MHD stage 2 questions (N54)

[Mandinca]

So I have just put the VRSF catless downpipes on my N54, the only other mod I have is a BMS DCI.
I'm looking at the available MHD maps and stage 2 recommends upgraded DP's but no mention of anything else.

Questions-
Do I really need to upgrade the FMIC, it's a daily driver, I won't be looking for long periods of time in boost so will increased IAT's even be an issue for me ?
I live in New England so its cold in the winter but can get pretty hot and humid in the summer.

I am currently running the stock charge pipe. I've never had a car with a BOV and I think the "whoosh" would end up driving me crazy. What are my options for either a very quiet BOV or a diverter setup that would hold increased boost. Some say the stock diverter valves should be able to hold boost on a stage 2 map....looking for experience here, opinions etc.

What about boost creep - is that an issue for N54's and how can I detect it, monitor it, fix it ?

Thanks in advance....

[xDABSx]

With downpipes you will use the Stage 2map. If you upgrade your intercooler then you would use the stage 2+ map.

Stock diverter valves will leak.Upgrade the charge pipe and just get the upgraded diverter valves with the pipe if you dont like the sound of a bov. Evolution Raceworks sells a very nice charge pipe. If you are looking for something cheaper there are more than a few pipes that go for under $200.

Just start with that because I am sure the misfires will start shortly after lol

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by xDABSx

With downpipes you will use the Stage 2map. If you upgrade your intercooler then you would use the stage 2+ map.

Stock diverter valves will leak.Upgrade the charge pipe and just get the upgraded diverter valves with the pipe if you dont like the sound of a bov. Evolution Raceworks sells a very nice charge pipe. If you are looking for something cheaper there are more than a few pipes that go for under $200.

Just start with that because I am sure the misfires will start shortly after lol

Yeah, the problem is that the diverter valve set up is $500+
Are there quieter BOV set ups or is there a way to quiten a BOV ? I saw someone posted that they used a hose from the BOV down into a wheel well as a type of exhaust which worked quite well - I just want to avoid the "Psschhh" every time I let off the gas.

As for misfires, do you mean as a result of tuning to stage 2 or as a result of the BOV or diverter set up ?
I just replaced the plugs, should I expect to have to replace the coils and/or injectors as well ?

[xDABSx]

Originally Posted by Mandinca

Yeah, the problem is that the diverter valve set up is $500+
Are there quieter BOV set ups or is there a way to quiten a BOV ? I saw someone posted that they used a hose from the BOV down into a wheel well as a type of exhaust which worked quite well - I just want to avoid the "Psschhh" every time I let off the gas.

As for misfires, do you mean as a result of tuning to stage 2 or as a result of the BOV or diverter set up ?
I just replaced the plugs, should I expect to have to replace the coils and/or injectors as well ?

I just purchased a brand new VRSF chargepipe with HKS bov for $320 off eBay after coupon. You could recirculate the HKS bov and the noise would be minimal. There are definitely cheaper option out there if you are looking to spend less.


It is common for misfires to start when raising the boost so yes I would expect to have to replace coils and possibly injectors.

[xDABSx]

Here is somebody selling a CP with diverter valves for $350

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1480592

[iminhell1]

My stock diverters held 22psi with no problems. Never tested higher.


If you want to know what parts you NEED to upgrade all it take is a few datalogs.
Do you need a higher output Low Pressure Fuel Pump (LPFP, in the fuel tank); monitor fuel pressure
Do you need a better intercooler; log Intake Air Tempreture
Do you need Downpipes; datalog Wastegate Duty Cycle (WGDC)
Do you need an intake of fancy air filter; datalog WGDC
Do you have a boost leak; datalog Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT bank1, bank 2)
etc.

It really does not make sense to replace parts you don't NEED to. Though this has been covered many times over it's often forgotten of overlooked, the recommended parts for Stage 1, 2, 3, etc are due to the tune setting possibly overcoming the stock sensor limits. For instance, adding boost may cause the WGDC to limit out, then a code will be thrown for overboost and the car will go into limp mode. On some cars, in better condition, this may not happen. On cars with higher miles or in poorer condition it will happen.
Asking for parts upgrades is just covering bases to ensure there are no problems.


You're best bet is to judge what you want out of the car and what your intent for it is. If you do racing, then it's pretty obvious you'll want to upgrade parts. If you're just in it to spend money for scene points, I don't know what to tell you, maybe just add more stickers?

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by xDABSx

Here is somebody selling a CP with diverter valves for $350

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1480592

Dammit.....just bought a Tial knockoff with CP from Amazon for $200.
That said, I messaged with someone who was a verified buyer and he said he was 2+ tuned and had no issues with fitment or boost leaks so....I'll give it a shot.

Thanks for looking out for me though !

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

My stock diverters held 22psi with no problems. Never tested higher.


If you want to know what parts you NEED to upgrade all it take is a few datalogs.
Do you need a higher output Low Pressure Fuel Pump (LPFP, in the fuel tank); monitor fuel pressure
Do you need a better intercooler; log Intake Air Tempreture
Do you need Downpipes; datalog Wastegate Duty Cycle (WGDC)
Do you need an intake of fancy air filter; datalog WGDC
Do you have a boost leak; datalog Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT bank1, bank 2)
etc.

It really does not make sense to replace parts you don't NEED to. Though this has been covered many times over it's often forgotten of overlooked, the recommended parts for Stage 1, 2, 3, etc are due to the tune setting possibly overcoming the stock sensor limits. For instance, adding boost may cause the WGDC to limit out, then a code will be thrown for overboost and the car will go into limp mode. On some cars, in better condition, this may not happen. On cars with higher miles or in poorer condition it will happen.
Asking for parts upgrades is just covering bases to ensure there are no problems.


You're best bet is to judge what you want out of the car and what your intent for it is. If you do racing, then it's pretty obvious you'll want to upgrade parts. If you're just in it to spend money for scene points, I don't know what to tell you, maybe just add more stickers?

Valid points :-)
No, I'm not in it for scene points, more the opposite really. I'm a 47 year old with a mid life crisis...lol.
I came from the Mazdaspeed scene, had a speed6 which "required" certain upgrades to avoid others causing major problems. For example, just replacing the downpipe would cause the fuel pump to be overwhelmed, run lean and vent the block in cylinder 3. Seems that this platform is less vulnerable to issues like that, I'm just trying to cover my bases knowing that all the parts I add will in some way benefit the car, if not actually necessary.
The FMIC is a case in point I guess. I don't think I actually need one for stage 2, I'm not tracking the car, unlikely I will have sustained periods of boost where IAT's become an issue, but if one comes along at the right price I'll buy it since a) it does no harm to and b) I can always sell it again later if I stock the car out to trade it etc.

Now....about those stickers ;-)

[asiflicious]

You don't need an FMIC for stage 2 and arguably you don't even need it for stage 2+. TIAL is a very quite BOV. If I were you and I had about 1500-2k to spend I'd go ARM motorsports and the the downpipes, intercooler, CP and BOV at once

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by asiflicious

You don't need an FMIC for stage 2 and arguably you don't even need it for stage 2+. TIAL is a very quite BOV. If I were you and I had about 1500-2k to spend I'd go ARM motorsports and the the downpipes, intercooler, CP and BOV at once

I already have the VRSF downpipes on the car....did that last weekend. I looked at all the ARM motorsports items, still have the intercooler in my shopping cart on their website as it looks like a solid deal based on reviews I've read. As for the CP and BOV, I went with the knock off from Amazon to see how it performs. I had contacted a verified buyer and he uses it on a stage 2+ tune without issue - I don't need the "name brand" if the imitation will perform, and continue to perform for 1/3 the cost. As I said, I'm not a "scene" guy, just looking to have some fun.

[nieves.e82]

Just installed my catless downpipes and changed to the MHD stage 2+ map, can anyone give me feedback on my data log? https://datazap.me/u/cordell/3rd-gea...a=2-4-14-15-20

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by nieves.e82

Just installed my catless downpipes and changed to the MHD stage 2+ map, can anyone give me feedback on my data log? https://datazap.me/u/cordell/3rd-gea...a=2-4-14-15-20

Seems ok, what was your concern?

[Rabey]

Originally Posted by xDABSx

With downpipes you will use the Stage 2map. If you upgrade your intercooler then you would use the stage 2+ map.

Stock diverter valves will leak.Upgrade the charge pipe and just get the upgraded diverter valves with the pipe if you dont like the sound of a bov. Evolution Raceworks sells a very nice charge pipe. If you are looking for something cheaper there are more than a few pipes that go for under $200.

Just start with that because I am sure the misfires will start shortly after lol

Would I be good running stage 2 I have stock dps but charge pipe and dual intakes running stage 1 right now would I even be good running stage 1+? And no fmic

[RonnieRobotPants]

Originally Posted by Rabey

Would I be good running stage 2 I have stock dps but charge pipe and dual intakes running stage 1 right now would I even be good running stage 1+? And no fmic

I was running MHD Stage 1+ on all stock running gear for about 3 months with no problems. However i don't think i did a single WOT pull at all, just the occasional squirt here and there to stretch the neck muscles.

I upgraded to stage 2 last week with new DPs, CP+BOV and DCI. I asked my mechanic about 2+ and IF the FMIC is needed for that level of tune and he told me "you'll just run too hot and fuck stuff up if you don't"...but in saying that, this is all anecdotal evidence and I'm not a mechanic...just a pretty face

[dizzy619]

Fmic is recommended for stage one+ so probably should be done for stage 2

[marwanabdulall]

Hello,
Im new here, and i had a couple of questions,
i have a stock BMW E90 335 2008, n54 with auto trans and i wanted to go for MHD stg 2 tune and i thought of (DP, DCI, 5 inch intercooler, BOV) what do i need more? turner ignition coils and 1 step colder spark plugs? etc.. and my second question is my car is currently running 130k kilometers, should i change the gearbox oil or not?
Thank you.

[AussieMalt]

Hey welcome to the forum!
First of all do your maintenance items, including charge pipe. DCI won't give any extra performance, it's aesthetic only. In fact you'll probably lose power as it can only suck in hot air from under the hood. Catless DPs are great for some extra power but the tradeoff is way more noise and attracting the cops. I'm running MHD Stage 2 and xHP on the ZF and it is perfect as a daily driver. Is your gearbox manual or Auto, what are your intentions with the car?