New to me 135is, question about throttle/dct lag

[x336mr]

HI everyone, quick question about throttle lag. I'm not even sure my car experiences it, but I do feel a hesitation on throttle from full stops and getting back on throttle after braking.

How can I check what software update I have? I am aware of Carly, but do I need something to go along with Carly to check the software version, or is there a better/free way?

Thanks

[The Wind Breezes]

Long story short, it's not going to disappear even if you follow that TSB which may not apply to you anyway. You will have to live with it and plan your driving around it. I drive in full manual mode always, and the more gas I apply from a stop the less lag there is. Certain situations will induce more lag than others. It's not as good as controlling the clutch myself, but once the car is underway the DCT magic is a lot better than manual.

To directly address your question, other than using BMW standard tools or taking the car to the dealer I dunno how to find out what software version you have. Well, MHD tells you when it generates a "backup", but that's not available for your ECU. But you need to keep your expectations in check, because regardless of what other placebo-takers have written, you will never totally get rid of lag on this transmission when taking off. It's not like a Porsche dual clutch (those are totally awesome, downshift way faster and more consistently especially under duress when hot and don't have this problem when taking off).

[brytom]

The key read will tell you what version of software you have and if there are update. This is overall for the vehicle and not specific to a module or something. You should be able to go in, ask for a key read with a print out.

[zx10guy]

Read my thread on the topic:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1386273

Those that have read my posts about the DCT know I've been very critical about the operation of the transmission in real world stop and go situations. Once the tech did what I have copied and pasted in that thread, the transmission is now very good. There are situations where the throttle lag will show itself but much better than it was before. Enough where I have stopped my criticisms of how BMW implemented this trans. I've had the fix done for well over a month probably coming up on two months and the car overall has been a joy to drive.

[wannabeemer]

I only recently bought my N55 135i and am finding the throttle lag, for want of a better description, quite a pain. At first I thouyit was the charge pipe that I had to replace because the original had "blown off" so took it apart and retightened everything. I wish I had done some serious research before buying.

[The Wind Breezes]

Originally Posted by wannabeemer

I only recently bought my N55 135i and am finding the throttle lag, for want of a better description, quite a pain. At first I thouyit was the charge pipe that I had to replace because the original had "blown off" so took it apart and retightened everything. I wish I had done some serious research before buying.

It shouldn't be a pain! This is a very enjoyable transmission despite the occasional lag on takeoff! Try moving the shifter to sport and then shifting manually--you will lock into manual mode. Drive like this and make sure to downshift to first preemptively when coming to a stop. Take off with a lot of gas. For me this solves most issues. The car is more fun to drive full manual anyway. Report back if this helps with the responsiveness.

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes

It shouldn't be a pain! This is a very enjoyable transmission despite the occasional lag on takeoff! Try moving the shifter to sport and then shifting manually--you will lock into manual mode. Drive like this and make sure to downshift to first preemptively when coming to a stop. Take off with a lot of gas. For me this solves most issues. The car is more fun to drive full manual anyway. Report back if this helps with the responsiveness.

I agree. To me the DCT is one of the things that makes this car special. I look forward to driving it every day.

[wannabeemer]

Sounds like using sport mode and changing down early to 1st is going to cost me more $petrol.

[Muppet]

There has been quite a bit written re this. The easy fix is have PPK installed. Works effectively in all modes. See this thread:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1297738

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by Muppet

There has been quite a bit written re this. The easy fix is have PPK installed. Works effectively in all modes. See this thread:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1297738

The OP has a 135is which comes standard with PPK2. As mentioned above, the OP should give manual/sport mode a try and see if that helps.

[The Wind Breezes]

Originally Posted by wannabeemer

Sounds like using sport mode and changing down early to 1st is going to cost me more $petrol.

You MAY have bought the wrong car...why on earth would you buy this car if you cared about fuel economy? You'll use a lot of fuel if you ever use the power, and if you don't use the power...WHY get a 135?? With my heavy foot I get at or under 15 miles per gallon or greater than 16 l / 100km, part highway part city.

Regarding downshifting to first costing you, No, No, No, and No!. The car's engine braking, so it's not even using ANY "$petrol" at all until it drops back down to idle....where you would be using "$petrol" anyway once stopped.

My advice on manual mode must not have been clear if you think I'm suggesting driving "in sport". That is just so the car will lock to your manually selected gear choices. Once there your shifting habits and throttle use will determine your fuel economy.

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes

You MAY have bought the wrong car...why on earth would you buy this car if you cared about fuel economy? You'll use a lot of fuel if you ever use the power, and if you don't use the power...WHY get a 135?? With my heavy foot I get at or under 15 miles per gallon or greater than 16 l / 100km, part highway part city.

Regarding downshifting to first costing you, No, No, No, and No!. The car's engine braking, so it's not even using ANY "$petrol" at all until it drops back down to idle....where you would be using "$petrol" anyway once stopped.

My advice on manual mode must not have been clear if you think I'm suggesting driving "in sport". That is just so the car will lock to your manually selected gear choices. Once there your shifting habits and throttle use will determine your fuel economy.

To me, sport and manual go together. Sport makes the car a little more aggressive.

[Esteban]

Wanted to add: I think my car would be a little boring without the sport and manual modes. They make my 1er come alive and feel the way I want it to.

[The Wind Breezes]

Originally Posted by Esteban

To me, sport and manual go together. Sport makes the car a little more aggressive.

OK, I'm really not being clear! I'm not talking about the sport button, which you should have engaged all the time anyway since the transmission shifts with less slip, therefore it's better for the clutches, according to Twisted Tuning.

What I'm talking about is moving the shift lever to the left from Drive mode. If you try to shift manually in D the car will not hold your gears, it will go back into auto-shift mode if you don't touch the paddles for a few seconds. In order to actually drive the car like a manual, you HAVE to have the LEVER in sport mode first.

Does that make sense?

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by The Wind Breezes

OK, I'm really not being clear! I'm not talking about the sport button, which you should have engaged all the time anyway since the transmission shifts with less slip, therefore it's better for the clutches, according to Twisted Tuning.

What I'm talking about is moving the shift lever to the left from Drive mode. If you try to shift manually in D the car will not hold your gears, it will go back into auto-shift mode if you don't touch the paddles for a few seconds. In order to actually drive the car like a manual, you HAVE to have the LEVER in sport mode first.

Does that make sense?

Yes. Perfect sense. Gear shift lever to the left and sport button pressed are a must for me. Only way I drive the car.

Gas mileage isn't great for me either (13-14 mpg) but I really don't care. I'm out there to have a good time, not save gas, or I'd be driving a Prius. Lol

[The Wind Breezes]

Originally Posted by Esteban

I'm out there to have a good time, not save gas, or I'd be driving a Prius. Lol

Ha, for real. I'm very interested in x336mr's explanation as to why he chose a 135i if he's concerned about fuel economy.

[zx10guy]

I'll bring up the thread I linked up above stating what fixed my issues. I tried all the suggested fixes tossed around here....PPK and the SIB firmware fix. None of those fixed my problems at least any benefit was temporary. I tried the Dinan S2 tune which helped a lot with the A/C being off but not when I turned the A/C on.

I even tried driving the car in full manual mode and that didn't fix my issues. First gear creeping along in stop and go traffic the car kept wanting to jump forward with the trans set in 1st gear and my foot on the brakes. The only thing. On top of the car wanting to jump forward I still had the lag to deal with. As you can visualize this was extremely dangerous in heavy traffic. The only thing that fixed my driveability issues was what the tech did in the copied and pasted narrative in my thread. I'm probably about 2 months out now and the car still drives pretty much perfectly now.

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by zx10guy

I'll bring up the thread I linked up above stating what fixed my issues. I tried all the suggested fixes tossed around here....PPK and the SIB firmware fix. None of those fixed my problems at least any benefit was temporary. I tried the Dinan S2 tune which helped a lot with the A/C being off but not when I turned the A/C on.

I even tried driving the car in full manual mode and that didn't fix my issues. First gear creeping along in stop and go traffic the car kept wanting to jump forward with the trans set in 1st gear and my foot on the brakes. The only thing. On top of the car wanting to jump forward I still had the lag to deal with. As you can visualize this was extremely dangerous in heavy traffic. The only thing that fixed my driveability issues was what the tech did in the copied and pasted narrative in my thread. I'm probably about 2 months out now and the car still drives pretty much perfectly now.

Glad to hear it's still working for you.

[tock172]

I drive my DCT 135i pretty hard, and it consistently gets better mileage than my 6MT. Roughly 17-19 MPG vs 20-22 for the DCT.

As far as the sport button is concerned, I love having it, but I only use it when I really want to hear the full force of the exhaust overrun noise. For driving around town, it makes the throttle response too sensitive, like the sport button an E46 M3 or E39 M5, etc.

[zx10guy]

I just wished BMW would have made the activation mode of the Sport button persistent. If you activate Sport mode without turning it off when you shut the car down, it should fire back up in the same state. Not require you to constantly hit the button each time you start the car back up.

[The Wind Breezes]

Originally Posted by tock172

For driving around town, it makes the throttle response too sensitive, like the sport button an E46 M3 or E39 M5, etc.

DSC OFF like the car is meant to be driven and the throttle response goes back to normal mode. I don't understand how anyone could stand to drive this car in normal or TRACTION mode because it's a total throttle nazi and you can't have any fun.

**opinion time** The car sounds better with the flap open 100% of the time, just remove and plug the vacuum line going to the muffler. It's not very loud either way, just when you do a cold start in which case the valve is open whether you have the line hooked up or not.

[tock172]

Originally Posted by zx10guy

I just wished BMW would have made the activation mode of the Sport button persistent. If you activate Sport mode without turning it off when you shut the car down, it should fire back up in the same state. Not require you to constantly hit the button each time you start the car back up.

There are numerous reasons for this, one of them being fuel economy. The same logic applies to the start/stop features that is on by default in many new cars. You can disable it, but once you start the car again, it reverts to the factory setting.