What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[Ric in RVA]

Mounted my "WINTER" all season tires and wheels.

[$iriu$black]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Sure! So, for the 135i parts list, it includes brake ducts for each wheel (either side of the center lower grille). The M-Sport 128i bumper does not have brake ducts at all. The 135i parts also include a functional outer duct, on the right side, for an oil cooler, which also never came on the 128i. The left outer duct is blocked for both cars, but I'm thinking about doing a Dinan-style ram air intake with it.

This post has a good collection of pictures. The blue car (about halfway down) shows it really well. Most of the other cars don't have the brake ducts, or it isn't very visible.

Were you able to have the bumper painted and acquire the air duct parts from
Overseas?

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by $iriu$black

Were you able to have the bumper painted and acquire the air duct parts from
Overseas?

It's not painted yet, but I did get the ducts last week

[low135]

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

You’re so lucky on that oil pan leak!
Mines was more thank that, and all out of pocket.

New, unrelated, problem:

My wife just upgraded me to an iPhone11 Pro.
Doesn’t look like MHD runs on iOS yet.
Any ideas on an Android Emulator for iOS that will allow me to not throw away my $250 tuner/ code reader?

The issue isn't that the app isn't available on iOS, it's because Apple doesn't support the OTG protocol. That is the reason it isn't supported for iOS. MHD won't be supported with iOS until it's ready for full Bluetooth release. As mentioned, your option is to get a cheap Android phone or tablet. Try looking on swappa, that's where I buy used phones.

[low135]

Attacked a bit more of this today. Door, hood and partial trunk were done. Bumpers, windshield and trunk surround are all that's left! Excited to see it all done and the rest of the carbon on. Went back to the OEM roundels as well. I like how they break up the carbon/black on the hood. Also, sending out my headlights in two weeks for new angel eyes and some special touches.

[chris_flies]

Replaced the rear brake pads. Wore them right down to the bitter end (about .5mm of pad material left). FCP Euro, of course

Also thoroughly enjoying the exhaust, it's so classy sounding...

[CH400EM]

@Gangplank thanks for the info!

Last night I finally got around to some paint correction on the jet black. Still needs some pro-level work, but much better.

[duder13]

Originally Posted by xQx

Yesterday I got to drive the car in torrential rain for the first time since installing the new hood (with vents) and using NCS Expert to update my DSC settings to match that in a 1M.

Specifically:

UEBERSTEUERN_MUE_0 // Understeer Friction Coefficient 0
1M:   wert_00
UEBERSTEUERN_MUE_1_2 // Understeer Friction Coefficient 1 2 [DATA<128 
1M:   wert_00 
UNTERSTEUERSCHWELLE // Understeer Threshold
1M:   wert_00

So, I can report the 'anti-water' measures I made to the vents worked exactly as planned... so yay

.. and now I can see why people rate the 1M entirely differently on test drives on the track compared with the 135i, because with those DSC settings and a mechanical LSD in a 135i.... HOLY CRAP.

With DTC set to the single-push setting, it'll stop you from lighting up the tires around a tight corner from a standstill, but if you try to step the back out at 25mph in 2nd it won't stop you. ... seemingly, at all. ... I don't know where it intervenes to pull you back in, because I run out of balls (and probably road) well before that point. (even in the dry)

It'll also let the back wiggle like a worm without intervening if you're exceeding rear-wheel traction in a straight line.

I'm honestly not sure if it's too much for my skill level on public roads in this car ... or if I just have to work harder on 'modulating the throttle' and fork out for mods to tighten up the suspension

Hi. Did you change to all of the 1M DSC settings listed in that other thread, or just those three? I’m trying to figure out how much to change. Thanks!

[Petro135]

Tackling some auto body today that's been annoying me. It was my quick fix a couple months ago, now I learned. No fix is quick

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Just buy a cheap ebay android phone. Easiest option.

Originally Posted by low135

The issue isn't that the app isn't available on iOS, it's because Apple doesn't support the OTG protocol. That is the reason it isn't supported for iOS. MHD won't be supported with iOS until it's ready for full Bluetooth release. As mentioned, your option is to get a cheap Android phone or tablet. Try looking on swappa, that's where I buy used phones.

Thanks guys!
Actually, they reneged on the trade-in deal and offered me a whopping $10 toward a $1000 phone for my LG V20.
So, I kept the V20 and it's lousy no-charge-holding battery, just for MHD.
(Yes, I know the battery is replaceable on this one. 1st replacement acts different from but lasts no longer than original; 2nd replacement got hot and puffed up and has been sent away.)

Good thing, too! SES light came on Saturday.
I don't recall the Active code, and will likely start another thread when I find it, but it's something like Intake Air Temp Changing Too quickly.
I didn't clear the code, but the light did not come on this morning.
(Did the same thing last weekend - light come on Saturday afternoon, car drove fine, light on all day Sunday, then off on Monday.)
I'm kinda more worried about all the Shadow codes it presented:
VANOS timing off, misfires in Cyl 1 and Multiple Cylinders, High Fuel Pressure too low...
Had HPFP replaced June 2017 - like 40,000 miles ago. Hopefully I don't need to go through that again. Or VANOS???

[xQx]

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Thanks guys!
Actually, they reneged on the trade-in deal and offered me a whopping $10 toward a $1000 phone for my LG V20.
So, I kept the V20 and it's lousy no-charge-holding battery, just for MHD.
(Yes, I know the battery is replaceable on this one. 1st replacement acts different from but lasts no longer than original; 2nd replacement got hot and puffed up and has been sent away.)

Whats the date on the batteries?

They're about $15USD on eBay, but you need to make sure you're buying from a seller who's got new batteries. Most sellers (even genuine shops) will be trying to flog you their 2016 batteries that they stocked up on when the phone came out.

I've had to replace the battery in my V20 about every 6 months since I got it so it still holds enough charge to get through a 12 hour day - now I've got plenty of spares, but I'll tell you - the 2018 batteries hold a lot more charge than the 2016 ones do (probably just due to shelf-life).

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by xQx

Whats the date on the batteries?

They're about $15USD on eBay, but you need to make sure you're buying from a seller who's got new batteries. Most sellers (even genuine shops) will be trying to flog you their 2016 batteries that they stocked up on when the phone came out.

I've had to replace the battery in my V20 about every 6 months since I got it so it still holds enough charge to get through a 12 hour day - now I've got plenty of spares, but I'll tell you - the 2018 batteries hold a lot more charge than the 2016 ones do (probably just due to shelf-life).

Interesting.
Newest one - all puffed up (not quite sure how best to dispose of it yet) bought from iFixit in May of this year - Mfr date is July 2018. I'm guessing faulty manufacturing / internal short-circuits.
Older replacement was an off brand (even though it was advertised as Original.) I'll need to check for a date code when I get home. It lasted longer than the OE battery for about 6 months.

[chris_flies]

Put together a recording I made of my stock exhaust and another of my new setup (Corsa 135i Axle-Back and BMW Performance Y-Pipe):

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LV...7DIQuyKNmeh_v6

Starts off with a cold start, then very light driving for a couple minutes, then a medium acceleration, then another couple of minutes through a neighborhood (shows off the gurgles and burbles of the new setup), and then two hard accelerations, before going back through the neighborhood, another medium acceleration, then some light driving before it ends.

I'm immensely happy with the setup. There's a ton of rasp from 2500-3000rpm, but that's my only complaint.

[BMWL0v3r]

I've been comparing new all season tires for my baby. I have had winter and summer tires apart but now i think i would like to buy all season tires cause here in Finland aren't much snow but sometimes the roads get icy. What do you think? Do you have any experience from all season tires? Buy or not?

I have been comparing between Michelin https://www.michelin.fi/auto/tyres/michelin-x-ice-xi3 and Nokian Z line https://www.nokiantires.com/tires/pa...-season-tires/

Also i checked my breaks that they are all good. Cleaned 1er from inside

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by BMWL0v3r

I've been comparing new all season tires for my baby. I have had winter and summer tires apart but now i think i would like to buy all season tires cause here in Finland aren't much snow but sometimes the roads get icy. What do you think? Do you have any experience from all season tires? Buy or not?

I have been comparing between Michelin https://www.michelin.fi/auto/tyres/michelin-x-ice-xi3 and Nokian Z line https://www.nokiantires.com/tires/pa...-season-tires/

Also i checked my breaks that they are all good. Cleaned 1er from inside

I'm not an expert by any means, all I know is Dunlop SP Sport8000's don't do snow AT ALL.
But isn't the X-Ice 3 a winter tire?

Actually, maybe I exaggerated, and do have a tiny bit to offer.
Top notch Summer performance tires are awesome in the summer, and in the rain. Useless in snow.
Had a set of Bridgestone All-Season's on my Jetta 20 years ago (they've only gotten better.) Doesn't snow where I live, but I took it up skiing in Tahoe, both in spring where the only snow is the icy parking lot, and in a blizzard that had my buddy's mud-tired Toyota pickup scrabbling for traction. I had zero issues the whole way up.
I liked those tires okay in the summer, but they couldn't hang with the Potenza's I replaced 'em with. (Had an SUV for snow duties by then.)

Also, actual snow tires blow all-seasons away when there's actual ice or snow to contend with.

So, I guess it depends on what you want. Do you want to be compromised but functional at all times and never be inconvenienced to change tires? Michelin, Bridgestone, Conti, Yoko, Nokian and Vredestein make some highly regarded decent-performing snow-capable all-season Grand Touring tires.

Do you want to optimize performance, handling, safety and grip for all seasons and conditions to enjoy your BMW to the max? Get some max performance summers, and dedicated snows.

Good luck!

[CH400EM]

Originally Posted by BMWL0v3r

Do you have any experience from all season tires? Buy or not?

I pretty much agree with what's been said.

But one thought is that the choice is very vehicle specific. I have Michelin pilot a/s 3+ on my classic Mercedes and they have plenty of grip and performance for what the car is capable of. Also I don't tend to drive it in poor weather and the tires are comfortable.

I have Conti DWS 06 on a Subaru Crosstrek and I like those a lot. Been off road, through snow, rain, dry highway and performance has been great - but it is a light, low HP, AWD car... so the tires work great with the cars ability. Higher powered cars tend to find a soft sidewall on these tires.

I am running the A/S 3+ on the 135i and the wet traction is lacking, and overall the tires just don't match the potential of the car in most situations I drive. With a higher HP/torque, RWD car like the 1er I would definitely run dedicated summers and winters, otherwise the car gets less capable and thus less enjoyable. Just my thoughts. Good luck

[mfindigital]

Originally Posted by low135

Attacked a bit more of this today. Door, hood and partial trunk were done. Bumpers, windshield and trunk surround are all that's left! Excited to see it all done and the rest of the carbon on. Went back to the OEM roundels as well. I like how they break up the carbon/black on the hood. Also, sending out my headlights in two weeks for new angel eyes and some special touches.

Man, the factory rear fenders look so much better than the n5tuner ones. love red paint on goldish wheels.

[smeard]

Took all my belongings out of my car, i got tboned by a maxima going at a clip. Rest in peace

[low135]

Originally Posted by mfindigital

Man, the factory rear fenders look so much better than the n5tuner ones. love red paint on goldish wheels.

Not N5Tuner flares, these were molded right from a 1M. The reason they kind of look like that is the rear bumper isn't on right now so the quarter just stops abruptly haha here it is all put together

[BMWWorld]

Since I got the car, I've done some minor things to it. This week I polished the headlights & clear coated them, installed the rear black lines, installed the FXX style grilles & about an hour ago I did the rear fog light mod. Tomorrow I'll be clear coating with UV protectant clear the cf roof spoiler, maybe I'll be able to instal it tomorrow & before Friday I'll be taking the car to the glass shop to instal a new windshield, since the one it has is cracked.

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by low135

Attacked a bit more of this today. Door, hood and partial trunk were done. Bumpers, windshield and trunk surround are all that's left! Excited to see it all done and the rest of the carbon on. Went back to the OEM roundels as well. I like how they break up the carbon/black on the hood. Also, sending out my headlights in two weeks for new angel eyes and some special touches.

Red is WAY better than green, and green is my favorite color!

[JimVonBaden]

Swapped out all my H7 for LED. Though the supposed canbus friends LEDs are supposed to be good, I still get 6 high beam flickers before they settle in. LOTS of light though.