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07-25-2012, 10:43 PM | #1 |
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What oil do you guys run?
Just curious, after a spontaneous oil research session for a few hours.. Several brands came up as the 'best' in oils more so than others, but it's so hard to find real info..
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07-25-2012, 10:51 PM | #2 |
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Per the manufacturer: http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Conte...ngineOils.aspx
I just bought a case of Mobil 1... It was on sale.
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07-26-2012, 02:16 AM | #3 |
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So 1 for oem lol
I'm just wanting the best/one of the best oils i can find, something much better than oem (google hasnt had much good to say about mobil 1 lol) |
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07-26-2012, 06:25 AM | #5 |
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Best bet is to buy an oil change kit from one of the BMW dealer/venders on 1addicts.
Some more info here on which oil to use... LL-01 or LL-04 http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...1#post12392966
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07-26-2012, 08:08 AM | #6 |
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For a "best oil" discussion you might want to google "bob the oil guy", at least I think that is the website. A subject that gets a lot of discussion is the degree to which an oil is synthetic. It seems that some oil labeled synthetic is more purified "dino" oil - came out of the ground. Staying consistent with bmw's recommendations seems wise. I have used BMW so far.
The guy who writes the maintenance info for the Roundel uses Red Line. I've used their transmission and rear end fluid but not oil. They have some interesting information on their website. If I wanted to do repeated oil analyses to determine how long I can really run the oil I might try out some "better" oils. When this becomes my responsibility next year, I plan to just change it every 5000 miles like I do on my SUV. It is probably too often but I don't see what that will hurt (except my wallet). If I see a way to use an oil bmw is OK with and save money I might consider it but the oil change kits are awfully convenient. Are your engines taking 7 quarts? I put 6 in my first oil change and found the level at the maximum. I did the same on my second and only other change so far. Jim
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07-26-2012, 04:54 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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07-26-2012, 05:24 PM | #8 | ||
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better protection, more stable compound (so consistent protection for the life of the oil) *slightly* more power potentially as tested by many people over many oils, and better oil in general
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and if you do some research on it anyway, just about all good base IV/V (fully synthetic) oils are good for 10-15k MILE service intervals no worries, some even claim safe to 40,000km if you want to push it (yeah nah haha), just they don't want to pay for the certification Quote:
i mean, if you're doing 30,000 highway kilometers, sure, the oil's going to be pretty fine, i mean, you're still kinda an idiot for not just changing your oil, it's not expensive, and it keeps your motor running smoothly and prevents potential damage, but it's at a stable temperature and flowing smoothly, but even 15-20,000 city? the air filters will be full of scum, the oil will be dsgusting because it doesn't get to a nice stable temperature.. etc. of course i'm certain BMW recommended oils will be fine for the car, but what's wrong with wanting something *better*/the best? at current rates i'll be doing between 6000 and 10,000km every 6 months (realistically way less than 10,000), plus a couple of track days and runs at the strip, so make that 8000-12,000 'effective' kilometers to be safe, and i'm still easily able to run really whatever oil i want lol (except for straight race oils with no detergents...) on the 'some synth are dino oil' yeah i heard that some castrol edge and mobil 1 are labelled as 'synthetic' but are actually more refined base III oils, which aren't true synthetics and shouldn't really be used if you care about your car |
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08-09-2012, 01:17 AM | #10 |
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Stuck with Castrol haven't used anything else. Run Mobil 1 on other cars, basically running manufacturers' suggested oils.
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08-09-2012, 03:29 AM | #11 |
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that's not physically possible, for the most part, oil IS IN FACT just oil, as in, if they are both same base stock and both identical viscosities, an engine will run on either of them, one may clean slightly better, one may produce a tiny bit more horsepower etc...
you could put canola oil and it'd do just the same as any other car... run until it burns :P |
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08-09-2012, 03:12 PM | #12 |
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so far OEM only, next time not sure
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08-24-2012, 12:19 PM | #13 |
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08-25-2012, 05:11 AM | #15 |
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i'm actually tossing up between purple and redline. though i've heard purple sometimes breaks down WAY faster than you want, even less than 5000km, as a race oil; :/
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08-27-2012, 05:42 PM | #17 |
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i've decided on redline actually, 5w30 sounds sensible, the most i'll be doing around a track is street sprint timeattack style, which is (i believe) 5 laps, 3 of which are hot, so 5w40 would be thicker than i need. 99% of the rest of my driving will be highway to and from work/elsewhere
at $200 for the 2 gallons shipped though, not cheap haa (still a better deal than your 20 euros/litre for oem!!) |
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09-18-2012, 02:37 PM | #19 |
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I was curious why these guys (Kaizen Tuning) were putting together a Motul oil change kit for $70 (which I would guess is for local sale only, no shipping):
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=10 I used Mobil 1 in my E36/5 (which came with conventional oil). Used BMW synthetic with my E46s while under warranty (Royal Purple after warranty since that was what my independent shop used). My 135 is still under warranty, and it's only been to the dealer for service. Not sure what I'll run post warranty (and I'll probably do them myself). I plan on continuing used oil analysis on all my oil changes. Last edited by jkoral; 09-18-2012 at 02:38 PM.. Reason: fixed link |
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