Car won't start after -10 degree day

[GrizzNazzty]

Hey everyone, a week ago we reached -10F and my car gave me some issues. I was able to jump it and get it started but on my way to work the car lost all power and left me stranded.

I pulled the battery and got it tested, it was indeed low but in normal working order, so I charged it up and put it back in the car. Still nothing.

I swapped out my alternator last night hoping that was part of the issue, upon inspection of the old alternator it doesn't look our sound like it was the issue. But I replaced it anyways.

I hooked everything up and the car will not fire, all electronics will turn on like normal and I get a click from the engine, that's just about it.

I hooked the car up to a trickle charger using the terminals under the hood and the charger read "power connected but battery not connected". So I re-installed my OEM BMW battery (fully charged) a few times. I have a distribution unit on it so I double checked for corrosion or loose bolts. Everything was good to go.

I'm sort of lost now, is it the starter? Is it a fuel pump? Bad fuse?

My car is a 2008 e82 with 80k on the odometer.

The codes that come up when I plug my Cobb2 in are:

P2E9E
P2E97
P2E83
P2DEB
P2DEC
P2F4F
P2ACC
P2AB4

I have a Cobb 2, DCI and a muffler delete. Those are all the mods I have done to the car. I replaced my water pump, thermostat, coils, plugs and tires this summer.

[edisapimp]

Well, if it is the battery then nothing will work in the car, no radio, no windows, no nothing. If it is the starter and the battery is good, the car's electronics will work, but the car will not make the starter hit. You may hear clicking, or you may hear nothing. Is it cranking and not turning over? Did you do the battery cable recall?

[GrizzNazzty]

Originally Posted by edisapimp

Well, if it is the battery then nothing will work in the car, no radio, no windows, no nothing. If it is the starter and the battery is good, the car's electronics will work, but the car will not make the starter hit. You may hear clicking, or you may hear nothing. Is it cranking and not turning over? Did you do the battery cable recall?

No, but I would assume that does match my symptoms for having full power and not being able to trickle charge from the under the hood.

[GrizzNazzty]

Originally Posted by GrizzNazzty

No, but I would assume that does match my symptoms for having full power and not being able to trickle charge from the under the hood.

Anyone else want to take a stab at what's going on?

[Solo_M_Tech]

1- Bad connections at the starter/ 2- Bad starter/ 3- locked up engine. Check the connections at the starter first. I am willing to bet they are loose or corroded.

[thetuna]

You said you haven't done the recall?
I would definitely take it in for that and see if the stealer can give you any leads.
Or maybe it will even fix the problem.

[Vigilante375]

Can't be the fuel pump, why? The engine would be turning over and trying to start. The car gets power from the battery but there could be a fuse somewhere that is causing something not to work correctly.

VANOS recall? I highly doubt that is causing the issue too. The engine would still be trying to turn over, I would not think the VANOS issue would cause an engine to lock up.

It could be the starter if it clicks or does nothing. Follow this link and see if it helps you figure it out:

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-...on-car-tests-1

[rpsco]

If your engine isn't cranking when you try to start it, it's likely a starter problem.

If your engine is cranking when you try to start it, but doesn't start, it's a fuel or ignition problem.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

Can't be the fuel pump, why? The engine would be turning over and trying to start. The car gets power from the battery but there could be a fuse somewhere that is causing something not to work correctly.

VANOS recall? I highly doubt that is causing the issue too. The engine would still be trying to turn over, I would not think the VANOS issue would cause an engine to lock up.

It could be the starter if it clicks or does nothing. Follow this link and see if it helps you figure it out:

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-...on-car-tests-1

Not Vanos recall, battery cable recall.

I vote either faulty connection at starter, or a bad fuse. I would check the fuses as it is fairly simple.

[Miko226]

Sounds like a bad starter to me but i have no experience with my car in anything below 40 degrees

[blackpixi7]

I had exactly the same symptoms you've described on my '08 w/70k a few weeks ago. Surprisingly, the culprit ended up being the low fuel pressure sensor.

[GrizzNazzty]

Originally Posted by blackpixi7

I had exactly the same symptoms you've described on my '08 w/70k a few weeks ago. Surprisingly, the culprit ended up being the low fuel pressure sensor.

Very interesting, did your car throw any codes relevant to mine?

[blackpixi7]

I didn't ask what codes were thrown, but the car did have the SES light on.

[GrizzNazzty]

I just called a local shop, I don't have time over the next few weeks to troubleshoot, looks like I'll be getting her towed! I'll keep this thread updated as I hear more.

[Dmak]

Make sure battery recall is done. When u say lose power, do you mean engine power, or are u talking about the car just pretty much shut off on its own?

[GrizzNazzty]

Originally Posted by Dmak

Make sure battery recall is done. When u say lose power, do you mean engine power, or are u talking about the car just pretty much shut off on its own?

Car shut off completely on its own mid drive leaving me stranded and hasn't started back up since... And I have a full tank of gas

[Dmak]

I bet its battery cable recall related. Problem is the cable that goes to the fuse box at the bacm of the glove box

[GrizzNazzty]

Originally Posted by Dmak

I bet its battery cable recall related. Problem is the cable that goes to the fuse box at the bacm of the glove box

It was in deed this issue...dealer said the battery cable was completely corroded. however I haven't had any luck seeing if its covered under the Recall because my independent shop already did the work...and I discovered that my car was born in Canada, so I need to complete a warranty validation form that takes 10 days before I can even find out if I'm covered. Looks like I'm out $250 this time...

[Vigilante375]

Good to know it was something simple.