2008 128i Vibration during acceleration

[Dannyx1]

Hi all!

Recently bought my first 1 series (128i)
Car is currently at 142k miles with the 6 speed auto

As of recently I've noticed on cold starts the car will kind of rumble and jump RPM's (as if it has a slight misfire) but runs and drives great, until it warms up of course. Once the car is at full operation temperature (20 minutes after driving or so) it'll start to vibrate/hesitate going through gears 2-6 only.

If I push the throttle (WOT) it'll go away or if I put the car into sport mode it'll also eliminate the issue.

I've read many places it's the coils/plugs and or transmission filter and fluid.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Has anyone solved the issue?

Thank you for any help! Much appreciated.

[BikeNHV]

Have you tried scanning codes yet? If not, definitely start there.
Could be a few things, hard to say without more data. Not really familiar with the auto trans on these cars.

[Dannyx1]

Originally Posted by BikeNHV

Have you tried scanning codes yet? If not, definitely start there.
Could be a few things, hard to say without more data. Not really familiar with the auto trans on these cars.

Originally Posted by BikeNHV

Have you tried scanning codes yet? If not, definitely start there.
Could be a few things, hard to say without more data. Not really familiar with the auto trans on these cars.

I've scanned codes with my OBD-II scanner. No codes are stores on the car.

[dtla1]

Any weird noises/hisses? Does it stumble at idle too?

[Lester]

Do you know the service history? If it hasn't had plugs and coils replaced - then it's way past due. It could also be VANOS valves (two of them) that can be cleaned or replaced.

[Dannyx1]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Any weird noises/hisses? Does it stumble at idle too?

Only weird hiss/whistle would be in my dash haha. Sometimes is there sometimes isn't. Does stumble at idle but only on cold starts after it's been driven for a second

[Dannyx1]

Originally Posted by Lester

Do you know the service history? If it hasn't had plugs and coils replaced - then it's way past due. It could also be VANOS valves (two of them) that can be cleaned or replaced.

Just replaced coil packs! I'm about to go for a drive! I'll let you guys know what happens

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by Lester

Do you know the service history? If it hasn't had plugs and coils replaced - then it's way past due. It could also be VANOS valves (two of them) that can be cleaned or replaced.

I'd clean the VANOS check valves as well.

[jdt10768]

Originally Posted by Dannyx1

Just replaced coil packs! I'm about to go for a drive! I'll let you guys know what happens

Did you look at spark plugs at same time??
How did the new coils do?

[Dannyx1]

Originally Posted by jdt10768

Did you look at spark plugs at same time??
How did the new coils do?

I didn't. Coils made a slight difference, nothing crazy

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Dannyx1

I've scanned codes with my OBD-II scanner. No codes are stores on the car.

You need a scanner that can read BMW codes. Scanning just for OBD2 codes won't get you far.

And if you are replacing coils, always replace the plugs at the same time. Why do the job twice. Worn plugs is one of the main reasons coils fail.

[Dannyx1]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

You need a scanner that can read BMW codes. Scanning just for OBD2 codes won't get you far.

And if you are replacing coils, always replace the plugs at the same time. Why do the job twice. Worn plugs is one of the main reasons coils fail.

A code came up this morning after I had the car at (WOT) to pass someone. Code was P143E

I turned the car off and started it and it's gone.

When the CEL came on it was running terrible, I couldn't barley drive it.

[BikeNHV]

Check this out:

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=969372

Is the car an N51? (SULEV). If so you may still have a bit of warranty left on this issue, just bring it to the dealer.

[Dannyx1]

Originally Posted by BikeNHV

Check this out:

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=969372

Is the car an N51? (SULEV). If so you may still have a bit of warranty left on this issue, just bring it to the dealer.

N52

[WDE82]

Why would you do all the work to replace coils and not replace spark plugs? They're like $40 total.

[Lester]

You need the special spark plug socket.

[dad2twins]

I have the same issue- runs smooth until warms up- then it shudders upon acceleration- not so bad in sport or manual mode.
Replaced vanos, plugs and coils- no change- thinking it's the crappy GM transmission- there is a TSB regarding the issue- states to add a friction modifier to trans fluid- "dr lube"
Havent had time to do it yet-

[NorthernDancer]

Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and go to an expert:
https://www.bimrs.org/

[Dannyx1]

Originally Posted by dad2twins

I have the same issue- runs smooth until warms up- then it shudders upon acceleration- not so bad in sport or manual mode.
Replaced vanos, plugs and coils- no change- thinking it's the crappy GM transmission- there is a TSB regarding the issue- states to add a friction modifier to trans fluid- "dr lube"
Havent had time to do it yet-

I found the issue. It's code P143E. This code has to do with a temp sensor that is attached to the radiator. Only way to safely replace it is to have a dealer do it and or buy the $500 radiator from BMW and replace the whole unit yourself. I watched a video of someone replacing the sensor with a Mercedes unit but it was tricky work. How I fixed the shuttering and vibration was to constantly floor it getting on the freeway and have it go into limp mode for the ecu to reset itself. Turning the car off then back on after will fix the issue. I no longer have the code or vibration. Our cars are supposed to be under warranty for this issue if it's under 150k miles or less than 15 years of age. The dealer won't cover mine anymore as of this year emissions is no longer a things. The issue stems from the tricky emissions policy and odd parts that fail.