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09-08-2019, 11:55 AM | #1 |
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More Camber - Options?
Looking for some input here.
I'm currently running SPC camber plates on my 09 135i with Ohlin R&T coilover with Swift Springs & m3 control arms. The SPC plates for those who haven't come across them. They're very basic. In that they allow the strut to slide in both +/- directions. Right now I'm only able to get -2.2 degrees of camber (-2.3 max) on the driver's side. The passenger side can easily get to -2.8. The limitation appears to be the construction of the strut tower. (see image) I'd like to get closer to -3.0 on both sides. But with the strut tower on the driver's side limiting me. I think I need to explore other camber plate options. Any suggestions? Anyone have a similar issue with their car? The car primarily sees track use.
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09-08-2019, 01:26 PM | #2 |
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So if I'm seeing this correctly, the gold-ish ring is against the inner edge of the tower and the eye needs to line up with what is underneath-
Can you disassemble the camber plate to flip the gold ring 180 degrees? the eye is off center and you could bring the strut farther in if it was set the other way. On my TMS plates and the GC's my friend had, the top nut of the strut can be brought all the way in, touching the inside of the tower opening. |
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09-08-2019, 05:24 PM | #4 | |
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09-08-2019, 05:28 PM | #5 |
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there's still room on the plate to move over. just like on the passenger side. Every alignment I've had done, tops put at -2.3
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09-09-2019, 01:27 AM | #6 |
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Has your car been in an accident? If your subframe is shifted underneath to one side, it would explain why similar physical positions at the top equal very different camber.
For reference, my car with stock control arms and camber plates that put the top nut right against the edge of the strut tower opening provided almost exactly -2.8 degrees on each side, the difference was less than 0.1 degrees. To get more camber, your options are to cut the opening larger to move the top of the strut further inboard, or use a longer control arm in the bottom to move the bottom of the strut outboard. Without any rules on classing, I'd for sure be starting with the top, but I think there is something funky in your car I'd want to get to the bottom of first. -Mark
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09-09-2019, 06:45 AM | #7 |
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get rid of the strut tower brace, no matter what plates you use it's going to be a problem. You can also lengthen the slots
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09-10-2019, 11:30 AM | #8 | |
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-Mark
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09-13-2019, 09:16 AM | #9 |
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I'm running Ohlins with Vorshlag plates, built as a custom kit from 3DM. Barry built spacer rings that go on top of the plate, between the camber plate and the underside of the strut tower, that allows much more room for adjustment. Perhaps you could look into some sort of spacer so the adjuster can go past the strut tower.
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09-13-2019, 09:43 AM | #10 | |
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09-13-2019, 11:53 AM | #11 |
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Seems like the camber plate design is the issue. With Vorshlag plates and M3 arms my car is at -3.3 degrees up front, and it's not super low.
Alternatively, you could always gave aftermarket control arms, from Wisefab or similar, and run as much camber as you would like.
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09-13-2019, 05:52 PM | #12 |
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Vorshlag plates and SPL adjustable control arms here, -3.8 degrees and can go past 5 probably.
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09-14-2019, 07:06 AM | #13 | |
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09-14-2019, 07:09 AM | #14 | |
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09-14-2019, 07:11 AM | #15 | |
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Are the SPL arms worth the price?
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09-14-2019, 02:06 PM | #16 | |
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SPL makes amazing products. Adjustability is awesome. Ability to get camber out of the car without notching the towers and gaining some roll center back is awesome too. Here's my stance car at the track.
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09-14-2019, 03:28 PM | #17 | |
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09-14-2019, 10:44 PM | #18 | ||
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And you never know these days. Everyone's about that "stance". I have SPL sway bar end-links. Great stuff. Looks like they maybe able to solve my issues.
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camber kit, camber plates, suspension 135i, track build, track car, track day car |
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