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| 08-19-2008, 10:48 PM | #45 |
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No. I assume the disconnect would have a better seal.
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| 08-25-2008, 05:04 PM | #46 |
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ok im confused what size plug should i use 3/16th, 5/16th, 5/32 they have all been mentioned.....
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| 08-30-2008, 05:59 AM | #48 |
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May sound like a stupid question but where can I get a vacuum plu? hardware store?
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| 08-30-2008, 08:04 AM | #49 | |
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However if you have a zip tie/zip strip you can just kink the hose and tighten the tie/strip around the kink. This is what I did because I didn't have any plugs.
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| 08-30-2008, 06:14 PM | #50 |
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Awesome, that means I dont have to unplug the hose? If thats the case it sounds pretty good!!!
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| 08-30-2008, 07:27 PM | #51 | |
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| 09-01-2008, 10:36 AM | #53 |
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I did zip ties yesterday and def. a different sound
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| 09-01-2008, 11:14 PM | #54 |
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I'd have to disagree. I think the zip tie method is by far easier. You don't have to disconnect/reconnect anything. You just kink the hose then zip tie it. You just need a pair of cutters to take it off if you're worried about the dealership.
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| 09-02-2008, 01:58 AM | #55 | |
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I have to disagree with you as well. It may be easier than having to pull off a single vacuum hose and insert some ball bearings but down the road, when the hose breaks from bending it that way, you end up having a vacuum leak. |
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| 09-02-2008, 09:47 AM | #56 | |
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You cannot deny that it's MUCH easier to zip tie something than it is to disconnect the hose, buy the right sized BBs (after all who has an assortment of various sized BBs on hand?), then reconnect the hose (which now won't stay on as well because you've broken the factory seal on the line.)
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| 09-02-2008, 10:46 AM | #57 | |
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i used a ziptie though. It was easy to get, got like 50 black ones for $0.99 at the 99 cent store. but, for me at least, it was a bit of a hassle actually kinking it and tying it. i found there was very little space to work under the exhaust and the hose had very little slack.
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| 09-02-2008, 12:27 PM | #58 | |
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| 09-02-2008, 02:40 PM | #59 | |
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I could be wrong though.
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| 09-04-2008, 01:53 AM | #60 | |
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I was speaking of LONGEVITY obviously. As for the ball bearings being stuck in the line I am not sure why you would want to take the ball bearings out but yes it would be nearly impossible. However, I have no idea what you are talking about with the hose not being able to stay one because the "factory seal" is broken. It is a rubber vacuum line. They do not depend on actual vacuum to stay on the actuator nipple. |
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| 09-04-2008, 12:42 PM | #61 |
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this is actually quite humerous... do it however you want, I really really doubt bmw cares about how "stock" that looks... its for quieting the car down in open loop and low rpms/speed... its not like making that mod is like yanking your boost control solenoid vaccumm lines.
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| 09-04-2008, 03:05 PM | #62 | |
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It's not like this would void your powertrain warranty..
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| 09-04-2008, 03:35 PM | #63 |
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bmw found the bb in one dude's lines and he said the techs were pissed.
there's a thread on e90post on it.
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| 09-04-2008, 06:41 PM | #64 |
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Just do what the dealership will do if you get a BMW Performance Exhaust.
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| 09-05-2008, 02:55 AM | #65 |
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Yes, that's "Open" and should stay that way with the mod, as soon as you start the car, and pressure is put into the system, it should flick to the closed position without the Mod.
If it isn't closing after removing the cable tie, are you sure there is no kink in the hose still?
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| 09-05-2008, 10:47 AM | #66 |
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I thought about the golf tee mod, but I don't think it's necessary, because when I cold-start my car, the flap will close and then reopen in about a minute (at this point I do not know if it closes off again while I'm driving, but everytime I get out of the car to check, it's in the open position). When I hot-start the car, the flap never closes while in idle. My conclusion: if the flap remains open all the time, except during the first minute of starting the engine, there is no reason to do the golf tee mod. :iono:
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