Another crank no start

MikeAcc · 06-29-2021, 07:03 AM

Hey guys,

I recently purchased a salvaged 2008 135i that only had minor suspension damage from a local pick and save scrap yard to use as a work/winter beater so I don’t mess up my 2013 128i thats in great shape ( I know I know I am trying to keep the wrong car nice) as I Live in Canada.

Anyways, I bought the car with the stipulation that it runs and drives on to the trailer without shutting off. The scrap yard did get it running and driving, but as I later found out they did it by jumping power from one fuse to the bank of fuses that terminal 13 of the DME powers by providing ground to K3600 relay. When the section of fuses has power jumped to it the car runs normal; no missing or rough idle or anything like that. I have been inspecting wiring using a multi meter to see if I maybe a corroded or broken wire is the issue with no luck. Note the previous owner had cut into a few wires to run some sort of piggyback ECU, but I have reconnected and checked all those wires and they are all functioning properly. Since then I have also changed the MAP and CPS since they both had broken clips on them and looked as old as the car and did the oil filter housing gaskets and changed the valve cover as it was cracked because both were leaking oil like crazy and and the valve cover had a crack JB welded together. I have also tried reprogramming the ECU to stock using NCS expert (incase the previous piggyback ECU had flashed the DME with a tune that would prevent it from starting).

I have seen so many crank no start posts for e9xs and e8xs and tried following all the diagnostics (many provided by a George [gbalthorp] who clearly knows his stuff), but still no luck. I am now at a point where I think it is likely the DME that is fried, but just wanted to post here first to see if anyone has some insight on something I may have missed.

I have pulled codes from the car and have the last 7 digits of the VIN if anyone is willing to take a quick look. The last 7 digits of the VIN are VF24915. The pending codes are as follows:
JBBF - A6CF
DME - 2ACC, 2ACB, 2E85
DSC - 5E19
CAS - A0B4
FZD - A670
FRM - 9CC0, 9CBF

Also, if anyone has suggestions of where to get my DME cloned that would be appreciated in the event I need to replace it.

Mike

tino_tino · 02-13-2025, 06:08 AM

did you fix this?

I've got the same three DME codes.

tino_tino · 02-13-2025, 07:52 AM

My issue was pin 13 on the ECU. It has been mentioned as an issue on another thread elsewhere. I noticed some corrosion on the ECU and in the connector. Tried cleaning it and as I was cleaning it I noticed there was a pin missing on the ECU. When I looked in the connector the pin had snapped off and was stuck in the connector. Basically corroded / rusted and is now stuck in the connector.

As a temporary workaround I put a bit of welding wire about 8mm long into the connector side and then pushed the connector back onto the ECU and it started. Obviously a proper fix is required but not sure at this point without further research how to replace the missing pin.

tino_tino · 02-13-2025, 10:05 AM

Another site suggests using the neighbouring pin 12 as a replacement. Supposedly pin 12 is unused. So just a case of opening the ECU, bridging pin 13 to pin 12 internally on the inside of the ECU and then bridging the same two wires on the outside on the connector. Will try it and see how it goes.

06-29-2021, 07:03 AM	#1
MikeAcc MikeAcc 3 Rep 8 Posts Drives: BMW 128i Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Toronto, Ontario iTrader: (0)	Another crank no start Hey guys, I recently purchased a salvaged 2008 135i that only had minor suspension damage from a local pick and save scrap yard to use as a work/winter beater so I don’t mess up my 2013 128i thats in great shape ( I know I know I am trying to keep the wrong car nice) as I Live in Canada. Anyways, I bought the car with the stipulation that it runs and drives on to the trailer without shutting off. The scrap yard did get it running and driving, but as I later found out they did it by jumping power from one fuse to the bank of fuses that terminal 13 of the DME powers by providing ground to K3600 relay. When the section of fuses has power jumped to it the car runs normal; no missing or rough idle or anything like that. I have been inspecting wiring using a multi meter to see if I maybe a corroded or broken wire is the issue with no luck. Note the previous owner had cut into a few wires to run some sort of piggyback ECU, but I have reconnected and checked all those wires and they are all functioning properly. Since then I have also changed the MAP and CPS since they both had broken clips on them and looked as old as the car and did the oil filter housing gaskets and changed the valve cover as it was cracked because both were leaking oil like crazy and and the valve cover had a crack JB welded together. I have also tried reprogramming the ECU to stock using NCS expert (incase the previous piggyback ECU had flashed the DME with a tune that would prevent it from starting). I have seen so many crank no start posts for e9xs and e8xs and tried following all the diagnostics (many provided by a George [gbalthorp] who clearly knows his stuff), but still no luck. I am now at a point where I think it is likely the DME that is fried, but just wanted to post here first to see if anyone has some insight on something I may have missed. I have pulled codes from the car and have the last 7 digits of the VIN if anyone is willing to take a quick look. The last 7 digits of the VIN are VF24915. The pending codes are as follows: JBBF - A6CF DME - 2ACC, 2ACB, 2E85 DSC - 5E19 CAS - A0B4 FZD - A670 FRM - 9CC0, 9CBF Also, if anyone has suggestions of where to get my DME cloned that would be appreciated in the event I need to replace it. Mike
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02-13-2025, 06:08 AM	#2
tino_tino New Member 3 Rep 27 Posts Drives: BMW E90 N53 3.0 Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: UK iTrader: (0)	did you fix this? I've got the same three DME codes.
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02-13-2025, 07:52 AM	#3
tino_tino New Member 3 Rep 27 Posts Drives: BMW E90 N53 3.0 Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: UK iTrader: (0)	My issue was pin 13 on the ECU. It has been mentioned as an issue on another thread elsewhere. I noticed some corrosion on the ECU and in the connector. Tried cleaning it and as I was cleaning it I noticed there was a pin missing on the ECU. When I looked in the connector the pin had snapped off and was stuck in the connector. Basically corroded / rusted and is now stuck in the connector. As a temporary workaround I put a bit of welding wire about 8mm long into the connector side and then pushed the connector back onto the ECU and it started. Obviously a proper fix is required but not sure at this point without further research how to replace the missing pin.
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02-13-2025, 10:05 AM	#4
tino_tino New Member 3 Rep 27 Posts Drives: BMW E90 N53 3.0 Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: UK iTrader: (0)	Another site suggests using the neighbouring pin 12 as a replacement. Supposedly pin 12 is unused. So just a case of opening the ECU, bridging pin 13 to pin 12 internally on the inside of the ECU and then bridging the same two wires on the outside on the connector. Will try it and see how it goes.
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