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02-02-2017, 05:17 PM | #1 |
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Need help DIY replace valve cover gasket
Anyone has link or instruction manual to replace the valve cover gasket? I want to do it myself but idk how tedious the work is. Thanks in advance!
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02-17-2017, 12:31 PM | #2 |
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I'm starting mine, so hoping someone will chime in. Thanks
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2008 135i Barely running. Work in progress. |
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02-17-2017, 12:49 PM | #4 |
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ray-ray89
IN10SS I've not done one, but I don't really think it would be much harder than changing one's spark plugs. The only sticking point might be IF you have to pull/remove the injectors or not. I think you would only need to remove the fuel injector feed lines(and maybe replace a crush ring o-ring inside those lines. ? ) Take a look at my spark plug DIY... 135i Spark Plug replacement DIY... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602804 PS: Take some pics and make a DIY for use guys(!) IF you do this job.
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02-17-2017, 12:55 PM | #5 | |
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02-17-2017, 01:36 PM | #6 |
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Search on you tube. Take a look ahead of time and pick one that you can follow easily. I did spark plugs and eccentric sensor while I was in there. I also used a little gasket sealer on the vc gasket. Take your time and good luck.
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02-17-2017, 01:44 PM | #7 | |
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BMW says not to use silicone sealant but I would use just a smidge on the edges of the camshaft half moons and maybe on the four corners of the VCG. Actually loctite #518 is great for this bc it seals up to 4mm gaps.
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02-17-2017, 06:46 PM | #9 |
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Ok gotcha. I had never heard of this sensor before. I just Google'd it and found this DIY over on the e90forum...
Eccentric Shaft Sensor Replacement http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=697252 Btw... ray-ray89 Here is a DIY on How to change the N54 valve cover/gasket... DIY E90 N54 Valve Cover Gasket http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=775317
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02-17-2017, 06:51 PM | #10 |
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I did this on my 135i about a month/two months ago. I also replaced the spark plugs at the same time. There's a DIY on here somewhere that I followed...
Ah.. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=775317
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02-24-2017, 10:05 AM | #11 | |
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03-23-2017, 08:00 PM | #12 |
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ray-ray89 So how did your valve cover turn out? Any update ???
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03-23-2017, 08:02 PM | #13 |
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03-28-2017, 09:39 PM | #14 |
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I am literally shoulder-deep in mine right now. I'm gonna tell you now, this isn't for the faint-of-heart. The theory itself isn't the issue, putting it into practice is. Be prepared for scraped knuckles and a lot of swearing.
I do have a question, how did you get the valve cover to come out? I've got it all unbolted, and it's loose, just can't get the clearance to get it out. Thought about removing the cross-bar, but not sure how the other end is attached? I'm tired of messing with it for the night. I'm replacing the gasket and the valvetronic gasket as well. Also need to figure out how to replace the breather tube. The other ends are underneath the intake manifold.
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03-30-2017, 07:53 AM | #15 |
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Ok.. Figured it out. For anyone who has never done this, but needs to - Some tips:
You will need to remove the stabilizer bar going from the cowling to the strut tower, and also remove the cover to the white electrical interconnect box. I also used a bungy cord to hold the cabling up that crosses over the engine. Once off, look for the breather caps that may fall off (this breather cap). The walkthrough on Pelican Parts says to Crazy Glue that back on, but I couldn't get the glue to hold. Ended up using JB Weld. Worked like a charm. I don't want that coming back off inside my valve train! I did the valvetronic gasket and eccentric solenoid gasket while I was at it. I don't want to have to go back in there. Not done yet, but I used this guide to get it done: Pelican Parts e90 Guide I hope this helps someone!!
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05-15-2017, 06:56 AM | #16 | |
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Do you think the N52 will be much different? I have to do this asap as I am losing a half quart every 1500 miles or less. I'd rather not pay someone way more than it should cost to do something I'm positive can't be that difficult.
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05-16-2017, 12:03 PM | #17 | |
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Dack
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07-20-2017, 11:22 AM | #18 |
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It's not difficult, from the sense that it requires special tools, or training.. It's just more of a tedious pain in the ass. One suggestion someone had made - Disconnect the cables that cross the engine from the headers on the passenger side. It'll give the clearance needed to remove the cover. I also had to trim a tab to get the cover back on.
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12-22-2017, 05:23 AM | #21 |
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I just replaced my valve cover, gasket and both gaskets for oil filter housing. Have a tiny amount of oil in the small metal shield that sits directly below the boost solenoids after valve cover replacement. Really hope this is residual oil from previous leak.
One thing that messed me up is when you search torque sequence for the 30+ bolts you get the same guys image posted and shared again and again online. As I am told this is incorrect and should start from the middle before tightening outside bolts. Do hope this hasn't caused valve cover not to seat correctly would hate to redo. So if you follow this it should be done in reverse #1 would be the last bolt you tighten. |
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01-14-2018, 02:06 PM | #22 |
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I recently changed the gasket and valve cover and indeed did follow this guy's sequence starting at the corners then the middle and back out to the corners.
Did them all snug, then 5#s then 7.5#s. The PIA passenger rear 3 around the corner ended up somewhere between 5 and 7.5 but so far no more leaks. I also used Hondabond in the gasket well on the VC and left to cure overnight, then a thin layer on the gasket touching the head. I guess time will tell :/ |
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