|
|
|
09-13-2015, 02:21 PM | #288 |
<(O0=[][]=0O)>
813
Rep 1,206
Posts |
Got mine in last weekend.
Best Mod Ever +1,000,000. At first I thought it was broken because the initial action at the top of the stroke is so much lighter. Took an awful lot more than 10 minutes, though. I think I need some proper ramps. |
Appreciate
1
|
11-29-2015, 03:18 PM | #290 | |
<(O0=[][]=0O)>
813
Rep 1,206
Posts |
Quote:
Seems to be the way to go if you're already out of warranty.
__________________
2012 E88 M-Sport 135i DSB Metallic
COBB CP, ZHP Knob, E60 SSK Lever, E92 M3 FSB, RSFB inserts, Koni Sport, Eibach Pro, UCP, MPSS, AP axle-back, MHD Stage1+ 91 <(O0=[][]=0O)> |
|
Appreciate
1
|
12-22-2015, 05:46 PM | #291 |
New Member
3
Rep 10
Posts
Drives: 128i M Sp, 95 M3, 94 M-Technic
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Communist Republic of Maryland
|
Wow, wish I came on this forum sooner. I was wondering why 1 - 2 felt weird. I have had plenty of BMWs in my past, mainly E36s, and never liked how the shift felt from 1 - 2 in the 1 series. Now I know what to do.
Good write up, OP. |
Appreciate
1
|
01-17-2016, 07:48 PM | #293 |
Private First Class
26
Rep 149
Posts |
I just did this mod. Had the missus help with bleeding the valve.
My car is in storage in my garage for the winter but I just had to take a quick drive. What an improvement! Thank you OP for doing this. |
Appreciate
0
|
05-16-2016, 12:40 PM | #294 |
Private
11
Rep 75
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-16-2016, 01:00 PM | #295 |
<(O0=[][]=0O)>
813
Rep 1,206
Posts |
I would imagine 6MT only. But then, the DCT does have a clutch (or two.)
Plug your VIN into REALOEM and see if your cars has 21526764872 Lock Valve. If not, then you have no CDV to delete...
__________________
2012 E88 M-Sport 135i DSB Metallic
COBB CP, ZHP Knob, E60 SSK Lever, E92 M3 FSB, RSFB inserts, Koni Sport, Eibach Pro, UCP, MPSS, AP axle-back, MHD Stage1+ 91 <(O0=[][]=0O)> |
Appreciate
0
|
05-17-2016, 08:31 AM | #296 |
Brigadier General
3504
Rep 3,722
Posts |
If you don't have a third pedal you don't need to worry about this... Strictly for manual transmissions
__________________
"Tobias" 2013 135i ///M-Sport 6MT • Pure Stage 1 • XDI 35 HPFP • 404whp/440wtq |
Appreciate
2
|
05-28-2016, 01:01 PM | #297 |
First Lieutenant
95
Rep 339
Posts |
Here's how i did it.
Removal of the actual CDV: Unclip both clips Pull hose from CDV and cap it with your finger Remove CDV from the hardline Plug hose to hardline and push the clip in Bleeding with pressure bleeder Fill brake fluid reservoir to the absolute TOP Fill pressure bleeder and plug it to the reservoir Pump it to 15psi Go under the car and open bleeding nipple I couldn't plug a hose while opening the nipple so i did it blind, i left it open 10s, tighten the nipple Unplug bleeder (relieve the pressure first) Remove the excess fluid from the reservoir Booom, you done ! Clutch is now perfect. |
Appreciate
1
|
05-28-2016, 08:46 PM | #298 |
Bergspyder
1556
Rep 1,242
Posts |
My CDV valve experience....
Before: After: Actually I did not reinstall the gutted valve. But there is NO REASON ON EARTH to buy a modified valve. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=23 Do it now. Do not wait.
__________________
|
Appreciate
2
|
06-01-2016, 12:27 PM | #299 |
First Lieutenant
91
Rep 373
Posts |
Used these instructions to install the BMS CDV on my 128i. Since my car is still under warranty, prefer to keep it stock appearing and also retain the OEM valve in case I need to reinstall it for some reason.
Following advice I saw somewhere else, maybe earlier in this thread, I bought an 11mm half-moon wrench (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which definitely helped with bleeding. I bled using a Motive bleeder and as others have mentioned, had to pump the clutch in the ball park of 100 times afterwards to get normal pedal feel back. Overall it went smoothly! |
Appreciate
1
|
06-01-2016, 12:30 PM | #300 |
First Lieutenant
91
Rep 373
Posts |
So wait, you just let fluid drain out and make a mess under the car? For others considering this, definitely worth picking up the proper wrench in advance so you can contain the fluid. Hydraulic fluid is nasty shit.
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-05-2016, 12:24 PM | #301 |
E82 Mudflap Ambassador
2229
Rep 2,220
Posts
Drives: '08 128i
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Orlando, FL
|
Wow thank you guys!!! This was really easy, just a pain in the... shoulder (from working on the garage floor). Took under an hour, and about half of the time was spent making wooden blocks so I could jack the car up safely. Hardest part was finding the clip that faces up towards the car. I clamped the line like people suggested and barely lost any fluid. Had my dad push the clutch to the floor while I bled and it all worked with one slow pump. Put everything back together and gave it a test drive. Barely had to top off the reservoir. Boy what a difference. I know I'm still learning manual but I knew I shouldn't need to drive like a grandma to be smooth! 10/10 would highly recommend.
|
Appreciate
1
|
06-05-2016, 06:40 PM | #302 |
Private
9
Rep 67
Posts |
Well being a lazy bastard I'm having the shop pull the CDV completely when it's up on the lift for diff install this week.
I'm really looking forward to the result based on this thread. I installed the BMS clutch stop and that helped a lot with the huge pedal throw. But I still have that ultra-annoying engagement point at the very top of the pedal, which you have to baby to get a clean shift to 1 or 2. Otherwise it's a bucking bronco. Combining this poor clutch behavior with a Sprint Booster has made things interesting. Hopefully, CDV delete will be the endpoint on my recent pedals project, which so far has been (1) BMS clutch stop, (2) Sprint Booster to partially remediate awful drive-by-wire throttle lag and dead spot, and (3) Turner pedals for grippiness.
__________________
2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT |
Appreciate
0
|
06-06-2016, 06:41 AM | #304 |
Private
9
Rep 67
Posts |
About a week or two ago, I actually started a thread asking about the UCP.
Do you have it? When I asked about it, the thread really became a discussion about the BMS clutch stop and CDV delete (both of which I'm in process of doing). So in that regard it was helpful. But I'm interested to know more about the UCP. Did you install it, or a shop? Did you go through a progression from clutch stop to CDV delete to UCP? Etc. Asking because I'm really trying to straighten out the pedals (for track mainly), and if this would be helpful I'd certainly put it back on my punch list.
__________________
2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT |
Appreciate
0
|
06-06-2016, 02:11 PM | #305 | |
<(O0=[][]=0O)>
813
Rep 1,206
Posts |
Quote:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...hlight=bushing "Brief" summary: The BMS Clutch Stop was one of the first upgrades I made to my car. Definitely appreciated the shorter throw, but was still bothered by the delayed reaction and jerkiness, as well as squeakiness of the bushing. Installed one of the CDV Delete valves. Was very happy with clutch response, but still annoyed by squeakiness. Installed the AKG Delrin bushings. P-I-T-A. They were a little oversized - need to make 'em less wide to get the c-clip back on. Over-center spring was a nightmare. Cracked one of the pin retaining rings = broken clutch pedal. Went back and forth on "stock pedal but pay someone to do it" or "UCP and DIY." I went the DIY method of the UCP. SOOOOOO much easier to install than the stock pedal! Not even funny! 45 minutes of futzing around vs 5 hours of beating myself up. The UCP has some captive bronze bushings. I polished 'em a hair with 2500 & 5000 wet/dry then Mothers Mag/Aluminum. Cleaned up 'em and greased with Redline Moly. Not sure where the AKG bushing are right now. Don't care. It also came with a nice big clutch stop. I went nuts and used the full UCP stop with the full BMS clutch stop. Car wouldn't start - clutch didn't disengage fully. Pulled out one layer of stop and have had no problems and just love it. UCP is slightly grittier-feeling than the delrin AKG bushings were - slightly - but this thing never binds, never squeaks, and is completely 100% consistent. I put the spring in the middle "sport" position and have not tried "comfort" or "track" because, frankly, it's just right. I haven't measured it, but while travel is shorter overall there is actually some overtravel on reset once the clutch is fully engaged. But the feel is great, it's progressive, easy to modulate, quick, sharp, and like I said, consistent. No slop, no give, no bending or shifting. Brilliant. DIY is still a little bit of a pain. I found it much easier, and better on my back, when I placed an ottoman just outside the driver's door to rest my lower body on. And nicer with my 10 year old handing me tools and finding the one that rolled underneath me. Worst part for me, really, is I have a 6+ foot wingspan and when I stick my arm up in the pedal box my fingers are above everything I want to work on. So I had a kink in my wrist for a little bit... Using allen-head bolts instead of pins to secure the springs was a stroke of genius. I haven't tracked my car but, knowing what I know now, I wouldn't do it on the stock pedal/stop/lock valve - but wouldn't hesitate on my current setup. If you've got the itch, and the scratch, do it. You won't be disappointed. Every day I drive my car, I say to myself "Wow. I LOVE this clutch."
__________________
2012 E88 M-Sport 135i DSB Metallic
COBB CP, ZHP Knob, E60 SSK Lever, E92 M3 FSB, RSFB inserts, Koni Sport, Eibach Pro, UCP, MPSS, AP axle-back, MHD Stage1+ 91 <(O0=[][]=0O)> Last edited by tjswarbrick; 06-06-2016 at 07:02 PM.. |
|
Appreciate
1
Mustafa.e92209.50 |
06-07-2016, 04:14 PM | #306 |
Major
548
Rep 1,233
Posts |
Damn you've got me thinking about the UCP...I remember reading your original thread but that was before I had the BMS stop and CDV done.....now that they are, the clutch is way better but not quite where I want it. It's the difficulty modulating and (lack of) consistency that makes me crazy...
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-07-2016, 04:30 PM | #307 | |
<(O0=[][]=0O)>
813
Rep 1,206
Posts |
Quote:
But that's where I feel the biggest improvement with the new one!
__________________
2012 E88 M-Sport 135i DSB Metallic
COBB CP, ZHP Knob, E60 SSK Lever, E92 M3 FSB, RSFB inserts, Koni Sport, Eibach Pro, UCP, MPSS, AP axle-back, MHD Stage1+ 91 <(O0=[][]=0O)> |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-23-2016, 12:31 AM | #308 |
Private First Class
42
Rep 143
Posts |
Need some help
Hey guys. can anyone help me do this here is SoCal? Or, know a local shop that can do this for me on the cheap? I'm in Orange County. Mission Viejo to be precise. Got an E90 M3. Thanks!
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|