BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      05-01-2016, 09:57 AM   #1
mrdave
New Member
0
Rep
6
Posts

Drives: 08 135i
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Australia

iTrader: (0)

Smile 135i Build Ideas

Hey guys,

Long time lurker, first time posting.

Sorry for the huge narrative, but I assume the information I supply, the more likely I am to get good advice.

I've had a read of just about everything I could find over the past few months, but still can't make an informed decision - hoping someone can help. If I've missed a thread where someone talks about the same thing - please point me and I apologies in advance.

Looking to spend a little cash on my car, had it for 4 years, time to go faster. Friend just bought a new C63, and its left me feeling a little jealous (both sound and speed).

Ive got the DCI and JB4, new spark plugs on the way already. Also put some slotted and drilled discs/pads all round from ebay. Can't remember the specs, but made a very good difference to the brakes. I did the amplifier and sub install, and I replaced the cigarette section in the centre console with a storage space. Double DIN headunit/nav/tv is also on its way.

I switched out to the cheapest non-run flat tyres I could find, and I've paid the penalty. I struggle to get traction even in stock mode, and it's so wishy washy over 120km, I don't even bother. But the savings are solid, so they are staying for now unless someone can convince me otherwise (See below).

Here is a recent pic; as everyone loves pics.


So my questions start with:
Exhaust:
$424 - http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-3-stain...-bmw-135i.html

$649 - http://store.activeautowerke.com/col...-2-exhaust-e82

Anyone heard either of these guys in action? I know they will sound good accelerating, much highway drone? that's my only real concern as to get to town from my house I have to go on country roads 100km/h, so cruise sound is important.

Next is suspension. This is where I start to get a bit beyond my experience. I don't really know where to start, except I think I'd prefer to just go coilovers straight up if that's going to fix my handling. I don't really want to go back to runflats - as my driving style means i burn $1k in tyres every 6 months (20k kms' was my best from rears runflats, getting 30k+ with non's at 1/8 of the price).
I'd rather these shit tyres get compensated with great suspension (if that's even possible?). I have never tracked the car - despite my desire too I probably never will as I have lovely driving around my place (Maleny/Keniworth etc) and I'm too bloody busy.. Also, there is lots of 'shit' sections of roads (potholes etc) around me so I can't really go too much firmer than it currently is (stock) without busting rims, and I'm a sook and like comfort too. Suggestions?

Next importance for me is LSD, I'm sick of 1 wheel skiddies. I know it will cost decent cash - just looking for the best option. Currently leaning towards the core swap LSD track wave?

Finally, bit more HP. Again bit beyond me, so please advise. I see a few of the suppliers/people have done chargepipe, intake kits, intercooler, modified BOV's, and then finally meth. I don't really want to go to the meth extreme, so what is a good target before that?

Thanks in advance guys!
Dave
Appreciate 0
      05-01-2016, 06:00 PM   #2
Fuji
First Lieutenant
Fuji's Avatar
Australia
30
Rep
393
Posts

Drives: SGM E92 335i
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Melbourne, Victoria

iTrader: (0)

Hey mate, in regards to Catless DP, there wouldn't be too much of a difference between the two you've listed. In regards to pricing, VRSF can be had for about $600aud shipped. Fitment on this product was improved in the V2 version, as many of the original iterations of DP for the N54 had clearance issues.

As for install, it's a difficult job and many of us have it professional installed for $400-$500 (4hr shop time). On jack stands and with tools at home, this might take 10 hours!
__________________
SGM E92 335i / MHD Stage 1 Plus / CP-E FMIC / DCI / VRSF CP / Turbosmart Raceport BOV / Cosmetics: M3 Front / M3 Side Skirts / M Sport Rear / High Kick CF Spoiler / LUX V5 AEs
Appreciate 0
      05-01-2016, 06:42 PM   #3
vtl
IPA: \ví tí ɛ́l\
vtl's Avatar
Australia
170
Rep
1,496
Posts

Drives: 2008 BMW 135i MT
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Melbourne, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Welcome!

Cheaping out on tyres is the worst thing you can do for performance. I wouldn't even bother doing power mods until you have decent rubber on there. You'll just spin up the tyres and never be able to make the most of it. DSC will still be kicking in in 3rd gear

Out of all the mods I have done to my car, sticky non-runflat tyres were the best thing I have fitted to the car. Improves the ride comfort, traction and grip. If you're concerned about busting rims, this will certainly improve things.

I found upgrading the suspension to be an upgrade in ride comfort. The stock suspension has poor dampers so while it is very soft, it isnt comfortable. I've gone to stiffer Bilstein B12 suspension and while its firmer, it absorbs the bumps better cos of the superior damping. Combined this setup with camber plates, m3 control arms and nolathane rear subframe bushings and its a very very capable setup now. The suspension is no substitute for good tyres though, can't solve your traction issues if you have cheap rubber.

If you want good consistent power:
Intake
Downpipes
Intercooler
MHD tune (flash tune)

More power:
Ethanol MHD tune (E40 tune or go custom)
Upgraded low pressure fuel pump to support the extra fuel demand

At the dyno day we saw 250rwkw on 98 fuel, 280rwkw on ethanol fuel cars on a low reading dyno.

I have found most axlebacks are designed for cars without downpipes. Once you put downpipes in they normally drone like crazy and are pretty damn loud, the stock downpipes are very effective mufflers. Stock exhaust + downpipes is moderately loud with the windows down.
__________________
2008 Alpine White BMW 135i Manual | MHD Stage 2 | Agency Power DPs | 550i Clutch | Wagner FMIC | Turbosmart Kompact DVs | M3 Control arms | Bilstein B12 ProKit | Dinan Camber Plates | E46 M3 Trans mounts | Nolathane rear subframe bushings | Ferodo DS2500 pads | Yokohama AD08R | Gutted CDV | Schroth Harness
Appreciate 0
      05-01-2016, 11:38 PM   #4
froop
Colonel
froop's Avatar
Australia
76
Rep
2,577
Posts

Drives: 08 AW 6MT E82
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Sydney, Australia

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Welcome!

Cheaping out on tyres is the worst thing you can do for performance. I wouldn't even bother doing power mods until you have decent rubber on there. You'll just spin up the tyres and never be able to make the most of it. DSC will still be kicking in in 3rd gear
+1 on the tyres. Good tyres will help your braking, acceleration and handling. You can have all the mods in the world like a $25k carbon ceramic BBK, 182575rwhp and $20k suspension but if you don't have some semi decent tyres you might as well not bother.

If you don't want to fork out for a new set of tyres, just look for a used set of decent/good tyres. I purchased a used 245/35/18 square set of Michelin PSS with ~60% tread for $400 shipped from Melbourne just recently. Pretty sure I just saw someone selling some GTC AFF-1 wheels with a 225/245 PSS staggered set. I'm sure you'd be able to buy them from him for $400 as well.

Hell, I have an extra set of 225/255 Yokohama AD08Rs with 20% tread left I was going to keep to maybe go to a dry drift event on them but I'd consider selling them too.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      05-02-2016, 12:44 AM   #5
The Wind Breezes
Banned
188
Rep
790
Posts

Drives: 135i N55 DCT
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Houston

iTrader: (0)

Cheaping out on tires is pretty much the best thing you can do, imo. Turn DSC fully off, and practice embracing the car's natural tendencies. You'll become a way better driver.
Appreciate 0
      05-02-2016, 01:40 AM   #6
John_01
Colonel
John_01's Avatar
Australia
84
Rep
2,353
Posts

Drives: E90 325i, E82 135i
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sydney, Australia

iTrader: (0)

If you want to keep it comfortable for bad roads, you are probably best to keep the stock springs, IMO. You can still add upgraded shocks and a firmer front sway bar to reduce the body roll in cornering. Keeping the stock ride height maintains enough suspension travel to keep it reasonably comfortable. The rear subframe bushings are a major weak point of these cars and causes unpredictable loose handling. If you go to the expense of getting a LSD, then you will definitely want to get the rear subframe bushings addressed at the same time. Considering your preference for road car style ride quality, the best subframe bushing upgrade is probably the M3 ones which are a direct fit, but need to be pressed in. There are other less expensive options available from aftermarket suppliers as well. Mr VTL is already expert with those!
Appreciate 0
      05-02-2016, 02:55 AM   #7
froop
Colonel
froop's Avatar
Australia
76
Rep
2,577
Posts

Drives: 08 AW 6MT E82
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Sydney, Australia

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes View Post
Cheaping out on tires is pretty much the best thing you can do, imo. Turn DSC fully off, and practice embracing the car's natural tendencies. You'll become a way better driver.
Up until that point where you're in an emergency situation and get into a big accident because your tyres were so shit they couldn't brake in time or lost grip when they shouldn't have. If his tyres are feeling "wishy washy" anytime its over 120km that's not a good sign...

Don't get me wrong about learning the limits of the car. I drive at all times with traction control fully off but this can be done more safely with decent tyres on and off the street.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      05-02-2016, 03:01 AM   #8
7smurfs
Captain
7smurfs's Avatar
Australia
31
Rep
752
Posts

Drives: SGM 135i
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Melbourne

iTrader: (0)

Potenza RE003 are a great tyre and can be had <1k easily

I ran PSS prior and find the RE003 just as good, however they don't look as 'fat' from the rear.

My favourite hardware mod so far would be axle back exhaust. Adds life to the car in terms of sound!

If you want power then MHD and DPs/FMIC
Appreciate 0
      05-02-2016, 03:31 AM   #9
The Wind Breezes
Banned
188
Rep
790
Posts

Drives: 135i N55 DCT
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Houston

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by froop View Post
Up until that point where you're in an emergency situation and get into a big accident because your tyres were so shit they couldn't brake in time or lost grip when they shouldn't have. If his tyres are feeling "wishy washy" anytime its over 120km that's not a good sign...

Don't get me wrong about learning the limits of the car. I drive at all times with traction control fully off but this can be done more safely with decent tyres on and off the street.
Let me clarify. Sticky tires are nice, but why put them on the car when you can't even make use of them in anything more than a straight line? Tires with less traction are nice because you don't need to push the car super aggressively to come to the limit. Even without pushing yourself much you can keep a nice edge on a car that is not stuck to the road, but gliding. To avoid crashing, you don't want to push your limits too much on a public road, but for parking lots, and open areas, it pays dividends to really push yourself and learn how the car handles at the limit. I see so many posts about how one person or another disabled DSC and ended up spinning out on this or that public road. It leaves me terribly sad every time I hear this, because the first thing I do when I start the car is disable DSC, and I slide the hell out of the car everywhere on my bald rear tires. I have car control, which is a skill ANY driver can learn and it makes driving an absolute pleasure. In any case, for street driving, a responsible driver stays within the car's limits and his own limits--tires are not going to cause anybody to crash, but a driver who doesn't understand his tires can crash. Now, unless the OP's tires are outright defective, they will have quite a lot of traction to spare for legal driving in all conditions. I don't doubt that they will spin a lot under throttle, but this is just one more part of the car to learn to control. I have no issues controlling mine with bald 245 runflats, tune + downpipe.


Also, as far as his car squirming above 120 kph, it happens. His tires have full tread depth and soft sidewalls. He may need an alignment too. It's not a big deal.
Appreciate 0
      05-02-2016, 05:49 AM   #10
DR-JEKL
Brigadier General
Australia
190
Rep
4,237
Posts

Drives: Space Grey E92 335i 6MT
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Newcastle Ozstraylia

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes View Post
Let me clarify. Sticky tires are nice, but why put them on the car when you can't even make use of them in anything more than a straight line? Tires with less traction are nice because you don't need to push the car super aggressively to come to the limit. Even without pushing yourself much you can keep a nice edge on a car that is not stuck to the road, but gliding. To avoid crashing, you don't want to push your limits too much on a public road, but for parking lots, and open areas, it pays dividends to really push yourself and learn how the car handles at the limit. I see so many posts about how one person or another disabled DSC and ended up spinning out on this or that public road. It leaves me terribly sad every time I hear this, because the first thing I do when I start the car is disable DSC, and I slide the hell out of the car everywhere on my bald rear tires. I have car control, which is a skill ANY driver can learn and it makes driving an absolute pleasure. In any case, for street driving, a responsible driver stays within the car's limits and his own limits--tires are not going to cause anybody to crash, but a driver who doesn't understand his tires can crash. Now, unless the OP's tires are outright defective, they will have quite a lot of traction to spare for legal driving in all conditions. I don't doubt that they will spin a lot under throttle, but this is just one more part of the car to learn to control. I have no issues controlling mine with bald 245 runflats, tune + downpipe.


Also, as far as his car squirming above 120 kph, it happens. His tires have full tread depth and soft sidewalls. He may need an alignment too. It's not a big deal.
Jeez mate that's a crazy frame of mind to have...

What happens if a car pulls out on you when you're doing 70 km/h.. You can't allow for these scenario's and drive within the tyre's limits as you put it...

I'm a high believer in paying extra for premium tyres as they may pull you up a few meters sooner in an emergency braking situation. If a pedestrian was to run out on you, those few metres may be the difference between that pedestrian from being killed or escaping death...

Then of course premium tyres always have so much more feedback through the steering wheel, respond to transitions more effectively, are quieter etc etc
Appreciate 0
      05-02-2016, 07:59 PM   #11
The Wind Breezes
Banned
188
Rep
790
Posts

Drives: 135i N55 DCT
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Houston

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Jeez mate that's a crazy frame of mind to have...

What happens if a car pulls out on you when you're doing 70 km/h.. You can't allow for these scenario's and drive within the tyre's limits as you put it...

I'm a high believer in paying extra for premium tyres as they may pull you up a few meters sooner in an emergency braking situation. If a pedestrian was to run out on you, those few metres may be the difference between that pedestrian from being killed or escaping death...

Then of course premium tyres always have so much more feedback through the steering wheel, respond to transitions more effectively, are quieter etc etc
So you're saying that any tires other than high performance summer tires are unsafe? Why stop there? Run racing tires for the ultimate in road safety!

Seriously, paying attention is the one and only thing that will save you on the road. If you are so caught by surprise by someone pulling out (when you're traveling at the low speed of 70kph, mind you) that you can only slam on the brakes and pray that your tires will stop you, you've already given up control and are gambling. Trying to compensate for lack of attentiveness with tires that are at best 25% more sticky (.8->1.0G) than the absolute worst possible economy tire doesn't sound like a great idea to me.

Feedback from a tire will depend mostly on tread depth and sidewall stiffness. And a lot of the grippiest summer tires are actually pretty loud.
Appreciate 0
      05-02-2016, 09:51 PM   #12
chrisw27
New Member
0
Rep
27
Posts

Drives: E82 135i N55 DCT
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sydney, Australia

iTrader: (1)

With regard to tyre performance, the progression characteristics of traction are just as important as outright traction levels.

In my experience, poorer quality "performance" tyres, oem runflats included, can provide decent traction, but as you approach the traction limit the fall off is quite dramatic and with little sign or notice i.e, through steering feel, noise etc. This can be a big problem.

For me, moving from the oem runflats to mpss was quite dramatic in effect. On the road, i dont push the car hard enough to exceed the traction limits of the michelins, but i can certainly feel the onset much more clearly and adjust through the corner as needed.

I would certainly agree that tyre upgrades should come before suspension work. In addition, its easier to set your spring/shocks based on your tyres rather than the other way around.
Appreciate 0
      05-09-2016, 11:46 PM   #13
mrdave
New Member
0
Rep
6
Posts

Drives: 08 135i
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Australia

iTrader: (0)

Thanks for the advice guys. Tyres are next on my list. Can anyone give me a link to any of the tyres mentioned? I spoke to my local place with some of the names and they had no idea.

I just finished installing new spark plugs and woah, my old ones must have been in really bad shape. Map1, spinning through 1, 2 & 3. Really highlights my traction issues!
Appreciate 0
      05-10-2016, 03:35 AM   #14
OzJustin
First Lieutenant
Australia
20
Rep
396
Posts

Drives: 2008 135i AT Monaco Blue
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Brisbane, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2008 BMW 135i  [4.33]
Jump on tirerack.com and you'll be able to peruse all the summer performance category tyres and sizes. Michelin Pilot Super Sports and Goodyear Eagle F1 A2 are popular choices.
__________________
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:37 PM.




1addicts
1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST