Armrest closing tab broke

[LuisBoston]

Maybe it's the cold, but the armrest tab that locks the lid closed broke this morning. Can the tab be replaced by itself or do I need an entirely new lid ($126 at Tischer).

Thanks!

[1and1]

I should think it can, if you can find one. I've seen folks remove and recover the arm rest...

As it happens I have an arm rest here as a parts donor - I'll take a closer look tonight & let ya know

[1and1]

Allllll-Righty then.......

The armrest cover is held on with just short of a bazillion plastic tabs, but no screws. With a bit of attitude and perhaps a prayer the padded cover can be removed by grabbing from the rear and pulling up with some (way more than you'd think necessary) effort, working your way to the front.

Once removed you get access to the latch mechanism. The latch can be removed & replaced, but there's no distinct part number for it. After playing with it for a few minutes I'd be happier leaving the latch in place and would be willing to ship you the whole inner lid, less cover so you can use yours, and not worry about breaking the latch mount points.

Happy to help, cost of shipping and a penny for my time. I'll check the classified rules, but, say...., $20 shipped? I may need to post in the classifieds with pics & such, I'll take a look at the rules to be sure, but otherwise shoot me a PM....

[1and1]

Oh, and I've got more pics- things like the hinge pivot assembly etc...

Just ask!

[gary_william]

I'd like to get that specific part made out of metal, or make one out of metal, or 3D print a new one. Stupid design.

[1and1]

If it helps- tho you've probably already looked up the process...
-remove back cover- pretty much just grab & pull
-remove hinge side covers- little tiny tabs holding em on, they pop off easily
-remove springs- grab in center, twist just enough to pull out, hold tightly, they'll pop off when the end pops out of the notch
-pull out the pin the arm pivots on- give em a bit of a pry, just enough so that you can grab and pull them out
-then you can lift the lid right off- easy peasy

[LuisBoston]

Thanks! Probably going to do this when the part arrives soon.

Anything I can do while in there to prevent the dreaded squeaking? WD40; anything better?

Originally Posted by 1and1

If it helps- tho you've probably already looked up the process...
-remove back cover- pretty much just grab & pull
-remove hinge side covers- little tiny tabs holding em on, they pop off easily
-remove springs- grab in center, twist just enough to pull out, hold tightly, they'll pop off when the end pops out of the notch
-pull out the pin the arm pivots on- give em a bit of a pry, just enough so that you can grab and pull them out
-then you can lift the lid right off- easy peasy

[zcwagon]

I'm thinking that you could just remove the springs that pop the arm rest up if the clip that holds it closed broke and you really don't want it open unless you open it. This would allow gravity to hold it closed instead of the spring holding it open.

Will this work before I tear into it and maybe break something or waste my time?

[b1aze]

Originally Posted by zcwagon

I'm thinking that you could just remove the springs that pop the arm rest up if the clip that holds it closed broke and you really don't want it open unless you open it. This would allow gravity to hold it closed instead of the spring holding it open.

Will this work before I tear into it and maybe break something or waste my time?

You’re way better off just buying a new armrest assembly. I got one cheap on eBay and it’s very easy to swap out

[moose09876]

I'm digging this up from the grave because it's one of the top search results for 135i broken armrest tab. Why spend $160+ on a new armrest when I can use the 10X more expensive tools I already own to make it! Removed and 3d scanned the clip. The scan obviously isn't perfect and needs some touch up (I have no good knowledge on how to edit giant STL files. I use fusion and it's impossible in there.) Printed out of PETG on an FDM printer and as a proof of concept it works great. While cleaning up one of the holes I broke one of the pivot tabs (in red), but it's just the back side and it still functions. Trying a super fine layer height ASA print now. PCBway will SLS print it in black nylon for $5 ea for 2+. Hell, you could get it 3d printed in titanium for $338. That wouldn't break. LOL!! If you want the STL just hit me up. The original one is pretty big but I have a simplified one that I'm trying with this ASA print.

Like AvE says, do cool sht and put it on the internet.

[1and1]

Nifty option, and certainly less expensive than buying new!

My choice was to just pick up a used door from ebay and swap out. Got one with the open storage tray too, instead of the old school phone holder thingy

$75 and got the better tray option as well


Then again, I used to give people grief about using air tools being for girls, cause I didn't have any.... Do now, and for several years, and they're awesome.

Yeah, I don't have 3d printing stuff either......

[moose09876]

Originally Posted by 1and1

Nifty option, and certainly less expensive than buying new!

My choice was to just pick up a used door from ebay and swap out. Got one with the open storage tray too, instead of the old school phone holder thingy

$75 and got the better tray option as well


Then again, I used to give people grief about using air tools being for girls, cause I didn't have any.... Do now, and for several years, and they're awesome.

Yeah, I don't have 3d printing stuff either......

That's the best part about 3d printing services. You can send in anything and they'll print it for you, usually in better quality / materials / and on nicer printers than normal people have.

[gary_william]

Originally Posted by moose09876

I'm digging this up from the grave because it's one of the top search results for 135i broken armrest tab. Why spend $160+ on a new armrest when I can use the 10X more expensive tools I already own to make it! Removed and 3d scanned the clip. The scan obviously isn't perfect and needs some touch up (I have no good knowledge on how to edit giant STL files. I use fusion and it's impossible in there.) Printed out of PETG on an FDM printer and as a proof of concept it works great. While cleaning up one of the holes I broke one of the pivot tabs (in red), but it's just the back side and it still functions. Trying a super fine layer height ASA print now. PCBway will SLS print it in black nylon for $5 ea for 2+. Hell, you could get it 3d printed in titanium for $338. That wouldn't break. LOL!! If you want the STL just hit me up. The original one is pretty big but I have a simplified one that I'm trying with this ASA print.

Like AvE says, do cool sht and put it on the internet.

Now to cast it in aluminum at home, super simple process.

[moose09876]

Had an order from PCBway anyway. Turned out pretty good!

[dtoledo]

Hi friend, I also have this broken piece. Would you be so kind as to post or share the STL file? You'd be giving me a great gift.

[At0mic135i]

New to the site and new to owning a 135i. How can I get this STL from you Moose?

Originally Posted by moose09876

I'm digging this up from the grave because it's one of the top search results for 135i broken armrest tab. Why spend $160+ on a new armrest when I can use the 10X more expensive tools I already own to make it! Removed and 3d scanned the clip. The scan obviously isn't perfect and needs some touch up (I have no good knowledge on how to edit giant STL files. I use fusion and it's impossible in there.) Printed out of PETG on an FDM printer and as a proof of concept it works great. While cleaning up one of the holes I broke one of the pivot tabs (in red), but it's just the back side and it still functions. Trying a super fine layer height ASA print now. PCBway will SLS print it in black nylon for $5 ea for 2+. Hell, you could get it 3d printed in titanium for $338. That wouldn't break. LOL!! If you want the STL just hit me up. The original one is pretty big but I have a simplified one that I'm trying with this ASA print.

Like AvE says, do cool sht and put it on the internet.

[moose09876]

Originally Posted by At0mic135i

New to the site and new to owning a 135i. How can I get this STL from you Moose?

Make some more posts so I can send you a PM.

[moose09876]

FYI, I had some more of these Nylon SLS printed and dyed black from a company in the US. Selling for $30 shipped in lower 48 states. Will still provide .stl file free of charge to active site members. We can see your join date and activity. Stop fishing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/267381958545

[imtheman]

Originally Posted by moose09876

I'm digging this up from the grave because it's one of the top search results for 135i broken armrest tab. Why spend $160+ on a new armrest when I can use the 10X more expensive tools I already own to make it! Removed and 3d scanned the clip. The scan obviously isn't perfect and needs some touch up (I have no good knowledge on how to edit giant STL files. I use fusion and it's impossible in there.) Printed out of PETG on an FDM printer and as a proof of concept it works great. While cleaning up one of the holes I broke one of the pivot tabs (in red), but it's just the back side and it still functions. Trying a super fine layer height ASA print now. PCBway will SLS print it in black nylon for $5 ea for 2+. Hell, you could get it 3d printed in titanium for $338. That wouldn't break. LOL!! If you want the STL just hit me up. The original one is pretty big but I have a simplified one that I'm trying with this ASA print.

Like AvE says, do cool sht and put it on the internet.

Can you send me the STL file or link to download it?

Thanks.

[midadami]

Originally Posted by moose09876

I'm digging this up from the grave because it's one of the top search results for 135i broken armrest tab. Why spend $160+ on a new armrest when I can use the 10X more expensive tools I already own to make it! Removed and 3d scanned the clip. The scan obviously isn't perfect and needs some touch up (I have no good knowledge on how to edit giant STL files. I use fusion and it's impossible in there.) Printed out of PETG on an FDM printer and as a proof of concept it works great. While cleaning up one of the holes I broke one of the pivot tabs (in red), but it's just the back side and it still functions. Trying a super fine layer height ASA print now. PCBway will SLS print it in black nylon for $5 ea for 2+. Hell, you could get it 3d printed in titanium for $338. That wouldn't break. LOL!! If you want the STL just hit me up. The original one is pretty big but I have a simplified one that I'm trying with this ASA print.

Like AvE says, do cool sht and put it on the internet.

Have a friend with BMW series 1 E81 (Europe) with this problem. Its a pain having the lid open all the time... It hardly closes. It opens even when closing the doors, just suddenly springs... haha.
I have a 3d printer and want to give it a try. Only have PLA but just want to try it out and see if it works. Ill buy other type of filament if the PLA does its job.
It seems I dont have PM permissions yet. Ill send you a message when I get access to them so you can decide if you want to send me the STL file. If there is an alternative way of receiving the STL file ill agree to it no problem.
Thanks a lot for the work done for the community. Wish I had a 3d scanner and knew how to deal with 3d files.