 here on this forum for some excellent advice, too.

[rhet21]

thank you very much for the advice! i have been reading but im still lost! Which do you think would be better the porter cable or the flex?

[rhet21]

Ok so should i use Menzerna SIP with the Lake Country orange light cutting pad for step (1). Then the Menzerna PO106FA Nano Polish with the Lake Country white polishing pad for step (2). Then Menzerna PO85RD Polish with the Lake Country blue or black finishing pad as step (3)

[Jonny550]

Originally Posted by rhet21

Ok so should i use Menzerna SIP with the Lake Country orange light cutting pad for step (1). Then the Menzerna PO106FA Nano Polish with the Lake Country white polishing pad for step (2). Then Menzerna PO85RD Polish with the Lake Country blue or black finishing pad as step (3)

IMHO i talked to the president of MANZERNA and from my own expeirience 3 step paint correction is not necasarry on a light swirl removal. Your proces should be....


1. Wash
2.clay
3. SIP on an orange light cutting pad on speed 6 with a PC
4. Po85rd on a blue finishing pad on speed 6 with a PC
5. Jetseal,Manzerna FMJ or any other sealent
6.The next day after sealent( in order for the sealent to cure and bond to the clearcoat) a coat of dodo juice or a high end wax to ensure an extra 1-2 months of protection .... this step is not a must.




the above process works on about 90% of all the vehicles i have done.

[rhet21]

Originally Posted by Jon335iFL

IMHO i talked to the president of MANZERNA and from my own expeirience 3 step paint correction is not necasarry on a light swirl removal. Your proces should be....


1. Wash
2.clay
3. SIP on an orange light cutting pad on speed 6 with a PC
4. Po85rd on a blue finishing pad on speed 6 with a PC
5. Jetseal,Manzerna FMJ or any other sealent
6.The next day after sealent( in order for the sealent to cure and bond to the clearcoat) a coat of dodo juice or a high end wax to ensure an extra 1-2 months of protection .... this step is not a must.




the above process works on about 90% of all the vehicles i have done.

You said use a Porter Cable Would a Flex Be just as good?

[ucdbiendog]

Read as much of the stickies in this forum as you can. Tons of info there and it's where I got my start. If it is truly just light swirls, I find that I can skip the cutting polish (SIP) and go right to a finishing polish (PO106FF but its been replaced by PO106FA). Just recently i had a few deeper scratches and some touch-up spots and did a localized treatment of wetsanding with a cutting polish (PO83) followed by a full treatment of finishing polish and got very good results (no pics since it started raining as I was applying sealant.... had to rush the car into the garage). Good luck!

Oh and ask George questions in the "ask a professional detailer" thread. He's very knowledgeable and responsive.

[twinturboa51]

Imo the flex is a better option than the pc but it is expensive. you should get a kit that comes with everything you need because your starting from scratch. i would reccomend either the starter kit or the advanced kit from DI. the main differance is the flex over the pc but you also get hiher end products as well. also make sure you read the detailing guide on there, even if you have had experience before. its a great place to start.

[BK]

I agree with the other advice you got here after my initial post. Also, I guess I meant 106FA not 106FP above. In any case, with light swirls, 106FA on a white pad probably will be all you need, at least with a Flex. You can follow with 85RD on a blue, but even that step can be cut out if you want to cut costs because 106FA finishes so well. I suggested SIP and orange pads in addition because even though you say "light swirls," I bet you have some spots that could use the extra cut that you'll notice when you get the halogens. I suggested 85RD and blue pads because it gives the finish that tiny bit of extra pop.

IMO, if you are halfway comfortable with your skill with tools and are willing to spend the extra money, go for the Flex over the PC because it is a better tool for the job. That's not to say anything bad about the PC because it is the longtime gold standard for random orbitals and it works great. It's almost impossible to burn paint with the PC. The Flex has a dual action random orbit and forced rotation, so it doesn't bog down and does more, faster than the PC. Yet it's still very difficult -- but not impossible -- to burn paint with the Flex.

Be aware that this stuff is expensive and a full detail with clay, polish, and seal is a lot of work, maybe more than you realize. If you think you aren't going to really get into detailing, it may be worth it -- and less expensive -- to take the car to a pro detailer and have him polish and seal the car. You can ask here for recommended detailers in your area. But if you are the kind of person who enjoys seeing the results of your labor, there's nothing more satisfying than doing it yourself.

[Jonny550]

Pc pros = for new people with less expeirience ..creats the least amount of heat of all buffers in order to not burn paint

PC cons= takes longer then rotary

FLEX pros= for a professional or someone who knows how to use it very well . Cuts paint a lil deeper for more serious paint imperfections ( not what you need).

FLEX cons= going to fast would make swirls worst and cause hazing ....will burn through the paint if used incorrectly.





dont use a flex until you have more expireince my suggestion is to go with the PC much easier to use and no risk.

[Chris J]

I would get a PC ..its less then half the price plus it will work fine for what you have. I would not use it on speed level 6 however as it gets very unstable and vibrates a ton. This speed would be way to fast for someone just starting out. I have been using one for years and I still dont like anything above level 5.