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      10-08-2011, 04:23 PM   #1
Ian///M
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N55 Oil Change DIY

Thought I'd do a quick DIY for an oil change on my 2010 N55 135i

I had my oil changed at 500km's when the car was new as I followed a hard break-in method (up to 6,500 RPM). My car now has just done 5,000 kms, so time for another oil change.

I used Castrol EDGE 0W40. It is BMW LL01 approved and should help with lower oil temps. The oil chosen would depend on you climate etc. though.

I was surprised how dirty the oil was after only 4,000 kms. I had done 3 track days, but still I think the BMW 25,000 km recommended oil service interval is too infrequent. I will be changing every 6 months or 5,000 kms

Time needed...around 1-2 hours.

Tools & Parts:
- 17 mm spanner
- small screw driver
- oil filter kit from BMW (filter, 2 o-rings, sump crush washer)
- car jack
- 2 x jack stands & BMW jack pad
- rear wheel chocks (I just use bricks)
- 6.6 litres of oil - BMW LL01 approved
- plastic funnel
- oil filter spanner or wrench
- oil sump catch pan
- roll of paper towel

Steps:
1. Take the car for a 10 minute drive so oil is warm.
2. Do a parts check
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3. Park car on level service and place rear wheel chocks/bricks in place
4. Jack up the right rear from the rear jack point & when high enough slip in the car jack stand under the right front jack point
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5. Repeat the process on the left side. Ensure that the right side is hasn't shifted, as my right stand moved slightly and I had to re-jack up the right rear and move the right stand back into position. Now both jack stand should be supporting the car under the front jack points. Ensure rear chocks are still firmly in place. (I placed place bricks under the 2 elevated front wheels just for extra safety )
6. Now get under the front and locate the oil sump access door. Open the door.
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7. Have you oil catch pan ready. Use the 17mm spanner to loosen the sump bolt. It is hot, so I wore a glove to remove the bolt by hand. Let the oil pour out into the catch pan...careful as it will be hot!
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8. Ensure you have the sump bolt & old crush washer.
9. While the oil drains, open the oil cap on the top of the engine cover, as it will reduce the pressure and allow the oil to drain faster.
10. Now remove the oil filter with the filter spanner. Note the 2 green marks which line up the tightening point.
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11. Place the filter & cap on the ground and pull out he old filter.
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12. Remove the 2 rubber o-rings with a small screw driver.
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13. Carefully add the 2 new o-rings from your oil filter kit. Ensure that the bigger black o-ring is not too high up the filter (same position as you removed it)
14. Rub a small amount of oil on the o-rings so they are lubricated.
15. Push in the new filter. My old filter came out with the writing facing up, so I put the new filter back in the same way. There seem to be conflicting reports on which way, but don't think it matters.
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16. Re-install the filter in the engine. Tighten up until the 2 green markers are aligned.
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17. I left the car for 2 hours to drain all the oil.
18. Add the new crush washer to the sump bolt and get back under he car and tighten back up the sump bolt. (reverse of step 7 above). Wipe off all the excess oil with paper towels.
19. Close the sump access flap.
20. Fill the car up with 6.5 liters of fresh oil. I use a funnel to prevent spillage.
21. Get the car down off the stands by jacking rear and removing the front stands. Remove rear chocks.
22. Final check, all tools accounted for, all new parts in place. Everything tight
23. Start the car and let it idle. Use the iDrive to check the oil level is at max. Take the car for a 10 minutes drive & recheck the level.
24. Check for oil leaks under the car and at the oil filter assembly.

******* Also dispose of old oil at recycling depot, not is household trash...1 litre of oil contaminates 1 million litres of fresh water !!

All done! Hope this helps
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Last edited by Ian///M; 10-08-2011 at 08:45 PM.
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      10-08-2011, 04:42 PM   #2
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Excellent write up. Mods make this a Sticky.

Curious why you're using 0-40 as opposed to CE 5W-30?
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      10-08-2011, 04:56 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW86 View Post
Excellent write up. Mods make this a Sticky.

Curious why you're using 0-40 as opposed to CE 5W-30?
0W40 should run cooler than 5W40. The new Castrol Edge 0W40 is LL01 approved, careful as some old Castrol 0W40 stock isn't

Mobil 0W40 is also an option
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      10-08-2011, 05:29 PM   #4
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Nice write up! Do you know if there are any differences between the n54 and n55 oil change process?
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      10-08-2011, 07:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dh58 View Post
Nice write up! Do you know if there are any differences between the n54 and n55 oil change process?
The same I presume, other than oil filter is in a slightly different place on top of the engine.
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      10-08-2011, 07:34 PM   #6
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Nice job, thank you.

I've been changing my own oil in all my cars in 20+ years of driving, and figured this one wouldn't be bad either. But I'm very happy to see the steps and pictures to know for sure, as well as the tips and notes!

Thanks again -
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      10-09-2011, 06:50 AM   #7
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Nice writeup - thanks.

I had posted my DIY 135i oil change pics in the 128i DIY section. Thanks again for posting.
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      10-09-2011, 07:00 AM   #8
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great diy, very detailed!
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      10-09-2011, 07:06 AM   #9
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Awesome. Just about to do mine so this is great to have on hand
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      10-09-2011, 03:40 PM   #10
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bmroxm5 made an interesting point re not draining all the oil if jacked up at too much of an angle in the front. The N55/54 engine seems to have the drain at the lowest point and towards the back of the pan, so as long as the angle isn't too steep, you should be fine. Else you could jack the rear up at the rear centre diff jack point to bring it level.

Mine was raised at a minimal angle, just so that I could slide under. Also the oil filter housing seems to pool some oil, so without a flush, I say it would be difficult to remove more than 99% of the oil.

I actually bought a set of these ramps for future work, as jack stands are a PIA!
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11903-Rh...8156140&sr=1-1
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      10-10-2011, 06:00 AM   #11
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Great write up, it will be great help when I need to start changing oils on my own after warranty expires.
A couple of questions; does BMW filter kit include washer? And why is new washer needed?
thanks!!
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      10-10-2011, 06:57 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicbimmer19 View Post
Great write up, it will be great help when I need to start changing oils on my own after warranty expires.
A couple of questions; does BMW filter kit include washer? And why is new washer needed?
thanks!!
Filter kit includes filter, 2 o-rings for the filter and a copper crush-washer for the sump. All crush-washers are one time use only. O-rings I suppose could be re-used, but due to high temps probably good to replace them.
Dealer charged me $28 for the filter kit, but can get cheaper online from Tischer if in USA
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      10-24-2011, 06:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianf2002 View Post
bmroxm5 made an interesting point re not draining all the oil if jacked up at too much of an angle in the front. The N55/54 engine seems to have the drain at the lowest point and towards the back of the pan, so as long as the angle isn't too steep, you should be fine. Else you could jack the rear up at the rear centre diff jack point to bring it level.

Mine was raised at a minimal angle, just so that I could slide under. Also the oil filter housing seems to pool some oil, so without a flush, I say it would be difficult to remove more than 99% of the oil.

I actually bought a set of these ramps for future work, as jack stands are a PIA!
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11903-Rh...8156140&sr=1-1

Couldn't you just lower the front of the car back down to the ground as the oil is almost completely drained so that it drains level? Then just raise the front again to replace the bolt.
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      10-25-2011, 02:37 AM   #14
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Nice
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      10-25-2011, 02:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkR171 View Post
Couldn't you just lower the front of the car back down to the ground as the oil is almost completely drained so that it drains level? Then just raise the front again to replace the bolt.
The sump plug is located right at the rear end of the sump. Don't think slight front raised would affect draining. I measured how much oil came out and it was over the 6.5 litres and I'd never topped up since last service.
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      10-25-2011, 06:57 AM   #16
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Nice writeup. You may want to consider a cap wrench, however, for the filter housing. That style wrench will work, I suppose. I got mine from Bavarian based upon price. It has a 17mm hex head on it which is handy - same wrench does drain plug and filter that way. I also torque the filter housing to the specified torque, I think it is 15 ft lbs but I am trusting memory which is dangerous. The green dots will not necessarily line up but I think proper torque is more important. I also torque the drain plug to it's specified torque. I change a lot of cars - every quarter our church does a oil change event where I do around 10 cars - and I do not use a torque wrench on any but my bimmer. It is probably overkill but it seems like a good excuse to use the 3/8 torque wrench. I just use a cheap clicker type from Harbor Freight. Probably not terribly precise but definitely more accurate than snugging by hand.

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      04-23-2012, 12:11 PM   #17
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Maybe stupid question but step 4 how to set car on service level?
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      04-23-2012, 12:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
Maybe stupid question but step 4 how to set car on service level?

When I change my oil on my car I just jack up the car HIGH from the front left(just bellow the driver's door pickup point). I don't bother to get the car level - I jack it up about 50cm/19 inches. The entire car will be leaning to the right. I put a jack stand under the car(by the FL suspension) - and then I go about my oil change. I know some of you will say this is sacrilegious... but the oil just needs to come out of the engine.

Also... I always first drain the oil out of the sump before trying to open the oil filter housing. IF you try to open the oil filter housing first... you will make a small mess! Ask me how I know.
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      04-23-2012, 12:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dh58 View Post
Nice write up! Do you know if there are any differences between the n54 and n55 oil change process?
They are both pretty much the same. Heck even for the 128i the procedure is almost the same - except for the oil drain being pointed in a different directions.

Here is JimD 's wonderfull DIY on changing the oil. I posted my 135i pics at post #25.


First Oil Change on my 128i Convertible
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...oil+change+diy
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      04-23-2012, 12:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
When I change my oil on my car I just jack up the car HIGH from the front left(just bellow the driver's door pickup point). I don't bother to get the car level - I jack it up about 50cm/19 inches. The entire car will be leaning to the right. I put a jack stand under the car(by the FL suspension) - and then I go about my oil change. I know some of you will say this is sacrilegious... but the oil just needs to come out of the engine.

Also... I always first drain the oil out of the sump before trying to open the oil filter housing. IF you try to open the oil filter housing first... you will make a small mess! Ask me how I know.
Thanks David that is the answer which I was searching already 1 hour but 50 cm that's a lot
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      04-23-2012, 06:13 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
When I change my oil on my car I just jack up the car HIGH from the front left(just bellow the driver's door pickup point). I don't bother to get the car level - I jack it up about 50cm/19 inches. The entire car will be leaning to the right. I put a jack stand under the car(by the FL suspension) - and then I go about my oil change. I know some of you will say this is sacrilegious... but the oil just needs to come out of the engine.

Also... I always first drain the oil out of the sump before trying to open the oil filter housing. IF you try to open the oil filter housing first... you will make a small mess! Ask me how I know.
+1
The sump is at the rear & lowest level of the engine. If the front is raised slightly higher it will still all drain out. The key is to leave it to drain for around 45 mins to get ALL the warm oil out. If you watch tech's doing a service, they usually only allow 3-5 mins, which IMO leaves a bit of dirty oil still in.
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      04-24-2012, 10:17 AM   #22
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Very nice! Very nice!
Thank you
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