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      10-25-2011, 12:13 PM   #1
Dackelone
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Arrow 135i Spark Plug replacement DIY...

Spark Plug replacemnt on my 135i N54...


Spark plug socket - Hazet #4766-2
(14mm 12pt 3/8 drive) 25 euros

3/8 drive extension 30cm long
Torque wrench (low strength) 23 NM(!)
Hex wrench 5 mm
Magnetic telescopic pickup
8mm drive (cowl cover)

6 spark plugs BMW 12 12 0 037 244
BOSCH ZGR6STE2


The spark plugs should be changed every 45K miles. IF your car is still under warranty BMW NA will change them for you. I live in Germany though, and here we must pay for ALL services. Nothing is free in Germany, except the autobahns(at least for now)!! lol

I decided to buy my spark plugs from BMW, mainly because I have read that some members have had misfire issues with equivalent BOSCH plugs. The spark plugs say BMW/BOSCH on them. BMW list price is 17 euros each, I paid 13 euros from my friends at my BMW Zentrum.

The spark plugs need to be torque to 23Nm. I bought a low spec 3/8’s torque wrench from Gedore: 5 – 50Nm specs. Install them dry without any anti seize. Also install them with a cold engine.

Here are my DIY photos…


Btw... I found this DIY over on the e90 post very helpfull...

335i - change spark plugs after 16000 miles

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142679




Open hood,
Remove: pollen micro filter (6 x 8mm bolts)
Remove 2 x 8mm bolts (one in each corner of the black metal tray that the pollen filter sits in.
Remove sensor(s) on each corner of tray.
Now pull out the tray - front part raises - rear unclips out of slot

Remove 4 x 5mm allen (chease head/impulse) bolts on engine valave cover.
The left rear bolt is tricky to get access too. Use a long 1/4 inch ratchet extension. Also use a telescopic magnetic to "catch" the bolt from falling into the engine inner bowls.

Now you can unclip the coil pack (do one at a time!) Gentley pry up on the top of the coil pack to release the electrical connection.

Then I used a short 1/2" extension to pull straight up gently and SLOWLY. You don't want to break a coil pack!

Then use your special 14mm 12point spark plug socket to unscrew the plugs. ONE at a time. Then install a new plug (dry no - anti seize), hand tighten then use your torque wrench set to 23Nm.

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use your megnetic pick up tool to catch the 5mm allen bolt incase it comes off of your 1/4 ratchet drive.
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use a short 1/2 drive ratchet extension to pull the coil pack(s) STRAIGH UP with force. SLOWLY and gently pull them straight up!
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Last edited by Dackelone; 10-26-2011 at 07:24 AM.
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      10-25-2011, 12:14 PM   #2
Dackelone
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more...

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coil packs part number...
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UPDATE: Cobb has made this cool video showing you basically how to change your plugs & coils...


Last edited by Dackelone; 10-26-2011 at 07:29 AM.
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      10-25-2011, 05:27 PM   #3
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Thanks
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      10-25-2011, 07:33 PM   #4
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Thanks for the comprehensive write up Dackel. You're an asset to the forum

I'll be using this in a couple of months time
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      10-26-2011, 02:09 AM   #5
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How many km's you had on your sparks?
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      10-26-2011, 07:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
How many km's you had on your sparks?
65K km's


BMW AG says to change the spark plugs at 67K kms and then every 60K kms. Here is a decall/label from a 335i with the PPK...

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      10-26-2011, 07:25 AM   #7
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Great write up!
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      10-31-2011, 03:23 PM   #8
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Why no anti-seize? I've used it on all cars when I've changed plugs. I would hate for one to seize up and break when trying to remove it....
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      10-31-2011, 03:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james33 View Post
Why no anti-seize? I've used it on all cars when I've changed plugs. I would hate for one to seize up and break when trying to remove it....
BMW AG says to put them in with out any anti-seize. I think that is bc of conduction. I know everyone in the states uses anti-seize... but over here no one uses it. I asked my guys at the BMW dealership and a few indi shops. No one uses anti-seize.

I put my new plugs in dry (w/o anti-seize). I can sleep at night just fine.
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      11-02-2011, 06:53 AM   #10
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nice job
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      11-02-2011, 07:38 AM   #11
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Good job on write up - Your spark plugged looked nice for 65k.
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      11-02-2011, 11:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Good job on write up - Your spark plugged looked nice for 65k.

Thanks. Btw... 65K kms = 40K miles
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      11-04-2011, 10:06 AM   #13
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Nice write up.
OP, do you think they have to be changed sooner than 40,000 miles if one tracks the car lets say 8-10 times a year?
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      11-04-2011, 11:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 09 AND135I 11 View Post
Nice write up.
OP, do you think they have to be changed sooner than 40,000 miles if one tracks the car lets say 8-10 times a year?

I think changing the plugs every 40K miles is fine. Even with a tune or hard use. I would also make sure your air filter is clean and no sand or rocks in the filter housing.


135i air filter replacement DIY...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...air+filter+diy


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      11-06-2011, 10:46 PM   #15
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Nice write up....will be changing mine if BMW does not cover it under maintenance next year.
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      11-07-2011, 05:50 AM   #16
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Great step by step Dackelone.. I've learnt so much about my 135i from you, this is just another to add to the list.. Cheers!!
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      01-23-2012, 07:32 PM   #17
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      02-01-2012, 12:58 AM   #18
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amazing thread thanks
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      02-05-2012, 12:04 PM   #19
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Thanks for the excellent write-up, I have 4 of 6 done, and I have a question for those of you that have done this. What did you guys do with the little bit of metal flakes/dirt thats down in the channel after you remove the old plug but before you put in the new one?

It would be very difficult to photograph so that's why I'm not posting a picture, but I worry that it might affect the seal of the spark plug washer to the head? My vacuum isn't narrow enough to get down there, but I could rig something up. Did you guys worry about it? I haven't done anything about it, but I'm starting to question if I should have.

I also found that a mouse had been chewing on one of my coil wires, which is ridiculous because this car is a daily driver.

Thanks for your help!
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      02-05-2012, 02:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cedavis34 View Post
Thanks for the excellent write-up, I have 4 of 6 done, and I have a question for those of you that have done this. What did you guys do with the little bit of metal flakes/dirt thats down in the channel after you remove the old plug but before you put in the new one?

It would be very difficult to photograph so that's why I'm not posting a picture, but I worry that it might affect the seal of the spark plug washer to the head? My vacuum isn't narrow enough to get down there, but I could rig something up. Did you guys worry about it? I haven't done anything about it, but I'm starting to question if I should have.

I also found that a mouse had been chewing on one of my coil wires, which is ridiculous because this car is a daily driver.

Thanks for your help!
I did not worry about it because I did not have much "crud' down there in the holes on my car. I think if I did... yea... I would jurry rig something up with a vacuum cleaner. Maybe take a small paper tube or plastic tube from a hardware store. I think most techs just jam new plugs in the car without giving this a second thought. You could always use some compressed air shot down the holes to remove the "crud".


As for your mouse damage... be carefull, espcially under the engine(belly pan) where the wires for the O2 sensor and oil level sensors are. These rodents can do major damage. The Germans hang toilet bowl cleaners under the engine hood or even have these electronic boxes that "chirp" high freq that drive these chewing annimals away.
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      02-05-2012, 02:42 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I did not worry about it because I did not have much "crud' down there in the holes on my car. I think if I did... yea... I would jurry rig something up with a vacuum cleaner. Maybe take a small paper tube or plastic tube from a hardware store. I think most techs just jam new plugs in the car without giving this a second thought. You could always use some compressed air shot down the holes to remove the "crud".


As for your mouse damage... be carefull, espcially under the engine(belly pan) where the wires for the O2 sensor and oil level sensors are. These rodents can do major damage. The Germans hang toilet bowl cleaners under the engine hood or even have these electronic boxes that "chirp" high freq that drive these chewing annimals away.
I ended up not doing much about the crud, for number 4 I used the house vac because it had a smaller nozzle, and it appeared to get some of it, but not all. Number 5 had a smaller amount, so I gave it a blast from my lungs, and number 6 had even fewer still, so I did nothing.

I fired the car up without the engine cover on, and I can't believe how loud the engine was without that cover and the associated foam. I build Hondas for a living, and our little 4's do not have any sound deadening like that around the engine, and they do not make anywhere near that amount of noise. I know I'm talking about completely different ends of the spectrum for engines, but wow. For it's part, the foam does a great job blocking the noise.

I need to try and find the pin removal tool for our coils so I can pull the wires and get some heat shrink around them. One wire is kind of bad, the rest just have little grooves. I tried cutting spirals into the heat shrink, but when heated they just unraveled. I think they'll be ok for the time being, because I think the damage probably happened two years ago when I lived next to a cornfield and drove my S2000 a lot more frequently. I've never seen any mouse droppings at my new house, so my guess is it's been like that for 2 years. That's at least what I'll tell myself so I don't worry too much.

Thanks again for the write-up. It worked great!

Now it's time to go downtown for the Super Bowl. Go Giants!
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      02-05-2012, 03:10 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cedavis34 View Post
I fired the car up without the engine cover on, and I can't believe how loud the engine was without that cover and the associated foam. I build Hondas for a living, and our little 4's do not have any sound deadening like that around the engine, and they do not make anywhere near that amount of noise. I know I'm talking about completely different ends of the spectrum for engines, but wow. For it's part, the foam does a great job blocking the noise.

I did the exact same thing and had the same reaction to the loud ticking noises. I guess it is because our engines are direct injection while most engines are not. Without that foam pad the noise is so much louder! lol


Btw... I think AMP probably makes the electrical pin(out) tool you are looking for. But even SnapOn or the like should make a compatible pin removal tool.
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