6MT 128i tips?

[nunka]

Hello, friendly friends.

I picked up my new 6MT 128i last week. My first BMW! My first manual! I'm a crazy person! After a couple hundred miles, it feels like I'm beginning to tame this beast (the notchy shift gates were particularly difficult to acclimate to, having learned the basics in a friend's old Mazda RX8). But I have no delusions of grandeur... I'm a novice, through and through.

So, before I leave the break-in period and really push this machine, I want to be sure I'm developing the right habits. I'd also like to see if anyone here has 128i-specific pointers for city driving and stop-and-go traffic - the two situations I'm most worried about, due to my questionable takeoff skills. How the hell does one even drive this car at low speeds? Is it ever okay to feather the clutch? When is engine braking appropriate? And so on and so forth.

Any tips from the (relative) experts would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Dackelone]

First congrats on your new 1er. You might be interested to read these threads.

CDV Delete/Replacement DIY
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209440

CDV delete... night and day...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=473094


You might also like installing the BMW Performance SSK...

Performance short shifter
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=484069

[Bimmer-Bob]

Originally Posted by nunka

Hello, friendly friends.

I picked up my new 6MT 128i last week. My first BMW! My first manual! I'm a crazy person! After a couple hundred miles, it feels like I'm beginning to tame this beast (the notchy shift gates were particularly difficult to acclimate to, having learned the basics in a friend's old Mazda RX8). But I have no delusions of grandeur... I'm a novice, through and through.

So, before I leave the break-in period and really push this machine, I want to be sure I'm developing the right habits. I'd also like to see if anyone here has 128i-specific pointers for city driving and stop-and-go traffic - the two situations I'm most worried about, due to my questionable takeoff skills. How the hell does one even drive this car at low speeds? Is it ever okay to feather the clutch? When is engine braking appropriate? And so on and so forth.

Any tips from the (relative) experts would be appreciated. Thanks!

Join your local BMWCCA or SCCA chapter (or both!) and look into doing some auto crosses or track days (or both!). You won't be sorry. Even if you don't get totally hooked (unlikely), you'll learn a ton about basic car control, and what it feels like to really pouch your car (safely). Good luck.

[nunka]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

First congrats on your new 1er. You might be interested to read these threads.

CDV Delete/Replacement DIY
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209440

CDV delete... night and day...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=473094

I've heard very mixed opinions on the CDV delete. Some say it's barely noticeable. Others say it's a night and day difference and they wish they'd done it at mile 1. Do you think I, as a novice, would really notice much of a change here?

[Dackelone]

...the CDV delete is a night and day difference! I would change yours out.

[631twentyeighteye]

CDV+ extended clutch stop are mandatory, and the short shift kit only enhances it further. You'll notice with the CDV gone that your shifts will become much smoother.

Once you're moving in 1st there's really no need to feather the clutch, but if your in traffic feathering the clutch is fine. I engine brake whenever i can since it saves gas and I'd recommend learning how to rev match once you are comfortable enough to add onto your manual driving skills.

Never downshift to 1st when you're moving unless you are going less than 5mph and are forced to(IE: traffic). I've found that you can use 2nd gear in traffic from 10mph or so and up, no need to downshift unless you're really moving slow or you're coming to a stop. Never skip gears when downshifting, IE 5-4-3-2-1, NOT, 5-3-1 or something weird like that.

There's threads all over here that will help with learning to drive an MT car.

[dm135is]

Take a road trip when you can, preferably on some twisty hilly roads, by yourself, with your SO, or a good car friend. This will help you learn the car and bond with it. I'm a long-time BMW owner and am really starting to bond and become one with my 135i after 9K+ miles. I recommend the CDV delete and clutch stop (I have the PickyEater one), haven't tried or felt the need for a SSK though I respect other's positive opinions of them. Give the car time, BMWs traditionally bond with you given half a chance and the 1er is a traditional BMW in the best (and perhaps passing) sense. Try to worry a little less, be patient, and simply use and enjoy your car - it's got the right DNA to show you the moves if you listen!

[nunka]

Originally Posted by 631twentyeighteye

Once you're moving in 1st there's really no need to feather the clutch, but if your in traffic feathering the clutch is fine. I engine brake whenever i can since it saves gas and I'd recommend learning how to rev match once you are comfortable enough to add onto your manual driving skills.

Never downshift to 1st when you're moving unless you are going less than 5mph and are forced to(IE: traffic). I've found that you can use 2nd gear in traffic from 10mph or so and up, no need to downshift unless you're really moving slow or you're coming to a stop. Never skip gears when downshifting, IE 5-4-3-2-1, NOT, 5-3-1 or something weird like that.

Thanks. These are some very practical tips.

As for the CDV delete/replace, has anyone run into warranty grief after doing this?

[631twentyeighteye]

As long as you replace the stock CDV with one that has the pinhole stop removed, they'll never notice the difference. Look up the CDV delete thread for what i mean by pinhole stop, it's sorta hard to explain without pictures.

[dm135is]

^^^^^
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=97

Your dealer probably won't like the CDV delete, if he knows about it, which he probably won't, because you can replace the stock lock valve with a cdv delete lock valve which is indistinguishable unless removed, and your clutch and tranny are likely to last well past the warranty period (150K-200K miles or more) unless you really drive like ass, which you probably won't.

[dorkdog]

Originally Posted by 631twentyeighteye

Never skip gears when downshifting, IE 5-4-3-2-1, NOT, 5-3-1 or something weird like that.

Why? As long as you rev match what's the issue with this? I do it all the time...

[IEDEI]

I didn't do the CDV delay and love the shifter. I see no need to mess with perfection! it's not required by any means

[631twentyeighteye]

Originally Posted by dorkdog

Why? As long as you rev match what's the issue with this? I do it all the time...

From what i've read it causes unnecessary wear on the synchro's. I rev match down shift each gear for the peace of mind, plus its more fun.

[nunka]

Originally Posted by IEDEI

I didn't do the CDV delay and love the shifter. I see no need to mess with perfection! it's not required by any means

I've had no issues shifting into the higher gears - all smooth as silk. But first and second are definitely jerky. I'm just not sure how much of that is my low skill level and how much is the CDV.

[Bimmer-Bob]

There's nothing wrong with skipping shifts in either direction, so long as your rev matching appropriately.

As far as the CDV delete, I think it's nice, but I think most people overstate the difference. I still think there is a noticeable lag shifting into 1st and 2nd gear. YMMV.

[Pyrat 2]

Originally Posted by nunka

I've had no issues shifting into the higher gears - all smooth as silk. But first and second are definitely jerky. I'm just not sure how much of that is my low skill level and how much is the CDV.

The 1 2 shift is the hardest because those two gear ratios are spread more than the rest. You'll get better with more practice but that shift will always be the hardest to perfect.

[dorkdog]

As a CDV delete, I can tell you that with that restrictor valve it's anyone's guess as to when it's 'OK' to shift. Without it, the clutch works normally and at your command, not when the pressure *finally* builds.

The CDV I believe is actually designed for folks in your predicament; new to MT, and in the 135 I can see the potential for rear end stress at the hands (and feet) of a novice, but not so much in the 128.

The CDV is designed to keep you from popping the clutch, delivering all that torque to the rear end with a huge slew rate. The other end though is that the CDV works in both directions - where the clutch is not necessarily 'in' when the pedal says it is. The onset of clutch engagement and disengagement becomes vague - like a slope as opposed to a wall. Makes it difficult to learn when you can't count on consistency from the mechanical interface.

Imagine if a similar delay were placed in the steering system - even with the immediate feedback of vision, there would be a series of overcorrections and stress on the system overall, to the benefit of the general health of the steering system, followed by the day-to-day unpredictability of a damped system being combined with undamped reflexes.

My vote is to lose the CDV and get on with the joy of wearing a 1 series. If you're concerned about warranty, get one of the ones that has the pinhole (yes, for all that pedal motion the fluid flows thru a friggin PINHOLE!) removed like others have said. I didn't bother with that; I figured if I had an issue I'd just pop it back in - takes 15 min w/coffee LOL

And FWIW even many folks like me, driving MT since 1974, find the CDV annoying at the very least. I waited until after a year of ownership to delete mine (I went 'commando' - it's totally gone - no valve at all!)

I have the clutch stop, the SSK and the CDV delete and my car is COMPLETELY different from when I picked it up from the dealer, bone stock (of course). I will be changing my tranny fluid and diff fluid here shortly (I'm at 52K) and expect even better comfort from the mechanicals.

I highly recommend the SSK by the way; I went piecemeal and just bought the mechanical bits and kept the stock knob and boot. Saved a few $$ and I thought the alcantara would look silly in the cockpit by itself.

Keep us posted as to what you end up doing. You are at the right place. I am glad now to have been here a year or two and able to post my experiences to help others.

[dorkdog]

Originally Posted by 631twentyeighteye

From what i've read it causes unnecessary wear on the synchro's. I rev match down shift each gear for the peace of mind, plus its more fun.

Just for fun the argument could be made that you're shifting more often and wearing the clutch, but clutches are repairable more than are synchros so yes you have a point. I don't heel-toe, don't track but I do rev-match very effectively.
I tend to use 1-2-4-6 while accelerating and 6-5-3-(2) when coming to a stop or turn. If it's a sharp turn yes I will d/s into 2 but the rev match will be there, and my little yellow triangle will flash, lighting the evil grin on my face.

These are grocery shifts. If I am out to make a point, I generally follow the sequence in order.

[631twentyeighteye]

Fair point. I heel-toe rev match on decel just because it's natural for me, even though its completely unnecessary . During normal driving i shift at 3k, i've found that's the sweet spot to get silky smooth shifts. On decel i usually change down a gear once the rpm hits 2200 or so, but it really depends on how fast i'm slowing down.. I get 25-26mpg highway and it drops drastically around town. 70-80 on the highway.

FWIW, I've clutch kicked several times while drifting and haven't had any ill effects on any components other than the tires. I don't make this a habit since i don't feel like toasting the clutch.

It's hard not to drive it like a race car every time i hop in

[TheSt|G]

Stick just comes down to practice. So get out there and get driving. Always helps to not have others in the car at first. Take it slow. Find a reasonable back road where you can practice 4-3 rev match downshifting.

Soon you will be enjoying one of the slickest manuals BMW has made.

Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob

There's nothing wrong with skipping shifts in either direction, so long as your rev matching appropriately.

As far as the CDV delete, I think it's nice, but I think most people overstate the difference. I still think there is a noticeable lag shifting into 1st and 2nd gear. YMMV.

For the record, there are cars where you can't skip shift. I did it all the time in my M5, but that had loads of torque. In the 128 I rarely do it.

[135Pats]

Great 6 speed box, great NA motor. Get out there and enjoy it, only big picture tip is to recognize the short wheelbase of the car. The back end will step out without too much prompting.

[nunka]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Stick just comes down to practice. So get out there and get driving. Always helps to not have others in the car at first. Take it slow. Find a reasonable back road where you can practice 4-3 rev match downshifting.

Soon you will be enjoying one of the slickest manuals BMW has made.

Absolutely. Rev match downshifting is next on my list, once I'm more comfortable with the smoothness of my takeoffs. Curious where you fall - did you remove your CDV?

And back to everyone... what's the best way to drive very slowly? Say, in a parking garage or when parallel parking. In an automatic, it's simple - control the small amount of automatic acceleration with the brake. In a manual, do you feather/ride the clutch or is there some other technique to gaining the same level of control?