Just finished my manual swap. First gear is super slow.

[Blau]

As the title states, starting from first gear is insanely slow. Same with reverse. Basically anytime the car is stopped and then has to move again. When car is at speed it feels great. Feels like some sort of limp mode.

My brake lights are also always on.

I think I'm leaking from the clutch lines, gotta sort that out.

I now have a brake and accelerator error...

Headaches and questions of where to start. Fun.

Current state:
Exhaust not installed, waiting to button it up till all my troubleshooting is done.

I have a few codes I have to track down. See pics from Protool.

[cerealwars]

Check any wiring you already tampered with during the swap. Check that all grounds and connections are good. The trans codes sound pretty generic - like the whole module is unplugged or something. If you need pictures/reference from a factory manual trans car, let me know and maybe I can get it for you.

Also, if those are upstream o2 codes (and they probably aren't), I would at least get those plugged in just to rule some things out.

For the brake lights stuck on, make sure the pedal switch is correctly adjusted. Sorry if a lot of this "advice" is too obvious/on the nose.

It's gotta feel good to be back on the road! Honestly a lot of these issues just sound like things you will figure out by putting some more hours in investigating. So, just sleep on it and bring your best brain to continue troubleshooting.

[Spielmp3206]

did you adjust the VO of your car? you might have to update some of the ECUs to let them know that the car is a manual otherwise the engine ecu might still be looking for the responses from the transmission and by not getting them it is going into a fault state.

[Blau]

Originally Posted by Spielmp3206

did you adjust the VO of your car? you might have to update some of the ECUs to let them know that the car is a manual otherwise the engine ecu might still be looking for the responses from the transmission and by not getting them it is going into a fault state.

I coded out the auto using Bimmergeeks Protool. That took care of letting the FRM, ECU and CAS know that it's no longer an auto. I know the clutch switch wiring is good too because the car starts only when the clutch is engaged.

The car is definitely still looking for an auto tho, just not sure where to look to try to get it to stop. $205 is the auto coding and it's unchecked when I look for it in Protool.

I will definitely circle back and double check all wiring. I am going to move my ground no matter what because I think that junction box under the carpet isn't the best spot. That's where I believe my electrical interference is stemming from.

My other concerns have to do with the gas/brake pedal. That error popped up well after I did my initial test drive. I know that they're connected because the car moves when I step on the gas and it brakes when I step on the gas. This doesn't seem to be a wiring issue, though I will certainly double check.

Lastly, there is the clicking/tapping sound when the car is rolling. It also clunks when it's put into gear, so I am thinking that my driveshaft the issue. Going to order a rebuilt one today so I don't have to worry about tired u-joints.

It's good to have it rolling. And shifting from 3rd gear on, at speed, is a wonderful feeling. Can't wait to button this thing up and put my Honda Fit to sleep for a while.

[Blau]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

Check any wiring you already tampered with during the swap. Check that all grounds and connections are good. The trans codes sound pretty generic - like the whole module is unplugged or something. If you need pictures/reference from a factory manual trans car, let me know and maybe I can get it for you.

Also, if those are upstream o2 codes (and they probably aren't), I would at least get those plugged in just to rule some things out.

For the brake lights stuck on, make sure the pedal switch is correctly adjusted. Sorry if a lot of this "advice" is too obvious/on the nose.

It's gotta feel good to be back on the road! Honestly a lot of these issues just sound like things you will figure out by putting some more hours in investigating. So, just sleep on it and bring your best brain to continue troubleshooting.

I'm a bit worried about my o2 sensors... They got a bunch of wd-40 on them while I was drilling out the exhaust flange studs. 😞

What should I check for what the pedal switch? I'm trying to put my head in a place where I can see the wiring... Do you mean the clutch switch that I had to wire up or is there something else?

Thanks for the tips! I'll be spending some time in the garage tonight trying to figure more of this out.

[cerealwars]

Here's a tech article from pelicanparts on replacing the switch on an E90. I have to assume it'd be the same for our cars.

[Blau]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

Here's a tech article from pelicanparts on replacing the switch on an E90. I have to assume it'd be the same for our cars.

Well, the brake lights are working correctly now... I swapped over the brake switch from my old pedals and that seemed to fix it.

I moved the ground to a new post, but that didn't help the errors. The folks at Protool can't figure out why I can't clear my adaptations, so I wonder if I have a wiring issue somewhere. Kinda crazy tho, I just traced every wire and they're all connected fine. I used solder and shrink tube as well...

When I clear the codes there is this brief period before they re-register. In those few moments my gas pedal revs like it should. As soon as it registers the codes, it goes back to limp pedal...

Hopefully this means everything is mechanically sound. So... Now to figure out the coding and/or wiring...

[Blau]

Originally Posted by Blau

Well, the brake lights are working correctly now... I swapped over the brake switch from my old pedals and that seemed to fix it.

I moved the ground to a new post, but that didn't help the errors. The folks at Protool can't figure out why I can't clear my adaptations, so I wonder if I have a wiring issue somewhere. Kinda crazy tho, I just traced every wire and they're all connected fine. I used solder and shrink tube as well...

When I clear the codes there is this brief period before they re-register. In those few moments my gas pedal revs like it should. As soon as it registers the codes, it goes back to limp pedal...

Hopefully this means everything is mechanically sound. So... Now to figure out the coding and/or wiring...

Somehow I got the ECU to rewrite to new and it cleared the trans codes. Woohoo! I got to feel first gear the right way and all I can say is this is how the car should have felt the whole time. Wow!

Now to deal with this ticking/tapping sound. Happens if the car is rolling. Its almost like if there is something that taps every revolution. I know I may need a driveshaft, but I'm not sure it would make this noise.

The noise is akin to a freehub on a 10 speed bike. Any idea where to start looking?

[cerealwars]

Dude! You got that figured out quickly.

It might sound sketchy (and I guess it is a little bit), but if I had a noise like that, I'd put the back end up on stands and let it idle in first gear while I had a look around underneath.

Or - maybe a little safer - just leave it in neutral and roll the tires over by hand with it up in the air.

[Blau]

Originally Posted by cerealwars

Dude! You got that figured out quickly.

It might sound sketchy (and I guess it is a little bit), but if I had a noise like that, I'd put the back end up on stands and let it idle in first gear while I had a look around underneath.

Or - maybe a little safer - just leave it in neutral and roll the tires over by hand with it up in the air.

That's next.

It's funny because after tinkering around a bit more I ended up with a throttle code 🥴

I figure I need to charge the battery because a low battery makes the car act weird. I also need to put the exhaust back on and put some miles on it before I try to nail down every new code that pops up.

Next steps:
Locate the "freehub" type sound
Fix whatever that is
Replace driveshaft if needed
Put all my panels and under trays back on
Re-install exhaust
Send it

[spidertri]

For the clicking noise, can you tell what RPM it seems to be happening at? Engine speed? Wheel speed? Something else?

Can you tell if it's at the front or rear of the car?

First thing that came to mind was if the center support bearing on the driveshaft was preloaded, but I'm honestly not sure if that's a thing with these cars, I haven't taken my driveshaft off yet. On older BMWs you had to push the CSB to preload it as you tightened the mounting bolts down.


Second thought is something rotating that is just barely making contact with another part. Over time it would self clearance most likely, not that that's a good thing, but if that were the case the noise would go away on its own.

[Blau]

Originally Posted by spidertri

For the clicking noise, can you tell what RPM it seems to be happening at? Engine speed? Wheel speed? Something else?

Can you tell if it's at the front or rear of the car?

First thing that came to mind was if the center support bearing on the driveshaft was preloaded, but I'm honestly not sure if that's a thing with these cars, I haven't taken my driveshaft off yet. On older BMWs you had to push the CSB to preload it as you tightened the mounting bolts down.


Second thought is something rotating that is just barely making contact with another part. Over time it would self clearance most likely, not that that's a good thing, but if that were the case the noise would go away on its own.

It's not RPM related, it just starts once I'm rolling.

I did preload the CSB but pushing it forward as I tightened it down. I do wonder if I trashed it while fighting to get that pipe off of the splines.

I'll put the car up on stands and have it roll to see if I can figure it out.

Thx!

[spidertri]

Oh, here's one thing that happened to me after I reinstalled the diff. The metal dust shields on the input and output flanges, the output shields were tweaked slightly and it was causing a scraping noise as the axles rotated.

I just adjusted them back into shape and the noise went away.

[Blau]

Adaptations reset, that was a bitch b/c Protool wouldn't work. Ended up finding a work around that I'm not sure I could articulate. Afterwards I had throttle issues, but the car level adaptations reset worked to do it (the Protool level reset will NOT work).

No errors as of right now. Car feels great.

The noise was a loose guibo bolt.

[mkeiser]

awesome!