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05-15-2016, 08:47 PM | #1 |
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"Ultimate Clutch Pedal" or.... ???
OK, I'm not a great wrench and this is my first serious look into fixing my very annoying 2011 E82 clutch pedal throw. I haven't measured it yet, but the throw from "at rest" to fully depressed is maybe 8-10 inches. But clutch release and engagement is at maybe the top three inches of the pedal throw. Is this normal? Because it's always been a bit of a pain, but on track it's a problem.
There's a pedal called "Ultimate Clutch Pedal" or "UCP" sold by all the major Bimmer suppliers. Would that cure it? Or is there another better way? I'd also ask about the sloppy distancing of the throttle and brake pedals (which interferes with heel/toe, at least in my case), but maybe that's a whole different thread.
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2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT |
05-16-2016, 06:22 AM | #3 |
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No, haven't tried bleeding the clutch. It's always been like this over ~35k miles of use, so it never occurred to me.
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2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT |
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05-16-2016, 10:53 AM | #5 |
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ditto on the clutch stop, the clutch is pretty awful stock
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05-16-2016, 12:01 PM | #6 |
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I'll start with the clutch stop, that seems like it might do the trick. Thanks to both of you.
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2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT |
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05-16-2016, 01:33 PM | #7 |
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05-16-2016, 03:38 PM | #8 | |
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made a massive difference on mine. gears go in smoother no more crunches (I used to think it was me!!). for me installing the bms clutch stop with the clutch delay valve meant I crunched gears fairly often (maybe my cdv wasn't working properly? : ) I ended up getting rid of the clutch stop. so do the cdv before the clutch stop. I'm yet to put the stop back in but I'm pretty sure it'll be fine now. the clutch feel is so much better without the cdv no more vagueness engaging the clutch or jerkiness changing gears. I only wish i did it sooner!! while you're there make sure you bleed the clutch - you really should anyway when removing the cdv. |
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05-19-2016, 06:42 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT |
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05-19-2016, 06:51 AM | #10 |
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my last upgrade to clutch feel was the 550i clutch and pressure plate too, it kinda sucks that it took all of that to get a nice positive clutch feel similar to my m roadster and saab 9-3
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05-19-2016, 07:09 AM | #11 | |
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Clutch was terrible prior to pulling it out. My post on it. You will see why it is needed when you see how small the orifice is that you are push fluid through. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=23
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05-22-2016, 02:15 PM | #12 |
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Installed the BMS clutch stop yesterday, and after 2+ years cursing at the clutch throw I'm finally happy. After pulling the puny BMW OE clutch stop, I did wonder (once again) what BMW had been thinking in that design.
I'm going to consider the CDV but not sure it's needed. Unless it'll make me even happier. Thanks to all you guys for pointing me in the right direction.
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2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT |
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05-22-2016, 05:55 PM | #13 | |
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Seriously. It is a huge difference.
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05-22-2016, 06:09 PM | #14 |
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05-23-2016, 09:57 AM | #15 |
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Allright, allright, allright already!
I'll do it when I have the diff installed next month.
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2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT Last edited by geeyore; 05-23-2016 at 10:19 AM.. |
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06-06-2016, 02:37 PM | #16 |
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+3 on CDV Delete. It's mandatory AND will make you happy!
I haven't replaced the clutch yet, but the 550i unit is going in when the time comes. In the meantime: Clutch Stop + CDV Delete + UCP = clutch action like when BMW was enthusiasts building cars for enthusiasts, rather than a committee making cars to pinch pennies and not get sued when people don't know how to drive. Even my wife doesn't crunch the gears anymore. Sounded like a pro pulling away... Do it.
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2012 E88 M-Sport 135i DSB Metallic
COBB CP, ZHP Knob, E60 SSK Lever, E92 M3 FSB, RSFB inserts, Koni Sport, Eibach Pro, UCP, MPSS, AP axle-back, MHD Stage1+ 91 <(O0=[][]=0O)> |
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06-06-2016, 04:41 PM | #17 |
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Doing it Wednesday.
Do you need the clutch stop with UCP? I understood that UCP already had that. No? This is from the HP Autosport write-up: "Includes adjustable clutch stop that allows user to fine-tune the pedal travel distance and carpet clearance." Summing up the DST/DTC nannies and all three pedals, it's taking more than a little attention to remediate BMW's lawyer-engineered driving controls.
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2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT Last edited by geeyore; 06-06-2016 at 04:48 PM.. |
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06-06-2016, 07:00 PM | #18 | |
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I just added 1/2 of the BMS one to mine to REALLY shorten the overtravel at the bottom of the stroke.
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2012 E88 M-Sport 135i DSB Metallic
COBB CP, ZHP Knob, E60 SSK Lever, E92 M3 FSB, RSFB inserts, Koni Sport, Eibach Pro, UCP, MPSS, AP axle-back, MHD Stage1+ 91 <(O0=[][]=0O)> Last edited by tjswarbrick; 06-06-2016 at 08:09 PM.. |
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06-06-2016, 07:22 PM | #19 |
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Curious, does the ucp shorten the distance to engagement as well? That's been my newest want and trying to figure out how.
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06-06-2016, 08:02 PM | #20 | |
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Mine engages right off the floor due to doubling-up on clutch stops. There seems to be an inch or possibly 2 (I think - haven't measured) creep at the top of the stroke. Unable to back-to-back compare, but it seems like less dead space than stock. But it has 3 available spring positions, and I put in the middle and left it. It feels so good and works so well to me that I haven't called Harold or the UCP team to see what the spring positions affect - travel, force, feel, or what. With the stock pedal I couldn't always tell WHEN it was engaging. Now it's clear and positive every time, which to me is even more important. Such an improvement - highly recommended. And I don't think I mentioned it here - not exactly an "easy" install, but not too nasty and much easier than swapping bushings and replacing the stock pedal.
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2012 E88 M-Sport 135i DSB Metallic
COBB CP, ZHP Knob, E60 SSK Lever, E92 M3 FSB, RSFB inserts, Koni Sport, Eibach Pro, UCP, MPSS, AP axle-back, MHD Stage1+ 91 <(O0=[][]=0O)> Last edited by tjswarbrick; 06-06-2016 at 08:12 PM.. |
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06-06-2016, 08:22 PM | #21 | |
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All considered, I still like the idea of switching to brass bushings. UCP is quite pricey for what it is.
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06-06-2016, 09:22 PM | #22 | |
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Before the BMS clutch stop the total throw top to bottom seemed like 10 inches (I never measured), and engagement was/is only at the top (maybe) 2-3 inches. It seems ridiculous and was always kind of annoying, more so on track and made shifts and blipping up and down very awkward. I suppose (or hope) that it's the CDV which makes engagement almost unpredictable, like there's some kind of tricky lawyer-devised clutch nanny with a mind of its own. Ironically a new Sprint Booster makes it even more pronounced, because throttle voltage is ramped up and matching throttle with the currently-small engagement point is a challenge (but I can disable Sprint Booster easily, so no biggie). OK, so my first step is CDV delete and then add UCP to the high priority punch list (which always gets larger not smaller). Tracking Saturday after CDV delete and several other new pedal mods so I'll see how that all fits together first.
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2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT |
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