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| 03-26-2015, 07:25 PM | #1 |
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Need quick help on bleeding the clutch after CDV delete??
![]() Wut to do? I think I see the nipple but do I just completely take it off? What's the procedure to bleed it? the DIY stickied doesn't really say much on the clutch bleeding... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209440 |
| 03-26-2015, 08:15 PM | #2 |
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The Crowing
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It says in step #6 in the link you posted. You loosen the bleeder a little and have someone press the pedal to the floor and keep the pedal there. There should be fluid come out of the bleeder valve. Once the pedal is to the floor you tighten the valve back and then let the pedal back up. If you don't close the valve before you lift up on the pedal it may suck air in through the bleeder valve. You might see some air bubbles come out of the valve as well as fluid when the clutch is pressed in. Same concept as when bleading the brakes.
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| 03-26-2015, 08:42 PM | #4 |
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The Crowing
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Did air come out of the bleeder valve? Make sure you have enough fluid up top.
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| 03-26-2015, 08:47 PM | #5 |
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I used a pressure bleeder when I installed my CDV delete. I only opened the clutch slave's bleeder a few turns. Just enough for fluid to come out. Then after say 8oz's I closed the valve - checked my pressure bleeder for fluid and repeated. I never touched the brake pedal until I was finished.
When I did use the clutch pedal... it went(and stayed) on the floor. I pulled the pedal up with my hand and pumped the clutch pedal. Then I re-bled the entire system AGAIN. Make sure you get that CDV clip back on fully. Its easy for it not to fully snap back on(and leak). Good Luck, Dackel
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| 03-26-2015, 08:58 PM | #7 | |
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| 03-26-2015, 09:02 PM | #8 | |
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You could also try reverse bleeding the clutch slave. Go out to your local hardware store and buy a NEW oil(er) can.
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| 03-26-2015, 09:14 PM | #9 | |
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| 03-26-2015, 10:02 PM | #11 |
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I used a pressure bleeder and was getting pure fluid to come out the bleed valve. When I shut the bleed screw, I still had to pump the clutch 50-100 times before the clutch pressure felt normal. Give that a try before opening up the system again. Trust me, it took forever but the pedal pressure returned to normal.
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| 03-26-2015, 10:04 PM | #12 | |
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| 03-26-2015, 10:20 PM | #13 |
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Screw it close (tight), get in and pump the clutch until it feels good again.
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| 03-26-2015, 10:44 PM | #14 |
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I've been at this for four hours. Shits still the same. Going to call the tow truck tomorrow :bs:
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| 03-26-2015, 11:00 PM | #15 |
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Try turning the car on and pump the pedal 15-20 times. Turn it off. Then bleed again and see if air comes out. Don't pump it with the bleeder open. Only one press on the pedal then close the bleeder. Starting it may give a little vibration if there's some stubborn bubbles.
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| 03-27-2015, 03:42 AM | #16 | |
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Don't look a the front of the reservoir... but the back part of it! The reservoir has a divider in the rear just to make sure the clutch circuit won't drain the brake reservoir of brake fluid. I bet the rear is dry/empty.
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| 03-27-2015, 10:32 PM | #18 |
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What ended up fixing it?
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| 03-27-2015, 11:21 PM | #20 |
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Hahaha. So more fluid? Couple more bleed cycles? Just asking cause I'm going to be doing this as well soon and I like to know answers to the problems other people had.
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| 03-27-2015, 11:57 PM | #21 | |
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At least I think that's how it went. Lol. I'm just glad things turned out the way they did. |
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| 03-28-2015, 12:36 AM | #22 |
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Ahh. Ok. He used a pressure bleeder. Thanks for the update!
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