BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      04-03-2014, 07:07 PM   #1
jcoop269
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128i SPARK PLUG CHANGEOUT

OK, now I know the 128 just doesn't get the love that the 135 does sometimes when it comes to maintaining simply because it doesn't require everything quite as often but that doesn't mean us 128 owners aren't just as eager to do thing as often just for peace of mind. Now, having said my peace, where are all of the 128i spark plug change DIY's?!?!?!?!?! I have searched this forum and Google and all i see are 135 DIY's....that's great, I know all about how the 135 requires a thin wall socket and don't use anything but OEM blah blah blah but again, us 128er owners need some help! If you have changed them out, I'm sure it's simple and I'm sure I could do without the DIY but I am curious about recommended torque and other small details I may not know about. Please help.
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      04-03-2014, 07:14 PM   #2
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Sounds like you've just volunteered to make a 128i spark plug DIY.

As for the torque rating for the spark plugs... look on the bmw box of the spark plugs(another reason to buy them from a dealer). It should be 23Nm.


n52 Spark Plug Change
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635673

135i Spark Plug replacement DIY...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602804

DIY-Changing spark plugs on e90 330i
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174217
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      04-03-2014, 08:18 PM   #3
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It's rather self explanatory. Take off all the misc plastics stuff that's in the way, take the coil pack off, unscrew spark plug with a couple extensions. I didn't need any special tools, a normal spark plug wrench worked fine and didn't have any fitment issues.

I changed mine at 50K miles and will probably continue to do so at that interval.
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      04-03-2014, 11:21 PM   #4
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Question do they make 1 or 2 steps colder plugs for the n52? I totally forgot I'm going to have to run cooler plugs when I start using the nosssssssssss lol
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      04-03-2014, 11:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 631twentyeighteye View Post
It's rather self explanatory. Take off all the misc plastics stuff that's in the way, take the coil pack off, unscrew spark plug with a couple extensions. I didn't need any special tools, a normal spark plug wrench worked fine and didn't have any fitment issues.

I changed mine at 50K miles and will probably continue to do so at that interval.
There are a few issues, and at least one can be hard to deal with.

Spark plug cavities tend to attract dirt. Examine the area with a light. If you see dirt, it's a good idea to blow the area out with compressed air immediately before removing the plugs.

Plugs are like oil, everyone has an opinion on the "best". This interacts with the tough issue.

To antiseize or not to antiseize. The tough part is that the required torque varies a great deal depending on whether or not it's used. The spark plug box may have a torque, but is it wet or dry?

In the good old days the answer for a steel threaded plug in an aluminum head was clear - antiseize. These days it's often not to be used. There are a lot of plugs are plated with something that does not require (and maybe doesn't like) antiseize. If the manufacturer specs such a plug, and/or wants it installed dry; if you use antiseize and the recommended (dry) torque, you will vastly overtighten the plug, maybe even cause a really expensive problem.

The issue (and the dirt thing) is enough for me to go with the manufacturers recommended change interval, which is often 100K miles these days. I have not a clue what it is for a 128i.

Last edited by 128Convertibleguy; 04-03-2014 at 11:48 PM..
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      04-04-2014, 12:28 AM   #6
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it's same as the 135i diy video. just follow these instructions. I went with NGK LASER IRIDIUM RESISTOR (Part Number: 739 06028 132) and I'm happy with them. (100% stock engine)
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      04-04-2014, 07:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 128Convertibleguy View Post
There are a few issues, and at least one can be hard to deal with.

Spark plug cavities tend to attract dirt. Examine the area with a light. If you see dirt, it's a good idea to blow the area out with compressed air immediately before removing the plugs.

Plugs are like oil, everyone has an opinion on the "best". This interacts with the tough issue.

To antiseize or not to antiseize. The tough part is that the required torque varies a great deal depending on whether or not it's used. The spark plug box may have a torque, but is it wet or dry?

In the good old days the answer for a steel threaded plug in an aluminum head was clear - antiseize. These days it's often not to be used. There are a lot of plugs are plated with something that does not require (and maybe doesn't like) antiseize. If the manufacturer specs such a plug, and/or wants it installed dry; if you use antiseize and the recommended (dry) torque, you will vastly overtighten the plug, maybe even cause a really expensive problem.

The issue (and the dirt thing) is enough for me to go with the manufacturers recommended change interval, which is often 100K miles these days. I have not a clue what it is for a 128i.

My plug cavities were pretty spotless clean, so i wouldn't worry about that. The coil packs seal them off quite well.

I used OEM plugs that i ordered from ECS tuning. A lot of people try to say that these cause issues(bosch) but they worked perfectly fine for me and look exactly like the bosch plugs that came out.

I didn't use any antiseize and i never do on spark plugs. I didn't use a torque wrench i just tighten to what feels reasonable without stripping out the threads.

I've had no issues with my plugs or coil packs(changed all 6 of both at the same time) and it eliminated the misfire i was having on cylinder 3.
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      04-04-2014, 08:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SayHack View Post
Very informative video.

One question: What is that sensor near the passenger side cover that he unplugged during disassembly at 4:20?
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      04-04-2014, 11:45 AM   #9
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As for the questions in this thread. Use OE sparkplugs, get a small/accurate torque wrench for the job, do not use antiseize.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw1racer View Post
Very informative video.

One question: What is that sensor near the passenger side cover that he unplugged during disassembly at 4:20?
I would guess either the ambient air temp or auto recirc sensor for the CC.
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      04-04-2014, 12:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw1racer View Post
Very informative video.

One question: What is that sensor near the passenger side cover that he unplugged during disassembly at 4:20?
Very! I'll be able to do this myself now.

Thanks!
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      04-04-2014, 01:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
As for the questions in this thread. Use OE sparkplugs, get a small/accurate torque wrench for the job, do not use antiseize.
Does anyone have a link or the P#'s to the OE spark plugs? I forget which one is which, ie NGK/Bosch.
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      04-04-2014, 07:56 PM   #12
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Ah, think I found them online. I'm just confused as to which one is OE, and I'm not taking e90post's word for it.
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      04-04-2014, 08:03 PM   #13
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I just went with Bosch's from ECStuning. They looks identical to the Bosch that came out of my motor. Strangely i had 3 NGK's and 3 Bosch's in mine. Clearly the first owner was less than adequate in the maintenance department.
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      04-04-2014, 08:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daft Auto View Post
Does anyone have a link or the P#'s to the OE spark plugs? I forget which one is which, ie NGK/Bosch.

N52, NGK LZFR6AP11GS, bmw p/n 12120037663

(always run a parts search using your VIN)...
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...17&hg=12&fg=05
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      04-04-2014, 08:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
N52, NGK LZFR6AP11GS, bmw p/n 12120037663

(always run a parts search using your VIN)...
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...17&hg=12&fg=05
I done goofed, forgot about realoem.

Thanks Dack and 631twentyeighteye!
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      04-04-2014, 10:06 PM   #16
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I appreciate all of the responses. I suppose I could do a DIY myself...I don't really need one, it really just comes down to a few of the details I was looking for but I've pretty much had them all answered thus far.....one last thing though, I have noticed this several times but it appears the Genuine BMW OEM plugs for the 128i through 11/2009 production are different and substantially more expensive than the Genuine BMW OEM plugs for the 128i from 12/2009 production. What is the reason for this??? Any ideas? Is there a difference in engine parts that requires a more expensive plug? Take a look at the BavAuto site and when searching for plugs for the 128i 2010, I get 4 results and options 1 and 3 are both Genuine BMW OEM NGK plugs, the ones for through 11/2009 are 22.95 apiece and then the genuines for from 12/2009 production are 10.95 each......VERY STRANGE.
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      04-05-2014, 01:16 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcoop269 View Post
I appreciate all of the responses. I suppose I could do a DIY myself...I don't really need one, it really just comes down to a few of the details I was looking for but I've pretty much had them all answered thus far.....one last thing though, I have noticed this several times but it appears the Genuine BMW OEM plugs for the 128i through 11/2009 production are different and substantially more expensive than the Genuine BMW OEM plugs for the 128i from 12/2009 production. What is the reason for this??? Any ideas? Is there a difference in engine parts that requires a more expensive plug? Take a look at the BavAuto site and when searching for plugs for the 128i 2010, I get 4 results and options 1 and 3 are both Genuine BMW OEM NGK plugs, the ones for through 11/2009 are 22.95 apiece and then the genuines for from 12/2009 production are 10.95 each......VERY STRANGE.

Its probably the spark plug material that's different. ? The plugs for the 128i have to last 100K miles for BMW to pass the federal emission warranty. So I bet they changed the plug material. Personally I would never run plugs that long. I would just buy some silver plugs and be done with it. Although a lot of guys like those iridium plugs these days. Another reason why I would change plugs sooner is so they don't weld themselves onto the head. And even though the plugs would probably last 100K miles, I bet the engine would feel stronger with fresh plugs at say at 40K miles.

A $22 plug price doesn't shock me. I guess you have never seen Porsche prices for spark plugs! I remember that the plugs for an aircooled 911 Turbo costs $45 each! Made from real platinum.
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      Yesterday, 11:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SayHack View Post
it's same as the 135i diy video. just follow these instructions. I went with NGK LASER IRIDIUM RESISTOR (Part Number: 739 06028 132) and I'm happy with them. (100% stock engine)
Looking at the video, I find it particularly odd that the wiring to each coil pack is a group of loose wires. I don't understand why each cylinder's wire bundle isn't placed in a tidy sleeve or jacket of some sort. Rather sloppy, considering all other wiring in the engine compartment is neatly bundled together.
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      Today, 11:28 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw1racer View Post
Looking at the video, I find it particularly odd that the wiring to each coil pack is a group of loose wires. I don't understand why each cylinder's wire bundle isn't placed in a tidy sleeve or jacket of some sort. Rather sloppy, considering all other wiring in the engine compartment is neatly bundled together.
I feel you.

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