What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by Petro135

This does not affect the brakes in any way? What are they there for?

They don't affect MY brakes in any way. AFAIK they are to damp harmonics that cause squealing. Owners of "luxury" vehicles don't like squealing. YMMV

[Afam28]

Just got my car back from my Indy shop...
New turbos were spooling exceptional...
15 mins later...
Red coolant warning and fan running at top speed...
Followed by loss of power...
1hr and a tow truck later, she is is at a dealership waiting for what seems like an obvious diagnosis...
Hopefully(luckily) my aftermarket warranty takes care of this...
(Most likely water pump)

My SA also said that if I didn't have index 11 injectors of better, getting any dinan software update(in my case dinan stage 3) would be a bad idea(would cause injectors to fail)...
Unfortunately the recall for injectors hasn't hit their system yet!
Any thoughts on this?

I spend 50 days in Afghanistan dreaming of driving with my new turbos...
Only to have my car go right back to the shop lol...
They gave me a 2020 330xi as a loaner, very uninspiring!

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by Petro135

This does not affect the brakes in any way? What are they there for?

Change the harmonics on the caliper so they make less noise.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

Got bored. Lost 2.79 pounds of unsprung weight, 1.39 per side (1.266 kg/633 g for those that don't "Imperial"). I have detected no ill effects so far. I'll touch up the bare aluminum at some point.

I've had calipers like this for months and a couple thousand miles with no issues.

Can confirm, the ears are damn near spot on 0.75 lbs each per my and a few others scales.

[duder13]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

Got bored. Lost 2.79 pounds of unsprung weight, 1.39 per side (1.266 kg/633 g for those that don't "Imperial"). I have detected no ill effects so far. I'll touch up the bare aluminum at some point.

May I ask where you got those wheel center caps? Did they come with your wheels, or are they available somewhere? Thanks!

[anglocanadian]

Originally Posted by Petro135

This does not affect the brakes in any way? What are they there for?

I had a friend that worked at GM when they were building the new Camaro and they had to add weight to the calipers to reduce vibration .

[b1aze]

Double checked that the BMWPerf brake kit clears on these barrels. It’s close but it should clear perfect!

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by duder13

May I ask where you got those wheel center caps? Did they come with your wheels, or are they available somewhere? Thanks!

LOL, $14 on Ebay for the set.

[$iriu$black]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

LOL, $14 on Ebay for the set.

Any link you can share mate? They look like they’re polished metal, or are they not? For the price I’m assuming they aren’t.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by $iriu$black

Any link you can share mate? They look like they’re polished metal, or are they not? For the price I’m assuming they aren’t.

Select "Silver". It's an aluminum disc (bonded) to the plastic cap. Nothing fancy, but do the job.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-69mm-6...72.m2749.l2649

[1and1]

Working from home till next month, seems like a great time to put the 1er down for some much needed front end maintenance!

Today I've replaced the tie rods, including fresh boots, and am /finally/ getting around to installing my 1m front control arms. My right side (passenger side here in the US) tie rod was seized, and I wasn't going to do the control arms until that was corrected. Good to go now!

In the past I've always had issues separating ball joints from the knuckle, but these, all six of them, came apart very gracefully! They popped just while removing the nut! Always had to use a pickle fork or other destructive means in the past... Alas, it wasn't to be that easy- Every one of the six fought to get past the last few threads when removing the nut. You know, the threads that have been exposed to the elements for the last hundred thousand miles & eleven/twelve years...

Even using an impact gun I was running the nut up & down, then chasing the threads with a file, then hitting it with the impact again... lots of pb blaster and hours of soak time didn't matter.

So, at this point I've got both tie rods complete and control arms on the drivers side done. Tomorrow I'll finish the passenger side control arms, the headlight adjuster, then put the suspension under load and finish torque the control arms. I'll finish by setting the toe back to where it was before- negative 1/16th. That should hold me till a real alignment...

[gjm120]

^

You're going to like the M arms.

[JimVonBaden]

Spent half a day replacing my valve cover and OFHG. Both leaking badly.

[1and1]

Originally Posted by gjm120

You're going to like the M arms.

Is a nice combo with the Dinan camber plates for sure!

[1and1]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

Spent half a day replacing my valve cover and OFHG. Both leaking badly.

((Snip a bunch of great pics))

Some steady on working there to do both VC and OFHG in a half day! My back hurts just thinking about either, much less both at once!

[chris_flies]

Swapped in an M3 brake master cylinder I found for $60. Was a complete pain in the ass, but it did bolt right up, and now it's all bled and ready to drive. Took almost 3 liters of brake fluid to bleed with INPA (did that because I wanted to be sure all air was out of the valve bodies).

Hoping this will shorten my brake pedal and make heel-toeing easier while threshold braking. 26mm vs 23mm bore/piston for front brakes and same 22mm bore for rear brakes.

One weird thing, though, the brake lights won't turn off unless I pull the pedal up with my hand. The pedal doesn't move when I do so, so I'm at a loss...thoughts?

[iminhell1]

Chris, check and see if you can move the brake switch on the peddle. Odds are the M3 one has a shorter piston to accommodate the lower peddle height.
I have seen some on Fords that have an adjustable plunger. Not sure if ours are or not.

Just a quick look, the switch is the same for all, E chassis cars. And the switch looks adjustable. Pop it out and see what you can find.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Chris, check and see if you can move the brake switch on the peddle. Odds are the M3 one has a shorter piston to accommodate the lower peddle height.
I have seen some on Fords that have an adjustable plunger. Not sure if ours are or not.

Just a quick look, the switch is the same for all, E chassis cars. And the switch looks adjustable. Pop it out and see what you can find.

I figured it out! I just bumped the switch out of place when I loosened the booster from behind the pedals. A firm push and it was fixed.

And oh my goodness, the brakes feel perfect. Nice and taut, it's going to be perfect on the track, I think.

[$iriu$black]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

I figured it out! I just bumped the switch out of place when I loosened the booster from behind the pedals. A firm push and it was fixed.

And oh my goodness, the brakes feel perfect. Nice and taut, it's going to be perfect on the track, I think.

E9X M3 MC chris_flies ?

You’re always the trailblazer brother, keep it up! If this works out for you, all of us with the F30 calipers might or will follow suit!

As an aside, this long and ongoing journey of all of us dealing w the virus has gotten me going car crazy and having a serious case of Porsche car envy. Seriously been thinking of jumping ship as this has always been the end goal- to get into a 987.2S or 987R.

A lot of events I signed up for this year have been OR are in the verge of being cancelled.

Looking at it though, this is a petty, first-world problem, thinking of cars at this time. Apologies if it’s sounding tone-deaf. I’m thankful I have my job, but being in the frontlines now is a case of “damned if I do, damned if I don’t.” Everyday I’m out, I’m risking myself and my family, as well as patients. We are expected to do it, though.

Stay safe out there!

[blue135]

About all the rest of us can say is: Thanks! We appreciate the efforts & be safe.

[Skotcoop]

Changed my wheel studs up and different spacers. Had 5mm all around but removed them all and put 12.5mm in the rear. Now I need stiffer suspension to keep from rubbing on big bumps. And finally took it out and snapped some shots. Much happier with this wheel stud setup. I didn't like the mishimoto aluminum lug nuts and I didn't like how the stud was so far in from the end of the nut. I prefer this look much better. So to run the spacers in the rear I swapped the studs that came with the Mishimoto kit for longer ones and it take out almost perfect between front and rear stud protrusion.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by $iriu$black

E9X M3 MC chris_flies ?

You’re always the trailblazer brother, keep it up! If this works out for you, all of us with the F30 calipers might or will follow suit!

As an aside, this long and ongoing journey of all of us dealing w the virus has gotten me going car crazy and having a serious case of Porsche car envy. Seriously been thinking of jumping ship as this has always been the end goal- to get into a 987.2S or 987R.

A lot of events I signed up for this year have been OR are in the verge of being cancelled.

Looking at it though, this is a petty, first-world problem, thinking of cars at this time. Apologies if it’s sounding tone-deaf. I’m thankful I have my job, but being in the frontlines now is a case of “damned if I do, damned if I don’t.” Everyday I’m out, I’m risking myself and my family, as well as patients. We are expected to do it, though.

Stay safe out there!

Yup, E9x. F8x wouldn't work because of how their braking system works.

I think this is all I've trailblazed so far, but thanks!