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      05-22-2024, 06:44 AM   #20087
Ric in RVA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Afam28 View Post
Picked up some Alcantara interior trim pieces…
I guess while I’m at it I should look into a Alcantara steering wheel, rear seat delete, half cage and racing seats…
Now that's a snowball.....

I like the way you think.
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      05-22-2024, 03:24 PM   #20088
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It had been 7 years, and they were getting slightly yellow and cloudy.

Headlight Restoration:





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      05-22-2024, 04:17 PM   #20089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post
It had been 7 years, and they were getting slightly yellow and cloudy.

Headlight Restoration:





Nice. I ordered the Maguiars Heavy Duty Headlight Restoration kit for my e90. I have done it in the past and they come out great every time. I Will do my E88 as well but its not as Bad like my E90.
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      05-22-2024, 05:12 PM   #20090
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Evolution of Speed BPM4 Installed.

Absolutely amazing kit.
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      05-22-2024, 05:42 PM   #20091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
Nice. I ordered the Maguiars Heavy Duty Headlight Restoration kit for my e90. I have done it in the past and they come out great every time. I Will do my E88 as well but its not as Bad like my E90.
I had the wool buff pad and Headlight Coating leftover from previous efforts, and bought more PlastX. For the rest, I improvised.
I masked off the paint with blue tape - you can see the residue in the (blurry) close-up shots.
Lightly wet-sanded with 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000. Followed by Meg's 105 on an orange pad, 205 on white, Flitz on white, Meg's Ultimate Polish on black, and finally the PlastX on the wool buff. Most buffed out with microfiber, but used a terry cloth followed by MF for the final step.
Then cleaned off residue with Invisible Glass before spraying on the coating and allowing it to cure overnight.

I'll be really happy if I get another 7 years out of it!
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      05-22-2024, 06:17 PM   #20092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post
I had the wool buff pad and Headlight Coating leftover from previous efforts, and bought more PlastX. For the rest, I improvised.
I masked off the paint with blue tape - you can see the residue in the (blurry) close-up shots.
Lightly wet-sanded with 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000. Followed by Meg's 105 on an orange pad, 205 on white, Flitz on white, Meg's Ultimate Polish on black, and finally the PlastX on the wool buff. Most buffed out with microfiber, but used a terry cloth followed by MF for the final step.
Then cleaned off residue with Invisible Glass before spraying on the coating and allowing it to cure overnight.

I'll be really happy if I get another 7 years out of it!

Cool I am planning to the work for the weekend. Ill post the before after photos too. 😉
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      05-23-2024, 02:37 PM   #20093
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So yesterday I had my car give me the yellow overheating warning and then loss of power. I shut the car off while I was waiting at a light and then turned it back on when it turned green and the warning didn't return for rest of the ~10 minute trip.

It was about 70*F yesterday evening, I was sitting in the drive through for about 5 minutes with my a/c on auto 71*F medium fan. After I pulled out of the drive through the overheating warning came on.

I'm going to monitor the situation and see if any shadow codes are stored. I'm hoping it's not water pump/tstat related since I just replaced those two years ago. At least parts would be free since it's FCP...
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      05-23-2024, 04:54 PM   #20094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkeiser View Post
I'm hoping it's not water pump/tstat related since I just replaced those two years ago. At least parts would be free since it's FCP...
Ugh, good luck. Sure does sound like the WP. I wonder about some way to monitor its spin speed, make sure it's turning, as well as communicating, in real time. Carly or some other reader.

You should definitely see some codes... I remember having a few when mine died, on both cars actually (X3 with the N55).
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      05-23-2024, 06:14 PM   #20095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
Ugh, good luck. Sure does sound like the WP. I wonder about some way to monitor its spin speed, make sure it's turning, as well as communicating, in real time. Carly or some other reader.

You should definitely see some codes... I remember having a few when mine died, on both cars actually (X3 with the N55).
confirmed water pump...

2E83 Elektrische Kühlmittelpumpe, leistrungsreduzierter Betrieb

also have a 2A87 Auslass-VANOS, Mechanik...



edit; so past Mike was dumb and ordered a Bav Auto water pump through ECS Tuning. Out of warranty and ordered before they started their lifetime warranty program. BLEH!
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Last edited by mkeiser; 05-23-2024 at 06:27 PM..
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      05-23-2024, 10:11 PM   #20096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Almuliman View Post
Not helpful (for me trying to stay away from the control arms upgrade ). Did you go with OE or OEM arms?
I went with OEM, ECS Tuning
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      05-23-2024, 10:18 PM   #20097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdt10768 View Post
I'm also interested in the ctrl arms upgrade. How $$$, and which brand did you use pls?
ECS tuning OEM, made by TRW. Cost around $400.

The front end is much more "reliable" and consistent. Stock control arms allowed for a "breaking point" when making quick maneuvers, or when near the limit on a fast sweeper (such as a highway ramp). Stock arms had a tendency to "give" and sort of upset the car. None of that with the M3 control arms.

Very much worth the money.
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      05-24-2024, 09:46 AM   #20098
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Just purchased an N55 muffler from a 2011 135i on marketa. Should arrive by next Friday. Saw some videos on youtube and other forum posts and hoping for great results.
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      05-24-2024, 11:57 AM   #20099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray_Panther View Post
Just purchased an N55 muffler from a 2011 135i on marketa. Should arrive by next Friday. Saw some videos on youtube and other forum posts and hoping for great results.
Post results, strongly thinking of doing this too.
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      05-25-2024, 06:22 AM   #20100
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I cleared codes, went on a short drive, then checked for codes again and there was nothing. I'm still gonna swap out the water pump tho...
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      05-25-2024, 11:31 PM   #20101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkeiser View Post
I cleared codes, went on a short drive, then checked for codes again and there was nothing. I'm still gonna swap out the water pump tho...
I’m assuming it’s on its way out…
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      05-26-2024, 06:09 PM   #20102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funky Cold Medina View Post
ECS tuning OEM, made by TRW. Cost around $400.

The front end is much more "reliable" and consistent. Stock control arms allowed for a "breaking point" when making quick maneuvers, or when near the limit on a fast sweeper (such as a highway ramp). Stock arms had a tendency to "give" and sort of upset the car. None of that with the M3 control arms.

Very much worth the money.
I've purchased the arms and Dinan fixed camber plates. How long did it take to install the control arms? It doesn't look too bad from the FCP Euro video I watched.
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      05-26-2024, 10:24 PM   #20103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duperdog View Post
I've purchased the arms and Dinan fixed camber plates. How long did it take to install the control arms? It doesn't look too bad from the FCP Euro video I watched.
Pretty simple. Need to be able to pop the threaded ball joint with an appropriate tool.

I slightly filed the edges of the box the arm slides into with a small bevel since it is a very close fit. Others have spread it slightly with a crescent wrench or hammer.

You will need an alignment right after.




It is a great mod and well worth doing. You will be very pleased.
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      05-27-2024, 12:11 PM   #20104
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Since these stink bugs started appearing where I live, I've gotten used to them buzzing around outside and getting into the house and have just accepted they are a part of life now. But not in my Little Red 128i! Oh, Hell No!



Pulled the housing off and got that dried up little carcass out of there. Decided it would be a good time to replace a bunch of bulbs, as well. The turn signal bulb's amber coating was all dried, cracked, and peeling so it's been in there a while.
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      05-27-2024, 05:01 PM   #20105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
I better check mine. Thanks for sharing.
🫶🏻
I used a little white lithium grease at the hood latch and inside the junction box. It might be just the placebo effect, but the hood release seems to operate more smoothly, take less effort now.
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      05-27-2024, 06:14 PM   #20106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K9Leader View Post
Since these stink bugs started appearing where I live, I've gotten used to them buzzing around outside and getting into the house and have just accepted they are a part of life now. But not in my Little Red 128i! Oh, Hell No!



Pulled the housing off and got that dried up little carcass out of there. Decided it would be a good time to replace a bunch of bulbs, as well. The turn signal bulb's amber coating was all dried, cracked, and peeling so it's been in there a while.
Glad you were able to get that freeloader out of there.
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      05-27-2024, 11:11 PM   #20107
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Mostly spent this weekend helping my son with his E46 (coolant leak in the inlet pipe - which means disassembling pretty much everything on the intake side of the head). However, I did spend 20 minutes swapping out the HomeLink unit in my mirror with one from a 2012 F10 and now I don't need the little clip-on fob for my LiftMaster garage door opener.
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      05-28-2024, 01:59 PM   #20108
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$175 bucks later and I have a clean N55 backbox (axleback?) muffler.
Seems like the original owner upgraded the exhaust shortly after acquiring the 135i new.
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