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      09-01-2015, 07:50 PM   #1
BMW135pls
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High power N54 owners: What is the safest way to go from WOT to coasting?

I want to know the safest way to go from WOT pull to coasting/decel on the N54 at high power levels. My build has progressed with time, and as power went up and up, I've noticed more and more trailing throttle issues when coming off the throttle after a pull. Which makes sense, more boost = more power = more weight transfer to the back. Suddenly lift off and the loaded up rear axle unloads causing a pendulum effect to the front axle which creates trailing throttle traction loss condition. I've gotten used to lifting off the throttle very slowly over the course of a few seconds, but there is still some tail whip especially on upshift. The most dangerous portion of a pull for me is the decel.

My question is, is there a technique that will make coming off of a pull safer? Will this problem be solved when I install my suspension upgrades? (listed in sig) Will aftermarket BOVs have anything to do with making liftoff safer?
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      09-02-2015, 05:36 PM   #2
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I really can't speak for your particular setup, but I'm sure it will be an improvement over the stock suspension. I remember feeling like I was on a rocking horse with the stock suspension. When I installed my TCK DAs, by far the most noticeable improvement was the elimination of excessive pitching back and forth. I'm sure you'll be stoked
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      09-06-2015, 07:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
I really can't speak for your particular setup, but I'm sure it will be an improvement over the stock suspension. I remember feeling like I was on a rocking horse with the stock suspension. When I installed my TCK DAs, by far the most noticeable improvement was the elimination of excessive pitching back and forth. I'm sure you'll be stoked
You need to get a full M3 suspension upgrade and a good LSD.
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      09-06-2015, 01:39 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bippie999 View Post
You need to get a full M3 suspension upgrade and a good LSD.
Did all that as well. Surprisingly, one of the best suspension mods I did was the BR Racing harness bar. It virtually eliminates any chassis flex in the rear and makes controlling a drift child's play. But I wouldn't recommend it for those without a LSD.
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      09-06-2015, 03:11 PM   #5
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It sounds more like weak OE rear subframe bushings and a shitty rear alignment.

If you haven't upgraded the rear subframe bushings you need too ASAP.

And have your rear alignment checked as well. Odd behavior on Decel sounds like excessive toe out.
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      09-06-2015, 03:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexResistance View Post
It sounds more like weak OE rear subframe bushings and a shitty rear alignment.

If you haven't upgraded the rear subframe bushings you need too ASAP.

And have your rear alignment checked as well. Odd behavior on Decel sounds like excessive toe out.
I have the M3 bushings installed, but haven't had my alignment checked recently. I'm going to install the suspension parts listed in my signature soon, and after that, obviously, an alignment.

What do you think of these alignment specs for a summer build on PSS pushing high power? Latest build is around 18.5-19psi.

Caster: as much positive as possible while still being symmetrical
Camber: Front -2.2, Rear -1.8
Toe: Front +.1, Rear +1.5

I think those were the toe settings I was going to go with, now that I'm looking at them, I can't tell if they look wrong or not.

Also, I think I have a decent grasp on summer alignment, but what about winter on snow tires? I know they suggest less camber for winter due to lower grip tires and conditions, but would lower than stock camber in the rear really be a good idea?

How about:
Caster: Same as summer
Camber: Front -1.2, Rear -.9 or -1.0
Toe: same as summer

Or maybe an actually symmetrical camber setup of -1.0 every tire, since all 4 snow tires are 215s.
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Mods: AA DPs + Gen I - BMS JB4 (Race + Map 2) + DCI + OCC - Cobb CP - ///M RSFB + Front Control Arms - Koni Yellow - Swift Spec R - Vorshlag camber plates - MPSS 225/255 - x-ph Angel Eyes 160w

Last edited by BMW135pls; 09-06-2015 at 04:22 PM..
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      09-15-2015, 04:55 PM   #7
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For the front and rear toe, with negative camber settings, should you have Toe in, or Toe out? Negative or positive?
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      09-16-2015, 05:15 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bippie999 View Post
For the front and rear toe, with negative camber settings, should you have Toe in, or Toe out? Negative or positive?
Front to should be set to 0 or slight toe out, Rear should have toe in.

Mine is set to 0 toe front and .12 toe in rear.
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      09-16-2015, 06:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexResistance View Post
Front to should be set to 0 or slight toe out, Rear should have toe in.

Mine is set to 0 toe front and .12 toe in rear.
Thanks, that helps.
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