SMART mods

[Cheeze1]

On Monday I will be picking up my new 135i DCT and have been wondering about what I can do to help maintain and protect a new car throughout its life (aside from stringent and routine regular maintenance of course).

For example, the two main ideas I have right now are a magnetic oil drain plug and a clear bra. Both items serve a purpose of helping to protect the car from wear and tear without altering the car's function, driveability, warranty, etc.

I would love to hear of other ideas along the same line. Thoughts?

Was supposed to pick up my car today but it's postponed until Monday, so in the meantime I am left making these hypothetical threads like I am a real owner already.

edits: 1) don't mean to say 'normal' mods aren't smart either. 2) modding the driver is the best mod

[Rowdy]

I would highly suggest a BMS oil catch can to help prevent carbon foul up of the valves and cylinders.

[Cheeze1]

Originally Posted by Rowdy

I would highly suggest a BMS oil catch can to help prevent carbon foul up of the valves and cylinders.

Never heard of such a thing (will be my first F/I car), any warranty implications? Looks like it has to be regularly drained too, is it relatively easy to drain? That's exactly the type of suggestion I'm looking for, thank you.

[Chris.]

I second an oil catch can (even though I am too cheap to buy one).

I would look into walnut blasting as well.

[zakyzozo]

Be careful with the clear bra, it needs to be removed at some point so it does not get baked into the paint. Just keep up with the maintenance and don't wait until the computer tells you to change the oil, i.e. 15k miles, change it every 5k.

[135Pats]

An OCC can be reversed back to stock in 30 minutes from hood open to hood closed...it's not a big undertaking at all. Highly recommended it on this platform regardless your plans for the car.

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by phil97m3blue

Never heard of such a thing (will be my first F/I car), any warranty implications? Looks like it has to be regularly drained too, is it relatively easy to drain? That's exactly the type of suggestion I'm looking for, thank you.

High motor pressure increases crank case pressure and. Well the pressure needs a vent, having a blocked positive crank vent system can break piston rings

Stock system makes the blown by oil go into the intake, turbos, intercooler, then burn onto the valves.

Occ is emptied by unscrewing the bottom as far as i'm aware.

Definitely a good reliability mod.

To compliment: rob beck PCV valve.

The valve that lets the pressure out isn't the best from factory, basically.

[Cheeze1]

Originally Posted by flinchy

High motor pressure increases crank case pressure and. Well the pressure needs a vent, having a blocked positive crank vent system can break piston rings

Stock system makes the blown by oil go into the intake, turbos, intercooler, then burn onto the valves.

Occ is emptied by unscrewing the bottom as far as i'm aware.

Definitely a good reliability mod.

To compliment: rob beck PCV valve.

The valve that lets the pressure out isn't the best from factory, basically.

Ordering the BMS catch can now. Can you please link to the PCV valve you mentioned? First page of google results are all forum posts.

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by phil97m3blue

Ordering the BMS catch can now. Can you please link to the PCV valve you mentioned? First page of google results are all forum posts.

http://www.rbturbo.com/products/accessories/rbpcv

he also sells the cap (not as needed, just nice) and couple of other nice things.

[Cheeze1]

Originally Posted by flinchy

http://www.rbturbo.com/products/accessories/rbpcv

he also sells the cap (not as needed, just nice) and couple of other nice things.

Perfect, thank you.

Originally Posted by Ian///M

OCC and chargepipe.

I don't plan on doing anything power-wise for a while, is the chargepipe a common failure or only on tuned engines?

[Dackelone]

I have been using the UUC magnetic oil drain plug myself. But recently I found a better one. By better I mean the magnet is MUCH stronger. Its made by a company called Dimple. They are a bit pricey(at $35) but the quality is very good!

www.drainplugmagnets.com


UUC magnetic oil drain plug...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=496058


I would also say you should change your oil a few times too. Maybe at 1,200 miles and again 1,200 miles later. Than every 5K or so. Follow BMW break in procedure by taking it easy for the first 1,200 miles, only rev the engine to 4.5K rpms, no full throttle and limit your speed to 110 mph's. After the first 1,200 miles(and the oil change) then gradually drive harder. Do it slowly.

I would also suggest a CDV delete IF your can has a manual trans. I know you said you have a DCT.

CDV Delete/Replacement DIY
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209440

[flinchy]

Has anyone tried a harder breakin procedure on n54's? ie a couple of high load high rpm spurts to bed the rings better potentially? Wonder if it could help at all with the blowby

[Cheeze1]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

I have been using the UUC magnetic oil drain plug myself. But recently I found a better one. By better I mean the magnet is MUCH stronger. Its made by a company called Dimple. They are a bit pricey(at $35) but the quality is very good!

www.drainplugmagnets.com


UUC magnetic oil drain plug...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=496058


I would also say you should change your oil a few times too. Maybe at 1,200 miles and again 1,200 miles later. Than every 5K or so. Follow BMW break in procedure by taking it easy for the first 1,200 miles, only rev the engine to 4.5K rpms, no full throttle and limit your speed to 110 mph's. After the first 1,200 miles(and the oil change) then gradually drive harder. Do it slowly.

I would also suggest a CDV delete IF your can has a manual trans. I know you said you have a DCT.

CDV Delete/Replacement DIY
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209440

Thanks, found that same drain plug (Dimple) off BavAuto just before your posted that. That's already too much in mods so far without even having the car. Picking it up today!!

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by phil97m3blue

Thanks, found that same drain plug (Dimple) off BavAuto just before your posted that. That's $400 in mods so far without even having the car. Picking it up today!!

Post some pics! We never get tired of seeing someone's brand new baby!


Dack

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by flinchy

Has anyone tried a harder breakin procedure on n54's? ie a couple of high load high rpm spurts to bed the rings better potentially? Wonder if it could help at all with the blowby

I would not do that - not until the engine had 2K kms on it. I would not do it. BMW says not to drive the car that way. They say not to exceed 170 kph and no high rpms or heavy acell or loading/lugging of the engine.

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by Ian///M

I followed a hard break-in. Car had 8km on the clock when I collected it. Drove it off the floor (country dealership) and within 10km I was on country roads and the oil was hot. I did increasing gentle pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 5,500RPM. Key is to then do an oil change at 250km, which was 2 days after delivery.

Note that I have never had to top my car up with oil between services.

sounds good to me, I like the theory behind a hard break in better.

Originally Posted by Dackelone

I would not do that - not until the engine had 2K kms on it. I would not do it. BMW says not to drive the car that way. They say not to exceed 170 kph and no high rpms or heavy acell or loading/lugging of the engine.

2k sounds a bit much.. piston rings are supposed to be bed in by 50-100km at most anyway, and you want them bedded properly and as fast as possible?

there's many different schools of thought though, and whatever works, works.

I'll likely do MOSTLY whatever whoever builds it suggests, but something similar to Ian. moderate-reasonable load moderate-high RPM pulls after a few km and all warm with an oil change after a couple hundred at most

[Cheeze1]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Post some pics! We never get tired of seeing someone's brand new baby!


Dack

Gladly! 2013 Mineral Grey 135i DCT w/ Cold Weather pkg. These are just cell pics, I will get some proper pics in the near future. Hard rain today unfortunately so nothing great.


Most of these miles were from transferring between where the car was originally and the dealership I purchased from





The money shot, love me some intercooler. Front plate frame will come off but the dealership drilled holes in my bumper without even asking me.







I need some Grey Poupon to go along with all this class. Wood trim usually appears almost black.




Much better looking (IMO) in person than any photos. A little taste of mineral grey's range.




1-inch drop is very tempting...





150 miles under my belt so far. As far as the break-in "debate", I'll be following BMW's (and Porsche's, etc) recommended procedure. That topic can be taken to another thread please , and you can start that thread off with the following read if you wish:

http://yel.pca.org/porsche-engine-break-in/

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by phil97m3blue

I need some Grey Poupon to go along with all this class. Wood trim usually appears almost black.

Hahhaa... maybe you should change your user name to: Mineral Grey Poupon!


You might want to remove your front dealer tag. I think it only screws on from underneath the air inlet, FMIC area. At least thats my understanding.

Cobb or Eibach make nice (mild) lowering springs. So does BMW Performance too.


Dack