What will I need to install FMIC and charge pipe?

Zombie1 · 12-01-2013, 09:44 AM

What's up guys like the title says, what tools will I need? I figure its easy enough to install on my own and safe myself some money instead of letting a shop do the install. It's a cobb FMIC and ER charge pipe.

135Pats · 12-01-2013, 02:01 PM

Basic hand tools and a dremel. Both jobs are mechanically simple but a bit frustrating due to a few tight spots.

hyphy1 · 12-01-2013, 02:09 PM

dremel for? I thought PnP?

Zombie1 · 12-01-2013, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Basic hand tools and a dremel. Both jobs are mechanically simple but a bit frustrating due to a few tight spots.

Alright thanks for the response.

Dackelone · 12-01-2013, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hyphy1

dremel for? I thought PnP?

You will have to cut off the factory clamps on the IC hoses with a dremel or the like.

Freon · 12-02-2013, 02:23 PM

Cobb probably includes instructions...

marc@x-ph.com · 12-02-2013, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freon

Cobb probably includes instructions...

+1,

there it is for the FMIC:
https://cobb.app.box.com/7b1500instructions

MuNkY6913 · 12-02-2013, 04:06 PM

You don't need to cut factory clamps!!! They pop off. There is a seam that you have to find. If you get a screw driver under that seam and pry gently, so you don't bend the tubing very much, it will pop off. I think I still have mine and can show you the seam. I'll look for it a little bit later.

Zombie1 · 12-02-2013, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freon

Cobb probably includes instructions...

I bought used. Seller didn't include them

MuNkY6913 · 12-02-2013, 07:43 PM

Marc gave a link to the instructions. Really good instructions. Better than what I got. Hahaha. It shows a pic of the seam on the clamp on the turbo outlet tube. I was getting real nervous when trying to cut it. Then I saw the seam and it just popped off when I pried at it. Everything else is pretty much just bolts and those pressure c clamps that just slide in.

jturboawd · 12-02-2013, 07:52 PM

note on cutting the clamps. It looks like its installed using a solid ring, its not, its a T-ring. It can be a PITA to remove though. Takes a few picks, flat tip, mirror, light, and a little patience. First one came right off, second one tool a good 10 minutes.

Hand tools, dremel, zip ties (to clean up wiring). You will need a torq set and picks that some would say is not included in typical hand tool set.

Cobb should be easy, minimal cutting. I installed a giant CXRacing unit and it took time to do it right, downside of a cheap kit.

Good luck and have fun

Stohlen · 12-03-2013, 07:29 AM

If you install the cobb unit properly there will be no need for a dremel. Everything cobb makes is plug and play.

Zombie1 · 12-03-2013, 07:45 AM

Thanks guys!

marc@x-ph.com · 12-03-2013, 10:13 AM

post some pics.

and hey why not log two or three third gears on stock FMIC, and then on COBB (same starting conditions, and same map!!).
would be cool to see the huge benefit

MuNkY6913 · 12-03-2013, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marc@x-ph.com

post some pics.

and hey why not log two or three third gears on stock FMIC, and then on COBB (same starting conditions, and same map!!).
would be cool to see the huge benefit

Yes please!!!!! I did on mine but I haven't seen very many before and after logs of another model.

Zombie1 · 12-03-2013, 06:59 PM

Will do guys, I'm going to get a baseline dyno before I install so when I go FBO and pro tune I can see the gains.

12-01-2013, 09:44 AM	#1
Zombie1 Colonel 171 Rep 2,347 Posts Drives: BMW 135i 2010 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Island long iTrader: (6)	What will I need to install FMIC and charge pipe? What's up guys like the title says, what tools will I need? I figure its easy enough to install on my own and safe myself some money instead of letting a shop do the install. It's a cobb FMIC and ER charge pipe. __________________ Mods:-Berkexhaust -alpinaB3flash -CobbAP -Cobb FMIC -ER charge pipe tialQ bov -M3 front sway bar -M3 subframe bushings -M3 front upper and lower control arms -M3 guide rods -M3 rear upper control arms -Mfactory LSD -defiv lockdown kit -TC Kline SA coilovers /camber plates- HP rear toe arms
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12-01-2013, 02:01 PM	#2
135Pats Major General 456 Rep 6,478 Posts Drives: A few BMWs Join Date: May 2012 Location: Maryland iTrader: (3)	Basic hand tools and a dremel. Both jobs are mechanically simple but a bit frustrating due to a few tight spots. __________________ E88 N54 Alpinweiss/Coral Red/Motiv HTA 3586r Tial .82AR/Other stuff...652WHP F30 N55 XDrive EBII
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12-01-2013, 02:09 PM	#3
hyphy1 Second Lieutenant 26 Rep 274 Posts Drives: 2010 135i Join Date: May 2012 Location: California iTrader: (0)	dremel for? I thought PnP? __________________ 2010 135i N54 Black/Black For Sale!
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12-02-2013, 02:23 PM	#6
Freon Major 81 Rep 1,051 Posts Drives: 2009 135i Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Indianapolis iTrader: (3)	Cobb probably includes instructions... __________________ 2009 BMW 135i 6MT Sport, AFE intake, Cobb AP, Apex 18x8.5+9.5, 255/275 PSS
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12-02-2013, 04:06 PM	#8
MuNkY6913 The Crowing 111 Rep 2,005 Posts Drives: BMW 135i Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: State College, PA iTrader: (4) Garage List 2009 135i [8.00]	You don't need to cut factory clamps!!! They pop off. There is a seam that you have to find. If you get a screw driver under that seam and pry gently, so you don't bend the tubing very much, it will pop off. I think I still have mine and can show you the seam. I'll look for it a little bit later. __________________ 2009 135i : BMS JB4 G5 ISO,CXRacing FMIC Kit,Injen Cold Air Intake,Evolution Raceworks Charge Pipe,Walboro Inline Fuel Pump, E85 BMS Backend Flash w/ 60% E85,BMS Meth injection (trunkmount),BMS dual meth nozzles,Spec stage 2+ clutch w/ steel SWFW,BMS Catless Downpipes,Berk Tech Race Axleback
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12-02-2013, 07:43 PM	#10
MuNkY6913 The Crowing 111 Rep 2,005 Posts Drives: BMW 135i Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: State College, PA iTrader: (4) Garage List 2009 135i [8.00]	Marc gave a link to the instructions. Really good instructions. Better than what I got. Hahaha. It shows a pic of the seam on the clamp on the turbo outlet tube. I was getting real nervous when trying to cut it. Then I saw the seam and it just popped off when I pried at it. Everything else is pretty much just bolts and those pressure c clamps that just slide in. __________________ 2009 135i : BMS JB4 G5 ISO,CXRacing FMIC Kit,Injen Cold Air Intake,Evolution Raceworks Charge Pipe,Walboro Inline Fuel Pump, E85 BMS Backend Flash w/ 60% E85,BMS Meth injection (trunkmount),BMS dual meth nozzles,Spec stage 2+ clutch w/ steel SWFW,BMS Catless Downpipes,Berk Tech Race Axleback
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12-02-2013, 07:52 PM	#11
jturboawd Private First Class 55 Rep 182 Posts Drives: e36, e46, 135i, m4, x4m Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: houston iTrader: (0)	note on cutting the clamps. It looks like its installed using a solid ring, its not, its a T-ring. It can be a PITA to remove though. Takes a few picks, flat tip, mirror, light, and a little patience. First one came right off, second one tool a good 10 minutes. Hand tools, dremel, zip ties (to clean up wiring). You will need a torq set and picks that some would say is not included in typical hand tool set. Cobb should be easy, minimal cutting. I installed a giant CXRacing unit and it took time to do it right, downside of a cheap kit. Good luck and have fun
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12-03-2013, 07:29 AM	#12
Stohlen Major 66 Rep 1,267 Posts Drives: AW 135i Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Waterford, Mi iTrader: (2) Garage List 2008 BMW 135i [5.66]	If you install the cobb unit properly there will be no need for a dremel. Everything cobb makes is plug and play. __________________ Build thread: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748935
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12-03-2013, 07:45 AM	#13
Zombie1 Colonel 171 Rep 2,347 Posts Drives: BMW 135i 2010 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Island long iTrader: (6)	Thanks guys! __________________ Mods:-Berkexhaust -alpinaB3flash -CobbAP -Cobb FMIC -ER charge pipe tialQ bov -M3 front sway bar -M3 subframe bushings -M3 front upper and lower control arms -M3 guide rods -M3 rear upper control arms -Mfactory LSD -defiv lockdown kit -TC Kline SA coilovers /camber plates- HP rear toe arms
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12-03-2013, 10:13 AM	#14
marc@x-ph.com Captain 15 Rep 678 Posts Drives: 2010 e92 335i Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	post some pics. and hey why not log two or three third gears on stock FMIC, and then on COBB (same starting conditions, and same map!!). would be cool to see the huge benefit
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12-03-2013, 06:59 PM	#16
Zombie1 Colonel 171 Rep 2,347 Posts Drives: BMW 135i 2010 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Island long iTrader: (6)	Will do guys, I'm going to get a baseline dyno before I install so when I go FBO and pro tune I can see the gains. __________________ Mods:-Berkexhaust -alpinaB3flash -CobbAP -Cobb FMIC -ER charge pipe tialQ bov -M3 front sway bar -M3 subframe bushings -M3 front upper and lower control arms -M3 guide rods -M3 rear upper control arms -Mfactory LSD -defiv lockdown kit -TC Kline SA coilovers /camber plates- HP rear toe arms
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