BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 
 

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      10-09-2023, 04:46 PM   #19185
twinturbovan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donkeyshins View Post
Nice! I've heard that the E88 chassis is pretty stiff and doesn't give away much compared to the coupe - nice to see that in action on a track!
Yea tbh it does really amazing. I mean guys in Porsches and the guy in the Lotus were upset they couldnt pull away from me.
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      10-10-2023, 01:32 PM   #19186
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Better late than never, goodbye CDV, you won’t be missed
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      10-10-2023, 03:39 PM   #19187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinturbovan View Post
Yea tbh it does really amazing. I mean guys in Porsches and the guy in the Lotus were upset they couldnt pull away from me.

How do you get around having no roll bar? Typically in faster classes it’s mandatory ?
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      10-10-2023, 03:48 PM   #19188
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Originally Posted by woltersjason View Post
Better late than never, goodbye CDV, you won’t be missed
How hard was it to remove? Notice a big difference? Doing this on my e88 soon!
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      10-10-2023, 03:51 PM   #19189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucahemi@gmail.com View Post
How hard was it to remove? Notice a big difference? Doing this on my e88 soon!
Not hard at all, the clips on mine fought me a little but having a pick got it right out, as some others on here noted, plug the line with a finger right when you take it off. Did that and didn’t even need to top off the fluid. Made the exact difference I wanted, engagement on the clutch is so much better and predictable
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      10-10-2023, 05:23 PM   #19190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woltersjason View Post
Not hard at all, the clips on mine fought me a little but having a pick got it right out, as some others on here noted, plug the line with a finger right when you take it off. Did that and didn’t even need to top off the fluid. Made the exact difference I wanted, engagement on the clutch is so much better and predictable
Maybe the best bang for the buck modification.
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      10-11-2023, 07:13 AM   #19191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucahemi@gmail.com View Post
How do you get around having no roll bar? Typically in faster classes it’s mandatory ?
Since im not professionally competing yet a roll cage is not neccessary however oem roll bars are required which are included in the E88 behind the rear headrests. However we will be having a full cage made for my car this coming year! Im assuming my car should be in the faster classes if i ever do use it for competiton. The car has 526rwhp and 555lbs ft trq and i usually drive with the fastest sector of HPDE.
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      10-11-2023, 08:35 AM   #19192
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Originally Posted by Donkeyshins View Post
...This will be the second windshield I'll have to replace in a 6-month period
I've used repair kits, filled at least 5 cracks in my windshield with them & got very good results.
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      10-11-2023, 09:01 AM   #19193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K9Leader View Post
I put in new headlight housings on my 2011 128i - just plain old basic Halogens, no automatic leveling, just plain old manual adjustment. I've got the low beams adjusted up/down by turning the white wheel/knob in the first pic below. But there is this other white wheel/knob (second picture) but it has a little plug/cap in it (I assume to discourage fooling with it. But if you remove the plug it is the same as the other adjustment wheel. What does that control? Side-to-side? Or the up/down of the high beams (which I didn't think was something you could do on any car)?

My driver side high beam is pointing down too much - may be that the bulb is not seated square but I was wondering about that other adjuster wheel.
Yeah, just remove the rubber cap and it will be the adjustor wheel. Did you end up getting it aligned?
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      10-11-2023, 10:58 AM   #19194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray_Panther View Post
Yeah, just remove the rubber cap and it will be the adjustor wheel. Did you end up getting it aligned?
Yes, I pulled the bulb and reseated it and that resolved the issue. I must have had it in just slightly off.
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      10-11-2023, 11:05 AM   #19195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N55135i View Post
I've used repair kits, filled at least 5 cracks in my windshield with them & got very good results.
I think this kit is only for lamborghinis.

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      10-11-2023, 12:12 PM   #19196
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Got my ECS tuning sway-bar installed today, huzzah! Feels better but in my limited drive this morning of compacted slow moving traffic there was little chance to tell the difference. But, it was noticeable just need more time. I can do a brief mountain run on my lunch break.

This however marks the end of a three-week and three sway-bar saga with Nolathane. They make a bunch of heavy-duty sway bars and they make one in 30mm for the 1 series. I made a post a while back on getting the wrong sway bar, as the first one was meant for a 12-15 Camaro. Well a little over a week later I got my replacement from Nolathane and this one was "correct". So I get down and get this new bar installed, and it did clear the control arms like it was supposed to BUT NO! This could not be installed.

See, my theory is Nolathane copied Eibach's 28mm sway bar and upsized it to 30mm and called it a day. The thing is, this fatter bar pushes the mount/bracket over by a several mm as the bar bends right next to the mount location. So as you can see from my pic I couldn't align one bracket whatsoever. This reallllllyyy pissed me off, as I just love not getting a job done twice in a row. I got back in touch with them and they refunded my money. What I was not expecting was for them to not want the other bars (remember I still got the Camaro bar) returned, see pic. So now I have a Camaro sway-bar and a poorly engineered 128i sway-bar and now an ECS Tuning sway bar! I went to a couple cars and coffees this last weekend to try and give away the bar meant for a Camaro, but alas the usual Camaro clan was not there at either location.

Also that 30mm bar meant for the 128i was ridiculously heavy, like really heavy, holy hell...

I challenge anyone to find an example of an E90 or E82 that has one of these bars installed or any Nolathane fuck-huge sway bar anywhere on the net. I couldn't. I think they know that they don't fit for shit and are just hoping for the best when people install them. I mean...why would they not want the Camaro bar back???
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      10-11-2023, 12:24 PM   #19197
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was the 30 mm bar very much heavier than the ECS bar which actually fit?
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      10-11-2023, 12:29 PM   #19198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdt10768 View Post
was the 30 mm bar very much heavier than the ECS bar which actually fit?
Yeah by a couple pounds at least. The ECS one I could wield like a weapon, the Nolathane not so much...
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      10-11-2023, 12:44 PM   #19199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrathOTM View Post
Yeah by a couple pounds at least. The ECS one I could wield like a weapon, the Nolathane not so much...
I guess you'll need to start working out more to wield the Nolathane like Conan das Barbarian
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      10-11-2023, 01:55 PM   #19200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrathOTM View Post
Got my ECS tuning sway-bar installed today, huzzah! Feels better but in my limited drive this morning of compacted slow moving traffic there was little chance to tell the difference. But, it was noticeable just need more time. I can do a brief mountain run on my lunch break.

This however marks the end of a three-week and three sway-bar saga with Nolathane. They make a bunch of heavy-duty sway bars and they make one in 30mm for the 1 series. I made a post a while back on getting the wrong sway bar, as the first one was meant for a 12-15 Camaro. Well a little over a week later I got my replacement from Nolathane and this one was "correct". So I get down and get this new bar installed, and it did clear the control arms like it was supposed to BUT NO! This could not be installed.

See, my theory is Nolathane copied Eibach's 28mm sway bar and upsized it to 30mm and called it a day. The thing is, this fatter bar pushes the mount/bracket over by a several mm as the bar bends right next to the mount location. So as you can see from my pic I couldn't align one bracket whatsoever. This reallllllyyy pissed me off, as I just love not getting a job done twice in a row. I got back in touch with them and they refunded my money. What I was not expecting was for them to not want the other bars (remember I still got the Camaro bar) returned, see pic. So now I have a Camaro sway-bar and a poorly engineered 128i sway-bar and now an ECS Tuning sway bar! I went to a couple cars and coffees this last weekend to try and give away the bar meant for a Camaro, but alas the usual Camaro clan was not there at either location.

Also that 30mm bar meant for the 128i was ridiculously heavy, like really heavy, holy hell...

I challenge anyone to find an example of an E90 or E82 that has one of these bars installed or any Nolathane fuck-huge sway bar anywhere on the net. I couldn't. I think they know that they don't fit for shit and are just hoping for the best when people install them. I mean...why would they not want the Camaro bar back???
It sucks when car upgrade day turns into a total mind-fk.
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      10-12-2023, 08:41 AM   #19201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrathOTM View Post
...Also that 30mm bar meant for the 128i was ridiculously heavy, like really heavy, holy hell...
Adding weight is a sin, look into some carbon fiber options lately?
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      10-12-2023, 08:51 AM   #19202
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Adding weight is a sin, look into some carbon fiber options lately?
Such a deal, save $1000 - purchase Now and SAVE !!!
Or maybe just change your diet, and lost 10 lb?
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      10-12-2023, 10:44 AM   #19203
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Originally Posted by N55135i View Post
Adding weight is a sin, look into some carbon fiber options lately?
Hory sheeeeet that's pricey! And I thought the CF strut tower bar was $$$ ...I'm going with jdt10768 by eating healthy and working out.

edit: I started typing the sku number and realized that it is for a Porsche. Kinda was hoping it was for our car...
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      10-12-2023, 06:55 PM   #19204
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Hi I did exactly as you said but the middle brake light is lit in the tail light, do you know how to fix this? Its really making me wonder
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Originally Posted by Suprgnat View Post
After 8 long years I got around to fully enabling the Xenon Blackline tail lights' LED strips on my halogen equipped LCI car.

For power to the LED strips I ran wires from the outer connectors on the taillights, X318-1 (right) and X319-1 (left) and tapped into the Gray/Brown wire going to the license plate lights.

The BMW ELO socket for the connector P/N is 61138364832

Then I fired up Pro Tool and using the FRM "Standard" list coded:

Rear Fogs as Standing Lights
PWM_NSL_FKT_SL Value 01 (was 03)

Parking Lights with Brake Lights
PARKL_FKT_MIT_BL Disabled (was Enabled)

Standing Lights with Brake Lights
SL_FKT_MIT_BL Disabled (was Enabled)

Everything works perfectly with no annoying lights backlighting the LED strip.
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      10-12-2023, 07:06 PM   #19205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrathOTM View Post
Yeah by a couple pounds at least. The ECS one I could wield like a weapon, the Nolathane not so much...
I strongly encourage you to tune your suspension with actual spring rate via springs and not effective spring rate adjustment by bar. Stiff bars will ultimately reduce traction.

I've had success with the stock 135i bar and some of my cohort are actually running nonM front bars. I do recommend using stiff mounts as it translates the force to the bar faster.

Other thing is that these big bars are just needless weight in the front of the car. Lose lose lose.
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      10-12-2023, 10:11 PM   #19206
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[QUOTE=ShocknAwe;30565587]I strongly encourage you to tune your suspension with actual spring rate via springs and not effective spring rate adjustment by bar. Stiff bars will ultimately reduce traction.

Thank you for the advice, I do wish to do more suspension tuning on my car as I can but I can't really do any more on my build until next year. The ECS bar, so far has been an improvement. Sure it is heavier but not by more than a few pounds, but I won't argue against having a lighter front end. That Nolathane monstrosity weighed a fuckton and I'm glad I couldn't install it. Now I've had an Eibach rear sway bar on my car for a few months but had a factory front. In my setup with the factory front on swift springs I consistently trigger traction control when plowin' the twistys. Even taking turns at normal speed it goes off. It started doing that once the Eibach one got installed, combined at the time with new swift springs Yes I know, no LSD. An LSD would be freakin' swell but I don't have the cash to get one yet. And I swear I plan to. But with the new front sway I can feel the front end turn in faster and it seems like the car is more cohesive. I think the TC lights are coming on less so far but it's only been a couple days. Thankfully I do work near some mountain roads so I can make a visit on my lunch break. And so far I like the improvement, but I still need more seat time.
Next planned item in the coming months and last basic 128i suspension part is rear toe links, as I just put in regular factory fresh ones in on my recent sus rebuild. Though I may do some new fogs or something first. Or finally fit my 135i front brakes.
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