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| 06-19-2024, 06:16 PM | #1 |
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Lieutenant
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Rep 439
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Oil pan removal/installation on 135, probably the same for the 128.
Before I get started I wanted to share the reason I removed my oil pan in the first place. I have a '11 135i with a weld in VDO oil pan baffle but my pan had a crack as seen in the picture below. Because I had the baffle I wanted to just repair the pan rather than replace it. I took it to a welder that assured me he could weld a "used" oil pan as the heat would "burn off any contaminants", so I left him have a go at it. The repair ended up cracking when I reinstalled the pan. Below are the steps I took to remove the oil pan and reinstalling the pan was reversing the order. Just thought I'd share in case anyone else was thinking about removing their pan. In the end it looks like I'm going to be getting a new pan anyway.
Steps to remove the pan after the car is securely lifted. Remove: Intake inlet attached to core support. Trans cooler from cooling fan. Cooling fan. Front anti-roll bar. Coolant crossover line on top of front subframe. Steering shaft to power steering rack. Power steering rack from front subframe (leave attached to steering knuckles). Both lower control arms on each side (note the headlight leveler is attached to the driver’s side). Bottom motor mount bolts (loosed top nut to make installation easy). Front subframe (will not fully come off unless the power steering lines are disconnected but will lower enough to allow the oil pan to be removed). Loosen power steering pulley bolts (do not remove with belt on). Serpentine belt. Power steering pulley. Power steering pump from oil pan. Trans cooling lines from oil pan. Oil pan (after disconnecting the oil level sensor). Crack in pan: Baffle in pan: Repair before install: While I'm in there: Crack after install: JB Weld "temporary repair":
__________________
Jim
2011 1M35i DCT - FBO BB3.4 - 6?? RWHP - 100-200 KPH 5.21 IG: JimmyPneumaticTuning ![]() |
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