My new 135i

[demas]

So, I'm in the process of getting 6 new fuel injectors ordered/installed.

Why? Long story long so jump to relevant category if you need. About a month ago, I felt the car wasn't idling smoothly but would when pressing in the clutch or with A/C on - both of which raise the RMPs a little. Also a couple of 1st gear starts weren't smooth and nearly stalled. Wasn't all the time just noticed it on a couple of drives and everything seemed ok.

Context
Right after I did the tail light clean up above, used BimmerLink to see if I could find anything. Idling in neutral with AC off, it was about ~690 RPMs - with clutch disengaged/pedal depressed, it smoothed out to ~700. Did this several times and with foot off all pedals while flipping through Bimmerlink menus, the engine suddenly sputtered, shook and died. Flabbergasted, I sat there for a min, didn't see any errors or check engine and thought wtf. I was low on gas and was about to fill her up after my RPM checks. Per Bimmerlink I still had 8 Liters of Fuel. I thought possibly sediment clogged something? Not sure. I started the car back up left if for a few mins then drove 5 mins to the nearest station and back - drove fine.

Cause:
Made an appointment with BMW and took it down there. They smelled gasoline from the oil filler cap and asked to keep the car a couple days to get to the root cause and offered me a loaner 530 to take home. Few days later they confirmed injectors 2 and 4 were faulty and the others may or may not go bad but recommend full replacement. I know I probably didn't have to change the others at this time, but decided to just refresh them all.
3 weeks to order from Germany so she's in the shop again. Maybe, just maybe this was the reason for the slow starts I've been trying to sort out. I don't know. According to BMW, the gas in the oil didn't seem too severe so I'm really hoping the fuel leak had worsened only very recently as opposed to me driving around all this time with insufficient bearing lubrication. Up to now, and apart from the slow starts, the engine has been running fine as far as I can tell - and with my short experience with the N55.


Rant
I've mentioned this in a few posts here but again, this is, I think the 3rd time where I had the wife out of town vising friends in Tokyo where I had the day to myself and was planning to enjoy the 1. It was a Sunday and I was going to hit BMW real quick - assuming they wouldn't really find anything wrong to ease my mind - then hit the roads.

While that rained on the party, my real issue is this strange pattern I seem to have with my BMWs. It alternates between good car and bad car like this:

E36 318 - Great car, minimal if no issues
E39 525 - Bad experience with the car
E39 530 - Absolutely amazing car, minimal if no issues
E39 540 - Absolutely horrible experience with reliability
F10 550 - Absolutely amazing car, minimal if no issues
E82 135 - Jury still out but I see a pattern here


I'll cut the 135 some slack as it is an oldish car, I knew what I was getting into and it's not a daily driver. I actually bought it as I 'want' issues so that I can fix it - that's part of the enjoyment. But, it really acts like the 540 wherein it would break down on or about the worst time. I got stories of that 540 which is all documented at Bimmerfest but man, it's a close race. Fun fact: That 540 I owned ended up in Canada where a fellow 'Fest member purchased it. He saw my posts and reached out - couldn't believe he had the exact same car - had the Bilsten shocks, all the BMW Individual Birch wood I put in and of course, the VIN.

On the bright side, if I ever need to replace this amazingly stunning 550 which is my main car, it will be on the positive-track cycle.

Also, after leaving my firm last year, settling into the new house and dealing with some family health emergencies and having to go back in Boston in Feb, I haven't really had much time with the 1er.


530e
The loaner I had with BMW. Meh - I mean yeah, nice - I think it was a 4 banger hybrid. Improved modern Tech features some of which I don't like but nice cruiser. Do I need to get a new 5? No. Was I impressed? Not really. Give me a solid E39 anyday and the F10 just improves it albeit more clinical in the driving feel which you really can't do much about due to chassis size.


Current Situation
I'm still waiting for the repairs to complete and look forward to getting the N55 back and on the road probably in about 2 weeks. I 'should' see some performance increase with all new injectors - but you tell me what experiences have been. She's about 60K Miles so still young and there is a backlog of mods I want to do.. More to come later.

[Fishee]

But when it's working...

[demas]

Indeed..


Well, as I wait, I've been browsing Real OEM, FCP etc. for other things down the line like contemplating an HK sound upgrade, tire choices, maintenance items etc.

While running through the options on my car per VIN decoder, I came across this:

[S258 = Tyres With Runflat Properties]

Interesting. Did the E82 2010/2011 models come with Runflats from factory? I wonder how that would have felt with the M-Sport suspension and which tires they may have came with.

Something close I think might be an E85 Z4 I once rented on holiday circa 2006 that had RFTs. Real hard ride from what I recall. I liked it, but then girlfriend now wife didn't :-) Thinking about it now, it might suit the 1.


Had RFT's on the 550i brand new in 2013 - they were much more compliant but I did swap them. It was shared that BMW tuned their suspensions considering the heavier RFT's so we were skeptical back then changing to non-RFTs when these cars were still new.

[blue135]

I thought all 1s delivered in the US had runflats. Several threads on here about switching away from RFTs and the changes wrought.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by demas

Indeed..


Well, as I wait, I've been browsing Real OEM, FCP etc. for other things down the line like contemplating an HK sound upgrade, tire choices, maintenance items etc.

While running through the options on my car per VIN decoder, I came across this:

[S258 = Tyres With Runflat Properties]

Interesting. Did the E82 2010/2011 models come with Runflats from factory? I wonder how that would have felt with the M-Sport suspension and which tires they may have came with.

Something close I think might be an E85 Z4 I once rented on holiday circa 2006 that had RFTs. Real hard ride from what I recall. I liked it, but then girlfriend now wife didn't :-) Thinking about it now, it might suit the 1.


Had RFT's on the 550i brand new in 2013 - they were much more compliant but I did swap them. It was shared that BMW tuned their suspensions considering the heavier RFT's so we were skeptical back then changing to non-RFTs when these cars were still new.

I don't believe there's much reasonable suspension tuning that can be done to compensate for the ultra stiff sidewalls and added weight of run flats. Lowering the rebound rates, softening springs... none of it fits with the car. Run flats are just all around terrible. Like boat anchors, with added weight where you really don't want it, dynamically speaking.

I believe that many 1s came delivered with Bridgestone RE050A RFT (215/245).

Swapping to slightly taller PS4S, an E60 spare kit in the trunk, and refreshing the suspension... be it with OEM or quality aftermarket is, in my opinion, what the car needs to be a fun weekend ride. YMMV.

[demas]

agree..

I've been happy with PS3, PSS and PS4S's on the 5. The factory Primacy RFT's that it came with weren't great - especially going over potholes.

Was just thinking perhaps the smaller E82 may have better executed stiffer tires over the larger 5.

That Z4 I rented I quite liked - but then again, I only drove it for 3 days...

[demas]

She's back - with 6 new injectors, yay. Had an oil change done as well to rid whatever impurities that may have been in there.

Impressions:

Power - feels more or less the same and wasn't expecting there to be more. It's also a good sign that the injectors had probably been performing well up until very recently and hence less, if any, damage internally.

Driveability - Could be placebo but improved 1st gear feeling. It was a bit finicky recently with some jerky starts - now it's much more in tune with the bite point. A few times before, I'd get to the bite point on a straight road and the engine bogged down. I haven't done CDV delete still on the fence. Also, the ZHP knob is glorious - just say'n!

Sound - Definitely placebo but man, this thing just sounds good stock - been driving the 550 and MINI for three weeks and drove the 1 on a good sunny day and it was glorious.



Hopefully she's in good mechanical shape now and I can continue down a few medium-term areas of interest.

(1) Ordered a new e-brake handle (genuine perforated) from FCP over a month ago - now I can get that installed. Wanted a new leather brake cover but hard to find one for right hand drive. Decided not to change as it's actually in good shape.

(2) Finally completed a full exterior glass compound clean. It had a lot of grime so good to get that off finally. Posted below.

(3) Custom speedometer/gauges backpanel. I lost the bookmark but there was a company that made these which look stock. They have the grey "1M style" look which I like that has both MPH with KPH.

(4) Audio. Got a chance to rip out the rear trunk liner to confirm that I don't have an amp. I knew I probably had the base stereo as I've got the 6 speaker system and it sounds pretty bad. Reason I had to check was that sometimes the Euro or Japan market BMW's have certain items which are different than US. It was a long shot in hoping I had an amp but yeah, no. I want to get the genuine HK system and not aftermarket including BAV. Got to do a lot more research and where I can get a Logic 7 amp somewhere. Not sure if the CIC has to change but I'll go down that road when I get there.

(5) Speaking of sound - keen to try out the Burger CAI. Still about $250 and reversible. I normally won't touch CAI's on a stock car but this thing seems to sound wild on an N55.

(6) Spacers at some point just to flush out the wheels. Leaning ECS.

Suspension and tires may need to wait a little longer as funds are being routed to the F10 and MINI for maintenance this year.

[demas]

Got to the e-brake handle replacement. Removed the boot and had to pull really, really, really hard to remove the original one. As far as I can see, you end up breaking the plastic tabs inside the handle to get it off. There is no way to get to the tabs on the inside due to the plastic support part shown in the picture.

Cleaned up the boot and 'repaired' a few scratches before final install.

Let's see how long the matte look lasts : )

Also, any good ways to get the seat belt buckle releases back to red? I haven't checked Real OEM so not sure if the buckle is replaceable or not worth the hassle.

[tracer bullet]

Hmm, good question on the buckle. At a glance a new one is over $200 USD, and you'd want 2 of them. There's a sensor in them as well. Might have to remove the seats to get to the bolt for the buckles as well. Lots of work. Vinyl, maybe, but seems like it'd slide out of place. Any fixes with sandpaper or polishing just sound like they'd get further damaged. I've seen people color them with a red permanent marker, but it seems like you'd be able to tell that's exactly what you did and it might look silly.

Sorry, that's the opposite of what you were hoping for!

[demas]

Yup, that's kind of what I figured. Might try some of that Novus plastic polish I used on the blinkers and headlights to clean em up a bit.

[mkeiser]

I think I've seen people use extreme heat (torch) just gotta be careful to not burn the seat or the entire car lol. I think m539 has used the red sharpie that tracer alluded to with good results.

[demas]

I finally started on the headlights - something I've been wanting to do since buying the car a couple years ago.

Was on the fence for best long-term route but finally settled on doing the sanding myself and go with the 3M clear coat wipes. Almost went with a Urethane spray sold locally but wasn't fully confident that I'd spray evenly, not get the stuff around my other cars and possibly breathe it in without a mask. Given this was my first time doing headlights, this would be a 'trial' run and if/when they go bad again, I can consider something else but want to see how long the 3M wipes last with regular care.


The original clear was gone at the top of the lights with a small amount remaining at center point but was cracking and faded. From a distance, they didn't look too bad but from the sides you can clearly see deterioration.

Started out with 600 grit dry (on the right side) then wet sanded from 800>1000>1500>2000>25000>3M Trizact 3000. On the left side, I started with wet sanding instead with the 600 and followed the same intervals up. I did the dry as I heard it was more effective to be able to determine when the sanding dust goes from yellow to white as opposed to wet sanding where you may not get all the yellow clear off. At any rate, my view is wet sanding is far better. I had no issue knowing when I hit pure polycarbonate material with either method. The right side light which I started dry had scratches even when I hit 2000 grit, so I ended up going at them again from 600 upwards.

I did all this by hand and really enjoyed the time over three days getting this done. I do see some very fine sanding marks with the lights turned on but hardly noticeable. I'll need to check them in more depth when the sun goes down.


As for the 3M wipes - nice product. Wiped on smooth, didn't streak and finished them off like glass. This was the most nerve racking point. Hate to admit it but I actually practiced how and from what point I'd wipe considering the contours and potential dangers like hitting the fender and causing an uneven stroke... The only thing when first using is you don't know how much pressure to use on the wipe - too little and you mis-coverage and too much and you risk runs. I ended up with a very small run at the very first point where I started - a shame but it's hardly noticeable. All in all, it wiped on better than expected.


Lot's of pictures below on progress and results but glad to finally get them to where they are. Waited for a long time to see the crystal clear champagne angel eyes..

[demas]

A few night shots of the headlights. The right side (when sitting in the car) turned out more clear then the left. Interestingly, this was the side I started off with the dry sanding and ended up wet sanding for two 'rounds'. During the wet sanding, the other side did seem smoother.

[demas]

Since I've been focused on the front end, could no longer ignore the wiper arms which were in bad shape.

Used medium then followed up with light rubbing compound and that seemed to bring them back.

I doubt there is any kind of clear coat on them - and will put some sealant on them later - so hoping this restores them back as best can be for sitting in the sun for 13 years.

I do think this car was never garaged since new and sitting next to my F10 and the MINI, you can really tell it lacks that luster.

But, that is being corrected little by little.


Next up will be hitting the rims with the compound and to see if it can also revive the black M-Sport door and window trim which I'll need to approach carefully.

[demas]

Quick update on headlights.

It's been almost 6 months since I restored them. So far, not seeing any yellowing coming back. I've been pretty diligent in keeping them coated with Carnauba (Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax) roughly twice a month.

I get it has been winter so the next six months things may change but we'll see.

[demas]

Took my first longish drive yesterday - about 100 miles round trip to Tokyo and back.

Cleaned the car up the day before and it's been running fine around town on short drives so wanted to push the distance. There was always the possibility of something going wrong ie, water pump as that is the last big item that is still original on this car. Fortunately, it all went well.

While I had business in Tokyo yesterday, it was more a 'spiritual trip' than anything as my life the last 28 years was strictly in Tokyo and all my previous BMW's were purchased there, it was only right to take the 1 into the city which it had never been to under my ownership.

Glad to get pics of the same place overlooking Rainbow bridge which crosses Tokyo Bay near where I used to live.



One reason I put this off for so long is that I've never driven a manual in the city - the last manual car I had was in Okinawa in my early 20's. So wanted to make sure I knew this car much better before I took the trip. I'm no veteran shifter but can handle her. I still don't like the 1st to 2nd shifts and I've still got the CDV.

At any rate, I really enjoyed it - although Tokyo is crowded and busy, I'm very familiar with the roads and how people drive and much prefer it to where I am now. Driving in the middle of the business district, traffic late afternoon I felt totally calm and at home.


The only issue I faced was getting a foot cramp near the end of the day on my way back - that wasn't fun. On the expressway, shins were acting up and got a charlie horse on my left foot - so stayed calm in the middle lane, kept decent space from the car in front and took it easy. After about 30-40 mins it cleared up but by that time I was nearly home. Although I changed to my driving shoes to, from and while driving in Tokyo, I was in my leather dress shoes and suit all day so I think walking in those dress shoes all afternoon (which I haven't done in a while) led to the cramps.


Also I kind of knew this already but I found that 6th gear is hardly overdrive - when I was going about 100Kph it was sitting at 2K RPM - just seemed gearing was too short but I guess that is the way it is.



This spring a few of us in the neighborhood are planning an all-day mountain drive and I was leaning to take the 1 but maybe I need to get my legs in shape. At any rate, great drive, she did good and no major issues.

These pictures are with the E39 in 2005, the F10 in 2013 and now with the E82 all at the same location.

[demas]

It's been one and a half years since my headlight restoration with the 3M kit and here is how they stand now.

Overall still in good shape, there is some yellowing but very, very slight. Car parks outside.
I've continued using two coats of Carnuba after most every wash.

Might hit it again at the two year mark and they should clean up crystal clear easily. Have to say very happy with the 3M clear-coat wipes. The key is to get the sanding done right.


I also wax the MINI and the F10 lights after washing - although these cars have the original clear on them and so far holding up ok in the sun. The MINI and the E82 are about the same age although the MINI was garaged first 10 years of its life.

[Fishee]

Nice, have you thought about PPFing them?
I replaced my lenses and immediately PPFd.

[demas]

Originally Posted by Fishee

Nice, have you thought about PPFing them?
I replaced my lenses and immediately PPFd.

Yeah I did. I called a bodyshop about PPFing as I wanted it professionally done. They discontinued the service as they had customer complaints that the film didn’t last past 2 years. Never heard of that before.

I also found pre-cut E82 films -not sure if they were 3M - but I’d have to order from the states etc etc.

So decided to just sand and protect - and to see how long they would last as sort of a test/project.

[MParallel]

Originally Posted by demas

…

(4) Audio. … Not sure if the CIC has to change but I'll go down that road when I get there.

No you don’t need to change the CIC, all you need is to code the audio type parameter to premium or top hifi, so it knows to route the audio through the MOST bus (and give you right menu).

[demas]

Originally Posted by MParallel

No you don’t need to change the CIC, all you need is to code the audio type parameter to premium or top hifi, so it knows to route the audio through the MOST bus (and give you right menu).

Thanks. I have the top-hifi option in Bimmercode so hope that works when I get around to it.

Would you also know if the base stereo already has a MOST line coming from the back of the head unit? I'd hate to have to pull all that out to look. I think on the E90's, for base stereo, the fiber from the headunit was terminated in a splitter or 'hub' under the rear seat (but just not used) and you'd 'just' connect the logic7 amp to that junction box verses running the fiber MOST line from the amp in the trunk all the way to the headunit.

[MParallel]

I have no idea, but I would be surprised if it's alreay in place. Well maybe if you have ComBox or other options that use MOST bus.