2011 135i N55. DCT question!

[MCandrews]

Hey 1addicts!

I have been googling around for an answer on the power rating for the DCT. I have only come across assumptions, maybes, probably not's, and I would like to know if anyone actually knows the answer.

How much power/tq can the dct handle for a daily driver?

I'm about to go FBO, and I'm highly considering Pure stage 1 with a pro-tune with the FBO. what kind of issues am I looking at having and are there parts upgrade kits for the DCT? Will I need anything for my DCT to hold that power(~400hp/~450tq)?

Please, if you KNOW the answer to this and can provide sources I would really appreciate a response.

Please, no speculation.

Thanks in advance!

[JCip91]

Our clutch pack is the same as the one in the F10 M5 and that car has over 500 ft lbs of torque. So I would assume a little over that at least.

[cesarortiz23]

My car only has jb4 and dp and a 4 gallon e85 mix and my clutches tend to slip already
Like if I'm on 2nd and drop to first and wot it will slip throw me in to second instantly

I'm interested in knowing what is a next stage or just put a new clutch pack ?

[Yeineken]

You can upgrade the clutch. But be prepared to pay for it.

SSP has some nice kits.
https://www.sspperformance.com/bmw-d...ct-clutch.html

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by cesarortiz23

My car only has jb4 and dp and a 4 gallon e85 mix and my clutches tend to slip already
Like if I'm on 2nd and drop to first and wot it will slip throw me in to second instantly

I'm interested in knowing what is a next stage or just put a new clutch pack ?

My understanding is this is why running a JB4 is going to cause issues at higher states of power output. The JB4 has no control over the adjustments the DCT makes for clamping pressure with the clutch packs. This is why the suggestion of having a flash tune is always better than using a piggy back type setup for these cars especially if you have a DCT.

[cesarortiz23]

Originally Posted by zx10guy

My understanding is this is why running a JB4 is going to cause issues at higher states of power output. The JB4 has no control over the adjustments the DCT makes for clamping pressure with the clutch packs. This is why the suggestion of having a flash tune is always better than using a piggy back type setup for these cars especially if you have a DCT.

: hmmm

I see I have been thinking of doing a different tune besides jb4 and see if there is a huge difference

[HyeWarrior]

My two cents, had a JB4 with my N55 DCT and was not a fan at all. Ask most vendors/shops/techs, and most will tell you that flash software is better in every way.

I’m debating between a Dinan flash vs MHD currently

[JCip91]

Yeah the JB4 doesn't control how hard the clutches grab. A flash tune like MHD lets the DME see actual boost values and adjusts the clutch pressure accordingly. I have a JB4 and did notice some slippage but after I did the backend flash it ended that. Currently FBO with an e60 mix and haven't noticed slippage.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by cesarortiz23

My car only has jb4 and dp and a 4 gallon e85 mix and my clutches tend to slip already
Like if I'm on 2nd and drop to first and wot it will slip throw me in to second instantly

I'm interested in knowing what is a next stage or just put a new clutch pack ?

The next stage is to upgrade your car by removing the JB4 . Next best thing would be to install the BMS BEF so your TCU sees actual boost. Grab a long and look at what the DME boost value is. Your car is boosting 15psi, your TCU is seeing probably 5psi, so it doesn't apply much clamping force.

You are not near the power limits of the factory clutchpack. If you do decide to do the MHD BEF, you may as well uninstall the JB4 and go flash only. Get a custom tune from Ken at Wedge your car will run much better.

[cesarortiz23]

Originally Posted by houtan

The next stage is to upgrade your car by removing the JB4 . Next best thing would be to install the BMS BEF so your TCU sees actual boost. Grab a long and look at what the DME boost value is. Your car is boosting 15psi, your TCU is seeing probably 5psi, so it doesn't apply much clamping force.

You are not near the power limits of the factory clutchpack. If you do decide to do the MHD BEF, you may as well uninstall the JB4 and go flash only. Get a custom tune from Ken at Wedge your car will run much better.

That's what I want dude I ran jb4 because is the cheapest and fastest to do and you can do it on your own but

I need a for real tune man I want more power

I feel like my car can handle more power for some reason

I only see like 9 psi on my phone when ever I punch it lol

I'm new to the whole flashing tune where can I get that done here in SoCal


Is that MHD

Or is flashing tune like the actual tunning on the ecu

How much is that and where can I do it

What mods is needed ?

[BimmerAg]

Originally Posted by cesarortiz23

That's what I want dude I ran jb4 because is the cheapest and fastest to do and you can do it on your own but

I need a for real tune man I want more power

I feel like my car can handle more power for some reason

I only see like 9 psi on my phone when ever I punch it lol

I'm new to the whole flashing tune where can I get that done here in SoCal


Is that MHD

Or is flashing tune like the actual tunning on the ecu

How much is that and where can I do it

What mods is needed ?

MHD is a flash tune that writes a new map to the ECU. If your car is a 2011 or early 2012 you can do it yourself. You just need the proper cable to connect to your OBD port, an Android phone or tablet, and the MHD app.
Cable: $50 for the BimmerGeeks cable tested and guaranteed to work
Android tablet: $100 if you don't already have an Android phone
MHD flasher module: $199
MHD maps: $49
MHD monitor module: $69

For mods, they have different maps depending on your mods.
Stage 1: No mods (upgraded charge pipe recommended)
Stage 1+: Upgraded intercooler
Stage 2: Catless or high-flow downpipe
Stage 2+: Downpipe + intercooler