N54 leaky injectors problem

[AnShk]

Still do not understand how 93 octane helped to solve the problem with a misfire http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...hlight=misfire


I had problems with cold start, put new coils and spark plugs and now I do not have problems with a start, but rather a minute or two after.

I read that leaky injectors let the fuel on the plugs and until the fuel dries there are misfires. Why it does not happen exactly during the start? High RPMs?

And again, does it makes sense to go for cleaning additives/ cleaner fuel?

[///Mposter]

Leaky injectors cause the spark plugs to be wet, hence a hard cold start or detonation early at start up since it is fouled. Also on start up, extra fuel is dumped to warm the catalytic converter. After the warm up cycle the car reduces fuel and air mixture and the exhaust flap opens. It could be a combination of the end of the warm up cycle and an injector that has a bad spray pattern. The spray pattern could be hitting the spark plug with a straight stream versus a mist. That too would cause fouling more noticeable at idle. Take a look at your plugs and see it one of them has black soot on it. That is the misfire or bad injector. You can use the green E85 cleaner gas treatment. I used 3 bottle in a row, 3 tanks, and had success . The regular fuel treatments feel squeaky on your fingers when you rub them , but the E85 cleaner is like a lube. Maybe that is why it worked. If I find the picture, I will post the one that worked for me.

[///Mposter]

I used these two and I think the Lucas one was like a lubricant .

[Adam135]

The dealership should cover injector replacement if they're leaking. I had that problem myself. Try to get all 6 replaced instead of just one bank.

[AnShk]

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

Leaky injectors cause the spark plugs to be wet, hence a hard cold start or detonation early at start up since it is fouled. Also on start up, extra fuel is dumped to warm the catalytic converter. After the warm up cycle the car reduces fuel and air mixture and the exhaust flap opens. It could be a combination of the end of the warm up cycle and an injector that has a bad spray pattern. The spray pattern could be hitting the spark plug with a straight stream versus a mist. That too would cause fouling more noticeable at idle. Take a look at your plugs and see it one of them has black soot on it. That is the misfire or bad injector. You can use the green E85 cleaner gas treatment. I used 3 bottle in a row, 3 tanks, and had success . The regular fuel treatments feel squeaky on your fingers when you rub them , but the E85 cleaner is like a lube. Maybe that is why it worked. If I find the picture, I will post the one that worked for me.

Thanks! If you tell me that minor fuel smell during misfires can be because of bad spray pattern, than it is a great news for someone who does not want to exchange the injectors but rather clean/lube them?

[AnShk]

Originally Posted by Adam135

The dealership should cover injector replacement if they're leaking. I had that problem myself. Try to get all 6 replaced instead of just one bank.

I had 1 bank replaced, now the second one misses.

[Adam135]

Originally Posted by AnShk

I had 1 bank replaced, now the second one misses.

Same here! Dealership replaced Bank 1 December 2013 due to leaking injector. Starting around May 2014 the car wasn't running very well but dealership wouldn't replace second bank without fault codes. Finally cylinder 5 injector died and dealership just replaced all six injectors and spark plugs. Fingers crossed....

[AnShk]

from other forum. I wonder if someone practice for intake cleaning.

To all of you....xclone's post is 100% spot on (and this comes from a guy who owned 3 N54's). Also, this will happen to any recent production BMW engine since (as of 2012) all BMW motors are direct injection. However, one way to prevent or at least prolong the need for a walnut blasting is to do the following (it has worked for me and others who have gone 100+k miles without needing a walnut blasting)

1) Warm up the engine at low speeds
2) Take car onto interstate or any rural highway capable of traveling at 60+mph
3) Put car in 3rd gear and get it up to 4500rpm
4) Drive at 4500 rpm for about 20-25 minutes
5) Do the above once a month...if you are over 40k miles you might need to do this 4-5 times in a row before you clean out enough carbon buildup to get rid of symptoms
6) Run BMW fuel system cleaner plus once every 5-8k miles (to keep injectors clean...they can get dirty and impact performance)

The theory behind the above is that you get the engine hot enough that it blows the carbon out of the engine. Every time I do this my tailpipes are covered with carbon so that is some proof it works. The engine will run better too. If you do my suggestion I promise you that you can avoid the need for walnut blasting. There are others on the fest that have done this and have had much success with it. The sooner you start doing it the less likely a walnut blasting will be needed.

[A_Squared]

Originally Posted by AnShk

from other forum. I wonder if someone practice for intake cleaning.

To all of you....xclone's post is 100% spot on (and this comes from a guy who owned 3 N54's). Also, this will happen to any recent production BMW engine since (as of 2012) all BMW motors are direct injection. However, one way to prevent or at least prolong the need for a walnut blasting is to do the following (it has worked for me and others who have gone 100+k miles without needing a walnut blasting)

1) Warm up the engine at low speeds
2) Take car onto interstate or any rural highway capable of traveling at 60+mph
3) Put car in 3rd gear and get it up to 4500rpm
4) Drive at 4500 rpm for about 20-25 minutes
5) Do the above once a month...if you are over 40k miles you might need to do this 4-5 times in a row before you clean out enough carbon buildup to get rid of symptoms
6) Run BMW fuel system cleaner plus once every 5-8k miles (to keep injectors clean...they can get dirty and impact performance)

The theory behind the above is that you get the engine hot enough that it blows the carbon out of the engine. Every time I do this my tailpipes are covered with carbon so that is some proof it works. The engine will run better too. If you do my suggestion I promise you that you can avoid the need for walnut blasting. There are others on the fest that have done this and have had much success with it. The sooner you start doing it the less likely a walnut blasting will be needed.

Not buying this at all. I'm convinced there is nothing that's going to prevent or prolong the eventual need for a walnut blast. I offer the walnut blasting service and have done over 10 cars already. From your auto crosser to your drag guys and to the daily drivers, it just needs to be done. You'd be surprised how fast these valves get caked up. Did a car after a walnut blast that was done 20k before and it was as bad as some with 40k. Just the nature of the beast. Only thing I've heard helps is running meth since it sprays through the charge pipe. But if you wanna ring your motor out at 4500 rpm for 20-25 mins....4-5 times, well have fun with that.

[edisapimp]

lol.

[AnShk]

I believe that you can build carbon even after 10kmiles if you use low grade fuel and short drives.

I will let you know about results on 20 min 4500rpms, but I do know that in diesel cars after 60mph you clean catalytic converters from buildups.

[KA SHING]

I am having the same problem i think, my 2008 135i with 73000miles (cobb stage 2) started to miss fire at 69000miles. First if i push the car at around 2500RPM the car will shake, engine check light will comes on and engine still shaking. Than i stop and turn off the car and start again, the engine will not shake. But problems come back again if i push the car hard. After this problem check the computer showing 3 cylinder was missing fire, and i changed 3 spark plug that was bad. After a few run, the other 3 spark plug runs bad, so i change all the spark plugs.

After changing all the spark plugs, problems solve. But after 3000 miles the car start to miss fire again, but this time the engine didn't shake when i push it. It only shake when its running in a low speed or stop. You can feel the car shake 3-4 times/mins(like catch a cold). So next thing is to change is the ignition coil, i change 3 and the problem solve. But after, the engine still shake 1-3 times/min, so i change all the coil.

After changing all the spark plug and coil, the car still shake 1-3time/min. So i think i am having the same problem with you!!!

[KA SHING]

This will help?

[AnShk]

If you did not put any engine cleaning, I would do it first.
I put Techron Concentrate and it did help a bit. At least after half of the tank I had no more yellow light engine check errors appearing. If you use Texaco or Chevron gas, Techron will not help, as far as I learned, because these gas has Techron added already.

I also put BG44b which supposed to be even stronger. Now I am with a second can of BG.

I would not say high RPMs gave definitive results after first test. The engine temperature hits 250F after 10mins at 4300RPMs. But I will do it couple of times more since I have 100K and I expect engine to be very dirty.

Todays morning I had very slight misses after first minute of cold start which does not give any fault. Pretty much as it was before high RPMs test. After the test I had a feeling of better power response at low RPMs. But I wonder what to invest in to measure this things at least I have real numbers to show.

[A_Squared]

To know if this 4500rpm thing really makes a difference, this is essentially what you would have to do in terms of whether it "helps" reduce carbon build up or not. You would have to pull the intake manifold and inspect the intake valves, take pictures for comparison later. Put everything back together and go out for your runs. Then you will come back, take off the manifold again and compare from your initial photos. My money is on the fact that you will still need a walnut blasting. But then again if you already have the manifold off you might as well do it anyways.

[Indo Rider]

If you think just running the engine at 4500+ RPMs for any length of time will clean the carbon build up then you obviously have never pulled the intake to see first hand what you are dealing with. Not even a chance ... please stop posting things like that, it just perpetuates misinformation.

[Adam135]

Originally Posted by KA SHING

I am having the same problem i think, my 2008 135i with 73000miles (cobb stage 2) started to miss fire at 69000miles. First if i push the car at around 2500RPM the car will shake, engine check light will comes on and engine still shaking. Than i stop and turn off the car and start again, the engine will not shake. But problems come back again if i push the car hard. After this problem check the computer showing 3 cylinder was missing fire, and i changed 3 spark plug that was bad. After a few run, the other 3 spark plug runs bad, so i change all the spark plugs.

After changing all the spark plugs, problems solve. But after 3000 miles the car start to miss fire again, but this time the engine didn't shake when i push it. It only shake when its running in a low speed or stop. You can feel the car shake 3-4 times/mins(like catch a cold). So next thing is to change is the ignition coil, i change 3 and the problem solve. But after, the engine still shake 1-3 times/min, so i change all the coil.

After changing all the spark plug and coil, the car still shake 1-3time/min. So i think i am having the same problem with you!!!

I went through the exact same headache. Without a doubt (IMO) you have multiple bad injectors. BMW covers injectors under the extended Emissions Warranty, so you might still be covered. If not, you'll need to replace at least bank 1 (cylinders 1-3). However, there have been improvements to the injector design so if you're running all original injectors I would highly recommend you do all 6. You'll also want to check the spark plugs again. A faulty injector can foul a good spark plug in a very short amount of time. Injectors are about $140 each (+$7 for decoupling element) and your car should be be coded for them.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651538

[KA SHING]

Originally Posted by Adam135

I went through the exact same headache. Without a doubt (IMO) you have multiple bad injectors. BMW covers injectors under the extended Emissions Warranty, so you might still be covered. If not, you'll need to replace at least bank 1 (cylinders 1-3). However, there have been improvements to the injector design so if you're running all original injectors I would highly recommend you do all 6. You'll also want to check the spark plugs again. A faulty injector can foul a good spark plug in a very short amount of time. Injectors are about $140 each (+$7 for decoupling element) and your car should be be coded for them.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651538

Thank you! Now for sure are the bad injectors, but i don't have any error code and engine check light right now. I don't think the dealer will take care of it

They just change my turbo and HPFP. And now there is oil leak from the turbo intake. Dealer never fix a thing, they just trying to mess you up and get your money

[Adam135]

Originally Posted by KA SHING

Thank you! Now for sure are the bad injectors, but i don't have any error code and engine check light right now. I don't think the dealer will take care of it

Yep that is the issue I had. Car wasn't running well for months but it never threw a code so dealership "couldn't" do anything. It wasn't until one of the injectors completely died that they swapped things out.

[KA SHING]

Originally Posted by Adam135

Yep that is the issue I had. Car wasn't running well for months but it never threw a code so dealership "couldn't" do anything. It wasn't until one of the injectors completely died that they swapped things out.

Mayb i should push it hard and let engine check light on

For sure they cover the injector? And how many miles on your car? Any mod?

[Adam135]

Originally Posted by KA SHING

Mayb i should push it hard and let engine check light on

For sure they cover the injector? And how many miles on your car? Any mod?

Emissions warranty is 8 years / 80k and it covers injectors. It will also cover any spark plugs damaged by failing injectors. It does not cover coils. Only mod I had when taking it to the dealer was a charge pipe, which they didn't care about.

[Adam135]

Originally Posted by KA SHING

Mayb i should push it hard and let engine check light on

For sure they cover the injector? And how many miles on your car? Any mod?

Do you qualify for the injector recall?

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=469056&page=4