Noob 135is Mod Options

[vertebra]

Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

Because of the mega markup on Dinan.

What about the mega mega markup that they would have if they just offered Dinan type upgrades themselves? The tuning companies offer parts that are upgraded in performance compared to stock. The list of upgrades over stock is hugh. I was responding to this comment:

Originally Posted by Haywood

There isn't tuner or an engineer that's better than the ones BMW has who designed and built the 1M.

Did you happen to read this:
World's fastest 1M Coupe by AC Schnitzer sets best BMW time ever on Sachsenring
Autobild takes the AC Schnitzer 1M Coupe on the Sachsenring to record some best runs. The car features 400hp / 560 Nm torque, custom brake kit, exhaust system aero kit.

The AC Schnitzer 1M laptime of 1:35,84 seconds on the Sachsenring makes it the fastest BMW ever to go round this track. The laptime is:

- over 4 seconds faster than stock 1M
- faster than 997 GT3 and M3 GTS
- 1.0 sec slower than Lambo Aventador
- 1.5 sec slower than Ferrari 458

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=813045

[AKopp]

Originally Posted by vertebra

Did you happen to read this:
World's fastest 1M Coupe by AC Schnitzer sets best BMW time ever on Sachsenring
Autobild takes the AC Schnitzer 1M Coupe on the Sachsenring to record some best runs. The car features 400hp / 560 Nm torque, custom brake kit, exhaust system aero kit.

The AC Schnitzer 1M laptime of 1:35,84 seconds on the Sachsenring makes it the fastest BMW ever to go round this track. The laptime is:

- over 4 seconds faster than stock 1M
- faster than 997 GT3 and M3 GTS
- 1.0 sec slower than Lambo Aventador
- 1.5 sec slower than Ferrari 458

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=813045

Right, but it's still a 1M. I'm sure an AC Schnitzer 135i is faster than a stock 135i. The 1M is such a great platform to begin with. Of course things can be improved, as anything or car can be.

[vertebra]

Exactly my point!


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[lastMleft]

Originally Posted by TS135i

You own such cars at your age because you live in the US. My 135i although nicely spec'ed cost $92,000AU and our Aussie dollar is worth more than the US$...
So enjoy it while you can because your American cheap way of life isn't going to last much longer.

You come off as an American hater, envious you must be.

[vertebra]

Originally Posted by formula M

? I though you said the 1M sucked and that moding a 135i is better... (than modifying a 1M). You can modify anything... that isn't your point.

You need to take the time to actually read the thread before making ill informed comments. Not what I said at all. Love the 1M.

[TheGuestSpeaker]

Anyone want to chime in with information pertaining to my original question?

[jsmonet]

Originally Posted by formula M

?

I though you said the 1M sucked and that moding a 135i is better... (than modifying a 1M).

You can modify anything... that isn't your point.

retail to retail the 1m is a great deal.

thing is, people selling their 1m's have mkIV-itis. they sell them for 10, 15, 20k over brand new retail with thousands of miles on them. wtf is the point in buying a 1m in that price range when you have a wealth of other, more capable options at those price points?

[MLSavage]

Originally Posted by TheGuestSpeaker

Anyone want to chime in with information pertaining to my original question?

1. Do you plan to track the car at all?
This flows into question 2...
2. Which do you value more, performance mods or aesthetic mods? The question is are you completely happy with every aesthetic part of your car, exterior/interior.
I ask because these will be the easiest and usually cheapest upgrades. Personally I put them ahead of performance mods unless you plan on immediately tracking the car as these cars are plenty powerful for DD.
These cars need significant upgrades to really enjoy them on track which starts with #3...
3. New tires will be an immediate upgrade and selling the RFTs will get back some money.

The best suspension upgrade by consensus is M3 subframe bushings but these are extremely labor intensive and make sense to add as many suspension components as possible while you are paying for the install of these.

We have brake upgrade options, OE rotors, BBKs and OE caliper rebuilds.
In almost every aspect of tuning there are things that have no interference with the warranty but usually cost a bit more and sometimes aren't as cost effective (warranty problems aside) as the non-warranty aftermarket mods.
With heavy tracking you would benefit from enhanced cooling mods, oil cooler, FMIC, etc.
These are just considerations for performance upgrades and can get away with some of them if you aren't going to push the car to its limit on the track.

It really depends on how you answer questions 1 & 2 and then we can give specific suggestions from there.

[TheGuestSpeaker]

Originally Posted by MLSavage

1. Do you plan to track the car at all?
This flows into question 2...
2. Which do you value more, performance mods or aesthetic mods? The question is are you completely happy with every aesthetic part of your car, exterior/interior.
I ask because these will be the easiest and usually cheapest upgrades. Personally I put them ahead of performance mods unless you plan on immediately tracking the car as these cars are plenty powerful for DD.
These cars need significant upgrades to really enjoy them on track which starts with #3...
3. New tires will be an immediate upgrade and selling the RFTs will get back some money.

The best suspension upgrade by consensus is M3 subframe bushings but these are extremely labor intensive and make sense to add as many suspension components as possible while you are paying for the install of these.

We have brake upgrade options, OE rotors, BBKs and OE caliper rebuilds.
In almost every aspect of tuning there are things that have no interference with the warranty but usually cost a bit more and sometimes aren't as cost effective (warranty problems aside) as the non-warranty aftermarket mods.
With heavy tracking you would benefit from enhanced cooling mods, oil cooler, FMIC, etc.
These are just considerations for performance upgrades and can get away with some of them if you aren't going to push the car to its limit on the track.

It really depends on how you answer questions 1 & 2 and then we can give specific suggestions from there.

Thanks for helping me narrow thing down. In answer to your questions:

1.) I would like to track the car at some point, but my experience in events is limited (I did a handful of autox in the sti). I don't see myself becoming a track junky with this car, but it would be nice to do 2-3 events a year. Plan on this being a autox and "spirited" street driven car.

2.) Performance, specifically suspension mods. While I would love a carbon fiber diffuser, CSL trunk, etc. I would get many more smiles out of coils.

3.) What is the concensus on coils?

Thanks

[MLSavage]

Originally Posted by TheGuestSpeaker

Thanks for helping me narrow thing down. In answer to your questions:

1.) I would like to track the car at some point, but my experience in events is limited (I did a handful of autox in the sti). I don't see myself becoming a track junky with this car, but it would be nice to do 2-3 events a year. Plan on this being a autox and "spirited" street driven car.

2.) Performance, specifically suspension mods. While I would love a carbon fiber diffuser, CSL trunk, etc. I would get many more smiles out of coils.

3.) What is the concensus on coils?

Thanks

1. See above considerations, preventative upgrades are suggested. Simply upgraded the internals of our calipers with better brake fluid helps. I would also put on a different pad for the track. It does not solve our issues because we have horrible airflow to cool our brakes but it should get you through 2-3 days /year depending on how hard you're pushing.

2. Whatever we do with our suspension will not be optimized without upgrading the rear subframe bushings. You can greatly improve it by simply adding a coilover or spring+damper upgrade but they won't be as good as they can possibly be. The stock bushings deflect too much to allow the other components to do their job to the best of their ability. The problem is that the install labor of the bushings is very hard and therefore expensive so it is best to have them installed when you have other bits to install as well. A lot of people also upgrade stock bits with M3 components, both front and rear.

3. There are degrees of coilover that we can go, it all depends on how much input you want to have once they are installed. Whether you want to play with deflection-rate or ride height, etc. Also how much you want to lower the car (if at all) could play into that decision.

This is a taste of what can be done, Harold from HPA is a member of these forums and can answer any questions you have with regards to suspension upgrades.

I'm similar to you in that the plan is to not track the car extensively (mainly due to budget for me) so the coilover kit that most meets my needs is the TCK+Koni Kit + M3 bushings + M3 components

I'm also considering BMW PS + M3 components for a slightly cheaper, probably not as nice of an upgrade. I'll do this if I really feel the need to stay OE.

To dial in what you want I suggest searching for the suspension threads and get peoples review's from there.

[Shake]

A few comments....
-I don't think LSD is worth it for the few times you'll take it to autocross.
-Don't get the carbon fiber hood or trunk. The cost of the parts + painting it is not worth the weight savings.
-Rims, I actually like the stock IS rims, but if you want the aftermarket look I would do BBS LMs or CCWs.

Back to your original question...drive the car stock for about 3 months to get a feel for what it is lacking. Once it is broken in, I vote for doing the suspension mods. I think that will be the best use of $$ spent, especially for everyday driving.

[fullboost]

Originally Posted by b1aze

Drive it bone stock for 1month before modding anything please. You will be pleasantly surprised how balanced the car is stock. A JB4 will completely change the car for cheap if you really feel you need more power. These cars are really great stock with so much power potential.

Truth.

Unlike the STi (I've had 3, the 05, 06, and 08) The 135i out of the box is a badass. All three STi's needed help right out of the box. 2008 was the worst. The tune on it was pure garbage.

Now on my 135 I have a tune but with the stock tires and no LSD and it actually throws the car out of balance imo even though it's fun doing big burnouts in first and second.

[TheGuestSpeaker]

Originally Posted by fullboost

Truth.

Unlike the STi (I've had 3, the 05, 06, and 08) The 135i out of the box is a badass. All three STi's needed help right out of the box. 2008 was the worst. The tune on it was pure garbage.

Now on my 135 I have a tune but with the stock tires and no LSD and it actually throws the car out of balance imo even though it's fun doing big burnouts in first and second.

Thanks for the help. I completely agree with you on the STi. I had an 05 and like I said earlier every single mod made a drastic change.

Tune will be one of the last things I do to the car. I love the E46 CSL of yore and am leaning towards steering my 1 in that direction (ie suspension and weight savings first).

Shake, I (like I'm sure most on this forum) would love a set of BBS LM Champion Editions. That said, unless you're buying, I'll probably follow the whole CSL/OEM look and get VMR VB3s (one of the few wheels it seems that you can get some concavity in a staggered setup). Depending on how much money I have laying around after suspension I may do some Advan RZ's instead. I love those wheels, but the cost/weight savings ratio isnt that great.