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      07-11-2011, 11:38 AM   #1
biglare
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Post 1M ESS Tuning 410hp with Dyno Graphs

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ESS 1M Tune: http://www.esstuning.com/products/ES...-Software.html

Official specs:
Quote:
DirectFlash Stage 1 :
Top Speed Governor: Removed
RPM Limit: 7200RPM
Fuel requirement: 91US
Horsepower: 400 DIN (Stock 335) - 390DIN if used with stock intercooler
Torque: 550NM
Normal whp range on DynoJet: 345-365whp
After over a week of running the ESS Tuning Stage 1 tune on the 1M I was finally able to schedule a dyno session on a DynoJet in SD. I was able to measure both the stock hp/tq as well as the Stage 1 tune hp/tq.

I was very impressed with the stock numbers and could definitely feel the tune and the dyno graphs confirm my thoughts. The car feels very linear as it pulls to redline and flattens out right at the end.

Based on using the standard 15-18% drivetrain loss the car stock is making about 370 HP and the stage 1 tune is making about 410 HP.

I am told that the 1M Stage 2 tune from ESS Tuning is in the works right now. I cannot wait to get my hands on the Stage 2 tune!


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I've been busy today fellas, but here is the graph to show STD, smoothing 5 and AFR's.

The weather station at the dyno was showing 91 deg F on the stock run and 100 deg F for the tuned run. The dyno is located in Santee which is approx. 20 miles inland of SD coast.


Enjoy!


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Edit by admin with current photos of car:








Last edited by biglare; 07-12-2011 at 02:28 AM. Reason: Added dyno graphs
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      07-11-2011, 11:47 AM   #2
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Very Impressive numbers!
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      07-11-2011, 11:54 AM   #3
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Great results!!! Thanks for sharing! It looks like ESS did a pretty job tuning your car. Very impressive.

It still amazing me how much power these little car make not just with a tune, but even stock!!

I don't mean to be nit picky or too critical, but I'm curious to hear your impression on the top end power. It looks like the ESS tune has some fall off on power around 5500-6000. Granted I'm sure in a real-life situation, it's probably not that noticeable.

Awesome job ESS Tuning. Enjoy the car biglare...it must be great to have ESSVT2-600 and tuned 1M
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      07-11-2011, 12:18 PM   #4
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Looks good, I spoke to Roman about this tune and as soon as my break in is done I'll be going with the ESS tune

EDIT: what were the conditions of this run? I'd also be curious to see this on a Mustang Dyno
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      07-11-2011, 12:25 PM   #5
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Definitely nice to see another dyno run. gotta love it when the HP at the wheels is darn near the rated hp at the flywheel..
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      07-11-2011, 12:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipm3 View Post
It looks like the ESS tune has some fall off on power around 5500-6000. Granted I'm sure in a real-life situation, it's probably not that noticeable.

Welcome to the world of the N54.
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      07-11-2011, 12:34 PM   #7
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Multiply the numbers by 1.15 for 15% gain value. ~ 363 hp stock and 400 hp with stage 1 @ the crank "estimated". My 135i did 347hp to the wheels with the JB3 Map 2 only, for reference ~12-13psi iirc.

Also, do they have a version of the map with smoothing set to 5? That will take out a lot of inaccurate variable fluctuation and give you a more precise, or as precise as you can get number. Also set it to STD instead of SAE due to it being a turbo car. Yeah, I own a dynojet.

Last edited by JHOOPS2; 07-11-2011 at 12:39 PM.
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      07-11-2011, 12:34 PM   #8
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I'm guessing pricing will be close to the 335i variant? Around $900?
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      07-11-2011, 12:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHOOPS2 View Post
Multiply the numbers by 1.15 for 15% gain value. ~ 363 hp stock and 400 hp with stage 1 @ the crank "estimated". My 135i did 347hp to the wheels with the JB3 Map 2 only, for reference ~12-13psi iirc.
400-15%=340
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      07-11-2011, 12:40 PM   #10
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Am I reading this wrong?
350 hp / 400 ft lbs @ the wheels with tune?
It's hard to read on my phone.
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      07-11-2011, 12:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoboto View Post
400-15%=340
Common confusion. My experience is that the dynojet is only on average seeing a loss of about 13% loss from the flywheel. However, we don't have flywheel numbers. What we do have is rear wheel numbers where multiplying the number by 1.15 will get you the more accurate number. That is where the 15% that everyone uses comes from. Then somewhere it always gets lost in translation and everyone starts using reverse math to try and figure out how much power they would have to make at the crank in order to get the rw# with 15% loss.
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      07-11-2011, 12:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHOOPS2 View Post
Multiply the numbers by 1.15 for 15% gain value. ~ 363 hp stock and 400 hp with stage 1 @ the crank "estimated". My 135i did 347hp to the wheels with the JB3 Map 2 only, for reference ~12-13psi iirc.

Also, do they have a version of the map with smoothing set to 5? That will take out a lot of inaccurate variable fluctuation and give you a more precise, or as precise as you can get number. Also set it to STD instead of SAE due to it being a turbo car. Yeah, I own a dynojet.
That math isn't correct, when there is a drivetrain loss, the number at the wheels is the portion of that (say 85% in this case). By adding back 15% you are getting a skewed number, the proper way is to divide by 0.85 and find out what the number is at the crank.

example: 400bhp car with 15% drivetrain loss would put down 340 on the dyno (400*85%), if you had the 340 on the dyno and added back 15% you would get 391 which is different.
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      07-11-2011, 12:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Parker View Post
Am I reading this wrong?
350 hp / 400 ft lbs @ the wheels with tune?
It's hard to read on my phone.
It appears so. Numbers are SAE and smoothing is set to 3 though. Hard to compare with other cars on the board. That being said, the numbers could be higher, or lower.
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      07-11-2011, 12:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carchrism5 View Post
That math isn't correct, when there is a drivetrain loss, the number at the wheels is the portion of that (say 85% in this case). By adding back 15% you are getting a skewed number, the proper way is to divide by 0.85 and find out what the number is at the crank.

example: 400bhp car with 15% drivetrain loss would put down 340 on the dyno (400*85%), if you had the 340 on the dyno and added back 15% you would get 391 which is different.

A lot of assumption there. What if the 400hp car makes 348 on the dyno...as many do on my dynojet. These are the numbers that I have found best work.
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      07-11-2011, 12:56 PM   #15
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Quick example.

Completely stock my 135i makes 275hp and 301tq @ STD smoothing set to 5.

Now, if I divide that number by .85 then I am making 323hp at the crank bone stock on a 88* day.

If I multiply 275 by 1.15 I get 316.25. What is more believable with a stock 135i?

It's fuzzy math either way, but I have found my way to be much more accurate over the years.
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      07-11-2011, 01:39 PM   #16
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^ I know it varies from car to car in terms of what you are talking about, but I was referring to raw math. If you give a number and then assume a 15% loss that is the correct calculation, dividing by .85 that is the only way to do it. I agree it is fuzzy math because you can never get ideal numbers, I was simply stating that you cannot add back 15% and say that is the corrected number for 15% loss.

There are too many variables involved and I am personally most interested in the difference between numbers from stock to mods because as we all know dyno graphs are like finance, you can skew them anyway you want to make it seem the way you want.
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      07-11-2011, 01:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carchrism5 View Post
^ I know it varies from car to car in terms of what you are talking about, but I was referring to raw math. If you give a number and then assume a 15% loss that is the correct calculation, dividing by .85 that is the only way to do it. I agree it is fuzzy math because you can never get ideal numbers, I was simply stating that you cannot add back 15% and say that is the corrected number for 15% loss.

There are too many variables involved and I am personally most interested in the difference between numbers from stock to mods because as we all know dyno graphs are like finance, you can skew them anyway you want to make it seem the way you want.
All true.
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      07-11-2011, 02:10 PM   #18
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IIRC the tune is $995 btw. ESS said they would be adding it to their web shop in a little.
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      07-11-2011, 02:19 PM   #19
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Time to update my Christmas list!
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      07-11-2011, 02:41 PM   #20
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Is this a flash type tune?
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      07-11-2011, 02:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Parker View Post
Is this a flash type tune?
yes it is.
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      07-11-2011, 03:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carchrism5 View Post
^ I know it varies from car to car in terms of what you are talking about, but I was referring to raw math. If you give a number and then assume a 15% loss that is the correct calculation, dividing by .85 that is the only way to do it. I agree it is fuzzy math because you can never get ideal numbers, I was simply stating that you cannot add back 15% and say that is the corrected number for 15% loss.

There are too many variables involved and I am personally most interested in the difference between numbers from stock to mods because as we all know dyno graphs are like finance, you can skew them anyway you want to make it seem the way you want.
The only way to accurately do this is to have both crank and whp numbers. My 135i, for example, dynoed 267. Take 300 crank divided by 267 whp and myestimated drive-train loss is around 12%. Use that number as your baseline for any modifications in calculating crank hp. So, if I add a tune and turn out 340whp, then my crank would be 382. At this point all 3 variables have been accounted for. Then there is the overrated crowd that takes this down a different path... because I also put down 295wtq
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