What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[mkeiser]

installed a Turner Motorsport N52 Silicone Intake Boot. already had a euro intake... the intake noise difference is subtle.

[parameter416]

Originally Posted by mkeiser

installed a Turner Motorsport N52 Silicone Intake Boot. already had a euro intake... the intake noise difference is subtle.

I did the euro intake and the silicone boot at the same time. There was a noticeable gain in intake noise - really seemed to wake up the engine, especially above 4,000 rpm. It sounds amazing on freeway onramps at WOT in third gear. But because I did them both at the same time, I don't whether to attribute it to the boot or the intake.

[Houranimd49]

I bought it back!

I purchased mine in 2022 and fixed it up. I sold it soon after to buy a house.

Found it for sale a few months back and kept in touch with the seller. Recently took a road trip and went to see the car. I had to have her back. It was a sign.

Many codes to sort through… adaptive headlights are one. I like this feature so I have to sort through it.

Many cosmetic mods to reverse. Need to repaint the seats back to Boston black.

I need the original 261 wheels. I liked them.

I need to return her back to how I had her, but at least I have her back now.

[Donkeyshins]

Originally Posted by parameter416

I did the euro intake and the silicone boot at the same time. There was a noticeable gain in intake noise - really seemed to wake up the engine, especially above 4,000 rpm. It sounds amazing on freeway onramps at WOT in third gear. But because I did them both at the same time, I don't whether to attribute it to the boot or the intake.

I did the Euro intake first, then the silicone boot. The latter definitely added more intake noise than the former.

[cerealwars]

I'm too cheap for $60 pieces of rubber, so I DIYed a resonator delete. I got an extra intake pipe from the junkyard and cut the chamber off, then plugged the hole with some JB weld and a fat washer.

I noticed nothing. Maybe the corrugated walls muffle the sound a bit? But then last weekend I cut the charcoal filter out. I noticed a decent volume increase from that. Obviously nothing drastic, but I can hear some intake now. Worth every penny of Free.99.

[mkeiser]

Originally Posted by Donkeyshins

I did the Euro intake first, then the silicone boot. The latter definitely added more intake noise than the former.

interesting! for me I think the euro intake made the most difference. the intake tube brings a bit of a different tone though. more driving needed

[mizzourahslim]

Changed out original cap for this anodized billet one. Turned to this iridescent shine after taking it out for a drive and getting it hot.

[tjswarbrick]

I never see 1M's in the wild anymore - only shows and events.
Drove to lunch at a local watering hole today. Came out, and an Alpine White one was parked next to me! I didn't meet the driver, but I appreciate that (s)he isn't afraid to take it out. Wheels even had some brake dust on 'em.

[Childish_cambino]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Lots of things you can do to fix this. The 135i needs a LOT of suspension work to make it sharp.

First, square wheels and tires. I recommend 245 or 255 square on the narrow body. This will require pulling and rolling front fenders. Also get yourself some summer tires from a good brand. You'll need a spacer on the front to clear the knuckle.

Second. Negative camber on front wheels, -2* minimum.

Third, front suspension. My recommendation is F82M4 knuckles. E9xM3 dampers and 1M beehive springs. Add dinan fixed camber plates to the top of the 1M tophat. You'll want the 1M lower camber arm and tension strut.

Stock sway bars or 1M sway bars if you have a LSD.

Fourth, rear subframe bushings, aluminium

5th, rear toe arms and M3 lower camber arm, M3 dampers and ~800lb rear linear springs on a height adjuster. Guide rods too if you want but I think the RSFB, toe arm, and lower arm are more important. You'll want a solid upper shock mount.

6th, M3 steering rack, add clutched LSD in final drive of your choice

Last: enjoy your car that now has a proper motorsport chassis.

I’m set up pretty similarly to this at the moment, but I’m curious about your take on the rear toe arms, as its one of the few I don’t have done. Tell me why I need them 😂

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by Houranimd49

I bought it back!

I purchased mine in 2022 and fixed it up. I sold it soon after to buy a house.

Found it for sale a few months back and kept in touch with the seller. Recently took a road trip and went to see the car. I had to have her back. It was a sign.

Many codes to sort through… adaptive headlights are one. I like this feature so I have to sort through it.

Many cosmetic mods to reverse. Need to repaint the seats back to Boston black.

I need the original 261 wheels. I liked them.

I need to return her back to how I had her, but at least I have her back now.

That’s crazy bro. I mean crazy good. ☝️😂

Never heard your story before. Sounds like you have work to do.

[Houranimd49]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

That’s crazy bro. I mean crazy good. ☝️😂

Never heard your story before. Sounds like you have work to do.

I was introduced to bmw at 12 years old. Saw the 1 series for the first time in 2012 (wasn’t common around here). Was enamored by the look of it.

Later, promised myself when I graduate medical school I’ll buy one as an achievement gift. Graduated, had no money, so I found one at auction rear ended. I got that car perfect, all with my own two hands. Perfect spec car for me as well. But life happens, sold it to buy a house.

Since then, I regretted selling it. I thought about that car daily. I kept in touch with the purchaser but he was non-responsive. Saw it on Facebook for sale by different owner than who I sold to. We negotiated for months. I forgot about the whole thing because I got very busy with life.

I booked a road trip to Chicago without that car even in mind (where it was located). He reached out coincidentally and I had to go see it. We couldn’t agree on a price so I left. Later on that week I decided it was worth his asking price and I took another trip (4 hour drive) to go get my baby back. Absolutely no regrets!

Most of the carbon bits are off now. Made many purchases so far to return the car how I had it. Precious owner kept maintaining it well so that’s a nonissue. Still in need of 261 wheel and oem rear diffuser. After that, should be good.

I will add an updated picture soon!

[Ric in RVA]

My BMW dealer contacted me that they have the Vanos bolt fix in and set up an appointment for the repairs.

If you got Vanos bolts recall notice call your dealer and get in line.

If you are lucky...one bolt head will be missing and they will need to pull and reseal the pan and the valve cover taking care of a huge source of BMW oilyness.

[jdt10768]

Originally Posted by Ric in RVA

My BMW dealer contacted me that they have the Vanos bolt fix in and set up an appointment for the repairs.

If you got Vanos bolts recall notice call your dealer and get in line.

If you are lucky...one bolt head will be missing and they will need to pull and reseal the pan and the valve cover taking care of a huge source of BMW oilyness.

Is there a VIN range affected? I did not receive recall notice

[Suprgnat]

I finally got around to fabricating the front suspension carrier/front subframe/front axle support reinforcements I designed back in 2020. Hopefully it won't take as long to install them.

[19Neil]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

Is there a VIN range affected? I did not receive recall notice

I believe late builds were not affected. Mine is 4/13 and doesn't seem to be included.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

I finally got around to fabricating the front suspension carrier/front subframe/front axle support reinforcements I designed back in 2020. Hopefully it won't take as long to install them.

Need details.

[Ric in RVA]

How to Check If Your Vehicle Is Affected:

To find out if your vehicle is part of this recall, you can visit the NHTSA recall website and enter your vehicle identification number (VIN). Alternatively, you can contact a BMW dealership with your VIN, and they can provide information on any recalls specific to your vehicle.


****

Both my 2009 E82 N52 and 2011 F10 N52 are recalled. They will go in back to back in a couple weeks.

Tempted to tell them to do a water pump if they find any missing bolts since they will be doing MOST of the labor any ways to access the pan...

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Need details.

3/16 5052-H32 aluminum.

The reinforcements bolt to the frame where shown with M10 bolts. The 6 red circles are existing hex holes and each requires P/N 07147199279 M10 rivnut be installed. A new hex hole needs to be made approximately where the green circle is. I'll mount that side's reinforcement and use it to locate the new hole. A cage nut is used where the yellow circle is (shown, I think P/N 31116768715. I have it at home, can verify later). 15mm spacers are required are up front.

The reinforcements are designed to fit within the stock belly pan and require no other modifications except the above to mount. They will replace the stiffening bars I already have installed.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

3/16 5052-H32 aluminum.

The reinforcements bolt to the frame where shown with M10 bolts. The 6 red circles are existing hex holes and each requires P/N 07147199279 M10 rivnut be installed. A new hex hole needs to be made approximately where the green circle is. I'll mount that side's reinforcement and use it to locate the new hole. A cage nut is used where the yellow circle is (shown, I think P/N 31116768715. I have it at home, can verify later). 15mm spacers are required are up front.

The reinforcements are designed to fit within the stock belly pan and require no other modifications except the above to mount. They will replace the stiffening bars I already have installed.

Doing this to emulate the M3 front lower bracing? Interesting. I had been planning to just cut and bolt in the M3 brace.

How are you planning to make the hex holes?

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Doing this to emulate the M3 front lower bracing? Interesting. I had been planning to just cut and bolt in the M3 brace.

How are you planning to make the hex holes?

Interesting...could you feel the difference?

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Doing this to emulate the M3 front lower bracing? Interesting. I had been planning to just cut and bolt in the M3 brace.

How are you planning to make the hex holes?

Step drill and a file. At least it's only one hole that needs to be made.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by Ric in RVA

Interesting...could you feel the difference?

Yes.