Oil filter housing gasket replacement

[Hops128i]

my 2010 128i with 75k miles, and i've noticed a oil film around the ofhg for the past year or two. I've seen the DIY and it looks at my skill level, so is this a good pre-emptive maintenance item? Or am i just making more work for myself and should wait until it leaks? I'm close to an oil change and thought it might make the job easier with the oil drained.

[ianc]

It won't be easier with the oil drained, but do it now anyway before it makes a mess leaking oil all over everything and fouling your serpentine belt.

Honestly, one of the crappiest things about this job is cleaning the oil scum off everything, so save yourself a lot of effort and get preemptive...

ianc

[1mang]

Originally Posted by ianc

before it makes a mess leaking oil all over everything and fouling your serpentine belt.

Agreed! This might cause your belt to shred prematurely too!

Since you are doing the oil filter housing gasket, might as well do the oil cooler gasket too in one shot. Those leak as well...

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by 1mang

Agreed! This might cause your belt to shred prematurely too!

Since you are doing the oil filter housing gasket, might as well do the oil cooler gasket too in one shot. Those leak as well...

Doesn't look like he has an oil cooler.

[Hops128i]

Originally Posted by 1mang

Agreed! This might cause your belt to shred prematurely too!

Since you are doing the oil filter housing gasket, might as well do the oil cooler gasket too in one shot. Those leak as well...

Yeah, I've already replaced the belt and tensioner, but sounds like the most are failing because of a ofhg leak

[juld0zer]

Make sure you use the correct E-Torx sockets and not 12pt sockets because someone else got away with it. Those bolts are soft.

Remove the oil filter and syringe out all the remaining oil in the bowl and remove your belt before the starting the job.

[ianc]

remove your belt before the starting the job

You mean the belt that holds up your pants? ;-)

ianc

[juld0zer]

Bahaha! It's become habit for me to not wear a belt when working on cars anyway.

On a more serious note, if the serpentine belt has become contaminated heavily with oil it's best to replace it. Belt is cheap... repairing an engine that has swallowed a belt isnt. Clean the pulleys of all melted rubber in the ribs too.

[Hops128i]

did the ofhg today.... appreciate the advice here, and it wasn't too bad. youtube really helped. As far as the mess, it was mostly coolant, and i did bleed the system afterwards. Took me a while to understand how remove the oil pressure sensor (need to push in the metal clips and pull). For a minute, i thought i had really screwed up when loosening the smallest bolt right across from the radiator. The ratchet e10 i was using got stuck with no way to remove it, but with a little more force i realized i could move the whole housing since i had loosed the other two. Anyway, i wouldn't attempt this project without the e10 ratchet and the 1/4" e10 socket with universal.

[csween86]

I've owned my 135i for 7 years now as the original owner, 3 years outside of warranty, and this same issue will be the first I have had to spend money on to date besides basic maintenance. I went in for a brake fluid flush yesterday, and the dealership said I need to repair a slowly seeping oil filter housing gasket leak and that on their scale of priority to fix it's yellow... Green meaning it's good, yellow-caution/monitor, red-needs to be fixed asap. I love my car and have done all maintenance, usually in advance and keep really good care inside, out, and by how I drive it... I will continue to be proactive instead of reactive and get this fixed asap... Thing is, it's outside of my capabilities... The dealership quoted me 6 hours labor with parts at about 1k total. I know dealerships are more expensive, but are the hours at least legit? I am going to try and find a mechanic outside of the dealership, but I want to at least know I'm not getting bs'd on parts and labor when I go in. Hoping someone sees this who has also had this issue.... thanks

[juld0zer]

6hours would be someone taking their time enjoying their lunchtime. Perhaps losing an intake manifold nut or two, breaking the charge pipe, and finding the top hose and smaller coolant hose swollen due to oil contamination too. Id expect all the stains to be degreased and a spotless engine and undertray too for 6hrs labour.

But seriously, a lot can go wrong not just for amateurs but even for professionals. Charge pipes break because the plastic has probably turned into something resembling rice crackers for durability at your car's age. That alone will multiply your parts cost by a lot.

But it's not a hard job. The hard part is minimising further costs and making sure that you have thoroughly examined the area for contamination.

[csween86]

What would you say is a more reasonable time?

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by csween86

I've owned my 135i for 7 years now as the original owner, 3 years outside of warranty, and this same issue will be the first I have had to spend money on to date besides basic maintenance. I went in for a brake fluid flush yesterday, and the dealership said I need to repair a slowly seeping oil filter housing gasket leak and that on their scale of priority to fix it's yellow... Green meaning it's good, yellow-caution/monitor, red-needs to be fixed asap. I love my car and have done all maintenance, usually in advance and keep really good care inside, out, and by how I drive it... I will continue to be proactive instead of reactive and get this fixed asap... Thing is, it's outside of my capabilities... The dealership quoted me 6 hours labor with parts at about 1k total. I know dealerships are more expensive, but are the hours at least legit? I am going to try and find a mechanic outside of the dealership, but I want to at least know I'm not getting bs'd on parts and labor when I go in. Hoping someone sees this who has also had this issue.... thanks

Just make sure whoever does it understand that ANYTHING allowed into the oil gallery is likely FATAL to your motor.....

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1359507


By the way the new motor has burned NO oil and feels more eager to rev. Maybe a lighter flywheel?

[csween86]

Originally Posted by Ric in RVA

Just make sure whoever does it understand that ANYTHING allowed into the oil gallery is likely FATAL to your motor.....

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1359507


By the way the new motor has burned NO oil and feels more eager to rev. Maybe a lighter flywheel?

I get that this can cause other issues if oil gets to places it shouldn't be, and I hate to sound annoying or stupid, but I don't really feel like I've gotten an answer... Does anyone have the recommended labor time for fixing this issue, that's all I need. I'm trying to avoid being lied to and falling for it when it comes to paying labor costs for this issue.

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by csween86

I get that this can cause other issues if oil gets to places it shouldn't be, and I hate to sound annoying or stupid, but I don't really feel like I've gotten an answer... Does anyone have the recommended labor time for fixing this issue, that's all I need. I'm trying to avoid being lied to and falling for it when it comes to paying labor costs for this issue.

Dealer said 6.5 hours.

When I looked at doing it my plan was.

Pull fan (room to remove belt)
pull belt
pull air filter
pull intake
R&R housing gasket
R&R cooler gasket (Take .5 off if you don't have)

Replace everything you took off.

Dealer price was 825 with all parts.

[csween86]

Originally Posted by Ric in RVA

Dealer said 6.5 hours.

When I looked at doing it my plan was.

Pull fan (room to remove belt)
pull belt
pull air filter
pull intake
R&R housing gasket
R&R cooler gasket (Take .5 off if you don't have)

Replace everything you took off.

Dealer price was 825 with all parts.

Yeah, I was quoted 6 hours labor at about $1k total after parts and labor, so it sounds like they aren't trying to bs me on time.... I just always worry. My SA said expect to pay $750, but prepare for the possibility of the worst case scenario of about $1k. Not sure I want to do this at the dealer. They usually charge way more for labor and significantly more for parts... They are more familiar with the vehicles though... I'm torn.

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by csween86

Yeah, I was quoted 6 hours labor at about $1k total after parts and labor, so it sounds like they aren't trying to bs me on time.... I just always worry. My SA said expect to pay $750, but prepare for the possibility of the worst case scenario of about $1k. Not sure I want to do this at the dealer. They usually charge way more for labor and significantly more for parts... They are more familiar with the vehicles though... I'm torn.

I was hesitant but after they screwed it up and bought me a new(er) motor and installed it I am glad they stood behind their work and had the financial means to pay for the work.

I know not a great reason to chose the dealer....but stuff happens.

[csween86]

Originally Posted by Ric in RVA

I was hesitant but after they screwed it up and bought me a new(er) motor and installed it I am glad they stood behind their work and had the financial means to pay for the work.

I know not a great reason to chose the dealer....but stuff happens.

Same reason I've always gotten my tires changed at bmw. They've messed up my wheels, like taken big chunks out of my rim on multiple wheels, but fixed it no charge, and they usually match tire prices or get it close... I know if a independent mechanic shop or tire place messed my wheels up they likely wouldn't stand by their mistake... Peace of mind thing I guess... I should probably just go to the dealership for this.

[juld0zer]

Call your SA and ask then how many FRUs does BMW allow for the job? I dont have KSD at home but i think 72 FRUs (1 FRU = 5min) is budgeting for a lot of cleaning and testing. You should be charged fairly for the actual job you are paying for. I usually wear the additional time taken to tidy up.

But then again, most dealer techs familiar with the job know that you dont have to fully remove the intake manifold. Just release and elevate it. And bleeding the cooling system.. I reckon they've stung you for each step of the process to inflate the labour cost. You do not need to drain, refill and bleed the cooling system unless the top hose is replaced. If you minimise the loss, you only need to top up less than a litre and run the electric bleed.

[dannypwr]

you should consider changing the oil filter housing gasket for the cooler side, at the same time.

[juld0zer]

Correction: ALWAYS replace both!