ECS Tuning valve cover & VTT N55 to B58 swap - fault code overload

[mfmac]

My first post on here was a few years ago, not long after I bought my '11 135i. Back then I had some issues that ended up all being solved by a new valve cover. I've been on a few deployments since then and am back now and I started having the same issues so I decided to replace the plastic VC with a new aluminum VC from ECS Tuning and "while I'm in there", the VTT N55 to B58 coil conversion kit with the VTT ignition coils added, plugs and a new, revised edition HPFP (early N55 car).

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bremmen-...27570292m~brp/

https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-...onversion-kit/

So I got everything torn down and the VC, coils, plugs (NGK 94201, .022 gap), HPFP installed and everything put back together. Then reflashed with MHD to Stage 2 with the B58 coils selected and now I have a wall of codes. Anyone have any advice? Am I royally f....d?

Don't roast me too hard...

[wheela]

Wow, that is a lot of codes. I'm wondering if a harness plug in your DME became loose? I'd try double-checking your connections to start. Have you checked battery voltage? These things can start throwing seemingly unrelated codes if battery voltage gets too low.

[iminhell1]

Sounds like the box of death under the manifold is disconnected. Or you forgot to put a ground back.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Sounds like the box of death under the manifold is disconnected. Or you forgot to put a ground back.

I was thinking "I wonder if iminhell is still around, he'd be good at this".

[mfmac]

i think taking all of the plastic off is a job for this weekend. definitely not looking forward to that. ill update soon

thanks dudes

[mfmac]

I spent some time chasing wires in accordance with realoem drawings for my car and everything seemed to check out. After that I decided to chase what seemed like the most common issue with "(insert here) short circuit to B+" and i found some info on the cars power distribution block. Is it safe to assume that "short circuit to B+" indicates Battery, positive terminal? That makes sense to me considering the PDB is located on the positive battery terminal. If thats NOT the case, a new PDB from ECS got rid of ALL "short circuit to B+" codes and the car started right up. It's not running great though...

Here's my new list (much shorter) of codes lmao

[mfmac]

Image attached.

Is this a MAP or MAF issue now? New sensor?

[mfmac]

...

Did some more searching and forgot that I didn't tighten my BMS intake. The car seemed to start better after I fixed that but then it started to rev up and down inconsistently. I ran faults again and this is what came up.

Anyone have any ideas? Has to be new tune, coils, plugs, plug gaps? Also, there is no cat on the car.

I'll check gaps and tune tomorrow.

[mfmac]

Back to work on the car tonight. I pulled coils for 1, 4 and 6 and checked the plugs and gaps - everything seemed to be fine. Maybe 6 was a little over .022 but thats fixed now.

When I installed the VTT coils I noticed that there is no seal at the top of the boot (Delphi coils have that seal thats shaped nicely to fit on top of the head) so I decided to pull that seal off the Delphi coils and put it on the VTT set hoping that it may do a better job of keeping dust/dirt/water/anything out. That may have been the difference in 1,4,6 not seating properly and causing the misfire but they're off the VTT coils now. 2,3,5 all still have that little seal thing on them though. Slapped the coils back on and restarted and no more misfire in 1,4,6!

I think my car is the mevd17kw ECU variant. I only saw it once when a friend used ISTA to read codes back when I bought the car. How do I know for sure which variant I have? Hard to read bmwfault.codes when I'm not 100% sure on ECU variant.

MOST RECENT FAULTS

2BEA https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...AwNjM1MjQ3NTA1

This one is confusing me because I just installed the revised HPFP from the BMW dealer. Not cheap...

2C58 https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...AwNjM2NjY4MzA1

Huh?

2C86 https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...AwNjM2OTcwMTA1

Made sure intake was tight and plugged in, triple checked the DME connectors after my initial post and replies, did not check boost pressure sensor but that was never a problem before.

2C72 https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...AwNjMzODE1MzA1

Replace boost pressure sensor and try again? Not sure where to go from here...

[mfmac]

Originally Posted by wheela

Wow, that is a lot of codes. I'm wondering if a harness plug in your DME became loose? I'd try double-checking your connections to start. Have you checked battery voltage? These things can start throwing seemingly unrelated codes if battery voltage gets too low.

Forgot to reply to this one - battery was charged after reading

[mfmac]

wheela I went back to my first post and read over you helping me with MAP and MAF sensors a few years back. Today I tried your method of unplugging the MAF sensor in my intake and the car seemed to run much better. It threw another "short circuit to B+" code but that has to be the MAF sensor being unplugged, yea? I pulled both MAPs from the car to take a look at them and they're not the same. Should those be matching or is each MAP specific to that location and purpose?

Either way, I'm thinking that new sensors for all three positions would be a good idea but I'm not sure where to start and I've already kinda passed the amount of money I intended on spending to fix the car in the first place I THINK I have 2.5 bar MAPs and was reading that 3 bar could be better. Any recommendations on replacements? I've checked ECS and FCP and there are quite a few different options at different price points.

Here's the old MAPs - they're looking a little beat

edit: scratch that, attachments aren't working for me at the moment...

[wheela]

Originally Posted by mfmac

wheela I went back to my first post and read over you helping me with MAP and MAF sensors a few years back. Today I tried your method of unplugging the MAF sensor in my intake and the car seemed to run much better. It threw another "short circuit to B+" code but that has to be the MAF sensor being unplugged, yea? I pulled both MAPs from the car to take a look at them and they're not the same. Should those be matching or is each MAP specific to that location and purpose?

Either way, I'm thinking that new sensors for all three positions would be a good idea but I'm not sure where to start and I've already kinda passed the amount of money I intended on spending to fix the car in the first place I THINK I have 2.5 bar MAPs and was reading that 3 bar could be better. Any recommendations on replacements? I've checked ECS and FCP and there are quite a few different options at different price points.

Here's the old MAPs - they're looking a little beat

edit: scratch that, attachments aren't working for me at the moment...

Great, sounds like you're getting zeroed in! I'd definately expect a code from unplugging the MAF, but I'm not sure which - is that the only code that popped when you unplugged the MAF?

For the tmap sensors, the chargepipe unit and the one in the intake manifold should be the same. However, check your p/n's against realoem, as it looks like two different options are listed for each location (same 2 options for each location). It looks like BMW superseded an old one with a new one. Your codes you've had over the years suggest an issue with a tmaps(s). I don't like throwing parts at things blindly, but in this case it may be worth getting two new tmaps. If nothing else, you'll know they're refreshed. At this point I would not suggest a higher bar tmap. You don't need it for your tune level, and the priority should be getting these issues squared away first.

You're still running the burger intake, right? I think we still haven't ruled out if the maf issue is your maf sensor, or the intake. I know that intake will throw your maf readings off to some extent. I also don't believe you're getting any gains from it, only sucking in hotter engine bay air (and throwing off your maf readings). If it was my car, I'd spend money getting stock intake parts first. Maybe some cheap used ones on ebay if you don't have the originals still. And then if that doesn't work, I'd go for a new maf sensor.

Edit: If you want to start with getting only 1 new tmap, I'd probably try swapping out the chargepipe tmap first. It seems much less likely they'd both be bad. Not sure it it helps, but on my phone I can't upload photos when I initially post, I always have to make the post, then go back in and edit it to add pictures. Don't know why, maybe it's user error, lol.

Edit edit: For stock parts, fcp euro is my go-to. First, go to realoem and type in your vin so you can look up what specific part number tmap you need. Then fcp euro is your best friend for parts

Edit edit edit: It's kinda confusing, on realoem, the charge pipe and associated tmap are under the fuel preparation section, while the intake and associated tmap are in the engine section.