What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[parameter416]

Originally Posted by Fishee

https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/r...n-box.1335877/

Good to know - thanks! In my case the corrosion and damage occurred at the hood latch itself, not at the junction box, but I'll check both locations this week.

[ml26]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

Aren't there a couple lubrication points on the hood release cable/housing that need attention every so often? Will look in diy . . .

here —> https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...t=hood+release

That thread is hilarious. Boys will be boys. 🤣

[CoralRed]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

I had mine for 13 years and loved it, but got the itch for something different. At about 10 years I started considering another car, and it took like 3 more years to decide on one (new Z4 with a manual). My coworker said if / when he sells it someday I'll be first to know in case I want it back haha. If I actually had a huge garage for a lot of cars I'd likely have kept it and gone the next steps to prep it for an occasional track day or autocross. I expect the Z4 to be pretty great as well, but definitely different. Not better or worse, just great, and different. Fingers crossed anyhow.

I absolutely love my 135i. I just needed something more practical (long story short I currently own two e91s) and owning multiple cars in Texas without the ability to park them all inside (heat and hail) isn’t a good plan. So, engine swapped e91 it is…

I’m very curious about the manual z4. I look forward to your thoughts on it! If we didn’t already have an s54 m roadster (it loves at my parents house) I’d be all over it.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by parameter416

In my case the actual steel cable hadn't snapped. It had been slowly stretching for years, and the plastic coupling at the hood latch had been pulling apart, exposing the cable to moisture intrusion. I think it had started before I bought the car (I was amazed how easy it was to open the hood after I replaced the cable). Eventually the plastic coupling finally let go - in the photo you can see the plastic had pulled apart and finally snapped into 2 parts. I was surprised how badly the cable had rusted.

I better check mine. Thanks for sharing.
🫶🏻

[Afam28]

Picked up some Alcantara interior trim pieces…
I guess while I’m at it I should look into a Alcantara steering wheel, rear seat delete, half cage and racing seats…

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by Afam28

Picked up some Alcantara interior trim pieces…
I guess while I’m at it I should look into a Alcantara steering wheel, rear seat delete, half cage and racing seats…

Now that's a snowball.....

I like the way you think.

[tjswarbrick]

It had been 7 years, and they were getting slightly yellow and cloudy.

Headlight Restoration:

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

It had been 7 years, and they were getting slightly yellow and cloudy.

Headlight Restoration:

Nice. I ordered the Maguiars Heavy Duty Headlight Restoration kit for my e90. I have done it in the past and they come out great every time. I Will do my E88 as well but its not as Bad like my E90.

[ShocknAwe]

Evolution of Speed BPM4 Installed.

Absolutely amazing kit.

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Nice. I ordered the Maguiars Heavy Duty Headlight Restoration kit for my e90. I have done it in the past and they come out great every time. I Will do my E88 as well but its not as Bad like my E90.

I had the wool buff pad and Headlight Coating leftover from previous efforts, and bought more PlastX. For the rest, I improvised.
I masked off the paint with blue tape - you can see the residue in the (blurry) close-up shots.
Lightly wet-sanded with 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000. Followed by Meg's 105 on an orange pad, 205 on white, Flitz on white, Meg's Ultimate Polish on black, and finally the PlastX on the wool buff. Most buffed out with microfiber, but used a terry cloth followed by MF for the final step.
Then cleaned off residue with Invisible Glass before spraying on the coating and allowing it to cure overnight.

I'll be really happy if I get another 7 years out of it!

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

I had the wool buff pad and Headlight Coating leftover from previous efforts, and bought more PlastX. For the rest, I improvised.
I masked off the paint with blue tape - you can see the residue in the (blurry) close-up shots.
Lightly wet-sanded with 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000. Followed by Meg's 105 on an orange pad, 205 on white, Flitz on white, Meg's Ultimate Polish on black, and finally the PlastX on the wool buff. Most buffed out with microfiber, but used a terry cloth followed by MF for the final step.
Then cleaned off residue with Invisible Glass before spraying on the coating and allowing it to cure overnight.

I'll be really happy if I get another 7 years out of it!

Cool I am planning to the work for the weekend. Ill post the before after photos too. 😉

[mkeiser]

So yesterday I had my car give me the yellow overheating warning and then loss of power. I shut the car off while I was waiting at a light and then turned it back on when it turned green and the warning didn't return for rest of the ~10 minute trip.

It was about 70*F yesterday evening, I was sitting in the drive through for about 5 minutes with my a/c on auto 71*F medium fan. After I pulled out of the drive through the overheating warning came on.

I'm going to monitor the situation and see if any shadow codes are stored. I'm hoping it's not water pump/tstat related since I just replaced those two years ago. At least parts would be free since it's FCP...

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by mkeiser

I'm hoping it's not water pump/tstat related since I just replaced those two years ago. At least parts would be free since it's FCP...

Ugh, good luck. Sure does sound like the WP. I wonder about some way to monitor its spin speed, make sure it's turning, as well as communicating, in real time. Carly or some other reader.

You should definitely see some codes... I remember having a few when mine died, on both cars actually (X3 with the N55).

[mkeiser]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Ugh, good luck. Sure does sound like the WP. I wonder about some way to monitor its spin speed, make sure it's turning, as well as communicating, in real time. Carly or some other reader.

You should definitely see some codes... I remember having a few when mine died, on both cars actually (X3 with the N55).

confirmed water pump...

2E83 Elektrische Kühlmittelpumpe, leistrungsreduzierter Betrieb

also have a 2A87 Auslass-VANOS, Mechanik...



edit; so past Mike was dumb and ordered a Bav Auto water pump through ECS Tuning. Out of warranty and ordered before they started their lifetime warranty program. BLEH!

[Funky Cold Medina]

Originally Posted by Almuliman

Not helpful (for me trying to stay away from the control arms upgrade ). Did you go with OE or OEM arms?

I went with OEM, ECS Tuning

[Funky Cold Medina]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

I'm also interested in the ctrl arms upgrade. How $$$, and which brand did you use pls?

ECS tuning OEM, made by TRW. Cost around $400.

The front end is much more "reliable" and consistent. Stock control arms allowed for a "breaking point" when making quick maneuvers, or when near the limit on a fast sweeper (such as a highway ramp). Stock arms had a tendency to "give" and sort of upset the car. None of that with the M3 control arms.

Very much worth the money.

[Gray_Panther]

Just purchased an N55 muffler from a 2011 135i on marketa. Should arrive by next Friday. Saw some videos on youtube and other forum posts and hoping for great results.

[WrathOTM]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Just purchased an N55 muffler from a 2011 135i on marketa. Should arrive by next Friday. Saw some videos on youtube and other forum posts and hoping for great results.

Post results, strongly thinking of doing this too.

[mkeiser]

I cleared codes, went on a short drive, then checked for codes again and there was nothing. I'm still gonna swap out the water pump tho...

[Afam28]

Originally Posted by mkeiser

I cleared codes, went on a short drive, then checked for codes again and there was nothing. I'm still gonna swap out the water pump tho...

I’m assuming it’s on its way out…

[duperdog]

Originally Posted by Funky Cold Medina

ECS tuning OEM, made by TRW. Cost around $400.

The front end is much more "reliable" and consistent. Stock control arms allowed for a "breaking point" when making quick maneuvers, or when near the limit on a fast sweeper (such as a highway ramp). Stock arms had a tendency to "give" and sort of upset the car. None of that with the M3 control arms.

Very much worth the money.

I've purchased the arms and Dinan fixed camber plates. How long did it take to install the control arms? It doesn't look too bad from the FCP Euro video I watched.

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by duperdog

I've purchased the arms and Dinan fixed camber plates. How long did it take to install the control arms? It doesn't look too bad from the FCP Euro video I watched.

Pretty simple. Need to be able to pop the threaded ball joint with an appropriate tool.

I slightly filed the edges of the box the arm slides into with a small bevel since it is a very close fit. Others have spread it slightly with a crescent wrench or hammer.

You will need an alignment right after.




It is a great mod and well worth doing. You will be very pleased.