HELP! Jb4 map 1, charge pipe neccesary?

[Oklahomabimmer]

Hi all. First bmw, first German car, first go around with turbos. Purchased 08 135i has 101k on her. Within the first week the water pump failed. No dealers around and the only shop I trust is 2.5 weeks out. So I'm playing the waiting game. Picked up a DCI, and a jb4. I have been learning, and trying to learn as much as I can about these cars and engines, converting from na and nitrous-fed lsx engines to the complexity of these engines has been a little demanding. So my question, while running map 1 will I NEED to upgrade the cp? To avoid popoff. Secondly what mechanical failures, and issues can I expect from a 100k+ car. It will be having all injectors cleaned, new oil, water pump, and t-stat. Should I go ahead and have the oil cooler/filter housing gasket replaced? They do not do walnut blasting. I'm not entirely scared to mess with these things, and would take a screw driver to any buildup and a vacuum, but I don't want to have to replace gaskets unless neccesary like I said no dealers, no parts. Are the intake gaskets butyl rubber? As in reusable? Thanks! Hopefully the Oklahoma bmw community will grow!

[Moutamid]

Map 1 is Designed for stock cars ,you don't need to upgrade anything.
Oem Charge pipe will fail even with stock boost by time.
So you should be ok .

[mike@x-ph.com]

CP is not necessary for map 1 .
That being said you should replace your CP when you tune your car because it will fail.

[Grinchxvx]

I would just drive it and do things as they start failing. My car is kind of high mileage too at 88k but has had everything major replaced. With that said I love these twin turbo motors and plan on keeping it for a long time and just dealing with it. If turbos haven't been done those will be next to go out along with gaskets, plugs, coils, and Injectos.
The motors themselves are very reliable it's just all the other stuff that sucks

[saace7]

The things I've replaced since in the last 4k miles of ownership (picked up all the maintenance the PO left undone). Currently at 78,xxx

both complete turbo's (manf. warranty, had rattle)
plugs
coils
ALL fluids and filters
WP and Tstat (covered under warranty but is still a super easy job to DIY)
dampers and springs
left door speaker

I believe the major weak points/known to fail and can be expensive to replace will be: turbo's, water pump/Tstat, coils, and HPFP

HPFP was changed at 25k miles while with PO

I think the replacement parts for these were revised and updated to be more reliable. So once the stock unit is replaced, it should last much longer.


i want to replace all my bushings and do injectors next.

[Miko226]

I was a lucky one and stock CP never failed even at 18+ psi FBO at 75k miles but that is a rarity and i replaced it because i knew at some point it would explode or crack. The cheap plastic breaks down even on stock boost over time so that being said any tune or increase of psi will accelerate the time it takes them to fail. Replacing CP is cheap and is a nice little upgrade actually it streamlines the air intake the engine reducing turbo lag. I didn't expect it to make as much of a difference as it did and for less than $200 Shipped no reason not to replace a known weak link of the engine!

[BLU135i]

I've had JB 4 running on map 5 now for over a year no issues with charge pipe. Now that I've said that.......