Step by step LSD install

[BMWX1-35i]

I'm going to order a MFactory LSD and I come from the Muscle car world. So, with my lack of knowledge with BMW's, I would like to see a step by step. I'm not sure what I will run into with pulling the half shafts and pulling the OEM LSD with the pumpkin still in the car.

I like to be prepared, so a step by step (with pic's would be great) on performing this would be greatly appreciated. I'll be doing this on jack stands so, if anyone has already done this, any input would be great!! I know the biggest PITA will be pulling the snap rings off but, i'm going to modify a set of large channel locks to fit the bill.

[Dackelone]

First you better have some better tools than just some visegrips!

Buy some good SnapOn clip snap pliers for the axles.

You will also need a special wrench to get off the nut that holds the driveshaft to the diff. You need a SLIM large wrench - I forget the size.

here is a nice DIY writeup...

New Suspension Installed w/ Quaife LSD - DIYhttp://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513534

[BMWX1-35i]

I plan on doing this without removing the diif housing so, I don't need to unbolt the driveshaft. Unless that can't be done. I have seen post were they ground the vise grips to match the snap ring to get them out. That I will worry about when I get to that point. I need some guidance on if this can be done without removing the pumpkin. I just saw a video on axle removal so I'm covered on that part.

[Pig Farmer]

This is an interesting thought, but it's not possible. Even if you can get access to all the differential cover bolts, you won't be able to slide the differential/ring gear out of the pumpkin because of the subframe. When you get under the car, you'll see how the subframe limits access to the differential.

[BMWX1-35i]

humm, that's not good. Okay, is there anything I should be concerned about or special tools needed other then a slim wrench for the drive shaft bolt? I understand there are three bolts holding the pumpkin in place and maybe one brake line that needs to be freed from a bracket I think.

[631twentyeighteye]

This may help in a section that gets more attention than the 128i section. But yes you certainly will have to drop the pumpkin for the swap. Hence why its such a labor intensive process.

For the record, change out the diff bushings and subframe bushings(if you choose to drop it) while your in there.

[BMWX1-35i]

oh, did not notice I posted in the 128 section. Sorry about that.

[TheSt|G]

And while you are in there, definitely replace the diff bushings with something firmer a la the E90 M3 version.

[2tonik]

As the others have said, the rear subframe has to be unbolted and lowered. I had a premier BMW race prep/repair/renovation shop (Korman in Greensboro NC) do it, and they took about 4 hours. The diff is a Quaife built by VAC in Philadelphia.

[Pig Farmer]

There's a bit of confusion going on in this thread. The pumpkin can be removed without dropping the subframe. With the right tools, you should be able to replace the differential bushings without dropping the subframe as well. To install new subframe bushings you need to drop the subframe. And dropping the subframe requires disconnecting the hard brake lines. Here's a pretty good DIY...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...&highlight=LSD

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by Pig Farmer

There's a bit of confusion going on in this thread. The pumpkin can be removed without dropping the subframe. With the right tools, you should be able to replace the differential bushings without dropping the subframe as well. To install new subframe bushings you need to drop the subframe. And dropping the subframe requires disconnecting the hard brake lines. Here's a pretty good DIY...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...&highlight=LSD

Was going to say dropping subframe is NOT necessary for a pumpkin swap.

[c0ris07]

Are you AT or MT?

[SteveAZ]

You do not drop the subframe and unbolting the driveshaft is not a big deal. Just get the 50mm wrench from Rocky Mountain ATV.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...29-50mm?v=1445

You only need 1, just sell the other one.

The deal breaker for me was the snap rings...I said screw it and took it to a diff and driveline specialty shop. Best $175 I ever spent so I didn't have to fight it and you want to make sure the backlash is set up correctly. People complain about the Wavetrac whining....that has not been my experience at all.

While you're in there I recommend new diff bushings, and sub-frame bushings and don't forget new hardware for putting everything back together.

[BMWX1-35i]

Thanks guys, Sorry I did not respond sooner. Been a bit busy here with some family problems. I'll have to give this some thought, not sure I want to tackle this myself. What's the going price for the east cost for doing a swap like this? Been looking around and can't seem to find a good BMW shop that could do this. I sent EFILogic an email but no response yet. They do custom Cobb tuning which I want to get done in the spring.

[BMWX1-35i]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

Are you AT or MT?

Auto

[c0ris07]

Lucky, I'm in the middle of a manual swap and need to source all new bearings including pinion and shims. Pain in the ass...

[Pig Farmer]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

Lucky, I'm in the middle of a manual swap and need to source all new bearings including pinion and shims. Pain in the ass...

I called around looking for replacement bearing for the auto differential without luck. There's a place in the UK that has replacement bearings for the "1series" listed on their website, but they don't fit the 135i. Good luck, and let me know if you find them.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

Lucky, I'm in the middle of a manual swap and need to source all new bearings including pinion and shims. Pain in the ass...

There should be a reference number stamped on the bearing outer race. Any trucking bearing shop should be able to get the correct bearing for you. SKF in Schweinfurt, Germany makes just about every automotive bearing known to man.

Try looking in your local yellow pages under truck supplier/repairs.

Dackel

[MFactory]

We have the medium core bearings available (the AT fitment). It's the large core (the MT fitment) that is impossible to find new. You cannot buy them new, as they are custom made for BMW, so are not a generic bearing like most others.

[c0ris07]

Originally Posted by MFactory

We have the medium core bearings available (the AT fitment). It's the large core (the MT fitment) that is impossible to find new. You cannot buy them new, as they are custom made for BMW, so are not a generic bearing like most others.

You should make people who buy your manual ring & pinion kits aware of this. I only found this out after my diff is out the car and in pieces.

I may have a lead on bearings but still waiting to hear back. If I dont find bearings I will have a very expensive paper weight.

[BMWX1-35i]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

You should make people who buy your manual ring & pinion kits aware of this. I only found this out after my diff is out the car and in pieces.

I may have a lead on bearings but still waiting to hear back. If I dont find bearings I will have a very expensive paper weight.

I would just purchase it from Mfactory now and call it a day..

Hi Stephen (MFactory), did not forget about you. I'll be in touch for that LSD on dec 9 or 10... ;-)

[MFactory]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

You should make people who buy your manual ring & pinion kits aware of this. I only found this out after my diff is out the car and in pieces.

I may have a lead on bearings but still waiting to hear back. If I dont find bearings I will have a very expensive paper weight.

If your old diff bearings are in good condition, you can re-use them. Just make sure you are very careful when you remove them off your old diff.

At the moment, every single BMW diff builder worldwide re-uses the old diff bearings (be it the ones off your diff, or taken from another as spare parts)